Gun Geek
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Posts posted by Gun Geek
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Whist setting up a brainstorm come to mind for a toolhead holder. This is the prototype and will be followed up with some less warped wood , and other minor alterations, what do you think?
It's made with 50BMG cases with the primer holes drilled out to accomadate a screw to fasten them down. bottle neck allows the toolhead to rest on it and keeping the dies from hitting the bench/surface. It took me a while to figure out how to neck the 50BMG down. I used the center hole in the 550 toolhead (from the bottom side, tapped them in a couple of times) then flipped the toolhead over, tapped the neck back in and collapsed the shoulder just a smidgon to stop the neck from returning/springing back to a larger size.
You get my vote for simple and cheap. You also get the style points - it would be cool to have a row if 50 BMG cases along the back of the bench.
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Geek,
Thanks much for the detailed info. I have several spare parts kits so I will try to go through it tonite and replace all these little things and see if that helps. If It doesnt work out, I think I'll just tear it off the bench let you have it.
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are you using the A part of it or the G part of it? And do you have a cordless phone?
If you have A and a 5Ghz phone, they can interfere. Interference = lower speed. If you are using G and you have a 2.4GHz phone, they can interfere. If you have a panasonic 5Ghz phone, it'll interfere with both depending on the model of phone as panasonic kind of lies on some of it's models and uses both 5ghz and 2.4Ghz. If it is G, the microwave can also interfere with it when running (as well as any 2.4Ghz cordless).
Also you might want to DL netstumbler for you PC and see who else is running wireless in the neighborhood (if applicable), and make sure you are on a different channel than they are to avoid interference.
Also make sure you are connected to YOUR router and not someone else's. Turn on all your security to make sure nobody else is connected to YOUR router as sharing the signal can slow you down very much.
Haven't even messed with the wireless part yet. This speed problem is via wire connection.
I will exchange the router and see what happens. Probably today.
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I take it the tube's thread is the same with the M1 and M2?
The tube thread and diameter are the same on the M1, M2, SBE, SBEII, within the tolerances discussed above. The same mag extension fits on all of the models. It may be the same on others, but I haven't examined others.
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Geek,
The primers are fine, they all seat without a problem, but the primer seating takes place after I push it into line. (I am pushing the case into line before the upstroke is complete with the primer going in on the way down). The shellplate is a number 5. I seem to have lost my master book that tells the right numbers for shellplates, locater pins, colors for the plastic parts, etc.. so I am calling Dillion today for another copy. I am gonna ask them what they think as well and hopefully they will understand what my dumb@ss is trying to explain.
BTW, I am pushing just the top of the case in Station 2, but as soon as I go to line up the top, the whole shellplate pops and rotates another 1/8" or so. I tried to sorta explain that before and I didnt do it very well. Thanks again for the help.
My book says Shell plate #5 is the correct one for 38 Super. Should be using locator buttons #3, station 1 locator is # 13546 (but the locators shouldn't play here.
If the plate is rotating when you move the shell, then it probably is a problem with indexing (like you said in the first place!) Make sure that the spring on the detent ball is stiff enough (Item 17, page 54, part number 13997). It will take a set and relax. Take it out and stretch it a little, or replace it.
Also, make sure the index pawl (item 18, page 54, part number 13667) is not too worn, and that the Pawl Spring (Item 19, part number 13938) is OK. Last, check out the indexer return spring (Item 22, part number 13791). I think all of these parts come in a Dillon spare parts kit, you might get the kit and go through the press and change out all the little parts - kinda like a carb rebuild on your 67 GTO.
Or, of course, you can send the hunk of junk to me and I will dispose of it for you. I'd even pay the shipping.
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Let me graphicate a bit more what I said.
The orange/red graphic is what my right (dominant) eye sees; the light blue/blue is what my left eye sees. Lens focus is on the front sigh with both eyes, target and rear sight are blurry. The green circle is where me eyes are locked, as you can see, it's not exactly on the front sight, it's a bit in front of it.
Both eyes open, Type 4 or Type 5 focus.
Same as above, closing the left eye.
Now Closing the right eye.
I am left eye dominant, and I shoot with both eyes open. The top image is pretty much what I see, except I don't see the blue circle (a hazy, displaced image of the target), unless it is very close (1, maybe 2 yards). I have learned to ignore that "side image" of the gun.
Infact, that's what I experience as dominance - I can ignore that other image if it is from my right eye, but not if it from my left eye.
By keeping both eyes open, I maintain peripherial vision (finding targets, cover, etc, balance when moving, and depth perception (so I can keep from slamming into things).
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Well after messing with it a couple of days I'm getting used to it. With riding the safety it changed my grip just alittle and made it just a little harder to get the mag release button. I'm have to pin the safety, then nothing to worry about.
Flyin40
I have exactly the same issue is a 1911. However, I shoot IDPA a lot and it is oficially against the rules there to pin a safety (and they say this year they are supposed to check), so I fiddled with it enough that the slightest of movement disengages the safety.
Per your other posts about carrying a 1911 - does the need to pin the safety make you think about the 1911 as suitable carry gun? Makes me think about it.
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I've been using the socket screw stop on my Para and it my Kings safety has not broke, I added a larger paddle and shield so it resembles the Swenson.
I've used both Chip McCormick and Wilson safties. When I installed them, the grip (stock kimbers) had to be relieved just a little so that the end of the safety had enough room. I was very careful about how much I relived it. Just enough to let the saftey click off, but no more.
The end of the safety rides on the top of the grip - very little stress is put on the saftey pin, most is on the front of the saftey and the grip.
No broken safeties!
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Any contact info for pat?
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Can you ghost load the M2?
I think that you can, but you have to changes some stuff on the bolt. I think There is a notch or something on the bottom that you have to fill in. I've got some instructions on how to do it with JB Weld. But that has to be replaced at some point - it flakes off. I don't like the idea of that flaking off into the action and Murphy will ensure that the ghost load feature will crap out in the middle of a match.
You still need a mag tube extension (the Benelli factory version would work, it gives you 8+gohost is 9). However I had one on order for 6 months (with the standard "next week" promise. None of the local shops have them and when I looked around on line - Brownell's etc, were out of stock. I gave up on that option. That's when I discovered the DMW model. It gives you 9 in the gun, so you don't have to alter the bolt.
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The station 1 problem is somewhat fixed. I fiddled with it and it seems to be much less frequent. As for the station 2 problem, I did adjust the locater tab by turning the screw and it was too loose. That doesnt seem to fix it though. What I am doing is when the case is in station 2, I reach up and push the top of the case to the left, which then lines it up properly with the powder drop bell. The entire shellplate does move a small amount when I do this, but it ultimatly lines everything up properly. Station 2 doesnt appear to be an issue of tension pushing into the shellplate hole, but how far around the shell plate has advanced. Im sorry if I am not explaining this very well, and thanks much for the help.
When you move the top of the shell to the left is only the top that is moving? Was the shell straight up and down or cocked before you moved it?
Does the primer seat correctly? Are you having problems crushing primers? If the primer is seating, then the shell is in the right place. If the plate is not rotated (indexed) correctly, even a little, the primer won't seat.
Are you sure you have the right shell plate? What number is it?
Just keep answering the questions, and we'll get to the bottom. I'll keep working it or you can always call Dillon (who will ask you pretty much the same questions, so be ready!).
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I thought the RCBS small base die was the heat for reloading .223 for semi-auto’s until I started using Lake City brass instead of exclusively WW. I guess the LC has a springier quality (I know it doesn’t grow quite as much after sizing as the WW does) and won’t tolerate the RCBS SB as well as more ductile brass does. I was constantly sticking LC cases no matter how much, or little lube I used until I got the mutha’ of all stuck cases and gave up on extracting the sucka’
I am not the only one here that hates them either (search and ye shall find).
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Regards,
Now that's what i've been looking for. I have had some problems with sticking cases.
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The only SB RCBS .223 size die I ever used is now in a landfill somewhere with a well lubed lake City case embedded in it. I absolutely loathe the RCBS SB size dies.
Well, I think it is clear that you don't like SB dies, and that's cool. Why? There may be something about them I haven't hit yet or don't attribute to the die.
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Copy of my reply to your post about pinned safteies. I'm doing this on both 1911s and Glocks. Saves me having to shift the gun to drop the mag. Kinda hard to work the release on a Glock with my finger - they're kinda stiff, but Glock says to rack the slide anyway!
The geek has a theory that 1911s are really designed to be used best by lefties - kind of a cruel joke by JMB. Makes sense to me that you have to take your finger off the trigger to do something administrative with the gun. You don't wnat it there at this time anyway.
Also, ever notice that the old colts have the loading door on the right side of the gun? they are a lot eaiser to load when shooting left handed. Though I suspect this has more to do with riding a horse or something.
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I tried messing around and hitting the mag release with the right handed just to get an idea of what it takes. This is what I notice
For a righty, at least me with big hands I had to turn the gun and adjust the grip to get a good release. There was not alot of movement but compared to using your trigger finger thats was a huge amount.
For me as a lefty all I do is tilt the gun to the left enough to see the inside of the magwell. I maybe tilt it 2 inches and bring the mag to the gun. I didn't have to do any othe movement besides my trigger finger hitting the release.
I'm sure some righties don't have alot of movement to get a good release.
Flyin40
The geek has a theory that 1911s are really designed to be used best by lefties - kind of a cruel joke by JMB. Makes sense to me that you have to take your finger off the trigger to do something administrative with the gun. You don't wnat it there at this time anyway.
Also, ever notice that the old colts have the loading door on the right side of the gun? they are a lot eaiser to load when shooting left handed. Though I suspect this has more to do with riding a horse or something.
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Armor All on the mags and mag wells helps as well.
That's my trick!
Be sure you get it off your hands before a match. Armor all makes a Glock during recoil something like trying to catch a fish in a stream.
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Geek,
I tried that stuff and the number 2 problem still exists. I think that the shellplate is not going far enough around in its course of travel. The press still works and I can load on it. Is there an adjustment for the amount of index??
So the station 1 problem seems to be fixed?
If the shell plate is not rotating enough, all the stations should be fouled up. Do you hear a click (the detent ball under the plate locking in) as the plate rotates around?
Did you actually move the station 2 locator tab by turning the screw? Does it touch the brass when there is a shell in station 2? You might try putting a little more tension on it.
The goal in adjusting station 1 and 2 is so that the shell is held aganst the bottom of the cutout in the shell plate. Too much tension and the shell may be tilted. Make sure you don't have too much tension - the shell should be striaght up and down and as far into the plate as possible.
If you stick your finger in to fix it in station 2, how do you actually move the shell to make it work?
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Looks like they're set up for Tactical Division, though I don't think you'll be too competitive with either one.
Could work for some of the tactical matches I've seen - carry it all and carry it hot. A sling is an absolute in that situation.
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Just got a note from Dave at DMW. He has confirmed my research with his own, and is making a new collar.
Let ya know when it arrives
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I'm not religious about what 2wire tells me (I use oters as well). It is only part of the test.
Loading a "rich" page (like Yahoo) is noticably slower through the router than directly connected to the MODEM.
If I'm really froggy, I'll time a download. The absolute numbers are not really that relaible, but the magnitude of the difference and the noticbly longer load times are part of the decision.
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I do crimp .223 and swear by it. I use the Dillon taper crimper and set it to just flatten the case to the bullet. I also use a Lyman VLD reamer to put a very shallow leade on the inside of the case mouth which when crimped just flattens the taper to the case instead of indenting the bullet with the edge of the case mouth. This method has proved to be just as accurate as no crimp and provides insurance against bullet setback which can drastically effect pressure. In fact, I believe the slight crimp I use standardizes the case mouth release tension and actually reduces the SD of the load over a chrono. I only do the VLD ream routine with brass that is going to get a 69, or 77gr Sierra MatchKing in it. For 55gr ball I don’t care if the crimp is beautiful, or not. I just want a crimp PERIOD I still get under one MOA with 55gr FMJ this way (bulk Hornady BT’s with a cannelure).
George:
Have you tried the FCD for the crimping - trim length really isn't important, and since it is a collet design, it won't crush case necks. I have had very good results, and I actually crimp all of my rifle stuf f- even the 308 for the bolt gun. Just as you said, I have seen SD go down significantly.
BTW, I haven’t checked trimmed vs un-trimmed for accuracy using the Scharch, But way back when I first started loading .223 for NRA High Power (1987). I ran a batch of new WW brass for 3 firings without trimming and found my groups growing in size until I got a Gracey and did the dirty to the cases. After that, the group sizes stayed the same for the life of those cases. My rule on trimming is “If you fire and size it, trim it” PERIODWhat about the RCBS X dies? Ever tried them? Most of my dies are X dies, but it hasn't worked out that I actually use them that way.
What about small base dies? My 223 dies are SBs, and I've never had any problems with feeding.
Geek
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First thing to try would be to set up your computer to use a static IP instead of DHCP (Auto). That usually adds speed to any Ethernet LAN.
Linksys had me try that - no change
It is also possible that you have a 10 base T Ethernet card instead of a 10/100 card in the computer. If so, that and DHCP being enabled for the computer could be robbing you of speed.
The modem is a only 10. The Router and PC are 10/100. The MODEM/PC connection (at 10) is the fast configuration. Could there be a problem or config issue with the 100 function on the PC (sure there could) how could I tell?
Also check to see if the buffer settings in the computer are set to their max. Low settings there in the LAN control panels can also rob you of Ethernet speed.
More detail on this, please?
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Picked up a Linksys A+G router/WAP yseterday.
Hooked it up to my existing operational cable MODEM, no problems getting it to work. However when I visit sites, performance is significantly slower than when directly connected to the MODEM. This is via hardwire from the pc to the router - haven't even gotten to the wireless stuff yet.
When I go to a speed test site (2wire.com, dslreports), the speed is about 1/10 through the router (125 Kbps) as it is via the direct connect (1200 - 1300 kbps).
I expected som performance hit, 10% - 20%, but not this!!!
Spent a couple of hours on the phone with Linsys tech support. They're stumped.
Anybody got any ideas?
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Shooter's choice has a Polymer Safe Degreaser, but it is about $8 per can.
I use the non-chlorinated brake (Brakleen green can) cleaner whenever plastics synthetics are involved.
On metal only parts - hose'm with full strength Brakleen. Best stuff I've ever seen. Be sure you put some kind of oil back on the parts quickly if they are steel. This stuff takes all of the surface oil away, which means rust isn't too far behind.
It also takes the oil out of your skin!
Use outdoors? Maybe that's my problem...
Too Much Taper Crimp?
in General Reloading
Posted
Tell your buddy to get a Lee FCD. It will be the best $12 he will ever spend in this game.
Yes you can over crimp, the answer is not "it depends". Just take the flare out. Any more than that is too much.