diversmith
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Posts posted by diversmith
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Just for kicks I tried dropping some factory ammo into my EGW 7 hole case gauge and the RWS and Blazer brass dropped right in and out but Federal Champion wouldn't drop in all the way but they have all functioned fine thru my stock 35????? Are the EGW CASE gauges on the tight side? I don't have any other gauges in .40 to compare it against. I know that glock chambers are on the looser side?
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My G35 has a JP. I love it. No sharp edges.
I have several JPs and they are perfect for me
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Guys I am getting ready to buy one of the two. Now I already have a 35 set up for Limited and a 17 with a Jager Open kit. This one will be for home and woods defense and as a back up to the 35. I used to have a 20 and loved it. This time it would be a SF model and I will use a Vanek Classic trigger in it. Also I am considering a set of the target Ameriglos that Charlie sells. I also would be getting a .40 conversion barrel for it so can shoot either one. Now the 24 I considered because well they are not the easiest to get. Another thing, the 20SF would cost me 540.99 out the door where as the 24 would set me back 640.99 out the door. Want your opinion as to what you would go with and does anyone have or tried the Ameriglos's that Vanek sells?
Where are you getting a 24 for that price out the door????
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I can't justify spending more money on shell sorters. I pick up the brass before I shoot and keep that separate from my own factory or reloads. I get home and pour it all out on a white towel and first go over it with a magnet and then cull any odd stuff or obvious calibers I don't shoot and toss them in the recycle bin. I then lay out a row in my hand and do a quick roll back and forth to check for defects and then look at the headstamps and I sort from there. What I am left with after sorting is good brass so I don't waste my time and resources tumbling bad brass. It's not that slow and I find it to be very efficient in economy of motion. I go thru it one time, place it in the appropriate bin and it is labeled and easy to keep track of as I process it down the road. YMMV!!
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It gets you a Comfor-tech stock
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I "put together" quarter inch groups all day long............they really open up though once I fire more than one round.......
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Looking forward to this getting cleaned up
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Any other feedback on these? I'm really interested in one of these to replace my TR24 just to get the BDC feature. I'm very happy with the TR24 except for lack of any BDC. I really can't justify the Swarovski 1-6 because of the price even though it really impressed me at the SHOT show. It sounds like the Meopta has great glass, is very durable and pretty good daytime ill.
Thanks for any input
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Actually they don't Pat....you just push the screw from the other side, the nut then pops out and turns easily and free with fingers on the ADM. There's a screwdriver slot....its strictly optional though.
ADM, Bobro, Larue....all great mounts though, no need to pick spots off of any of them imo.
This is how I adjust mine...push the other side in and turn the nut the desired amount.
I can't believe that someone is saying Larue mounts are crap?????????
This thread is making my head hurt -
I Got one and it a had the Cierro Forge keyhole on the left side after the trigger guard but before the side of the mag well. Who makes Aero Precisions?
AFAIK...Aero does the manufacturing and they are said to farm out work and make lowers for others i.e. Surplus Ammo and Palmetto to name two
The thing is, there is a somewhat small group of true manufacturers that do forging and maching and they brand them out to all the other players that want branded lowers but don't have the machining capabilities or resources. I am sure places like Palmetto have to commit to a fairly large order or guaranteed series of ongoing orders to get thier rollmarks placed on the side
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Looking to get a couple of these....quick question: At what point does one have to declare pistol or rifle? Is there a better choice? e.g. maybe a pistol can be made into a rifle at a later time or vice versa? Please advise.
My last understanding was that at build time is when you have to decide. You can go from pistol to rifle but not vice-versa. I'll have to check to see if that's still the case. I use to be an FFL but that was decades ago...
This is all true...you can only build a pistol from a virgin stripped lower that has never been built into a complete rifle or ever had a stock placed on just the lower.
If you buy a stripped lower from an FFL it is sold as "other" instead of being identified specifically as a pistol or rifle. Buy the correct parts and build your pistol lower. Order your pistol upper in whatever length/configuration you want and there it is. If you live in a place like Vegas where Clark County regs state all pistols must be registered and be issued a "blue card", then you take your newly built AR pistol down to your local PoPo station and register it as a pistol.
This is how I just did mine
P.S. Wait to get your lower completely built before taking possession of a shorty upper...I wouldn't want to have an NFA length upper hanging around with no pistol lower to put it on
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I don't know for sure but most likely the same manufacturer as Surplus Ammo lowers, made by I think Aerotech... rumored to be the same manufacturer as Spikes Tactical. IF SO, there are no complaints I can find ont he Surplus Ammo/Aerotech lowers.
I have also heard the Palmetto lowers are made by Aero Precision. I have put a couple Aero lowers together for guys I work with, they bought the lowers at a local store, and when I compared them to my Essential Arms and Anvil Arms (went out of business but looks like they have just reappeared as Florida Arms), the Aero's have less magwell flare at the opening and the machining isn't as smooth inside the trigger guard and behind the pistol grip base. They went together pretty smooth, but if you are looking for the best fit/finish/machining/largest magwell opening, Essential Arms is a bit better albeit a little more expensive. If you want to build the absolute least expensive lower you can while still having an "in-spec" lower and have it come from a reputable company, Aero and the companies they manufacture for will fit the bill.
Just my .02 worth from what I have built/handled/owned
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I need a new follower for my new M2 that came with a red plastic one. Is the Nordic follower still considered the way to go? Thanks for the advice
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I'm running the UBR with my JP 18' upper and it balances out very nicely. I am running the LMOS BCG and a JP carbine spring and standard carbine buffer. It runs like a super greased top
As I recall, I am right around 600 rounds on it without a single hitch
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Thanks for the info...I just picked one up
Dammit
I just bought a mint w/ all acces. 21" M2 off Gunbroker!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now I have to cancel my barrel order first thing monday
UPDATE....I have to say that they were great about cancelling my order, very friendly and the only reason they asked for a reason I was cancelling was to ensure they were doing everything right, they just wanted to make sure they didn't have to make any improvements to the website or it wasn't a fault on their end. My card was refunded the same day. The guy said they are really making a push to offer as many Benelli parts as possible and have everything in stock
Good to see Benelli is changing it's attitude
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Last night I was just about to go to bed and popped up gunbroker only to see a new in the box M2 Field 28" for < $900 with less than 15 minutes to go. TMALSS I ended up getting it for $906. Impulse buying gets me in trouble.
I already have a 26" M1 that I have only extended the tube and put a Crums lifter on and I love it. I have not found the 26" to be too long but I wonder about the 28". I guess $906 and the cost of getting the barrel cut and tapped puts it pretty close to a new 24".
I wonder if the lifters the same on the M1's and M2's?
I feel your pain brother!!!!!!! I just found a 21" M2 comfortech on Gunbroker for 935.00 shipped and it was used but in very mint condition
I now have 4 Benellis
an M1, 2 M2s and a Competition Black Eagle.......yes, I have a sickness -
I actually noticed, and said "hmm", that I'd seen many folks having issues with their Benellis and FN-USA's.
I guess I am just lucky with my M1 that I bought used. I only have a little over 1k rounds so far. I did clean it once at 1k but I don't think it needed it I just felt bad about not doing it. Not once single hitch, bump, etc. I guess I should sell it before it starts failing all the time.
I need to sell my M1 AND my M2 as well...............they've run like tops too!
That's funny...at the many matches I have been to, I see much more of the "other" brands having issues than Benellis. I just watched a guy brag about how perfect his 930 has been just before his turn to shoot, and guess what? He went up on the shotty stage and his 930 had a hiccup
I think if you discount the guys who run crappy ammo and/or hang 5 pounds of junk on their Benelli, you will see very few malf's with Benellis
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Other than the trigger work, what do they do thats different than Triangle, Accurate Iron, C-rums, etc? Is it about $500 in anodizing/ion-bond/laser etching cosmetics?
Off the top of my head:
Lighten the bolt carrier by machining away some of the metal, make the bolt able to accommodate a ghost load, and ion-bond.
Lighten the trigger pull/match trigger job
Machine/bevel the metal around the loading port
Radius/smooth out the rough spots on the shell latches
Welded lifter
Oversized safety button
Dave's Metal Works mag tube, Wolf mag spring
Stippling on the grip area of the stock and fore end
Arredondo bolt release button
I went with the Salient because it was "one-stop shopping". Send the gun to one place, one time, and get everything done at once.
Accurate Iron and Triangle do or can do all of those things. CRums may be able to also.
I think the biggest differences between Benny and Salient is that Salient refinishes all of the metal work they do and of course, all of the stippling on the stock
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it's my understanding that the fixed magazine tubes were earlier models
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Congrats on a nice present...just got a 35 and am really liking it so far...I'm sure you will too!
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Thanks for the info...I just picked one up
Dammit
I just bought a mint w/ all acces. 21" M2 off Gunbroker!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now I have to cancel my barrel order first thing monday
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Thanks for the info...I just picked one up
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Actually, you should consider this an AD and not an ND, as it was an honest ammo failure. Yes, one could argue that you were negligent in the upkeep/maintenance/tuning of your equipment, but I don't buy that in this case. You can't possibly test every round you purchase to see if its primer is too soft WITHOUT firing the round in the process (or dismantling the primer to measure the tensile strength of the cup).
The best possible argument that it was an ND is that you could've chosen to run a rifle that doesn't have a floating firing pin, but how many such rifles are effective for 3-gunning?
Let yourself off the hook, bro. You did the best you could do. Some things are simply out of our control.
Yup...big difference between and AD & ND....BUUUUUT there is also a big big difference in where it was pointing...always best to point it at a berm
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16"= carbine length gas system
18"= rifle length gas system
Do you mean that's the way they come, or that's your preference?
Lots of folks have talked about the benefits of mid length gas on a 16 inch barrel -- though I haven't shot one myself, I was lead to believe that if you ARE using a 16 inch barrel for 3 gun (which should be fine with optics -- MAYBE a disadvantage with irons) then midlength gas is what you want, no?
I think that it is very well known that the 14.5" barrel is best suited for a carbine gas system and the 16" is best suited for a middy gas. From there it's obviously a rifle gas system. A 16" middy will have a softer recoil impulse than a carbine system and an adjustable gas system on a rifle length upper is the bomb. I think I know the differences since I own all of the different combos (and then some
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This thread is making my head hurt
Ejected Cases Hit Head
in Glock
Posted
I started wearing hats every time I shoot after the same thing happened to me. Burning hot brass between your forehead and glasses really sucks