lee blackman
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Posts posted by lee blackman
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Folks are starting to figure out how soft the 40 minor is. Buddy of mine compared his 40 minor load in his Trojan to my 9mm load in my Trojan. He was still shooting about 5 or 6 pf over me, and was still considerably softer. I've shot 45 minor on the higher end of the minor spectrum with 200gr SWC's and WST, and it was soft, but nowhere near as soft as that 40 minor was. Also I never tried to work the 45acp down to the lower end of the minor power factor.
Your gonna need a heck of a lot lighter recoil spring to get the gun to cycle reliably. And with the Glock 21, the slide mass is going to probably be the limiting factor. With such a light recoils spring to run, and such a heavy mass its going to cycle very slow. If you can have the slide lightened or buy and aftermarket lightened slide, I'd recommend doing it. Zev Tech is great when it comes to that.
But try running 185gr plated bullets with a faster powder such as N320, N310, or Solo 1000.... See if you can get around 750fps or so (near 140ish pf) and if the gun still cycles. Buy an guide rod where you can use different springs and buy the whole weight range available. Keep them marked. The powder selection seems to make a very significant difference in the feel.
If your just looking for a good sub major load to play with and not really trying to push the limits, a 200gr extreme plated SWC with about 4.0~4.4gr (work with it) of Winchester Super Target is a pretty soft load. No where near as soft as a good 9mm minor load, but way softer than the full power 45 major stuff.
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Key thing to remember SHTF is there isn't warranty service available. And use the general rule one is none and two is one. Buy quality solid built gear, and buy two of everything. Run it, put it thru the paces till something breaks. That way you know what will break.
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Revolvers are about useless, seriously.... Long guns are great, but its kinda hard to hold a cell phone in one hand and your AR or Shotgun in the other.
Get a handgun with a mounted light because most bad stuff happens at night, and nearly all situations demand you have a phone in your hand. Imagine trying to hold someone at gunpoint for 3 or 4 minutes... seriously try it at the range one day, just holding your phone to your ear and the gun on target while your buddy runs the timer.
My recommendation, a striker fire gun, without any manual safety devices, a mounted light of quality make that does not have a strobe or other useless mode, chambered in the biggest cartridge you can handle firing one handed.
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What you have is not a " double feed." What you have is a failure to extract... Failure to extract that happened out of nowhere, didn't happen out of nowhere. It happened because of a loss of extractor tension, and about the right round count, 3000 you said. Thats part of running a 1911 type firearm...
9mm is kinda sensitive about extractor tension to begin with. There are a ton of articles online about extractors. I recommend getting a weigand gauge, test the tension, and add tension. Check tension about every couple thousand rounds, if a duty sidearm make that everytime you clean the gun. The extractor is the one weak point of the 1911 design. Its not something you have to replace every couple thousand round, it just needs to be maintained. Maybe look at replacing after 25 or 30 thousand, just for preventative maintenance.
Personally I recommend EGW extractors. I use Benny Hill at Triangle Shooting Sports, because he does a good job, has fast turn around, and is relatively inexpensive.
Here's a nice article:
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K&M Precision in Tennessee, specialized facility that hosts the annual Gap Grind PRS competition... Hands down first choice.
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Have you looked at the ballistic charts? The real question shouldn't be 6.5creedmore vs 308win... Should be .243win versus 6.5creedmore?
My RPR, I'm pushing a 107gr Nosler CC (.525 BC) just over 2900fps with H4350 powder...
When playing at distance, velocity is king... period.... When choosing a cartridge, you need to look at two things, Ballistic Coef and the Velocity... That is going to determine your trajectory.
Barrel length gets you "burn time" meaning higher velocity. The 6mm and 6.5mm projectiles have very high BC's. It takes a magnum case to get enough powder to push a 30 caliber bullet with a high enough BC to get to range what a 6mm or 6.5mm can do in a standard short action.
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I just learned that lock time isn't only effected by bolt mass.... long story aside, the actual gas system length effects how long it takes before gas hits your bolt. The longer the gas system the longer the lock time....
Also adjustable gas, preventing over gassing which can effect bolt velocity and lock time... You want the least amount of gas needed to get the gun to run reliably and repeatable.
Then you bolt+carrier mass and the spring tension behind it... object in motion stays in motion and object at rest stays at rest...
I'm not the best at articulation, so maybe someone can explain it a little better than I just did.
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Honestly, the chassis is a little hinky, would need a little "robusting" improvements if your going to step it up to the magnum game. Ruger did awesome, and I love mine, but its really a cheap rifle. I'd like to see them improve the butt stock and ditch the samson forearm. Maybe use aluminum instead of plastic for the internal "dust cover" behind the bolt. Sure you can buy all that aftermarket..but the guns were like $860 wholesale when they hit the market, and the market spoke and said folks will readily pay 1200 to 1600 for them... I figure at that price point it would be worthwhile to improve.. and there is nothing fun about the buttstock shortening itself in response to recoil as your shoot which has happened to me. It especially wouldn't be fun on a magnum.
They really won with the 6.5creedmore, and making the gun compatible with existing readily available and cheap Magpul AR10 mags. Folks are finally wising up to ballistic coef and velocity instead of "well the military shoots the 308..."
My pitch other than improving the chassis is the chamberings... 300wm is a no brainer.... Make the barrel long enough for good burn time for velocity, with a fast twist for 220-240gr projectiles. But profiled to keep the gun light. Use existing AI mag profile, but maybe make an affordable "Ruger" one. But maybe go bigger.. With the growing popularity of the 338lapua, I really think Ruger would win making a slighter bigger chassis for it. Competing directly with Savage and that ugly monstrosity they put out in their chassis. Maybe consider a smaller chassis with AR magazine compatibility... a long barreled 223rem, 204ruger.... Hell maybe a shorter lighter barreled 300blk out oriented for potential suppression and subsonic rounds.
If they really wanted to take the market by storm, go all the way an make a .375cheytac for under $2500...... that would just blow my mind!
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I'm seeing the older X5's show up on gun broker sell fast, but sell for considerably lower than the newer enhanced ones. I've been watching them on gun broker. There are plenty of new old stock non-enhanced models listed for high, but they've been on there a while and none of them are moving.
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Lego's, Transformers, GI Joe, He-Man, Starwars, Robotech, Mirco Machines...
Wow, hard to believe I can remember before cell phones and internet barely... I mean I was born in 81... sooo earliest I can kinda remember back to around 85ish
Answering machines with cassette tapes in them on home phone lines..... Cordless home phones with the telescoping antennas that broke off and made pretend light sabers...
Those yellow hot wheels track that you and your buddies fought with, then getting whooped by mom with later for breaking off that telescoping antenna on the cordless phone...
Cars were cheaply built and ugly as all get out... boxes with wheels, and sport bikes had the ugly monolight... Still 2 cycle motors on bikes too..
3 Channels on TV, and I think cable had about 20...
Not gonna lie, I would have preferred being a 90's baby myself... from what I remember the 80's pretty much sucked.... hahahaha
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Cigarettes, Trucker Hats, and Aviator Sunglasses... And those shorts with the knee high socks! I think I even saw someone wearing some gargoyles sunglasses, man I wanna find a pair of those...
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Are you shooting USPSA or IDPA or both or something else?
Consider the STI Trojan?
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The physics are pretty simple, and you answered your own question. You need to increase the lock time to allow the case material to retract while in the chamber. Increase the recoil spring weight until you get reliability, start at least around 13 pounds. You've already maxed out extractor tension, don't focus there, in fact you shouldn't need anything other than factory spec spring and extractor. The hotter your loads go, the more recoil spring weight your going to need to keep that same lock time.
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Go to VV 3n38 and don't look back... Unless your shooting 9Major, then give Autocomp or AA #7 a try, either of which are WAAAAAY better than 4756.
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Zeiss, makes one... just got mine.
Where did you find that Zeiss Victory V8 1.1-8x? Whats the street price on those?
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Soooooo your options are flintlock or percussion?
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Don't squat with your spurs on... and don't drink down stream of the herd.
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Welcome to Texas
That said, shooting hog here is an eradication effort. Please come and kill as many as you can. You can shoot them with anything that will kill them, up to an including sharp sticks, rocks, twin particle phalanx.....You ain't got to be fancy, regular old cheap 223rem wolf or tula works fine within reason. That Remington Hog Hammer with the barnes TSX bullets is nice, maybe does a little better, but expensive per shot. But if you wanna get a little more reach without stepping up to a bigger gun, that little 6.5grendel will probably fit the bill.
Hope ya have an AWESOME time
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Anyone ever try a PRI Quiet Comp?
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Try accurate #7, auto comp, or maybe HS-6....
Last time I ran 90gr XTP's, I was using vv N320, then AA#2 when I ran out of N320. It wasn't ported, but gosh was it fast.
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Just out of curiosity, I was wondering if anyone here currently runs/has run a .357 SIG pistol in the Open Division? I've been doing some reading and have recently been considering abandoning my plans of making an M&P Open pistol and instead picking up a G31 to build up. My big requirement is that I want to be able to buy ammo off the shelf at my local stores (.357 SIG always seems to be on the shelves of the ones nearby). It seems factory .357 would make Major PF, create enough gas to work a comp, and at the very least not have any capacity less than the .40 Open shooters. Plus, going with .357 SIG helps to satisfy that little itch in the back of my mind that just keeps repeating "Do something a little different, a little unique..."
Anyone have any thoughts?
I think your going to be disappointed if you think a factory 357 round is going to run a compensator efficiently. And the one ammo you find that does probably won't be the cheapest. And being unique and different isn't always a good thing. There is a reason you really don't see a lot of open shooters running Glock or M&P builds. Frankly, you just can get the same performance. The reason folks run 2011 platforms in 38 super, 38c, 9Major, 9x23, etc.. is because it is the best platform out there. Open division is not a save money and have fun shooting division, that one is called production. Open division is about doing anything that gives you an edge, to get that next shot on target faster than the other guy. Effective compensation with appropriate powders, short light trigger pulls with short resets, maximum capacity within allowed magazine length, perfect balance and weight placement for control.
I started out open division with an STI Steelmaster. That gun would run anything off the shelf, even sub-minor ammo. But I learned that no matter what, you couldn't get the same effective use of the comp until you hand loaded with a powder that actually worked the comp. And then you have to work the load up and down till you find that sweet spot where is pushes the gun straight back, recovers right to the trigger break point, and allows you to track the dot during the recoil cycle. And the only way to achieve that optimality is hand loading... plus it saves a butt ton of money. And you know I loved that steelmaster when I was in C class. But then when I moved to B, I realized how much hit factor I was loosing by running minor. And I stepped up to a big boy gun in 9 major. Then I realized I had so many more powder choices, and so much more room to put that powder in a 38 super gun.
My point in the whole thing was, I kinda was thinking the same thing when I started out. I didn't want what everyone else had, wanted to be unique. But I never asked why those folks have what they have. In fact having a super fancy open gun to begin with makes you "different" because those guns are very special. You don't see them every day. In fact I've been to many gun shows, and not once seen a solid race gun. Technically anything that doesn't fit into another division falls into Open, but I mean an honest built race gun formula 1 of shooters open gun. When I got my SVI, my shooting buddies who weren't USPSA shooters were in awe, but then like "Why did you spend so much money on that..." And then I let them shoot it, they got into USPSA, and now all want one. Then I got an Akai. And now I'm a junky who keeps spending money on open guns, and all of them are either broke or having something done to them because I broke them, wore something out, or wanted to change something to see if I could tweak another .01 second from my split time with that gun....
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I think the Surefire Warden may be something that may fit the bill more than the Noveske KX3.
I put a KX3 on the end of a 16" carbine gas system AR. It was heavy.... On the other hand it really did direct the blast forward, and was less concussive for whoever was behind the trigger. But I swear it also added more rearward push. It looked darn good, but the weight got annoying. I ended up pulling it and replacing it with a real comp and haven't looked back.
I could be mistaken, but I believe the KX3 was originally designed for the 13.7" noveske infidel barrel. Something that was short, heavy profile, but didn't have much barrel ahead of the gas port.
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You have way to many alphas.... Go faster....
Here's the math....
One alpha per second at minor = 5.0 hf
vs
Two charlie per second at major = 8.0 hf
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Are you talking about using a 3 pound striker spring? Um well yea, your not going to ignite anything with that... Try using only federal small pistol primers, and maybe step up to a 4 or 4.5 pound striker spring...
You could try using an extended and lightened aftermarket striker in combination with a lighter striker spring, but the key thing is using the softest primers on the market, IE Federal Small Pistol...
That said, shooting hog here is an eradication effort. Please come and kill as many as you can. You can shoot them with anything that will kill them, up to an including sharp sticks, rocks, twin particle phalanx.....
Need help on new gun purchase
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
If your just shooting for fun, and working with a limited budget, the Glock is a great platform. You can run limited, or take your magwell off and download some 40 minor ammo to run production. You can cross over to IDPA with it if your into that. Your gonna put money into sights, and trigger stuff (all you really need is a reduced power striker spring)
The thing is, if your a competitive person, and you really get into it, your going to end up buying a 2011 anyway. Actually you'll end up buying two. And spending a ton of money on reloading stuff, and ammo components, and traveling to big matches. And you'll love every minute of it. My advice, save the money, buy an STI edge new or used, and start playing. Don't try to cheap out, it just ends up costing money later.
If you just wanna have fun, and don't plan on becoming obsessed, spending countless hours dry firing in front of the TV and watching videos of yourself to see how you can run more efficiently, then stay with the Glock. The great thing about a Glock is, they work, and you don't have to do much to them. Throw a set of dawson sights on it, drop a reduced power striker and plunger spring in it, a mag well, and your in the game. Magazines are plentiful and cheap, easy to get along with division legal base pads. And you don't have to worry about stuff like extractors loosing tension, and learning how to tune it yourself, and all the wonderful stuff that comes along with running 1911 base platforms.