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Mat Price

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Posts posted by Mat Price

  1. Mat, I have never used Lee equipment......so I don't know if it is a brass problem or a priming system problem. I would take some of the offending brass and try and prime them on other equipment and see if it is the brass. If you have been priming other brass and had no problems, and now have problems with this brass then it probably needs to be redone.

    DougC

    This is the first brass in 6 years i have not been able to prime with that lee tool. on the other hand this is the first military i have ever tried to prime with that tool also. I think the biggest issue is that since the primer pocket is somewhat off center in realtion to hand tool the primer is not able to line up correctly. after removing a little bit of material with my chamfer i can seat them fairly easily. however i am afraid I may remove to much material and end up blowin out a primer. Thnks for the help doug.

    Pj these remington stock 5 round mags seem to be a little deeper than after market mags. I dont own any high cap mags and to be honest alot of my loads are "one at a timers anyway" and jmurch i single stage also. I am still saving pennies for a 550. I still even load 9mm and 40 s&W on the good old faithful rock chucker.

    well i am off to pick up the super swage I figure wth? i can get what ever i want now process myself and i know its done right.

  2. Mat, with the OAL....make sure that it will fit in the magazine. That is your limiting factor. As you probably have read in the other rifle posts, crimp or not to crimp. In the ARs....I apply a light crimp with a Lee die. Good luck, go slow, make sure when you load the first couple of rounds they will feed from the magazine and EXTRACT easily. If you didnt resize the case properly, you will have problems pulling the case out.

    Good luck,

    DougC

    thanks doug. The oal is cool with my mag they load and eject fine. I haven't been putting a crimp on my loads that I have i have done with production brass but i a may start. what i am dealing with now though is this 100% processed brass is not even close.i am having seriuos issues getting this lake city once fired brass primed with my lee auto prime they dont want to seat most of them go in crooked or smash. they were processed on a dillon 1050 I saw the man running it when i picked it up. I have had to chuck my chamfer tool in my drill to get the ones i could seat in. here is a pic is it the brass.

    photo7-2.jpg

    I am getting a dillon super swage today yall think that will fix this brass up ?

  3. today I bought some Lake city once fired .223 that was processed on a 1050. If you can see in the pictures some of the crimp on one side of the brass is still present and causeing my lee auto prime hand held a seriuos head ache. I have had to break out the drill and chamfer tool to get many of the primers to seat. Is this normal of the 1050 or can I take this to brass to a buddy who has one to process it again maybe the guy i got it from had something not set up right or wasnt paying close enough attention to the press?

    photo7.jpgIn this pic you can see screen side left a good bit of the crimp left this caused a primer to seat sideways.

    photo8.jpg

  4. Hey guys I have never loaded military brass before I got 1000 pieces of lake city processed at a real good price. ( primer pockets swaged on 1050 dillon) Is this a good safe load to start with. I am not sure about figuring the reduced volume of the mill brass.

    to be shot out of remington r-15 vrt 22 inch barrel 1-9 twist

    69 sierra MK HPBT Hodgdon Varget 23.3gr 2.260 OAL ( this is the Sierra recommend starting load BTW)

    Mat

  5. sorry grump I am using an rcbs rock chucker right now( single stage press, I only load F/class rifle shells right now).I am slowly getting into action pistol and Saving my pennies for a dillon 550B.

    So basically I am just unflaring the expander step ?

    also how can I tell if i got it right? cycle a round through my chamber?

    Yes, you are just taking out the bell/flair in the expander step. Remember, auto pistol rounds headspace on the case mouth as there usually is no rim. So, if you crimp too much, the case will slide into the barrel past the headspace area and lock it up.

    Use you calipers/micrometer to measure the crimp as close to the bullet as you can get...For a 40 S&W, I think it should be around .421 or so, but check on that. I usually don't even measure the crimp anymore, for me, it's more of a sight thing...look at it, see if it needs more or less. If more, then tighten the die down just a bit, if less, then loosen it. Start with it very loose, and slowly tighten it up, until all the flair/bell is removed, then lock it down. And then cycle a round through your chamber.

    What are you gonna be shooting these in? Stock barrel?

    BTW, I load on a 550.... :cheers:

    Thanks grump! I was sucessfull in producing a dummy round that was at the oal I wanted and chambered and ejected from my xd-40! soo I reckon its time to powder and and prime!

  6. sorry grump I am using an rcbs rock chucker right now( single stage press, I only load F/class rifle shells right now).I am slowly getting into action pistol and Saving my pennies for a dillon 550B.

    So basically I am just unflaring the expander step ?

    also how can I tell if i got it right? cycle a round through my chamber?

    Yes, you are just taking out the bell/flair in the expander step. Remember, auto pistol rounds headspace on the case mouth as there usually is no rim. So, if you crimp too much, the case will slide into the barrel past the headspace area and lock it up.

    Use you calipers/micrometer to measure the crimp as close to the bullet as you can get...For a 40 S&W, I think it should be around .421 or so, but check on that. I usually don't even measure the crimp anymore, for me, it's more of a sight thing...look at it, see if it needs more or less. If more, then tighten the die down just a bit, if less, then loosen it. Start with it very loose, and slowly tighten it up, until all the flair/bell is removed, then lock it down. And then cycle a round through your chamber.

    What are you gonna be shooting these in? Stock barrel?

    BTW, I load on a 550.... :cheers:

    yep stock barrel on an xd 40 tac model. I am loading 9mm for my glock 17 for production class and using my xd in the limited 10 class

  7. sorry grump I am using an rcbs rock chucker right now( single stage press, I only load F/class rifle shells right now).I am slowly getting into action pistol and Saving my pennies for a dillon 550B.

    So basically I am just unflaring the expander step ?

    also how can I tell if i got it right? cycle a round through my chamber?

  8. Hey guys this is the first time I am loading pistol. I load 100% rifle. I got a 3 die rcbs set and I want to load some 40 s&w. I am just a tad confused on the whole taper crimp thing can someone point me to a good link that explains how to do this step. Also with the carbide sizing die, drop the handle full extension and just barely kiss the shell holder with the die mouth right? dont cam over like on rifle sizing dies is this the way its done?

    Mat

  9. Hi guys I need some help working up a load for production using a 180grn jhp zero

    Thiking of using wst powder since i can get it real easy.

    was thinking of starting with cci primers 4.2 grn wst and 1.125 oal hows that sound?

    I was also thinking of using the hornady 180 grn HAP and auto comp powder.

    the gun is a xd-40 with a stock spring thanks.

  10. I am green with envy. You have inspired me!!! I am going to move Eddie's cage (Ball Python) to the other side of room. Actually.... need to get a bigger one or construct one. And that leaves me about 10ft of brick wall to attach to.... Just built a bench when I built my man-room, but looks like I have way outgrown it already. And like I said.... I'm have bench envy. lol

    Current Bench...

    Thanks man it took me about 4 hours to finish and even with the 2x6 top everything was less than 200 bucks. BTW if eddie has reached his adult length he might be more comfortable in a 55 gal. Or a 5x3 with a glass front. they are real easy to make. The one thing I need to add looking at yours is a fridge!

  11. I bring to you the ultimate man work/reloading bench! Constructed with a 2x4 pine frame using stringer fasteners and a solid 2x6 bench top with peg board back and 3/4 upper shelf and 4 foot work lamp. this thing is 8 feet wide and 32 inches deep.

    Cool extra features.

    Bose sound system integrated in shelf's

    Lap top stand and under bench printer for charting loads, ballistics ect...

    But the best part with can't be seen is the 2x6 frame behind the peg board witch just happens to fit a wall mount for 18 inch flat screen TV thats right Bose sound and 18 inch LED screen right on the peg board. This screen attaches nicely to a tower computer that has built in sat/tv tuner dvr.

    45698_422240134374_525799374_4477768_1045980_n.jpg

    40201_422180884374_525799374_4476263_7021784_n.jpg

    bench photos

  12. Saturday I shot my 2nd local match, which would be the third match overall since early July. This one was a whole bunch better. I don't mean my overall finish, which was better, but that everything just felt smoother and faster and more comfortable. Boy, did that Warren Tactical Glock Fiber Optic Sight set make a difference! I actually remember seeing the front sight on most of my shots. There were still some brain (trigger?) farts, but they somehow did not fell as bad. I guess the best way to put it is that I didn't fell as near to lost as I felt the first two times. This whole practical shooting thing just keeps gettin' more and more fun. My fifth stage wan't near as well done as the other four, but I am tickled overall. I wish I had started this about thirty years ago.

    Hi were was the match? I live in waveland and am looking to learn and join a club.

    Mat

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