StravIs09
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Posts posted by StravIs09
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I am a fan of Wolf Gold in the nordic 16" not as good as my noveske 16" but easily 1Moa and super cheap. I only have a 6x scope but i am sure it can actually be better than 1moa. my 55 hornady hand loads with 2230 and with h322 are just under an 1moa if i try. my 75s with r15 is about the same as the wolf gold but I trust them more at range. For me I cant really beat the wolf gold at 100y. I have about 2k rounds thru the nordic barrel and save the noveske barreled gun for the bigger matchs.
Just what I have seen and done.
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I just picked up and have been shooting the cmr mk6 for a month now. the reticle is good but actual information on the like mpeltier is suggesting is lacking. the other problem is the .2mil per click adjustment. at 200Yards (what it says to zero at) is 1.2" per click which makes the sighting in a pain. but i am also one to complain about the 1/2 moa per click on other scopes..
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Mp15-22 might be the only thing that works. its better to work 100% than be cool.
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Its possible yes. the BCG has already been hardened so keep that in mind. I have done it myself as well if i wasn't left handed i would have just bought the JP. And that is what i recommend to people.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=195540&p=2170450
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some of the noveske barrels may be polygonal if i am not mistaken. fluting should be done before the bore and rifling is cut with a polygonal barrel. I learned the hard way. my button rifled noveske noticed no change after rifling. the polygonal barrel that I machined using the same process as the first one(same program, depth, fixtures)was absolutely worthless after being fluted. I thought it was the barrel and then questioned my ammo which ran good in other guns. I spend $$$ working up loads with 53s 68s 69s 75s 77s. with n133, varget, r15, 2230. and had no sucess. questioned the barrel nuts torque, the gas block, the buffer/lock up, the comp, and the crown. i took it apart and put it together. until i realized i should just scrap it and start over. it has to due with how polygonal is produced, relieving the Outside DIAMETER, also relieves and from my experience warps and destresses the inside bore.
the 14.5 afgan barrel is awesome, heavy like a 20" but such a good shooter for me at least.
So long story short I sent my brand new Noveske 14.5" barrel to Marvin Pitts to get dimpled. He also assembled my complete upper (Noveske gen 3 receiver, NSR rail, RCA LW carrier, Lantac Dragon brake). I took it out yesterday to test fire and it shoots HORRIBLE! I'm talking 5-6" groups at 80 yards with 77gr match that shoots amazing through my other Noveskes. Only thing I can think of is that the dimpling somehow introduced stress into the barrel. I read on another thread that a guy had a similar problem with his krieger that he had fluted. He got his barrel cryo treated and the accuracy returned. Anybody think Cryo treatment is my answer? Any other ideas?
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Triangle post tr24 best scope/worst reticle
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i am glad i was able to get into the match. Thanks Stealthy. Rifle only matches are awesome and we need more of them or (2 gun- pistol rifle)
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try a different sizing die. I had similar issues when my machine was not set up properly. try some factory ammo.
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My average was just over 2900fps- I have since ran out of them as any shooter should
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I loaded N-133 at .5 less that the max load on the carton. best ammo i have ever produced. I wish smk's and n-133 were as cheap as say 55 off brand fmj and 2230
the load produced a 1 in group at 200 with me shooting:D
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The Nordic barrels have some design features that improve accuracy, reliability and soften the recoil impulse...all things we want in a 3Gun rifle barrel. Those 30 rounds of hoser targets followed by 5 targets at 350 on out...with the Nordic barrel, you will know it is you and not the barrel if you miss.
cant speak about the nordic 18, the nordic 16 is very accurate(more than just a bit over gassed though). I know you are not asking about 16" barrels but i thought i would speak up because this forum seems to just love their 18s
16s all the way
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i had a vortex 1-6 and went to a tr24, you have to do some testing to figure out the ranges( try a 280 or so zero) hold under everything for the most part. not ideal reticle, probably one of the worst. but maybe the most forgiving eyebox(ideal for 3gun) and red dot fast close.
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Have you thought about using a machine shop in your area to produce the brake?
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Really close targets why would you even need sights. yesterday instead of clearing the last round on the public range i took a off hand shot on a 200yard piece of steel(lucky) and i might not be able to do it again but the length of the handguard's top rail is good enough reference for me. and if you take the time to roll you gun over you are probably wasting time just getting you head inline to take a shot.
2 cents. coming from a someone who would never put flip up on my rifle cause tacticool!
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I figured out how to make the links show up as pictures.
From left to right (standard weight full auto bcg, My first prototype on the mill, and the edm plunge/ edm wire cut)
The bolt carrier with gas key weights 6.15 oz without the bolt and firing pin
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Tag for updates. I've got a lefty gun.
Couldn't get the links / pictures to work. Can you repost?
I messaged you, That is the best i could do on the pictures. if someone can repost the actual picture that would be great.
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The bolt and gas key are at 6.1 oz it started at 9.3 oz. I am going to edm another one and then have them coated one at a time so that i can keep at least one of them in my gun shooting.
did some testing and it works exactly as i intended.
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Some pictures of some of the things i have been working on.
<a href="http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/Samuel_Travis/media/ff6dd93c-75f3-47ca-a719-78f7b4cb2c6c.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg505/Samuel_Travis/ff6dd93c-75f3-47ca-a719-78f7b4cb2c6c.jpg" border="0" alt="3 photo ff6dd93c-75f3-47ca-a719-78f7b4cb2c6c.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/Samuel_Travis/media/6b78bd24-3b87-4429-b423-151241386597.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg505/Samuel_Travis/6b78bd24-3b87-4429-b423-151241386597.jpg" border="0" alt="2 photo 6b78bd24-3b87-4429-b423-151241386597.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/Samuel_Travis/media/e5cf12f8-7723-4db5-8b65-97a4c49c0dea.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg505/Samuel_Travis/e5cf12f8-7723-4db5-8b65-97a4c49c0dea.jpg" border="0" alt="1 photo e5cf12f8-7723-4db5-8b65-97a4c49c0dea.jpg"/></a>
Testing to follow
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I would say no on the carbine length buffer tube. go with a vltor A5 tube and a A0 buffler. you will get the best of both worlds.
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Thanks Mick See you saturday.
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Get a longer set screw that has a nylon insert in the thread to keep the screw from turning itself out.
McMaster-Carr should have them. There will still be a gap but should fix the rattle.
local companies as well as McMaster-Carr did not carry a longer set screw. It will be a hard task to get a screw in the same thread with a platic insert.
Just Loctite the tensioning screw - that is what it is for.
I'd rather have to do that or use an Accu-Wedge than have to use a hammer & punch to pull them apart like I do on my Noveske/VLTOR combo.
lock tite on the set screw in the current condition will likely not hold as the set screw is barely threaded into the receiver because of how far it needs to stick out to even touch the upper receiver.
Accuwedge will have to be the ticket.
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Get a longer set screw that has a nylon insert in the thread to keep the screw from turning itself out.
McMaster-Carr should have them. There will still be a gap but should fix the rattle.
I will measure the set screw and probably order tomorrow. Thanks
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A JP Tension Pin is an option for you.
This is something i am now interested in.. Thanks
Loctite the tension screw.
See if a Quentin Defense tension screw will fit, if you are using say a Sun Devil lower. They have a nylon head and are pretty long.
Mick
Not a sundevil, i picked it up off your good friend stealthy at smm3g if that helps give you a better understanding without trashing a company on a forum
I wish someone would make their uppers and lowers with undersized rear takedown pin holes. Then we can finish ream them after assembly for a perfect fit.
that would be sweet, a gunsmith style fit
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Whats up raging 3gunners!
Alright I recently did a build and it turned out pretty awesome, individually I really like all of the components that went into the build.
nordic 16" barrel
midwest gen 2 key mod 15"
pri brake
syrac
smooth gizzle trigger (highspeed national match)
bad safetys
A5 and emod stock set up.
the issue and one thing holding me back from loving this rifle build is how loose the upper and lower fit. it feels like a cheap Ak that rattles around on the pins.
The lower is by itself absolutely awesome and comes equipped with a tensioning screw in the back of the receiver but to get the upper tight the screw is 1/4" exposed and feels very lose and doesn't stay set. The adjustment doesn't stay set for more then a few minutes it seems and before I make it to the range or even put any rounds down range the upper and lower are very loose.
I know that this has almost no effect on the function or accuracy of the rifle but it just doesn't feel like a top notch gun.
Options
1. accu wedge- although this might be the best/cheapest option to fix the issue I just dont like the gap in the upper and lower that it would create.
2. lock tight the tension screw and hope it sticks. still it creates a sizable gap in the upper and lower
3. drill and re- tap the screw to a much bigger size for strength rigidity
4. machine some collets to press into the upper receiver and adhere some shims to the upper receiver so that the pins fit snug and firmly attach the upper to the lower.- leaning towards this option. maybe the most costly..
What do you all think?
Thanks
Sam
Ballistic Anomaly: Prvi 75gr Match
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
It must being going very very slow for 75gr ammo. like 2350?
Idk i am probably wrong but just a crazy idea. do you have lots of berms at varying ranges like a small berm at 50, 100, 200, 300, 500, 600? that could (maybe) have something to do with the wind and air pressure flowing over the peaks of the berms. ? OR your ammo is doing 2350fps. or your scope is not perfectly tracking mils or the latter is probably a more accurate answer..
Sam