diversmith
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Posts posted by diversmith
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Razorfish....
That's what i thought you might have meant by that. I am planning on keeping the swaging on the loading toolhead and just size and trim on the prep toolhead. Does this sound "right" to you?
Actually, my next purchase is going to be a 550 so I can load my 69gr .223 long range ammo on and maybe some 30-06 down the road now that I have gotten into Garands. Any low volume calibers I will also load on the 550.
I am envisioning prepping a ton of brass on the 1050 once I get that and then I can just grab what I need to load the 69gr stuff on the 550. For now, I have a Hornady trimmer I can use to tide me over,
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The solution is simple... Just get two 1050's. One for Brass Prep and one for loading
Seriously though, it sounds like you answered your own question by mentioning you have a "large" amount of brass. Sounds like you would only have to change the 1050's tool-head out a couple times a year to process brass. Most of time you 1050 would be ready load 223 in smaller batches. If this is the case, I would go for the 1050.
Don't forget a backup swage die for your trim head if you want ultimate convenience
what do you mean by this? Thanks for clarifying for me.
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Thanks for the feedback so far....I could swear I have read online about multiple people using a case prep toolhead on a 1050. I didn't think it would be that big of a deal. The guy at Dillon sort of described the toolhead changeover as being almost a 2 person job because of the resistance of the main spring. Due to the amount of brass I have I would definitely prep a metric shit-ton of brass before moving onto loading so my switches would be once in a blue moon. That's how I do my 9 & 40 on my 650 and it works out well for me will the minimum time wasted.
Please keep any other suggestions coming.
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Howdy all,
Trying to decide on my 1050 set-up. I have a 650 that I load 9 & 40 on and was going to load .223 with but changed my mind. Sold off the .223 stuff for my 650 and my Super Swager. Decided on going the 1050 route just to load 55 gr bulk ammo for 3 gun and practice. I was just bouncing off some ideas of a guy at Dillon whom I know through hunting in Africa. I doubt he would steer me wrong and he says that having a case prep toolhead for a 1050 would be a PITA since he says the toolheads for a 1050 are a total pain to switch out by yourself. He personally recommends that I just use the 650 for case prep and only load on the 1050. I really don't want to have to switch over the 650 to rifle parts (casefeeder parts, shellplate) and would rather only change the 1050 toolhead once in a blue moon (I have more than enough brass and components to do very, very large runs before changing over).
What say the users of the 1050s out there? I appreciate any honest feedback ot recommendations that you offer up.
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I started with 9mm on my Dad's old RCBS JR single stage, loaded a few hundred rounds and then ordered up a bells and whistles 650. Got everything set up pretty quick and started producing perfect ammo. I watched a couple of youtube videos, read a bunch on reloading forums and it was easy peasy. Never got the Dillon DVD though.
I am pretty damn good as far as mechanical aptitude goes so YMMV if you never really turn wrenches or are not a "garage/home improvement" kinda guy.
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I've been using the Dillon stuff in a cookie sheet with a towel under it. I'm new to reloading and haven't tried the hornady one lube but heard it was supposed to be better than the Dillon lube.
Who did you hear that from????
No way One Stuck is better than DCL. Do a little more research on that before you try it for bottleneck brass. It does work great for pistol though.
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I use the 7 round blocks from EGW to check my 9 & 40. If the rounds pass in the EGW blocks they should work in anything from Glocks to tight STIs. Anything that looks questionable I just set aside in a jug for practice time. I gauge everything I load as it gives me one last look to find an issue (high primers, flipped primers, split necks, etc.). Then I know my match ammo is GTG and my practice ammo is also GTG. Days where I am not pressed for time I burn up the "questionable" stuff so if I do have issues, it's no big deal, time-wise.
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I started using One Snot on pistol brass and noticed a big difference in effort and smoothness. I originally bought it for rifle brass sizing but almost immediately got a stuck case. So did my bro-in-law. Went to Dillon lube for rifle and figured i would just use the One Snot for pistol only. Got a decent size plastic tub from the .99 cent store and just hit the pistol cases with a very light dusting of the One Snot...works great.
There is a reason why the nickname "One Stuck" came about when using it on bottleneck cases!!!!
DCL for rifle
One Snot for pistol
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I scrap Amerc and S&B....heard too many bad things about those two brands.
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It looks like all the scores are in....did Nils really beat Horner by less than half a %??????
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I used loads of that length out of both my stock barrel and my KKM.
You are likely near max pressure with these loads but I would not have a problem with testing a couple. I would not take them down to 1.125 because that would be a little to far I think.
Loads of what length out of your stock and KKM barrels???
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1.155 will fit nicely in a Glock mag. I do not use TG so I do not know about your charge. PF will be higher but I do not think it will be excessive.
So 1.150 should feed thru the mag fine and should chamber nicely?
Should I try using the KKM barrel instead of the stock Glock?
Thanks for all of the ideas so far
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Ummmmmmm...isn't it illegal to sell your hand loads without an ammo FFL? Even at cost of components??
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I don't use Titegroup nor shoot a 35 but if it were me I'd shorten up a few of your loads to the longest length that will still feed out of your Glock mags and go test fire 'em. Velocity & pressure will be higher but I can't imagine that they be unsafe to shoot. Also, check out a reloading source to see what the max load is for a 180 seated at standard 40 length - usually 1.135 - over your load of Titegroup. That outta give ya someplace to start.
Thanks for the input....
I also have a KKM for both the 35 and the 24. Would these also give a slightly slower velocity and slightly lower pressure than the stock barrels? I know I WON'T be shooting these on a hot day here in Vegas!!!
And I see that 1.135 seems to be "THE" length for the stock Glocks
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I have some prebans that I paid dearly for back in the dreaded ban days. Just not shooting .45 at all these days so I am thinking of thinning the herd a little.
What are prebans worth these days to the guys behind enemy lines? I have both blued and nickel versions
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To make a long story short, I have about 1500 rounds of 1.180-1.190 loaded .40 that I put together on my 650 when I had my Brazos SC. I just sold it and now have this ammo sitting there. I was using PD and IMI 180 grain pills and Titegroup with drops ranging from 4.8-4.9 during random checks.
What are my options now....I have a 35 and a 24 and am wanting to get feedback on what to do with this stuff. It is obviously too long to use in a Glock mag. I loaded them with a light crimp from the Dillon crimp die, so could I change my dies to seat them a little deeper and just touch it again with a light crimp? Is 4.8-4.9 getting a little hot when a 180 grain is seated deeper? These were chronoed out of the 5" barrel just making major at around 950-970FPS-ish
Any advice is appreciated and I obviously would rather not have to pull them all down
What loads are you Glock guys running with TG and 180gr bullets?
What can I do with these?
ETA...what's the absolute longest I can run in Glocks?
Thanks!
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I use the Dillon gauge and most stuff that doesn't pass still fits in my Glock.
Looks like I will be going with another Dillon for .40
My Dillon 9mm gauge is definitely looser than my EGW block and anything that doesn't quite pass in the EGW seems to always pass the Dillon and I just put those into the practice ammo bin so I know they won't bite me in a match. So far those EGW "rejects" that pass the Dillon gauge always run thru the Glocks during practice.
Thanks for all of the feedback!
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Your barrel is the best gauge you will every use. I have a EGW gauge and even if it doesn't fit that gauge. they fit my Glock barrel
+1 why buy a case gauge? You have one called a barrel.
As another poster has mentioned, I would much rather have the convenience of always having a gauge sitting on my bench that is clean, rather than have to get in the safe and pop a dirty barrel out of a dirty gun
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So the Dillon would be a little looser and be more realistic for checking rounds to be run thru a Glock?
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see here:
Interesting reading....thanks!
Sooo....bottom line, which rimless types are compatible? Seems like I am seeing more of the super comp and TJ marked brass with a little of the Armscor stuff in there as well. Do those 3 all run in the same gun?
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Looking to add a single round .40 case gauge to my bench (already have a 7 round EGW block). Which one should I buy if I was looking to check reloads that I set up for my Glocks? Is there any real difference between a Dillon vs a Wilson or some other recommended brand?
I know the EGWs are on the slightly tighter side.
What say you?
Thanks
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Been setting aside different .38 super brass from my range pickups for awhile. I am interested in knowing the differences between all of the different headstamps....i.e. super, super comp...I think some of them are even stamped TJ or something like that. Are they all the same? Or are there subtle differences?
I don't own any guns in this caliber but want to know so I can separate the good brass correctly for trade or sale in the future rather than just scrap it (what a waste if it's good brass)
thanks for the help
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Can't wait to shoot this for the first time!!!
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Been coming across more and more of this stuff in different handgun calibers in my range pick-ups. What is the concensus on this brass? GTG or should it go in the scrap bucket??? ICC=International Cartridge Company
Thanks for the help!
Any value to the standard Dillon press handles?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Is there any value to the standard Dillon ball handles? I have them from my 550 and 650 and will never use them. Does anyone put them on old presses with shorter handles for an "upgrade"?
I would get rid of these if there is a market for them.