eric nielsen
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Posts posted by eric nielsen
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The Glockstore trigger is not that great - you can have mine since I don't own any Glocks now.
For your question who makes something to reset the whole slide:
http://www.setcan.com/dvorak.php (it's not cheap)
http://www.setcan.com/pdfs/dvorak_tethered.pdf
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Hold gun in strong hand, be sure grip safety is engaged. Squeeze trigger a few times w/hammer down.
Use left thumb to hold hammer all the way back as far as it will go. Squeeze trigger a few times back & forward again, slowly.
Those 2 things should feel different. If not, your trigger job is unlike all the 1911- pattern guns I've owned. My Cheely Ltd gun does have a sort of 2-stage feel with the hammer down (which is nice) but it's not the same reset point as live fire or with the hammer held back. The pull weight isn't the same either.
If your grip safety keeps going back on safe you probably won't get any benefit from a tape wrap or a ball of tape jammed in there.
This doesn't work on CZ or Tanfoglio or (as far as I know) any gun that lacks the 1911-type 3-leaf trigger/sear/grip-safety spring.
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Did this one myself. Frame is quick to change, grip safety took several hours.
People either oooh & aaah when they try it, or just shrug. Depends on your thumb.
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That's a good idea.
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It's the same. 1911 or 2011 or Caspian HiCap or Para or Springfield hicap etc
If you notice anything funky in manipulating the thumb safety, that's your cue to untape and retape because the hammer is not back enough.
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One thing this tape trick allows is 10x or 100x more reps in the same time at resetting between targets and settling the dots/sights into the next target with a prepped trigger. Also sometimes I set up easy target (slap, aka accelerated pull) and transition over to hard target (reset & prep then squeeze). If any of that is unclear here's a good video:
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http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=83618
http://www.parmarng.org/freeidaho/AlSkDjFhG/index.html
http://mgmtargets.com/tactical-targets/mgm-swinger?cPath=6&
http://www.predatortactical.com/cart.php?m=knowledgebase_detail&id=5
http://www.predatortactical.com/uploads/media/Flashfiles/swinger_varible_rate_070704.swf
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Yes the 35 yard shots were an advertisement for adjustable sights, you have to be dead on POA/POI in this game. Even our local matches have 20-yard mini-poppers most every time. You save a ton of time hitting them the first time.
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Not sure how far the hammer has to be back to lift the hammer hooks off the sear - all my grip safeties are pinned. If a de-activated, unpinned grip safety still allows this 2-stage take-up, then just go with that I guess. Like they say if you can just squeeze harder on a working grip safety, that's good too
I use about 3" of extremely cheap masking tape (1 wrap) and it holds the hammer for days at a time. If you have a low-friction hammer/sear engagement (a good trigger job) then the pull weight of the simulated 2-stage pull is about the same as your real trigger release.
Still, nothing beats live-fire for learning to reset and prep for tight shots. The FL state match had a stage where you do a bunch of crazy stuff and then run a few steps over to the left and engage 1 metric paper and 4 little round plates at 35 yards. I went 2 A's and 4 plates in 7 shots - the extra was one where I prepped a little too much & the gun surprised me.
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Most multi-shot drills in dryfire, the gun looks like this. Advantages: easy, allows mag changes. Disadvantage: pulling against only the return leaf is not realistic and doesn't built triggering skill like live fire does.
I often dry-fired with the slide locked back on an Open or this Ltd gun, esp. one-handed. Advantages: pretty realistic 2-stage pull that starts with the return leaf then adds the sear leaf with full return/reset length. Disadvantages: draws from holster are iffy; mag changes could break your ejector, works your recoil spring a little, doesn't work on other platforms.
Now I do this. Advantages: realistic pull/reset, allows safety manipulation, draws, mag changes; quiet (happy wife / happy life). Disadvantage: costs about 0.05 cents, if your grip safety isn't pinned, you also need another wrap of tape on that too.
If you like it, give it a cool name like "the Nielsen trick". Only took me about 15 years to think of it... HTH
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I should be able to make it based on my normal work rotation, just need to confirm.
"You Are Doing It Wrong" from Ben's newest book hit me pretty much on the bridge of the nose.
If anyone from Volusia is going to the state match this weekend please say Hi, i'm on Squad 18 and i'm new to the east coast of Florida.
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CZs to me at the top end have a double action trigger pull of a finely tuned revolver, and a single action comparable to top dollar 1911s. Kind of like the best of both worlds.
With regards to production division, it's basically like having a very low recoil single action gun.
THIS.
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For what it's worth I've taken the thumb rests off both my Open and Limited guns. Two reasons - higher thumb position risks knocking the thumb safety up w/the left palm, and overall the grip is just not as firm compared to thumb down below the frame & next to the trigger guard. There's a corner on the STI's that raises a big callus on the last joint of the thumb but it's worth it, I shoot them and the CZ's all the same way.
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His work is worth every penny; love my Limited gun & most likely will never sell it. Call me a snob but I chose Matt for the combination of mechanical engineering education plus grandmaster skills. I changed my mind on a couple of prototype ideas and he made changes about as quick as it takes to ship in both directions.
He's got my Open gun now to re-blue the top end, his bluing is fantastic. Not to knock any other gunsmiths but if there's one better than Matt anywhere, they're not very dang much better, no way, he's got this stuff figured out.
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I may be wrong but seem like the longer stroke with same guide rod, same type recoil spring would increase the chance of going to full compression. You can check that by putting the top end on w/out the spring, mark the rearmost travel of the slide-stop notch, then repeat with spring installed. Should go to the same place. If in doubt go with a gunsmith who's done a lot of these.
Full compression can beat on your spring cap to the point where it fails. That knocked the defending uspsa champion out of the running in 1992, his cap and spring went flying down range on a 12-round timed-fire Standards stage, think he got off 1 or 2 rounds.
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This thread has brilliance mixed with ignorance, and honest posts mixed with trolling, to extremes I can't remember ever seeing on this forum. If you can pick the wheat from the chaff there's a lot to be gained; if you can't tell which is which you might want to walk away for now and then come back some later date when you've discovered more things with your shooting. 2 cents.
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If you need to tighten down that far you might try the Caspian HiCap trick of shimming your CR Speed pouch with the very high-tech Home Depot paint department stir-sticks, they're free for the asking. Remove spacer, insert shim, use Sharpie to mark where to cut to size and where to drill hole for the pouch screw, takes less time to do it than to type it. If your wife likes Home Depot just look around you may have a bunch already in your garage.
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I meant a Colt SAA.
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I would lean toward the quick-release idea more than the ride-the-reset theory. I don't think either TGO or Smitty is known for Glock shooting but both had this problem; it's their crazy-short splits - they can release the trigger forward before the slide closes. Hand their gun to someone else and the problem vanishes. TGO is one of the original trigger slappers, he's been shooting that way since before my oldest VHS tape of the Nationals.
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I've seen (repeatedly) the well-known M&P problems of doubling (aftermarket sears) and failure-to-extract. The FTE's take so long to fix you might as well have shot the match with a revolver instead. Had several shooters tell me their M&P can't group half as well as their Glock or other platform gun. Maybe they're the same ones using light recoil springs and risking an FTE?
Locally a lot of guys have moved on from M&P to something else. For less than $2000 my vote is also for the CZ Tac Sport - the factory triggers are great, none of the above 3 problems are likely, and the heavier weight will benefit most people shooting Limited Major. With the CZ Custom magwell it's a very pretty gun & will never be mistaken for a water pistol.
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Great thread. I've owned quite a few Open guns and speaking with gunsmiths and esp. with some SVI test-pilot shooters, seemed like the consensus was take about 2x as much from the rear as from the front of the slide. With a dot and a few different recoil springs it is quickly apparent when a change is helping or when it's making things worse.
Some amount of weight (front or back) out of a 1911 or G20 or G21 slide will usually seem to help, those were designed for 190 power factor. Some other platforms that are chopped and then pic-posted on here were probably light enough already. I had an Open Glock that I wanted to add weight to the slide; when I hung lead plumber's tape on it (Mad Scientist's idea) at the practice range, it seemed to shoot better. 2cents.
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Thanks for the thread, I am thinking of getting one of these for my wife. What are the options to replace the rear sight with adjustables?
Also can anyone recommend a full-size pistol in 380 caliber? Heard of the Bersa and the Walther PK380 but no 1st-hand knowledge. I don't think she'll be able to effectively shoot a DAO trigger or tiny sights. She is capable of racking the slide on my CZ Shadow which was a surprise.
PS - when I had a 22 conversion for Glock, the best use of it was strong-hand and weak hand shooting; once I got really good at that's about all I wanted to do with that gun.
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Seeing is an analog process. It is conveyed by an electro-chemical process that is not quite up at the speed of light but for all purposes could be regarded as travelling that fast. How your mind interprets and then creates thoughts or emotions or reactive movements based on what you see is extremely variable but there is no inherent minimum reaction time needed to "see" anything. If you intention or survival response is strong enough you can see everything; the only limit is the focal quality of your peripheral vision (which is most of your vision).
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I read Gerard's posts on OAL and use the same, also no problems at all. I use Precision Delta 124 JHP's with N320 powder.
At the practice range I can fill a 19-round CZ magazine and blast it all into one target at 15 yards nonstop. I can't do this with any 40-cal ammo that makes Major in my STI.
Tried other bullets with the 9mm Shadow all at around 138 power factor, see no significant difference in controllability, minor differences in the accuracy, major differences in the amount of smoke, so 124 JHP's for me.
resetting 2011 dry-fire trigger
in Training Techniques
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Far as I know it's mostly police departments that buy that thing - $2K and w/ the compressed air set it looks like the back of a scuba shop.
Some years ago there was a female shooter (from Canada?) who won the World Shoot or USPSA nationals Ladies title; she trained with one of those adapted to a widebody 1911 open gun. I figure with some people spending $35K a year pushing to win the Nationals, it might be a justifiable investment. Or a fun toy for people w/more money than skill...