Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

sbcman

Classified
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    171

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by sbcman

    Best lube for trigger group

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    If I remember correctly Randy Lee from Apex put some kind of grease on the DA Sear, and I think on the Rebound Slide. Don't know what it was but I took it off and have settled on Rem Oil.

    Usually a couple of practice sessions before a big match I'll pull the grips and put a couple of drops on the Rebound Slide thru the back and then a few drops thru the top to the Sear.

    Randy Lee? Grease? Looks like I'm in decent company :roflol:

    I am thinking about trying the synthetic oil stuff. My grease works great in warm weather but hardens a bit in cold weather. Good thread.

    Trigger job problem

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    OT, but, I'm in Evansville and now that I've got a new job with weekends off, you can count on one more revolver shooter at the local matches. I've been to Owensboro and WVPPS before, but didn't know there was a match in Jasper. When and where?

    A USPSA type (not actual club) is held at the Jasper Rifle Range the 2nd Saturdays from March to October. It's a little different in that it's all shot on one bay and after each course of fire we tear down that stage and put up a new one. I think it was 4 courses of fire overall.

    I've done just a few guns so I'm still a newbie. But I've done both MIM guns and forged. From those that I've seen the MIM parts just don't need a lot done to them. 2 or 3 light passes with the stone is about it and some don't really need that. Mostly they just need polished from what I've seen. I've done some research on the tolerance capability of MIM parts and in the envelope size of the hammer and trigger, very, very close tolerances can be held in the process. I'm talking tolerances that would very easily allow drop in replacement even on the SA sear engagement. Now that's not to say you can just drop a new trigger or hammer in because I have no idea if S&W holds their vendors to this tight of spec, but it's possible. It's pretty interesting to a 20+ year "retired" (read..changed careers) machinist, CNC programmer, mfg. engineer from aerospace to see a process capability like this. The MIM guns that I've done have been very easy to smooth up. It sounds to me like the chrome flaking off is pretty common. My 1st 625JM had it happen on the trigger face where it impacted the FP. Hard to say if someone jacked it up or not, but it's possible. I still tend to prefer the forged parts, but done properly, MIM should give you no worries, I'm just old school I guess.

    Thanks for this post. I might have gotten too aggressive with my MIM stuff. As noted, I've seen amazing MIM jobs but just couldn't do it myself. Always learning.

    Trigger job problem

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    The MIM stuff just doesn't polish up as well as the forged stuff, and I don't think the trigger is hardened, but could be wrong.

    sbcman, I'm afraid I'm going to come across as being really critical of your posts, but right now you're 0 for 3! :o

    The MIM stuff slicks up wonderfully. Check out a good competition action job on a gun with MIM guts and you'll see exactly what I mean. I have lots of revolvers, and the guns I shoot in USPSA Revolver Division are both 625-6s.

    Nothing like a good MIM job! ;)

    Haha- oh don't be afraid, I usually get more criticism than that by 9:00am :roflol:

    I too have a 625 with a MIM parts that came out of the Sand Burr guys shop. It is simply superb, but I have no idea how they got it that way. I tried slicking up a 686-6 once and a 66 no dash. The 66 took well, really well for me but the 686 did not. I guess I should have said "I can't get the MIM stuff slicked up as well." Bosshoss is more atuned to that kind of work, so it will probably be just fine for him as well.

    And just to round-up the rest of my stikes-

    Why is lithium grease a bad choice? Looking to learn here and willing to change, just interested in why.

    Titanium pins- one broke on before mentioned 625 and the answer was "dry firing without snap caps." Don't know what else to say about it.

    which 617

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    I once had to make the 6 or 10 decision as well and ended up going with the 10. I use my 617 as a trainer because I run a 686 and 625 in comps, and 22 is a whole lot cheaper to send downrange even though I cast and reload. I chose a 4" because that's what my others are as well. Basically I use it in two ways- accuracy/speed training (no drawing, etc) and then drawing and going through little homemade courses. If I'm practicing speed/accuracy, I load ten and shoot ten. If practicing in a mock course, I load ten but only shoot 6.

    All that said to say this- the extra rounds won't confuse you but rather help you keep a mental check on round count, another practice that is really good to master.

    I leave the black partridge on mine and run a gree FO on my 686 and a red FO on my 625. Keeps my brain busy when shooting.

    So, 4" 10rd is my suggestion ;)

    Trigger job problem

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    Good to hear you'll be running a 625 in USPSA! Maybe with you, me and the two other wheelgunners in Owensboro we could make half a squad :lol:

    I agree- there's OK MIM and then there's great MIM, and S&W makes great MIM. If I come across a trigger I'll shoot a PM your way. Looking forward to shooting with you this year.

    Trigger job problem

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    Yes! Even though we won't be in the same class it will be good to see other revolvers at Jasper and Owensboro.

    It would be ideal if you could just go all forged. Unfortunately S&W no longer makes forged parts (for sale) Numrich might have something though. The MIM stuff just doesn't polish up as well as the forged stuff, and I don't think the trigger is hardened, but could be wrong.

    A lot of guys have had similar problems with the 625JM and its chrome. So, someone probably didn't mess it up- it's probably just typical wear on the chrome parts they've been producing.

    I would think the MIM and forged parts could work together, but I don't think it will smooth out like all forged or all chrome.

    Looking forward to seeing it run!

    J Frame grip technique

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    Just a thought, and this might be a bit hard to explain so forgive me in advance, but maybe try this: take a dry fire as you are now and note the way your index finger bends. Now, keeping that same bend, back your finger out of the trigger to where it is in the center of the pad. You will basically be utilizing the pad of your finger but loosing none of the leverage advantage.

    Maybe combine this with a little weaker return spring.

    If this fails, some grips that run over the backstrap might help as well.

    Trying to shoot like you dont care.

    in Mental Conditioning

    Posted

    Last Friday night I picked up a revolver (625). An IDPA match was scheduled Saturday morning and I originally had no intentions of shooting my new gun in it. But before bed, I practiced a few reloads and had so much fun dry-firing I thought "I'm going to run this tomorrow!"

    The next morning I got a target up and loaded two moons for an accuracy check. All was well, so I packed up and headed to the match. The one thing I had on my mind was I had to slow my shots down, as I simply couldn't manage fast shooting in the same way I handle 38 special, which I normally ran. I was completely relaxed at the match. When I came to the line I noticed myself taking extra time to mentally check the COF one last time. I've only been shooting comps since August of 2011, but for the first time I think I realized what "being totally there" on each target meant.

    Long story short, I shot the cleanest and fastest match I've ever ran. It didn't necessarily seem fast to me. Took a class and division win, as well as tenth overall out of 60. No one was more surprised than me! I wouldn't say I shot like I didn't care, because I did care. I just cared a different and, in retrospect, more productive way.

    Plus, I didn't have to pick brass and speedloaders up all over the place- just a couple of joined clips :roflol:

    Extractor rod removal for 625

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    Just my opinion but there are several quality gunsmiths and shops that can do this for you around the price of the tools. I would have them do it, unless you expect to do this job several more times in the future on other revolvers.

    Might want to have them run a trigger job on it while they're at it ;)

    Hey sbcman welcome to brian's forum good to see other INGO members and southern Indiana shooters here.

    Thanks man! I don't post much over here as I'm usually too busy reading stuff. Hope to see you at some matches this year.

    Extractor rod removal for 625

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted · Edited by sbcman

    Just my opinion but there are several quality gunsmiths and shops that can do this for you around the price of the tools. I would have them do it, unless you expect to do this job several more times in the future on other revolvers.

    Might want to have them run a trigger job on it while they're at it ;)

    Owensboro 10-29-2011 3-gun (Multigun)

    in Multi-Gun, Rifle & Shotgun Match Announcements

    Posted

    Great match and true to the genious of Gary Welborn to have a 2gun/3gun setup! Thanks for your hard work guys.

    The man has an imagination like no other. I've shot a couple of USPSA matches down there and his courses are always great!

    gary had a blast at the match, and good shooting sbcman

    Thanks! I managed a 4th out 6 in open and 16th overall. I'm hooked! I'm cool with my Saigas for 3 gun; now the search starts for something a little more suited for multigun than a revolver in open class :lol:

×
×
  • Create New...