blueorb
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Posts posted by blueorb
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I will go ahead and give the class and try. Hopefully, I will come back here and post a review.
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I am planning on taking a class next month with Steve Anderson and would like to know if anyone has 1) taken the class and 2) have any feed back they would like to leave (both positive and/or negative)? It's not cheap so I am trying to see what others opinions are so that I can decide if I want to invest in the class.
The class is a two day class and is limited to only 8 people so I'm hoping a decent amount of one on one instruction will be had.This is the official description. It specifically states that this isn't a beginner handgun class that participants should have competition experience or at least advanced handgun skills.
"The two-day class will include working on dry fire and live fire techniques, holster draws, reloads, and other USPSA "Qualifier" techniques. It will ALSO cover move and shoot techniques, mental preparation and preventing "brain farts", shot calling, stage visualization and other field course techniques. "
Thanks,
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Regarding the new classifier 13-01; I have seen several scores now for this one. 3 M class shooters (one is almost a GM sitting at 94.6%), a B class shooter and a few more. Highest I've see so far is 6.8, my 6.64, a 6.63 and a 6.4. Times were a low of 7.03 up to a 8.14. Those seem like conservative times.
I have a feeling the HHF for this one is going to anywhere from 7.5 up to 8.2 or so. Most likely closer to the higher end. Just a wild guestimation. Anyone else shot this one and want to share your times?
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It always tends to be the same 5 or 6 people that show up early willing to set up. One of our clubs allows stage builders to shoot for free and helpers get a discount.
One thing I know that keeps some people from helping is difficulty with an actual stage design; either they don't know here to get designs, are too lazy to get them or are not confident enough to choose one on their own. One thing that seems to help is the MD providing the stage design for the prospective builder.
There really isn't a lot that can be done. I really like the idea of a random drawing just for stage builders. Every time you show up to set up a stage you get one "pull" at a random prize. Something like that.
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Truly, one of the most ill conceived rules ever. The reload was one of the few freedoms that were allowed in IDPA. Now they have taken that away. IDPA is now a mindless game of "follow the leader". Everyone is told how/when/where for every aspect of a stage. Like cows to a slaughter house.
Didn't renew my membership this year. Don't see that happening anytime in the near future either.
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Anyone know when HHF's will be created for these new classifiers? They still aren't listed on the classifier calc that I use.
We shot 13-01 today. I shot:
Time: 7.83
Pts: 52
HF: 6.6411
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Shannon, you're not too far from me. If you ever wanted to take some time to learn, I'd be willing to lend a hand. I've had my SP01 down to a pile of parts a number of times. It's intimidating as hell, but once you do it, it's not that hard. It helps having internet and video nearby for reference. The hardest part is remembering the order things go back in ( ie: hammer pin detent BEFORE left side safety detent and spring...i think i screw that one up every time! )
Anyway, let me know if you are interested. I'm busy the next couple of weeks but after that, I"m pretty free.
Glenn, I really appreciate the offer. I will take you up on that. PM incoming...
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Would love to but that is a long ways from me.
Well, if I try and do this, is there anything in particular that I need to be worried about/pay attention to?
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I have never disassembled my 75
That's your problem right there
I would completely strip the whole pistol, clean everything spotless, then polish everything and put it back together again with some Slide Guide
I found some 3000 grit sand paper at the auto parts store which spongy so it gets into all the little spots and works bitchin'! (plus it's impossible to take off too much metal)
Lol, I am not exactly mechanically inclined. And it appears that the CZ is one of the more difficult pistols to work on. I would really need a full detailed write up on how to disassemble/reassemble. Anyone know of a very thorough one? With pictures preferrably? LOL..
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truthfully I hate break cleaner, cause it strips oil from every where.
make sure oil in hammer, sear, sear spring, hammer spring, hammer strut.
let me know if any relief.
Well, I think I will stop using the break cleaner. I have field stripped and reoiled everywhere I could. The trigger return squeak is now gone. It's quiet and smooth again. I am still getting the squeak on the trigger pull. The squeaking is coming from the rear of the gun. Something in the hammer, sear-cage, etc area.
If it helps any...it only squeaks when I let the trigger go gull forward to reset. If I pull the trigger and pull again before it fully resets it does not squeak at all.
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one of my 75's is somewhat prone to getting rougher as it gets dirty. it seemed to be between the trigger bar and the frame, so I took it apart and polished the outside of the trigger bar lightly (mine is pretty roughly finished), and also cleaned everything up. brake cleaner might work if you are averse to the idea of disassembling the gun. You have to remove the safeties and sear-cage assembly and trigger pin to get to the trigger bar. That's an easy job if you have a cgw trigger pin.
I have never disassembled my 75 and am really reluctant to do so without someone around to fix any screw ups. Will pay attention to the trigger bar though. Thanks.
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squeaky wheel gets the oil.
sorry..got oil/grease on the trigger return spring? oil there, oil the trigger bar spring.
Hey Stuart. I actually sent you an email as well. Yes, I just cleaned the gun and, when reassembling, I made sure to oil trigger return spring and trigger bar spring.
I'd blow out the internals with brake cleaner, apply some oil, and try again.
This is my very cleaning routine. I blast with break cleaner, clean and then oil. Will try again...
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Ok, thanks. I sent an email to Stuart. Hopefully, this is something that I can fix as I don't have a back up gun.
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Hi all.
I have a CZ 75 with CZC's short reset trigger system. I ordered the gun directly from CZC with the work done in their shop (ie...this is not a home gunsmithing job gone bad).
Lately, my trigger has been making a lot of squeaky noises on both the trigger pull and return. It actually is developing a gritty feel as well. It certainly did not have a squeak or feel gritty when I received the gun. The gun probably has around 2000 rounds through it.
Is this at all normal? Any way to rectify this? Video is below. Might want to turn your volume up.
[yt]
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You can decap a case with a live primer and put that primer into a different case. Theoretically, the primer could "go off" while you try doing this first step...which is why, IIRC, Dillon's instructions say not to try it.
That is correct. However, if I followed Dillon's advice I would waste a ton of primers.
All I do is pull the bullet and dump the powder. I then place the brass in stage 1 and very carefully "deprime". I only go until I feel the little snap that indicates the primer is free. I then retrieve the still good primer and reuse it. Have never had a problem doing it that way. With primers being so hard to find I just can't afford to waste all those primers.
I usually wait until I have about 10 or so bad cartridges and them pull/deprime them all at once. It actually takes longer to pull the bullets than it does to deprime for the good primers.
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Update of sorts...
I shot a match this weekend. I really tried to incorporate all of the advice that was given to me in this thread. Most importantly, I shot 93.4% of available points.
For the most part I did a little better in staying crouched and in a ready shooting position. I really tried to have my gun up and ready to shoot when entering positions. During the match I felt like I did a really good job of it. However, after watching the video, there several instances where I still did not have my gun up and ready to shoot. However, I did better than at the NC sectional.
Another big point for me was my shooting steel. Disregard stage 2 which was a steel speed shoot. I was terrible on that stage. The rest of the match had at least 15 pieces of steel. Except for one popper (on stage 3) I went one for one on the steel. I had really good sight picture and focused on not rushing.
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Here are four primary time wasters that I see.....
(1) You spend a lot of time during the draw with your hand on the gun while its still in the holster. As soon as your strong hand touches the grip the gun should be coming out of the holster.
(2) You stand up into an almost locked knee stance every time you stop in a shooting position. Standing up after getting into the shooting position wastes time by needing to finish standing up before you can start shooting and wastes time when you want to exit because you have to drop back down before you can launch out of the position. This costs you at least one second in wasted entering/exiting movement for every shooting position. Enter the shooting positions low and stay low.
(3) Your gun is not up and ready to shoot before you enter the shooting position. You get into the shooting position then bring the gun up and start shooting. This costs you at least half a second every time you enter a shooting position and then bring the gun up to shoot. Have the gun up and ready to start shooting at lease a step away from the final shooting position. This will allow you to start shooting as soon as possible.
(4) Not shooting steel one for one is a huge waste of time. Every time you miss a piece of steal it costs you at least half a second in stage time. If you partially transition off of the steel miss then go back for it that costs even more time. Taking a little extra time to aim hard on the steel may seem like its slow, but its way faster than making up misses.
As always its a Death by a thousand small cuts........ Start eliminating the small cuts and your match day performance will improve.
Thank you for the feedback.
1) Unfortunately, this is by design for the time being. I was finding myself really rushing my draw and I was not getting a good grip and, to make it worse, I would start shooting before fixing my grip. I know my draw is slow. I kind of starting over and hoping to build my speed back up with a proper grip.
2 and 3) I am really trying to correct this. I practice it a lot in live fire practice but I can't seem to break my habit of standing upright. I need to find a specific drill or something that will help reinforce that.
4) I think you nailed it when you said " Taking a little extra time to aim hard on the steel may seem like its slow, but its way faster than making up misses". I just seem to always rush the steel. I am working on that.
Again, thanks for the feedback.
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Stage #1, I think where the X's were located, going right 1st was a slight advantage in distance traveled. Also, I liked going from the higher port to the lower port,instaed of the opposite, low up to high.Great reloads, other than the pull off or rush on steel, looked like a solid match.
Thanks for the feedback.
I agree, after watching my video compared with others video of the same match, I definitely should have gone right on stage 1 instead of the way I shot it. My sole reason for going left first was so that I could reload going right. Not sure why I thought that would matter on such a tiny stage. Lesson learned there.
Steel is such a strange thing. At steel challenge matches I tend to do very well at getting one for one hits. But in USPSA matches, it appears I rush too much. Has been a thorn in my side for a while now.
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I shot the NC Sectional this past weekend. I just got bumped to master so this was my first match with that classification. My finish was rather disappointing. I finished 13th overall, 8th Master.
My goal going into this match was to be more controlled and to shoot at a pace that allows me to get better hits than normal. I have a bad habit of shooting too fast for my current skill level which causes me to drop way too many points. For the most point, I followed that plan. I did still tank, points wise, 3 or so stages. But, overall I did better with my points (even ran one stage clean with all As).
Couple of notes, pro and con:
1) Reloads - I was very happy with my reloads. I do a ton of dry fire practice and I think it showed.
2) I think I slowed down too much in search of points (this was already mentioned in the thread in the USPSA SHOOTING sub-forum). Even with a lot more points on some stages I still lost to shooters who shot fewer points with faster times.
3) I seem to take a while getting into and leaving position. I need to work on that. A lot.
4) My transitions seemed to be ok. Could be a lot better.
5) I take way too many make up shots on steel. Drives me nuts that I do that.
[yt]
[/yt]Thoughts?
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Not enough info. Gauge check some resized brass before doing anything else to it. If resizing isn't the problem, is it possible your're not seating the bullets quite straight, and so you have side bulges? Thick brass and bullets seated too deep?
Also, have you run a bunch of factory ammo through your gauge to make sure it's not undersized? Do the rounds that fail to gauge drop into your gun's barrel?
What bullets are you having this problem with? What's your finished cartridge neck diameter at the case mouth? i.e. crimping to 0.379" for example.
1) I have gauged resized brass. They all fit perfectly into the gauge. The bullets not seating straight is a distinct possibility. I am loading flat nose Bayou Bullets. Apparently, there are two types of Dillon seating dies...one for round nose and one for flat nose. I am using the round nose (only one I have) since I originally started with Montana Gold bullets. Going to call dillon about the flat nose die and see if that helps.
2) have not even thought about running factory ammo through the gauge. I can't imagine the gauge is undersized though. I still get 3/4 of my rounds to gauge. If it was undersized would I get a much higher reject number? The rounds that don't case gauge don't fall completely into my barrel either. They are as bad as when using the gauge but they still don't fall completely in the barrel.
Another thing I am thinking this could be is that I am not using enough bell/flare. I am noticing a lot of small slivers of bullet around the base of my press. Almost as if, when seating the bullet, the case is shaving a small sliver of bullet off. Not sure if that relates back to the RN/FN die that I am using or the bullets are seating incorrectly...maybe to not enough bell/flare?
Not a clue...
I sure you just mentioned your problem . When you have slivers of lead coming off the bullet you are also craming some extra lead between the case and bullet. You will fix everything with more case bell.
Thanks for the reply. This is on my to do list for tonight. Hopefully, this will help.
The seating stem on your dillon seating die is reversible. One side is for seating round nose, the other for flatter profiles. Take your die apart and find which side of the stem fits your bullet profile best. They are not two separate dies.
Not enough flare is definitely a possibility. The shavings are not normal.
The dies being too small is very unlikely as you said but the lead bullets being oversized is very possible. I'd take some diameter measurements of your bullets.
Lastly too much crimp will bulge the lead and could be the cause of tipped bullets after that process as well as deforming the bullet enough not to case gauge.
All things to check out, if putting the loaded cartridge in the case gauge bullet first, is the first half or the last half that is not gauging? The answer might lead you to the problem.
I was not aware of the die being reversible. Learn something new every day. Thanks for the info.
Also, when putting the cartridge bullet first into the gauge, it is def the last half that is not gauging.
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I am a lowly B shooter who will make A with the next classification cycle so I don't know much. What I do know is that you must be fast to be near or at the top. HOWEVER, you also must be accurate. between the two, I see more fast shooters being beaten by slightly slower shooters than I see accurate shooters being beaten by slightly faster shooters. Here is an example of what I see locally. 160-point stage. Fast shooter runs it in 15.34, 132 pts. with a Mike/no-shoot. Accurate shooter runs it in 17.56, clean, with 153 pts.
Fast shooter = 7.3011 hf. Accurate shooter = 8.7129. In a six-stage match, the fast shooter will beat the accurate shooter on two stages by a small margin but the accurate shooter will be on top by larger margins in four of the six. This is a year-round cycle, 2-4 matches a month, year in and year out. I shoot with the same guys and there are several who fall into both categories. At the end of the day, it is target shooting and you need to score points to win. There are also a handful of local guys who are Damn fast and Damn accurate. Guess what ... they win ALL THE TIME.
I am not sure I completely agree with this. There is definitely a fine line where more points just don't matter. Look at this as an example (from this past weekends NC Sectional):
Stage 9 results. That is me at 4th place with 140 points. Look at me compared to 2nd place GM. I shot 24 more points but was 4.4 sec slower. 24 pts is, IMO, a ton of points. Look at 5th. I shot 14 more pts than him and was only 1 sec slower. I barely beat him. As it turns out, contrary to what is always stated on this forum, I would have been much better off hosing away to drop 2-3 seconds and take far fewer points.
Place Name USPSA Class Points Penalty Time Hit Factor Stg Pts Stage Percent
GM 132 0 17.87 7.3867 140.0000 100.00%
GM 116 0 16.64 6.9712 132.1250 94.38%
M 132 0 19.00 6.9474 131.6740 94.05%
M 140 0 21.18 6.6100 125.2792 89.49%
A 126 0 20.06 6.2812 119.0475 85.03%
Here's another one. That's me in 7th place. Again, quite a few more pts than 2nd and 3rd but 4-5 secs slower. I would have been better off to shave that time off and accept fewer pts.
Place Name USPSA Class Points Penalty Time Hit Factor Stg Pts Stage Percent 1
GM 148 0 21.62 6.8455 160.0000 100.00% 2
M 142 0 22.37 6.3478 148.3672 92.73% 3
GM 144 0 23.33 6.1723 144.2653 90.17% 4
M 156 0 26.02 5.9954 140.1306 87.58% 5
A 150 0 25.44 5.8962 137.8120 86.13% 6
M 152 0 26.39 5.7598 134.6239 84.14% 7
M 156 0 27.38 5.6976 133.1701 83.23%
I went into this match with a mindset to slow down and get more points (I tend to try and shoot way too fast for my skill level and drop a lot of points). For the most part I did that but still crapped a few stages which killed me. However, it's obvious that I need to find that fine line of speed and accuracy. I slowed down too much. So much so that even higher points didn't really help me.
Frustrating sport sometimes..
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I run a CZ75 and shoot 147gr Bayou Bullets over 4.1gr of WSF. At the GA sectional last month I was 135.5, At the NC Sectional this past weekend I was 139.
Quite a bit over min PF but I like how it shoots. I get good groups at 25 yrds.
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Not enough info. Gauge check some resized brass before doing anything else to it. If resizing isn't the problem, is it possible your're not seating the bullets quite straight, and so you have side bulges? Thick brass and bullets seated too deep?
Also, have you run a bunch of factory ammo through your gauge to make sure it's not undersized? Do the rounds that fail to gauge drop into your gun's barrel?
What bullets are you having this problem with? What's your finished cartridge neck diameter at the case mouth? i.e. crimping to 0.379" for example.
1) I have gauged resized brass. They all fit perfectly into the gauge. The bullets not seating straight is a distinct possibility. I am loading flat nose Bayou Bullets. Apparently, there are two types of Dillon seating dies...one for round nose and one for flat nose. I am using the round nose (only one I have) since I originally started with Montana Gold bullets. Going to call dillon about the flat nose die and see if that helps.
2) have not even thought about running factory ammo through the gauge. I can't imagine the gauge is undersized though. I still get 3/4 of my rounds to gauge. If it was undersized would I get a much higher reject number? The rounds that don't case gauge don't fall completely into my barrel either. They are as bad as when using the gauge but they still don't fall completely in the barrel.
Another thing I am thinking this could be is that I am not using enough bell/flare. I am noticing a lot of small slivers of bullet around the base of my press. Almost as if, when seating the bullet, the case is shaving a small sliver of bullet off. Not sure if that relates back to the RN/FN die that I am using or the bullets are seating incorrectly...maybe to not enough bell/flare?
Not a clue...
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You've really got to read all of Section 5.7 -- but I can envision some scenarios where the two minute rule would not apply......
5.7.6 Where the handgun has failed after the Start signal, the competitor must not be permitted to reshoot the course of fire or string. This includes the instance where a handgun is declared unserviceable or unsafe during a course of fire or string. However, any unattempted component strings in a Standard Exercise may still be attempted by the affected competitor after the handgun has been repaired, and prior to when match results are declared final by the Match Director.
Typically the shooter is given their two minutes to fix the gun. However, if the RO determines that the gun is not safe to shoot, then he may terminate the course of fire at that point, and declare the gun to be unsafe, in which case no reshoot would be permitted.
As a follow up....I do believe this is exactly what happened. When the broken piece of the slide stop fell out the RO called the stoppage and declared the gun unsafe. I assume the above rule is the one they were looking at in the rule book. The shooter had a back up gun but it was our last stage of the day so his stage was scored as shot.
Thanks all.
2014 USPSA Area 6 Championship - It's Official
in Match Announcements - Pistol Only - USPSA, IPSC & Misc.
Posted
Just tried getting a hotel. I called 4 hotels within a 30 drive of the range. The cheapest I could find was $205/night. Ridiculous. Decided to stay an hour away in Commerce. A 1 hr drive to the match isn't that big a deal.