MikeRush
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Posts posted by MikeRush
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All day, everyday. Totally healthy. Ok maybe not totally healthy, but a lot easier on the wallet than thinking about cars that much.
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I had my adjustable rear break and they took care of me right away. Guess where I ordered my sights for my new limited gun?
+1 on great customer service with shooting companies, I am sold on Dawson.
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I know it is a silly thing, but I got my tax stamp from the NFA this last week and started my 10 day waiting period on the gun (in CA). Took exactly 6 months. If you are going through the process don't get too worked up over it, I was very impatient in the beginning but I bought a couple of Glocks to distract myself and ease the wait.
Definitely excited to pick up and shoot my new toy next week. Its a Serbu Super Shorty Remington 870, pistol grip and 6.5" barrel. Probably the least practical gun I own.
Either way, it feels good to get that stamp! Kinda like a Christmas countdown.
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Just thought I would update here- I went up to Triple B Clays for my birthday yesterday, and shot trap, skeet and their sporting clays course. I found the shorter SX2 was great for skeet, and I had no problems with the easy shots on clays, but the longer and faster shots just destroyed me. I ended up switching over to the 28 inch 870 and started producing lots of smoked targets. There were some really fast crossers way out there on the "quail" stage and I just dusted them without having to think about lead or anything. The overhead targets (not sure what they are called, but they are thrown from a tower behind me) were likewise crushed with the 870. I couldn't hit them with the SX2.
I always thought that having the 24" barrel and the extension was good enough, I had told myself that the weight was like an O/U, and that long receiver made it the same thing. I think I will stick with using it on steel. It was a real eye opener. On Skeet where you "know" the flight of the clay I made the SX2 work but I found that I wasn't smooth. I can certainly whip it faster but I seemed to be over running the target then trying to ambush, sometimes with success and sometimes without.
Just like I measure changes to my USPSA gun on the timer, I have to say compared to the SX2 I went from 60% to 80% with the 870 on the course I shot. I am thrilled for all the guys who can do it with their 3 gun shotguns, and I can break easy targets well enough with it, but I will be using the 870 for the foreseeable future. I did handle a Beretta A400 Xcel, and it felt magical. Id really like to try shooting some 30 and 32 barreled guns.
Thanks again for all the input! I will keep up the work with the 870 unless the bug bites harder, then I will be having a hard look at the beretta 3 series (although I am somewhat drawn to the Citoris, and they take the same chokes I have for my SX2).
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I am patiently waiting to get the rest of the parts. Planning on using the G24, Briley barrel, dawson FO front and adjustable rear, stock trigger, and arredondo extensions. I want to see how far I can make it with no magwell and a stockish trigger (I'm no vogel or sevigny, but I feel it will help me in the long run). I am currently around C class with a G17, night sights, and dot connector.
Oh yeah, I have an SS guide rod I turned from a 1/4" bolt on my drill press. Its ugly, but works.
Not to threadjack, but are these mainly in open type holsters or are people using Kydex? It seems locally almost all the limited guys use open holsters, but I wanna throw a 9 conversion barrel and ejector housing in and use it for three gun so I am planning on making kydex for it. I like the draw from my production kydex, I think I will try to emulate it for the 24 but cut the front out 1.5 inches lower to keep the same draw with the longer barrel.
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My dual duty gun is a g17 with a dot connector, stock springs and a home polish job. Not perfect, but serviceable for both. Requires a deliberate pull but pulls smooth and with some practice I can get my hits.
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+1 Less powder, less air space in the case, faster reloads, more positive ejection- and cost. I guess if you are trying to wring the last bit of accuracy out of a .357, a .357 case might be advantageous due to a shorter "jump" to the throat but even .38 short colt seems to be plenty accurate for the practical shooting sports.
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Thanks, I will check out those files.
As far as a mill, I am sure that is the best way to do it, but if a mill was in the budget you would have an order for a 6" Fat Free instead of making my G24 work. One day I hope to order one (or more) of your guns.
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"You don't need an AR, that would go through the bad guy and through your walls and your neighbors walls and all the way down the street." The suggestion? "Get a levergun in .44 mag, then you never need to worry about overpenetration. Your kids could sleep like babies in the next room over and you wouldn't have to worry about hurting them if you missed."
A woman came in looking for ammo for her airweight J frame, the clerk tried to sell her 3 boxes of ammo "First you want 2 rounds of snake shot, you know to discourage an assailant. If that doesn't work you want to have 2 rounds of .38 wadcutters because they are easier to shoot accurately. If that fails you need a full house .357 magnum jacketed hollowpoint." She asked if she really needed to carry 3 different rounds, and what if there were multiple attackers. Expert response "Well ma'am, if there is more than one attacker they will run away at the snake shot". I recommended she get a box of standard pressure .38 special hornady critical defense. Mr. Expert pointed out I wasn't a cop or anything, so what could I know. So I asked him if he was and he said no but he had to pull guns on people all the time. I left.
"Glock: Perfection"
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Update: My Gen 2 G24 also has some trigger bar induced frame movement. However I cannot feel it while gripping the pistol normally, and it is very slight. I will just leave that one alone. Trigger doesnt have the same staging issue my 17 had.
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I am picking up my Glock 24C today and have ordered a Briley gunsmith fit barrel for it. I wanted to try to pick up a few files, I have some large ones that I have used for rougher metal work and some very small ones (I think they are from harbor freight or similar) I have used for sight dovetails. If I am building my file collection, is there any sort of "local" store like Lowes, Sears, or Home Depot that would have a few decent files? What sizes and styles should I be looking at?
I would greatly appreciate input on this as I want to fit the barrel properly. I am patient and have a steady hand, but I would like to start with the right tools for the job.
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I have not contacted Glock, I suppose I could do so but I have no interest in a Gen 3 frame, and I suppose that is no guarantee either that my next one will not flex. I go out of my way to find Gen 2 frames because I don't particularly care for the Gen 3 "enhancements".
I figure if guys do grip reductions and stippling and all that (tame compared to some of the mods I have seen guys do) a heat gun shouldn't scare me. Just finished, sighting along the frame reveals a straighter line on the outside than when I got the pistol. Feels good, didn't make a huge difference, but took out some of the increased pull before the break and made me feel better. I think perhaps my trigger bar has too much lateral movement (and I have tried several bars), I am not sure what is "normal" but I think my issue is fixed now.
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Yes it is flexing visibly outwards, video isn't coming out because nothing I have will do macro video well. I can actually feel it swell in my strong hand up until the striker releases, at which point it springs back in as a.roberts noted. I am tempted to get out the heat gun and a plywood wedge, but that seems maybe too risky. I guess it isn't critical, but it would be nice to not have to be flexing my frame as part of my trigger pull.
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I have a Gen 2 police trade in G17 that I have been using for production (and sometimes limited). I have been trying to get the trigger pull to be more smooth and predictable, and with stock springs and a dot connector I am happy with the break. However as I go to take up the slack the trigger bar causes the right sight of the frame to perceptibly shift outward. I had tried tweaking the old bar to minimize it, and I just threw in a new bar and its a bit better, but it is still somewhat disconcerting that every time I squeeze that trigger I have to overcome the resistance of the frame.
Is this a design feature? The interior of the frame seems to have cutouts designed to wipe the trigger bar clean. Can I do something to add a bit more clearance or is that how it is supposed to be? I haven't noticed other glocks being like that. I will compare it to the G24 I am picking up on Tuesday.
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Alright, it sounds like I have some experimentation to do. I ordered another choke for the SX2 and another for the Remington. I am going to bring both next time I go. I would love to figure out how to make the SX2 work, and despite being a 24" barrel it is as long as a lot of 28" double guns. Otherwise it will be the remington for now. I will also check out the Beretta semi autos. A lot of people have recommended them to me for starting clays more seriously.
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I think the reason no one has tried to answer this is because there are too many variables cost wise.
Typically you would want a slide with the breech face cut for 9mm, a 9 mm extractor, and barrel plus the parts to complete the slide assembly. You may need to change the ejector as well, but that should be about it assuming your 9mm mags will present the cartridge properly .
Armed with that knowledge you can contact a smith and let them tell you what labor would be, and price parts either of his choosing or deals you can find on your own. Occasionally you can find awesome deals on slides, barrels, etc.
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I was getting some battering on the head of my guide rod with a worn out factory kimber spring. Switched to ISMI 16, then once I tuned the extractor I went down to ISMI 14 lbs. I am pretty happy there. The 16 actually "feels" a bit softer to me, but my splits are faster with the 14 so that is what I am running now. I am guessing that with the 16 the muzzle dips a bit on closing.
I know you are asking about recoil springs, but the mainspring weight can also affect slide velocity a bit, I use Ed Brown 19 lb mainsprings.
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Thanks for the feedback, those seem like the keys I need to get started. I am trying to track down a book on heat treating at my local library. This may take a while to figure out, but as long as I have the equipment I will experiment with it.
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There are replacement barrels in that length, the tricky part is the 3 1/2. I think there was a 3 1/2" turkey version with a 24" barrel but most of the sx series/gold and all the slp guns are 3 inch. There is a lot of information on this forum about what barrels interchange.
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Anyone wory about OAL with 38 special?
I have fiddled a bit with OAL, and it's not terribly picky. Remember, lots of people shoot .38 special out of .357 mag chambers. Trimmed or shorter cases can work as well. An old PPC shooter told me that they would build PPC guns on .38 special frames to minimize the jump the bullet made from the case to cylinder throats, and that they would load the rounds long for the same reason. I tried that and found with lead I would get buildup that prevented the cartridges from fully chambering. So I backed it off a few thousandths, and haven't had to mess with it. If you are shooting lead sometimes the crimp groves will suggest where to seat the bullet.
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Never try to find the "clutch" when manually shifting an automatic.
At 16 I had an old Mercedes turbodiesel with an automatic, and a Trans Am with a 350 LT1 and a 6 speed manual. I didn't want to park the TA on the street by school so the Mercedes was the daily driver, but I raced the Trans Am at sanctioned 1/8 mile drags, and drove it anywhere I knew it was safe to park it.
The turbodiesel was absolutely gutless unless you held it in gear until the turbo had spooled up and then it would get out of its own way. I was driving on some empty backroads when I decided to grab second, at about 35 mph- and mashed the parking brake to the floor while bumping the shifter.
Only did that once...
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Depending on how often you are planning on switching calibers the 550 probably makes the most sense. I do a lot of smaller batches of different calibers (when I take people to introduce them to shooting, for example) so I love the 550's versatility. I ended up purchasing a second 550 to keep one machine set up for small primers and one for large. Now that I am starting to get more serious about USPSA I am considering a 650 or 1050 for .40, but I am still glad I can load .223, .38, 9mm, and .45 on the 550s. I can get about 400 rounds per hour out of the pistol calibers.
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I find the Dawson basepads to be excellent, and make it easier to not only seat magazines but also to strip a magazine that will not drop free. I use them on my wilson mags. So I would vote option 1.
Option 2 could work, but if you succeed there may not be an adequate amount of pad sticking out to be able to reliably seat the magazine.
Option 3 would work with quite a bit of trimming and shaping, but the Dawson pads are so nice and have the grooves to be able to remove them quickly.
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I am just getting started in tuning mags and I have a trio of CMC power mags with spread feed lips. I can bend them back, but they don't stay in spec very long. Going to start playing with double stack STI mags, too.
I have read heat treating is part of the magazine manufacturing process, with ad copy referring to heat treated lips or bodies. What kind of temperatures and processes are involved?
I have a fairly sophisticated setup, a programmable kiln with a thermostat that can hold at temperatures and gradually reduce them, etc. Only problem is I have no idea where to start as far as temperatures and duration. The STI mags are 410 SS, and I am not sure on the CMCs.
Is there any advantage to a heat treat for mags? If so what would the process entail? Is the talk about heat treated magazines just hype?
Opinions welcome, even if the opinion is don't bother.
Guide Rod Length
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
I don't have either, but are you talking about full length or GI style rods for said guns?