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lee blackman

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Posts posted by lee blackman

  1. I think if ghost just put a small but strong magnet to help with retention, it would greatly improve the design.  I really like the Ghost, but if you run a heavy metal grip with a 170mm big stick, it rolls back and the dust cover doesn't contact the holster anymore, kinda freaks me out.

  2. DAA makes some awesome products, but drive me nuts with their undersized ball joints.  They have some really good looking stuff, but man, if you don't lock tight the heck out of it, it always comes loose.  I really wish Saul would consider going a little more robust with his stuff.  Bigger screws, bigger balls, bigger is better.

  3. Anyone hear anything about this?  Bertram is great brass, but its like over 4 bucks a case, Peterson brass in my prior experience is about like cheap surplus nato brass quality but is like 2 and some change a case.  Cheytac went up on their .375ct 350gr loaded ammo from 6.50 a shot to 7 a shot.  My wife was trying to be nice and ordered me a 20 round box for my birthday, it never shipped so she called to ask and the guy told her they just changed to Peterson brass and it should ship out by the end of the week.  Needless to say I requested a refund rather than take chance.

     

    Does anyone else have more recent experience with Peterson brass?  Are they a better quality product than they were say 2 years ago?  I mean run out on case neck thickness used to be worse than  a bag full of random range pickup, but that was with the .308win brass, I never tried their cheytac stuff before.  Is cheytac going cheap, or is there something else I don't know?

  4. On 2/17/2017 at 8:04 PM, tyler2you said:

    I run a 115 gr JHP with 9.6 gr of HS-6 at 1.240 OAL (38 SC).

     

    Check your comp carefully for any signs of bullets hitting it.  A tiny impact can cause the symptoms you're describing.

     

     

    Thats funny, I run the exact same load in my STI Grandmaster and Trubor...   

  5. Is your slide going all the way into battery?  Pencil test is a solid way to get a feel for ignition strength, but if there is no evidence of a primer strike to begin with, then there isn't a point in all that.  Typically I leave my firing pin channel clean and dry.  I also clip a few coils off the firing pin spring.  But all that asside, replace your firing pin.  Its good to have a spare around anyway, they aren't expensive.  Just replace it, and see what happens, go from there.

  6. 1 hour ago, sstephns said:

    My wife started me on this bad habit with a small desktop humidor. I hate that I now have two full humidors at over 100 cigars and that I never have enough time to smoke them. I also hate making the decision on which to smoke. I also hate the winter because I smoke less cigars. Thankfully it's warm in South Carolina right now, warm enough for one tonight.

     

    Man I have the opposite problem, I have two empty humidors I can't ever seem to keep full.   But then again, its south east Texas.  Winters down here are like jeans and a t-shirt, with an occasional couple of days where you actually wear a coat.  Heck most of my childhood, I thought snow was just some fake BS they made up on TV....  Nope, went up north once, that stuff is cold, and wet, and sucks....  But hey, almost every day is a cigar day down here :)

  7. I gotta throw my 2 cents in....  I'm a big 10mm nut.  I've got three Glocks (including a 40 MOS) in 10mm and an IAI Javelina.  I've been playing with the cartridge for probably a decade now.  Pet load, AA#9 (work it up, I'm not taking liability), 180gr MG JHP, Starline Brass, CCI Primer.

     

    I'm gonna throw two pieced of advice.  First the Glock 29's slide lock time is way short, and this is the reason your going to get buldge with heavy loads, pretty much no matter what. (Armscor doesn't count as heavy, it just has sucky brass period) You just have to accept that.  You'll probably find that winchester or federal 10mm won't buldge, but its basically just the same as 40sw. Winchester being the hotter of the two. Just remember the model 29 is a compromise for concealment purposes, and it will take the abuse but if you put full power loads over a chrono, don't freak out when you see the extreme spread.  Its scary....  But thats normal for that particular gun.

     

    I found that you won't have the same problem of brass bulge and full power loads with the full size model 20 as long as your running a nice heavy recoil spring.  I've had zero problems with full power double tap or buffalo bore in the model 40 with the stock spring, been able to reload it too. But its slide is a brick.

     

    Second of the two things....  order some starline brass, work up practice reloads where your not pushing the brass and can keep using it.  Yea your basically going to be running a watered down load equivalent to a 40sw, but its practice ammo, and the point is load economy, not beating your gun up.

     

    Double Tap, Buffalo Bore, and Underwood are great ammo makers for 10mm.  As far as I know they are the only ones loading to original norma pressure spec.  The off the shelf stuff you'll find from Remington, Winchester, Federal, etc is all going to be watered down equivalent to a 40sw, because its intended to only penetrate so much ballistic gel after going thru 4 layers of denim and thats it, nothing more.  Yea, basically might as well have gotten a Glock 27 if thats all your ever going to shoot thru it.  Funny thing is, you might find even at the same PF, the Glock 29 will be a little softer than the Glock 27.  In a similar way as 38super is softer than 9major in comparable platforms with same PF.  Something about that case capacity, and powder options.  Anyway, continuing my long diatribe if your actually still reading, cause by now I'd already be looking at the gun porn posted in the open gun section... The point of a 10mm is to deliver more energy down range, also offering better barrier penetration.  Trust me you feel the difference in your hand when you pull the trigger on real 10mm versus watered down common name commercial stuff.  Its basically a magnum cartridge, and if I found myself having to use a handgun to put rounds down range in a gun fight, I hope I'm doing it with a 10mm.  

     

    Armscor sucks BTW, its not even a heavy load, its brass is just that soft.  Might as well buy the blazer aluminum cases stuff if your going that route.  

     

    Here is the funny thing, you can play around with some heavy 200gr and 220gr projectiles, and even pushing them out, they have this weird slow push, feels very similar to 230gr ball ammo in a 45....

     

     

  8. Man, all the Matrix reverse easter eggs... anyone else notice that.  I mean seriously if they bring back the agent "Mr. Anderson..." guy for the third movie, I won't be surprised.

     

    Hahah it was like an advertisement for TTI up in there....   And a public service message that 1911's don't hold enough ammo... and pencils can kill....  rolled up into one film...

     

    Oh, when I saw it there was a guy with tourette's sitting a seat over from me.  I didn't realize it at first, thought he was just being a jerk, but I figured it out, and actually made the movie funnier.  I don't think I could type the stuff that came out of the dudes mouth on here without getting banned, but OMG was it hilarious.   Thats kinda like a once in a lifetime experience right there.  And a "sweep left!" out to him if he ever reads this, come watch a movie with me anytime bro, I'll pay your ticket.

     

    That freakin pencil scene man!  Oh the pencils.....  lol

     

     

  9. Yea if they make the tubes out of anything like 304 grade stainless, its not going to stick.  Only ferrous metals stick to magnets (metals with enough iron content).

     

    You can always solve the problem by running Tula or Monarch steel cased bimetal (steel jacket) ammo ;)  Bwahahaha

  10. Call the instructor at the school....  Ask him and listen.  What you'll find is since they are teaching the class, they are probably the best source for information as far as equipment for the class.  Not only that, but they may have some hookups, like a rifle to borrow so you don't have to buy one.

  11. I've been running one on my SBR for a couple years now, no issues other than the battery life sucks.  Its rolled around the trunk of a patrol car on several occasions, been thrown in dumb barrels, and used to beat a rabid bear to death....  Ok so maybe not used to beat a rabid bear, but needless to say its held up pretty good. Never lost its zero either. 

    SBR.jpg

  12. No one is stating the obvious... CCP was a mistake....   IDPA had the opportunity to introduce Carry Optics...  Look at how awesome its doing in USPSA.  Not only could it have been a crossover division like SSP and Production, but I think it would have brought a lot of new participation and growth.  Not to meantion maybe updated the game to modern fielded gear, I mean my actual work gun is a Glock 35 MOS...  I'm seeing them more and more not just among law enforcement but also concealed carry folks.  The carry optic platform isn't in infancy anymore, its come to fruition, they are practical, functional, proven, and as a sport that is defense oriented, they deserve a division.  Like welcome to 2017...  But then again (facepalm) it is IDPA. :( 

  13. The smartest thing Remington can do with the Para name is come out with an entire new generation of wide bodies, that are STI/SVI magazine compatable.... Seriously, the whole problem with the para's was multiple generations of frames and magazines.  Why not just engineer it around something thats already common within the community your trying to market the product to. 

    If find it funny how the trend now is metal grips on STI and SVI frames... Like Para has that in a one piece deal... they obviously don't have their eyes open to whats going on in their market...

    All they need to do is put two models out, just two, under the para name on a new engineered frame, and some cool slide cuts.  One limited gun in 9mm or 40, and one open gun in 38super or 9major...  It would be game on...  Market that they are compatible with both SVI and STI tubes, etc... Basically compete directly against the DVC line, with similar features.  Maybe one up the limited and go with an island cut slide with sight tracker barrel.  Be really cutting edge and offer them stroked...

    But for some reason, they can't even keep quality control on their existing products like their old Remington 700 (dude seriously its been hit or miss with those for decades) and they are to short sighted to put one out in the 6.5creedmore which is like the most popular growing cartridge out there. Come on guys, like someone needs to smell the fresh coffee.  And hey if your listening Remington reps....  That one's free....  

  14. IMHO not worth the money.  I had it for a year, and it just didn't justify its cost.  I'm about as impressed with it as I am with Midway's birthday discount... (If you didn't know, midway offers discounts on your birthday, but if you log out and look the price is the same, its kinda a scam...)

  15. IMHO if your shooting steel, or actually doing something that just trying to make groups off a bench, don't go overkill with the magnification.  A 2.5-10x, 3-15, 4-16, etc medium zoom range optic or similar magnification range should have you more than covered.  Something with a nice wide field of view, where you can shift along an array of targets, without getting from behind the rifle or breaking cheek weld if possible.  

    Rule of thumb seems to be 1x per every 100 yards...  most of your targets will be 2~4 minutes, and a minute is a minute no matter how far, will always be the same size perspectively. Put a 2 inch circle and a 4 inch circle on paper at 100 yards, play around with magnification.  Shoot a position other than off the bench or prone, where your holding the rifle and need field of view to "hunt for your target" thru the scope.  You'll probably find you like somewhere between 4 and 8 power....  And as you start shooting DMR or Practical Competitions you'll be happy you have that lower magnification range, and you probably will rarely ever use the higher.

  16. 6.5creedmore.... definitely 

     

    You want to hunt small varmint and up to deer, want precision and performance.   Check out the .243win.  Make sure the gunsmith puts a barrel adequate to stabilize heavier projectiles, long enough to get adequate burn time, and your in business.  I mean pushing a 107gr BTHP with a .525 BC at 3000+FPS isn't a joke...  Like 1400+ yard supersonic, laser flat trajectory.  You can run lighter bullets for varmints, or bonded core soft points for game like deer.

    I'd say a GA Tempest Action in a KMW Sentinel Stock with a 27" medium palma contour Bartlein or Hawk Hill Marksman contour barrel, throw a Vortex Razor HD II 4.5-27x scope on it, and you can do everything from PRS competition, to prairie dog exploding, to deer dropping, to just plain showing off...

     

  17. As far as MOA, put it this way, estimate your going to be around 12~14 minutes of drop at the 500 yard line.  The scope will have 86 minutes of travel with 30 minutes of reticle under the center line of 40 if you dope zero on the top hash instead of the center.  So yea... don't think your going to have a problem with enough elevation... even in a worse case scenario you'll have an easy 15 minutes of adjustment more than you need, not including reticle hold over.  No need for a 15, 20, or more canted base...  

     

    I picked up a 700 SBS Tactical .308win when they first hit the market.  I was super dissatisfied with the junk Hogue stock, and lack of accuracy, not to mention the junk x-pro trigger that came on it.  I mean it was a minute gun off the bench, but POI/POA shifts were horrible because of that stock.   So it sat in the safe for a while.  I picked up an HS Precision stock with Badger DBM bottom metal used right here off BEno's forum.  Having a good gunsmith bedding the action, installing a BO bolt knob, and replacing the trigger. I'm planning on a Vortex PST FFP 2.5-10x on it, using a standard no MOA leupold base and rings.  With the 1 in 12 twist 20" barrel I don't plan on trying to send any 185r juggernauts to the 1000 yard line. I got other rifles for that.  But I am thinking 155.5 berger full bores, it will make a fun little plate ringer within its capability. Maybe 165GMX for hunting...  I figure unless your just trying to make groups on the 100 yard line off the bench, a 6-24 is really over magnified.  FFP is more important because I like to run low power for speed to target and field of view, plus I rather hold over than dial.  If you plan on hunting, I really think you'll like the 2.5-10 better than the 6-24 for the same reason. IMHO

  18. I've got more expensive rifles, so when I picked up my RPR .243win I wasn't planning on dumping a bunch of money into the glass.  Soo, I bought a Vortex FFP PST 6-24 with the EBR2C reticle, attached it with a JP mount... Wholly crap, I was pretty impressed.   Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to take the rig to a PRS match.  

    The whole rig, running 107gr Nosler BTHP pushing 2910fps with H4350, grouping under a dime at the 100 yard line.  I went straight to steel at my local range which goes to 500 yards.  Never touched the dial, just held over on the reticle. The glass is pretty amazing, and the EBR2C reticle is the bee's knee's.  No problem smacking golf balls at 200 yards, or bowling pins at 500 either...  

     

    IMHO, the RPR is a budget gun that gives you a whole lot more bank for the buck than anything I've seen in forever.  The Vortex FFP PST 6-24 is the exact same thing bang for the buck.  They naturally just pair up.  Like if you have more money for better glass, then your probably in the realm of shopping for and having the ability to get a custom built rifle, which I'd recommend.

     

  19. I went with an Aero 10.5" upper M4E1 upper on my SBR, pretty happy with it too.  I slapped it together on a budget build, and it eats as much tula, wolf, and monarch as I can feed it, and I just can't seem to shoot the CQC coat out.  IMHO, stuffs better than hard chrome.  Its 4150 CrMo steel, so you get like another 200 degrees melting point over typical 4140...  The accuracy speaks for itself.  And it was like $350...

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