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Patrick1981

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Posts posted by Patrick1981

  1. The only thing I remember maybe, isn't legal for Idpa. But anyway work with my Comp III's.
    The belt loop for me is very large, with a normal belt would be better to tighten it, or increase the thickness of the belt at that point.

    Otherwise it has too much play, but probably with a big or competition belt the problem is reduced.

  2. Thanks Warren, but for endshake ? I try with a 0,002 shim ?

    I have bad and good experiences with shims, sometime I put the smallest shim and after a few shot I damage the ratchet, making a ugly signs probably made by the contact from hand to ratchet..

  3. Hello

    I'm back on this post for another question.

    I own about two years ago about a 686-2 intake of 1987 in very good condition, the owner had held for 22 years in the drawer. Not a sign of rotation of the cylinder, not a scratch, perfect in alla parts.

    I've always kept aside, except December I used it for a workout to 300 rounds and after this May in a match of 200 round (always with factor reloaded ammunition).

    After cleaning, I began to feel a resistance on the rotation. I gave gasoline and tried to clean with compressed air residue in the cylinder yoke crane where he works and than oiled. The cylinder opens and closes well and the rod is perfectly aligned.

    But there is still this "brake" noise and cylinder slows down very quickly.

    After have cleaned one more time, I do the test of endshake and I realize that there is! Was not there before!

    Can go any which has developed with cos' a few hits?

    Is it possible that this is the cause of the strange friction in the rotation?

    Thanks a lot

  4. You're a Master! Great ideas!

    No, I can't have endshake now (but I have install a 0,004 to eliminate that 2 years ago)

    I use an Extended FP and a reduced FP return spring but since from the beginning I never have great result like on the others Smiths.

    In this days I analized more detalis and I see the face of the yoke crane is not perfectly square.

    I use a black paint pencil on the face, put inside the cylinder and run, put back and the black is gone only from 3/5 of the face. Is this another possible cause?

    The alignment seems good, open and closed smoothly.

    Thanks Warren.

  5. Hi guys

    After reading the Jerry Khunhausen book of revolver..I think develop why in my 686 SSR I can't have a trigger job well as on my old 686-2 and 686-5.

    I read the correct headspace is not lower than 0,060 and not over 0,064.

    Lower do bind and much cause mistfires.

    ( In mm. is 1,52 e 1,62 ) In my SSR I can put also 1,65 mm.

    Probably the best and resolutive way is change revolver.

    But for you there's any mysterious way to make something to reduce headspace of 0,10 mm. (0,004") and not enlarge cylinder gap ?

    Thanks for the miracle :)

  6. From my experience, if you find a 686 series 5 prelock in good condition is a great gun.

    Some series 6 have some problems.

    Old hammer mounted series is beautiful, but for may reason (replacement parts, no drill frame, no pinned front sight etc.), I prefer for competition the new style configuration.

    Anyway I have a 686-2 and shoot very well but is a secondary gun.

    Bye from Italy

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