kreativecid
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Posts posted by kreativecid
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Pro comes with better trigger, a f/o front sight and I believe a slightly heavier slide.
I purchased the 9L and put in a Apex sear and block, and the trigger is immensely better. Better than a stock Pro. I would also recommend Dan Burwell for trigger work. I put a f/o front sight in my width preference, blacked out the rear sight dots and polished up the internals. Absolutely perfect feeding and ejection.
Have not handled one and I would like to know the difference between a M&P Pro Series 5" and a M&P 9L
Thanks
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And you can log in and check GB's ended auctions to see if any were sold/unsold; if unsold maybe they didn't relist and you can contact seller to see if the 952 is still for sale.
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Your Bear Creek 135 RN fits at 1.150 in a Spartan? Dang it. Went out today and most definitely anything over 1.130 gives me fits with the 135gr BC. Same outing and the 1.150 BBI was flawless.
Same bullet fits in mine at 1.150"
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Ordered a CR because I could not find a AA. Price was right with free shipping and they had it in stock.
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My pre shoot routine includes a reminder to introduce my shooting hand to the grip. Introduce: Firm union, nothing limpy or freakishly strong. Make it comfortable for hand and gun to spend a lot of time together to get the job done.
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Stance, grip, front sight. Learn to trust your front sight. Easier said than done.
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After my 2nd match I got serious and purchased a shot timer and set up a safe dry fire course at home. I benefited from those two a lot. It's all part of the game butdry firing and hearing that dang bzzzzzzz regularly made it a lot more comfortable.
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I was the world's best single-shot can shooter and was ready for anything....then I did a few local matches and discovered I couldn't hit squat if forced to pull the trigger quicker than my usual 20 seconds of prep time.
Match play is a fun game. And do not show up to watch without your firearm or gear, just show up and pay your $10. Heck, many first timers are free.
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My 625JM revolver has about a 6.75# DA and a 2.5# SA if I remember correctly. Everything from initial takeup to trigger return is perfect.
I have a highend 1911 with a stock trigger. Owners of this gun rave endlessly about how crisp and blah blah blah. It sure is nice and feels good but the pull weight compared to my 1911 game gun makes me almost have accidental discharges when going from the heavier straight to lighter trigger pull weight which also has nice takeup and reset.
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Gun in question: STI Spartan 9mm 5".
I've been shooting a 130gr TC moly from Black Bullet International. Feeds perfectly in every 9mm I own from a Glock 34 to a M&P9L to a STI Spartan and CZ75b. OAL is on avg a 1.150 and will feed a 1.155. Accurate! Easy in, easy out.
Was given a sample of 135gr rn moly from Bear Creek. I like the company's customer service and their 200gr swc moly is easy feeding and accurate in every 45acp I own. I was hoping they'd get my business for a 9mm round.
The 135 round nose from Bear Creek would not let my slide go forward at least 75% of the time. Had rifling marks on the bullet side. Same OAL as BBI (1.150). Even at 1.140 it will not let the slide go all the way forward.
Is this a simple case of some bullets - even a presumably easy feeding RN - need a shorter OAL to feed? I should note the barrel in question is an unramped Spartan. Crimper is the Lee Deluxe Carbide (great results for a long time in 9mm and 45acp). I like loading as long as possible ala the 1.155. Or is this a case of my Spartan barrel doesn't like Bear Creek moly 9mm?
Addendum: just came across some info which suggests a OAL of about 1.125 would probably work. I'll try it tomorrow and report back in case someone else runs into this.
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WST in my revolver and 1911 with great success. Clean, smells good, not too smoky even indoors, not a lot of load info but enough can be found on BE.
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I'll give input based on the Trophy Match from CDNN since it's more like the RO even though you asked about the TRP which is a different use gun in theory and marketing.
$1099 for the Trophy Match gets you front strap checkering (about $250?), a magwell ($75?) and tighter fitting.
Let's say the RO is $799. $300 less has no FS checkering and magwell. I have checkering on a few 1911 but grip tape works wonders, too. And no magwell means you can personalize your own in case the SA factory is not to your liking. That's what SA did with the RO. Let you pay for what you did and did not need. Maybe a EGW bushing could get the RO closer to the TM.
Tough decision. My bud just emailed his range session target pics and even with the stock trigger his groupings were impressive. The ILS removal and a little spring and sear tweaking is in order but it's nice to see him with zero remorse or bad comments for the RO. And that is something a shooter can't put a price on.
Good luck in your decision.
So now I'm thinking of save the few extra $$$ and getting a TRP from CDNN. Smart move or waste of money?
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My gigantic box of BBI 130 is done. Worked great in the M&P9L and 5" 1911 9mm. Have a few 124fmj and 125 Bear Creek moly samples but I'm thinking of trying 147 moly.
Before I get a 100 pack sample are there any shooters who went from a 130 or 135 to a 147 using a powder like WST (or WSF). I have about 4 pounds left of WST hence my desire to stick with it plus I reload 45acp and it's a do-all great powder.
Always use Federal primers, mixed brass with long OAL and my MS is 17# and RS #10 in the STI. Obviously I can change things up if needed.
What should I expect with a 147 when reloading WST to make just a bit over PF?
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You just pushed my friend over the edge. He's calling Dawson tomorrow for the Spartan but he's choosing the f/o option in .100.
The deal was your choice of a Dawson FO front sight free or 1/2 off the ICE magwell. I chose the magwell, as it was a slightly better deal, but then I also paid $39 for a Dawson FO front, which they installed at no extra charge. Shipping was $25. The combination of the .100 wide Dawson FO front sight with the stock LPA rear sight is outstanding, near perfect IMHO.
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Thanks for the input. So you like the front-open TGO, that is very similar to the S&A since both are front-open. I need to look at the width of the funnel on the sides for both options.
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That would indeed make it very enticing. Shipping from Dawsons is about $35? But the sight is $43 including delivery and the buyer wouldn't have to deal with the install if done at DP. But if that magwell was half off, too, well, it's a total no brainer. Rereading the post it appears he chose the 1/2 off magwell but purchased the sight and Dawson installed it for free. My 9mm 1911 future buying friend eagerly awaits my copy/paste from your reply!
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Maybe this will help a new competitor.
Had a stage which required a reload. It went something like this: Shoot 6, reload new mag with mandated 6 round maximum, shoot 6.
On this day I was having issues with my mag insertions; I had become accustomed to the slide releasing and chambering a round in my M&P as opposed to the method of inserting a mag and manually releasing the slide.
I had a mental shortcoming from the previous stage where the slide did not automatically release & chamber, and when I inserted the mag forcefully for this stage it did exactly what I was used to: slide released and chambered the round. But I was unsure if it did so I racked the slide immediately which ejected the first live round. Unfortunately for me it was one of the six mandatory rounds needed for the stage.
Now I had 5 rounds for a 6 round stage. Thankfully I placed all 5 rounds on target but obviously I scored poorly.
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My new M&P9L did it every time as long as the mag insertion was forceful. Then one match I didn't slam the mag in forcefully enough and lost time wondering what to do next. I had become accustomed to the slide chambering a round that I forgot the basic act of slide release.
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That book has been recommended more than once. I think it's a sign I should just get it!
No not at all, Just if you were buying a barrel you could just as easily buy one with a bushing all ready fit, Fitting a bushing is pretty simmple, Unless your slide is really bad pretty much any name brand bushing can be fit to it, It's gonna be tight and may need some work to the retaining tab. So dont expect it to just go in, Kuhhasens book on the 1911 is a great resource and will tell you everything you need to know.
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Before going through the effort of installing a Dawson f/o front sight I will try some Testor's paint on the stock black blade. Should I apply Testor's to all of the front sight or just the top part?
From what I've read correct application of Testor's is durable and provides a very bright focal point.
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I was going to use the existing barrel and slide. Bad idea?
All bushings are gonna be sold with a advertised inside diameter you'll match to slightly smaller than your barrel. The outside diameter of the bushings are gonna be oversized like almost all 1911 parts to allow for fitting to your slide. Only issue I have with Ed brown bushings is the "Edbrown" stamped on the front of them. Have you bought your barrel yet ? Frequently barrels are sold as a barrel bushing matched set.
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Even with medium-sized hands I like the extra bit of room a S&A gives at the bottom of the MSH. Even with a proper high grip a S&A equipped 1911 feels right and balanced compared to a non-magwell equipped full size.
Yet I am very interested in the Techwell SP but notice it does not have that straight connection between the MSH and aft part of the magwell. For those who have or had both will the Techwell SP give a feeling of a fuller/longer grip or does the magwell almost "hide" under the MSH where the meaty part of the palm would lay on the S&A.
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This may be an option, too: http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/350601935/m/145103562/p/1
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I had grip tape everywhere. I'm talkin' up near the front sight!!
Later I took a few lessons and the instructor took all the grip tape off except where my weak hand makes contact on the grip and front strap.
I've been told it's only really needed on the front strap and the upper part of the grip on the side where your weak hand makes contact.
That's awesome, though
Sanding grips?
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
The TRP's grips are painful! Been using Horned Lizards by Davidson and they are comfy but still, uh, grippy.
Do I sand them a bit? It's where my strong hand wraps around and onto the left side panel. The tiny prickly raised surfaces are like safety pin pokes.
Will they dull out soon? Always wondered how long micarta grips lasted.....
Or do I apply another layer of vagasil and sell them and get another set of Horned Lizards?