eric nielsen
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Posts posted by eric nielsen
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VZ grips are great; they cover the top-rear corner of the gripping area which means your trigger finger will land a little farther out. With big hands that will be okay for DA, and better than uncovered for SA shooting.
All the CZ aluminum grips do not cover the top-rear. This will allow easier DA pull for anyone who has trouble reaching that far, will feel a little more cramped shooting SA for people w/big hands.
From the photos and dimensions given it looks like their Thick AL Aggressive grips are thicker or same in back, thinner in front, compared to VZ: http://czcustom.com/cz-75-85-ts-grips-aluminum-plastic-rubber.aspx
I have the VZ tactical diamonds and the CZC thin aluminum, several sets of rubber grips, and several broken sets of cheap wood or VZ imitation plastic grips. Because of how the grip fits on the CZ frame, you want indestructible material for your CZ grips. VZ and CZC aluminum as well as most rubber grips will not break. If you must have wood or plastic grips, get from a very reputable company or expect them to shatter within a short span of typical USPSA practice and matches. HTH
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Several well-known gunsmiths are also really interested in looks not functionality. If you try hard enough you can purchase exactly that.
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Shot almost the exact same load as post #11 thru a borrowed 5.25, also shot up a few hundred Zero 121gr JHP's. Both loads easily went into 1.5" at 25 yards. Amazing gun, no need for aftermarket barrel at all.
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Search.
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Jeremy is that a plated finish or painted? Either way it looks good.
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Our local 1911 smith let us borrow his chamber reamers when we dropped by to visit. Every single pistol barrel I ever brought had at least one noticeable burr either pop right off or scrape noisily for 1-2 full revolutions of the reamer. Takes about 1 minute. After shipping both ways I would've been happier if my chamber was reamed wide enough for pickup brass and freebore sufficient for OAL 1.220 or more. My Cheely 40 does both with no problems, it's an SV barrel. I'm loading out of a huge box of brass I shot through a stock G35 barrel, zero malfunctions, no fancy sizing dies.
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Search old threads for SPS. Seems the bottom of the grip is not the same as STI so magwell choices are few? Several ppl used the SPS mags for a while in a quest for 1 more round in the mag, mixed results. Etc.
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Springfield slide died about 2 stages into a very fun match over 100 miles from my house. Much sadness.
With many 1000's of Super cases and only one SV open mag I decided to stay w/Super, no 9Major for now. Local gunsmith many years experience did this up perfect, one of his last he's retired now. Caspian slide, Cheely racker, few hundred bucks total, same slide weight I like it better now than before.
PS - w/very old Nowlin barrel/comp & new slide, it shoots under 1" at 25 yards w/124 MG CMJ and 3n38.
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Little under 5.75. Done by Stuart. Lights off CCI, Wolf, pretty much any primer. But it is a Shadow.
Don't think I'd notice much if it was lighter, it's the long, un-staged pull that takes getting used to vs. 1911 or XDm or Glock.
Most who tried mine said "Holy S###", or "Holy F@@@", or similar.
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see post 18.
I have the original E-A-R soft plugs in whenever I'm in the same zip code as gunfire. Muffs sit on my 4th magazine or on top of my bag most of the match, except when I shoot (any division) or when an Open shooter is up. Including 5"-54 Navy deck guns, I've been doing this over 25 years and getting my hearing tested quite a few times. I can say for sure that almost all of my hearing loss came from playing in rock bands without plugs or muffs.
Once you get used to it, it's a simple move once the shooting is over to just one-handed pull your muffs off the backside of your head and plant them on your spare mags; won't knock your hat off, no hot/sweaty problem. The guys who use only muffs and get caught out with nothing as a hybrid-port Supercomp goes off, I don't know how you do that, seems crazy to me.
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Need to photograph the underside of the triggerguard. It will say Tripp Research Int'l or Strayer-Tripp Int'l or STI or similar.
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It's automotive window shade. Goes on with soapy water (use dishwashing soap or the manufacturer's spray) and comes off with running water. Trim to size/shape you want, get 2 pieces of clear tape to separate the film from it's clear backer, add soapy water, place on lens, wait a few minutes & you're good to go. I tried the 35% transmission but it let my left eye (which is now my clearer, but non-dominant eye) see too much, led to match mistakes, went back to the 20%. Helps you place your sights on the correct spot on a target that just appeared and is just about to disappear, as you move & shoot quickly thru a stage with a lot of props.
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Or an old dog that sits in your nightstand with a mag full of Winchester Black Talons year after year.
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http://www.gilafilms.com/en/Basic-Window-Tints.aspx#.UhfrWNJjuSo
20% Visible light transmission. Available at Auto Zone or Walmart. About ten bucks.
This gives a decent idea of where your aiming point is while shooting on the move.
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The most common grip (I believe) still today is completely neutral all around the gun -
I think with the Open gun, Dave Dawson's thumb rest design is genius and it works very well with the almost-straight-back recoil impulse of a good competitive Open gun. I think with a Limited gun the recoil impulse is much more like someone shoving on the gun from 30 degrees below the muzzle and the Open-type rests that are fairly low - Dawson, Arredondo - are good, the more angled rests - GoGuns, DAA - are less well suited and seem to magnify the Limited recoil. Muzzle rise is low, but the entire gun wants to jump up above your line of sight more than using no thumb rest at all. Not everyone notices this, but quite a few people have seen the same effect and agree w/me on this. I'm finding the very low and flat rest is as good or probably better than no thumb rest at all. Another consideration is the unfortunate sharp corner that Strayer & Tripp put in the 2011 frame design - that will raise a distinct callous on your left thumb if you use Vogel's rolling grip.
For a totally different view on support-hand grip - this goes against the locked down hand position I've used since taking Ron Avery's class 20 years ago - you can see the GoGuns designer speak about it. I'm not an orthopedist but I've been locking my left wrist for a very long time and so, like 99% of good action shooters, that tendon/muscle group is very strong and so I don't agree, especially the chest muscle part, that is not the original Leatham/Enos technique, but here is his point of view...
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Heels into bottom corner, Continued:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_h9rKDEXPvM
Some people do that with muscle force from the chest -
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Cheely. With either Jared's perfect-open-gun-optic or (heavier) the Trijicon SRS.
Add "wait time" to "price is not a factor". At least my DIY thumb rest will be cheap.
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[edited to make links work]
No box to fit into for USPSA Limited. Rackers were always legal in Limited, thumb rests and do-anything-you-want barrel/sight combinations just became legal w/new rules Jan 1st, 2013. The shorter you make your racker the more it helps to have your right thumb curled down near the mag release as you rack the gun, to avoid trying to rip your thumb off w/the weak hand. Between this gun w/the racker mounted forward and my Open gun w/racker mounted at the rear of the slide, I like the Limited position better - quicker to get on it after seating a mag, quicker to acquire 2-handed grip and start shooting.
Grip technique (pressures, positions, what it "feels" like) is best explained by having a good shooter show you in person. But start here: http://www.handgunsmag.com/2010/09/24/tactics_training_combatg_100306/ and read Brian's book: http://www.brianenos.com/
W/out taking his class my best take on Bob Vogel's technique is that you: 1. use Captains of Crush grippers to increase your max strength (48-72 hrs of rest between workouts) 2. squeeze to a pretty high percentage of your max strength when shooting 3. twist your hands into each other somewhat, at the top - your right hand twists CCW and left hand twists CW putting a push into the top of your grips and a pull into the bottom of your grips. The stronger your hands are, the more you can do this without breaking contact with the bottom of your grips. I find this works well for guns that are all flat on top (polymer frame Production guns) and less well for guns that are all round with screws and levers and such on top (1911 and 2011). It helps calm down the jumpy torquing bouncing recoil pulse of a lightweight polymer gun. The high elbow position, again not taking their classes, on Vogel and Sevigny, seems to be more a side-effect, not a cause, of the twist in the hands.
Another grip that works and can seem to "pop" your gun back down out of recoil almost like a machine, is to focus on butting the heels of your hands together at the bottom/rear corner of the gun. Some people do this with back-tension -
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PS - pretty sure I should have said drive the CZ Custom Shop pin out using center punch hits on the RIGHT side of the gun, pin will start working its way out of the left side until you can move it with a pin punch and then grab it with a pair of locking pliers once it's more than 1/2 way out. Look and see which end of the pin looks fatter, that is the end you don't want to hit with a punch, it will never budge. Pretty sure that's what Stuart showed me.
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I was finding it harder to control the Limited gun with a thumb rest until I gave this one a thorough shake-down, this one makes the gun better, at least for me. I'm seeing the sight-tracker effect all the time now in live fire; in dry-fire all the gun-handling drills and shooting-on-the-move practice is also noticeably better, I see the sights in alignment (all the time) without needing to put them there.
I'm not using the Vogel-type twisting grip with this rest (although it works okay, the mount is low enough to use that grip), I'm primarily focused on gripping as tight as possible with both pinky fingers. Quick way to have everything fall in place is to shoot a string strong-hand-only, looking for minimum muzzle flip (gorilla grip in the pinky finger) and then fire a string with both hands. Very easy to follow the bouncing front sight.
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Shot this new set-up at the indoor range tonight. Just opinion but I probably own the sweetest USPSA Limited gun on earth, very happy with this thumb rest, it stays on the gun for sure.
Tried friend's gun w/the GoGuns _as _edal while waiting my Ltd gun, didn't like it, way too high and far back, for my hands it made a locked wrist impossible. Bought the DAA Adjustable, Matt installed it, shot it, didn't like it. Took a good look & saw that it was too far forward regardless of which position is chosen. It bent my left hand position off to the left & bent my right hand to be in a straight line w/my right forarm which I dislike, a lot.
Took a look at my Open gun's Dawson rest which seems to work well and was positioned by me using glue, tape, etc for weeks before finally marking the screw hole locations & having a co-worker drill & tap my scope mount.
Messed around w/both parts and some double-side tape and tried this - better. Could always buy another Dawson rest and drill/tap the DAA mount to hold it higher and further back.
Dug thru my junk drawer and found the ledge I had on my Tanfo open gun about 1997 or so. Screw holes fit perfect so taped the side to prevent scratching the Ltd gun and put it on. Way too far forward.
Tried using front hole in rear frame hole. Okay, this works out nice in dry fire. Took my no-rest hand position and was able to move only the thumb up & on this thing, nothing else changed, very very solid grip.
Visualized how a piece of 90-degree aluminum could make the part I want. Found the aluminum at Home Depot.
Needed a new hacksaw anyway, this one is the four-star version:
Other tools. 2-wheel grinder was handy but not necessary.
Rough part.
Another view, taped to not scratch frame.
On the gun. Makes for a very low ledge.
Support hand shooting position, wrist is completely locked.
Left-hand only grip - trigger finger needs a little practice getting In & out of position, no big deal.
Another view of weak-hand-only. Planning to polish the bottom of the ledge until it is glass smooth.
Position in holster - needed to reduce from original 3/4" aluminum part width to clear the CR Speed hanger.
Nice feature of this design is if you make your own you can chop, grind, and file the ledge to fit your hand position exactly with no compromises. HTH
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The Fellraiser looks promising. Strongly prefer little/no heel drop for all my shoes not just shooting matches, your preference may be different, all depends on your walking & running motion. If you can get away with 1/4" tread the Adidas Thrasher 2 is great but no-go for deep mud.
Using these now, my opinion the ultimate for shooting on the move - same 1/2" cleat depth as Nike Land Sharks but with as soft/round a "give" in the heel as any pair of shoes - cleated or otherwise - I've ever put on, cheap but have to wait for them to ship from Europe -
http://www.amazon.com/More-Mile-Cheviot-Black-Running/dp/B00CBUKSJU
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Shot with Merle many times way back when. Yes he got stopped by RO's a lot & would then hold up his finger & go load up his mags again. He carried 2-3 times the minimum round count of ammo to each match. I'm sure all the re-shoots helped his mental toughness because he went from occasional Nationals stage winner in the late 80's to USPSA Open Champion in 1994. Had no problems shooting either a Para or an STI as long as the trigger was flat and very short, like barely popping out from the frame slot.
Limited Thumb Rest / Gas Pedals
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted · Edited by eric nielsen
The Akai part might work, seems like a good hand position, would like to see one in person. Still seems like it might magnify the gun-jump effect in Limited, same as others have commented on. By comparison - http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180094
Years ago there was a thumb-shelf slide stop (for Open), every once in a while someone would snap one in half. For me the older design was way too far back, but people w/midget hands liked them.