wksinatl

Thanks Roy! I plan to trim 1/2 coil at a time to bring it back into alignment. Keith

Ron, I think I could have done a better job explaining. In the picture there is NO spring in the gun. With the spring IN the gun I pulled the slide to the rear as far as it would go. My son put a piece of tape across both the slide and the frame. He then ran a razor between the frame and slide. This was my reference, the tape was perfectly lined up. I removed the spring and then pulled the slide to the rear as far as it goes (as in the picture). The slight offset of the tape is what I consider to be the stacking of the spring. I could have done a better job asking the question and also done it a little easier but.....I think....I got my answer. thanks for your input, Keith

After reading one of the other threads I wondered if any of my Glocks was doing this. On one of my G35's I am using a fitted Jarvis barrel, ISMI guide rod and 13# spring. You can see that the spring is stacking. My other G35 has the factory guide rod/spring and is OK. My G19 has the factory setup and is OK. My G21 has a 15# ISMI guide rod and 15# ISMI spring and is OK. I have done searches and read everything I could in this forum and have really had my eyes opened to spring technology. Is this is about what should be expected if it doesn't match up to the gun assembled without the recoil spring? thanks, Keith

How do you do this check?One way is with some masking tape. With the gun completly assembled except for the recoil spring plug move the slide completly to the rear. Now place a small strip of masking tape directly under the front of the slide on the side of the dust cover of the frame,now double check the slide is fully to the rear and mark a line on the tape where the front of the slide is. Now completly assemble the pistol with the recoil spring plug. Next pull the slide completly back and see if the slide lines up with the mark you made on the tape. If it does then the spring is not stacking. If the slide does not go all the way to the line then the spring is stacking preventing the slide from full range of travel, so to fix it cut 1\2 coil off at a time of the open end of the spring until it reaches your mark. Now if you use a recoil buffer be sure to have it in during this test because buffers also shorten the slide stroke. Hope this helps Good explanation Roy. I did what you said and realized that one of my 4 Glocks seems to be stacking. This is a G35, Jarvis barrel, 13# ISMI spring. I will trim it to match the tape where it should be and test. Thanks! Keith

I'm guessing minimal but if'n your not in a hurry I'm heading back to the range over the weekend and try a few things related to that and I'll report back next week. Are you saying the "REDUCTION" is minimal or the RECOIL is minimal? If you are saying the REDUCTION is minimal what would be the advantage of having it? I look forward to hearing about your range report. thanks, Keith

Thanks for the detailed info! Could you "estimate" the muzzle flip/recoil reduction by using the comp'ed barrel vs. the stock barrel. I know this is subjective...... thanks for your time, Keith

Wildkow, Please check your email. thanks, Keith

Guys, this is the info I was hoping for. I appreciate your replies. thanks, Keith

I'm loading for a G35. I am having problems finding small pistol primers. I am shooting a soft load for steel matches. I'm running a 13# IMSI spring. Cycles 100% of the time. My current load is 165gr Raniers, 3.6grs of WST, and CCI small pistol (standard) primers in mixed brass. I WANT TO BE SAFE REGARDLESS OF HOW WELL SOMETHING SHOOTS. Can I work up a load using magnum primers if I do a new workup not just substitute the new primer? Being this is a light load I THINK it can be done safely. Are there any downsides to this idea? I have some CCI magnum primers that I load in a .357 mag so consolidating primers appeals to me. I see where some shooters use small rifle primers as a substitute for small pistol primers. I THINK the cup may be thicker on a SR then SP so light primer strikes might be a problem. I load on a Dillon 550b. I would prefer to use small pistol as designed and call it done but am finding them hard to find. I've done the searches but haven't really gotten the info I'm looking for. I appreciate the input, Keith

thanks, guys Keith

Do you guys use the large charge bar or the smaller charge bar when loading for 223? I use the large bar (have loaded stick powder only) but was told that you have better accuracy with ball powder with the smaller bar. Thoughts? thanks, Keith

I'm starting load development for this rifle. I have 1k of the 140 MK's to use. I know the 142/s have a better BC but this is where I want to start. I have Varget, RE-15, and H4350 to use. I have an adjustable gas tube so I can/have shoot either of these powders and have it cycle/funxtion 100% of the time. I am really "hoping" to get H4350 to be my accuracy powder (lower psi and better dwell time). Loading will be on a Dillon 550. Rifle has a 24" Mike Rock/1-8" twist and wears a NightForce 5.5x-22x-56mm scope with NP-R2 reticle. I will use this rifle to compete in Tactical Matches at FT. Benning, Ga. in the Precision Semi-Auto Class. Max range will be from 500yds to 1k (depending on which range we shoot at). You iron sight guys AMAZE me with your shooting skills with irons. I'd like to hear some suggestions/opinions on load combos that works for you. thanks for your time, Keith

Mine has a 21" barrel. Can you tell me which one I need for the longest tube that will NOT go past the end of the muzzle. I would apprecaite your help! The below comes from Brownells web site. thanks, Keith SPECS: Extension - Steel, blued or parkerized, matte finish. 12 ga. only. Includes extended spring, follower and swivel clamp. Sling Swivel Clamp - Blued or parkerized steel, front and rear 1" swivel rings with studs. Chart indicates number of ROUNDS (RDS) in addition to factory magazine capacity for each model. 159-104-872 2 Rds fits Rem 870/1100/11-87* $41.55 Shotgun Parts 159-104-873 3 Rds fits Rem 870/1100/11-87* $41.55 Shotgun Parts 159-104-874 4 Rds fits Rem 870/1100/11-87* $44.55 Shotgun Parts 159-104-875 5 Rds fits Rem 870/1100/11-87* $47.60 Shotgun Parts 159-000-012 2 Rds fits Mossberg 835 (P) $41.55 Shotgun Parts 159-000-013 3 Rds fits Mossberg 835 (P) $41.55 Shotgun Parts Out of Stock 159-104-100 Parkerized Sling Swivel Clamp $8.80

You guys were right! I like the roller handle MUCH better . Thanks for the advice, Keith

I just talked to Brian alittle while ago. I went ahead and got the aluminum roller handle. I also got setup for a quick change for 223 and some slide guide. Thanks for the advice! Keith

Just got my new 550 set up. What a GREAT machine. I made a "shelf" (1/4" aluminum plate and machined aluminum bar for tool head stands) to hold the extra tool heads, indexing pins, etc. I have only loaded .45's on it. The other tool head is set up for 40's. I will probably order a complete tool head change out for 223 and 308. I might get the roller handle but not convinced it's really necessary. I think my little man was more excited than I was. Anyway, thanks to everyone who pointed me towards Brian Enos for the purchase!!!

Where are you guys getting brass so cheap??? Thanks, Keith