lawboy
-
Posts
642 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by lawboy
-
-
I LOVE shooter-on-shooter steel matches.
Were they shooting for cash?
That is the only way to do it, there needs to be $$$$$ on the line.
-
I'd love to hear from the OP how he is doing on his weight loss goal.
My take on it.
1. Diet. Eat whole foods. Control calorie intake. Control when you eat. Pre planning meals is a must.
2. Burn calories! Many ways to do it but when you are obese to start, avoid exercises that will shock your joints as you will get injured. Walk. Walk stairs (don't runt them). Swim. Ride a bicycle.
Get your heart and respiratory rates up and keep them up for 30-60 minutes every day.
3. Once you get to where you can safely do so, start jogging.
-
I am running Ready Tactical mag pouches and Ready Tactical DOH holster.
I am using Wilderness Belt right now as my L10 gear is on my CR Speed Belt and I have not decided what belt system to buy for the Production gear.
I really have only shot two matches with the XD Tac9 so I cannot say a whole lot about the gear but the pouches and holster worked fine on those two outings.
-
Called Virgil today. The man offered me 1. a refund, 2. a loaner King Bo-Mar style sight.
He also told me that the new sights are still months out so I could make an informed decision.
You cannot ask for better customer service.
I am taking the loaner and I will wait.
When the new ones are ready I will get one and order a SECOND one for my backup gun. Why? Because I like the man!
-
My K-1 died last year after about 1000 rounds, See my posts nos. 163 and 175 in this thread. They fixed it and I've put a few thousand more rounds downrange with the sight. Tonight cleaning the gun I noticed that it has once again died. Same problem, elevation screw head broke off. Reading this thread it seems Tripp is not currently selling them and is redesigning the unit. I will call tomorrow to see what to do. Disappointing. May have to order a new sight from Les Baer as I put the original sight on another 1911 build.
-
Mine is about 1 1/2 turns up from buttom on an EDGE and has not broken in about 3 years and 28,000 rounds
I have adjusted both of my 1911 game guns so the shots hit point of aim at 20 yards with the rear sight elevation screw turned HARD all the way down. The sights are bottomed out. Other than one defective Tripp K-1 sight, I've never had a problem.
Editted to add that Tripp repaired the sight and it is still going strong after thousands of rounds.
-
Why are people lubing pistol brass? I really want to know. I assume everyone is using carbide dies and tumble cleaning their brass before loading so ... ?
I get it with rifle cases but I hand lube each case right before sizing, then hand wipe it with a towel before moving to the next case. What's the rush?
Because it makes the press much easier to operate.
What's the rush? Reloading isn't my hobby. Shooting is.
Fair enough. Although I've never found my Dillon 650 a problem to operate so long at the ram and other wear points are properly lubed. I've never seen rushing recommended in any reloading manuals. But to each his own.
-
My rule of thumb: When I am not SURE, I DO NOT CHANGE THE STATUS QUO.
Keep the gun until you know you want to sell it.
-
FWIW, last year at Area 2 I chronoed at 181.9pf using 5.0 WST and a 202gr SWC.
Figured I could afford to bump the load down a tad.
-
That is so true. Thin very thin blue.
I concur. The bluing on mine is getting pretty worm and I LOVE the look. When it is bad enough though, it is going to get hard chromed.
-
Arched with S&A magwell. Just fits my hands so much better.
Bingo!
Also, the poll does not have all the options, such as the wedge MSH, or the ones that are shaved on the left or right side.
Finally, in order to TRULY know which version is best for you, you have to try them all with the various trigger lengths and shapes because the shape of the trigger shoe face as well as the total length of pull significantly influence the way the gun feels, points and indexes.
-
Nick,
The pistol was originally listed by the seller to be in great shape with a low round count.
I saw the pic and said "Wait a minute...." 'cos the finish looked worn.
I called the shop and was told it was "hardly used and had a low round count"
I asked for further info on year it was made and what the seller considered a low round count and the questions were ignored so I did my own research and found from Les Baer that the pistol was 14 years old.
The seller STILL has yet to even give me any sort of idea what he considers to be a "low round count".
The staff at Les Baer pointed out that a new one for $1620 with a lifetime warranty would be a better buy than a used/possibly abused one for $1425+tax and I agree with them.
Not saying the pistol is crap...just saying the seller has unreasonable pricing for it.
I bet if you offered him $1300 he would take it. At $800 ... you are bargain shopping. Not a bad thing to bargain shop but sometimes you don't get the bargain. At $1300, you won't get hurt and neither will the seller. Also, worn finish is not an indication of round count. Many a carry gun has substantial finish wear and very few rounds downrange. Just a thought.
-
This is where you posted
Stage Comments or Questions
Note: Not for Stage Design
Try posting here
Pre-match
Before the first shot is fired...
- Tararget & Prop Design and Construction
- Stage Design
- Registration and Squading
Fair enough. Will do.
Administrator, please move the thread.
- Tararget & Prop Design and Construction
-
I'm shooting it from 3 positions, at the start on the left, then move infront of the wall to the right side x's, then move to the back in the center and shooting both side arrays from there.
Now if you move the rear fault line 1 foot in from the end of the wall, I now have to get to both sides of the wall and the plan changes again.
Keep the rear fault line a foot in from the end of the wall and put start position hands on X's on the wall at the rear fault line, shooter picks which side they start. I'm going to start on the left, shoot left side array, go around the end of the wall at the rear, shoot right side array moving up, stop to shoot paper on left, then move over to shoot steel and paper on right.
Either way I am looking for the least amount of movement. But this is all coming from a fat guy who doesn't move the fastest.
Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk
I like some of your ideas, especially moving out of the shooting area in the front to go around the wall then back into the shooting area to shoot the other front array, rather than running all the way back around. Nice touch!
-
This is the wrong forum for stage design questions.
I suggest you put some thought into what makes a good stage.
What is the right forum? I did not mean to post in the wrong place.
As to thinking about it ... pretty obvious that I am doing just that, isn't it?
If you think I have missed something, please share as I am asking for help. Thanks.
-
Okay, I revised the stage design and scribbled out another drawing that I hope is easier to understand. I have moved the wall that runs up the bay to the center of the wall that runs across the bay. I think this design evens up the challenge for shooters regardless of which set of Xs a shooter starts on. I also think this layout will be easier to shooters to decipher during the walk through as it is more symmetrical.
After some thinking, on the point raised by Graham Smith, I could move the start position to the rear limit line. That would allow shooters to engage both side arrays before advancing to the front arrays, but would require back tracking and would take more time.
I am wondering what more experienced shooters would feel about that. It would be easier for newbies but a time drain for everyone else. Where to strike the balance ... ?
-
I'm sorry Lawboy .... I must have looked at that diagram a dozen times, and even visualized how I would go about shooting the stage, and i failed to see the wall in front of the four paper targets on the top-left until just now.
I get it now ... you want the shooter to engage the top left targets from the right hand set of X's, and the steel & 2 papers from the left hand set of X's. Correct?
Bingo!
To Graham Smith: Nobody has to shoot anything while backing up. They can, but they do not have to. I would reload, run to the point where I turn the corner. Stop, shoot the side array. Reload, shoot the other side array while advancing forward to the last shooting position. Anybody who wants to shoot while backing can do so but they don't have to. I've shot plenty of stages where the start position is downrange of some targets and you have to move to the rear to engage them. Just one more skill you need to have to be ready for big matches and we are trying to get our shooters ready to leave the pond and swim successfully in the ocean.
-
I like it. Only question is where do you engage the steel from?
Left side of the wall by the Xs. It is an angle shot. Our bays are safe for those shots.
-
Okay, this stage would be named "LOOK AT ME NOW!" because I kind of got reamed for me last stage design mentioned in the other thread "Is this a BS Target?"
I need to redeem myself and get better at stage design so I am trying to figure out what my next effort will be.
Excuse the infantile drawing.
WSB would be basically, "start position toes on either set of Xs, shooter's choice, facing down range, hands at sides, gun loaded and holstered. On audible signal, from within shooting area A, engage all targets as they become visible." Comstock scoring.
What do you all think of this stage?
-
Top one is for L10.
Custom LB Premier II.
Two Tone for Single Stack.
S/A bottom end. GI Remington Slide with LB internals.
-
How much WST are you using in your favorite loads for 200 grain LSWC's? How would you compare WST to Clays, VV N310 and/or Titegroup in the 45 ACP? I am going to try some this weekend for the first time -- thanks in advance for your input and thoughts.
Danny
4.7grs for me. YMMV.
-
Got a line on a Les Baer Concept 3 pistol in .45 cal. being offered for sale by a local gun shop.
I'm told that it's the original owner selling it and it has a "low round count" and he's selling the pistol due to financial problems.
He wants $1575 for it.
I checked online and a new one goes for $1910.
I asked for more info on what low round count means and for the shop to send me pics of it. The owner is a friend and I trust him to not try to sell me a crappy pistol but it's still fifteen hundred bucks I'd be spending.
Opinions anyone?
JK
It is a financially sound deal if that is what you are asking. If you want it, buy it and be happy.
I have a PMII I would not part with for love nor money. -
With regards to CoF with targets that are all blacked out but the A zone, if these are used exclusively on a stage and no other targets presented then I would say it fails to meet Priciple 2 and possible Priciple 5
For priciple 2:
2. Accuracy, power and speed are the equivalent elements of practical shooting
and practical competition must be conducted in such a way as to evaluate
these elements equally
You have eliminated the scoring difference of power factor and are no longer testing it. This is the same reason as rule 4.3.1.4
4.3.1.4 Various sizes of metal plates may be used (see Appendix B5),
however, metal plates must not be used exclusively in a course
of fire. At least one authorized paper target or Popper must be
included in each course of fire
An all plate stage is not allowed buecause there is no distiction between major and minor. While there is no direct rule prohibiting the use of hard cover in this fashion I would suggest it is bad course design and there should be at least 1 paper with all scoring zones available (could still have hard cover as long as all scoring zones are available (skunk stripe)) or at least 1 pepper popper.
As for Priciple 5, is this a realistic target presentation? Why not just make and entire course of B zones? The target is smaller and tests accuracy, presents a more realistic target and has scoring zones to differentiate power factors.
These points are well taken. Actually, my original stage had one fully-available metric target. It was the longest shot in the course of fire and you can plainly see it in the right corner of one of the photos in my original post.
As for the idea, stated by another poster, that we feel we "need" stripes to force aiming, we do not feel that way at all. It is one of maybe a few thousand ways to present an accuracy challenge at speed. Distance, ackward positions, angles to target, moving targets, moving platforms, all these increase the challenge of shooting accurately. My only challenge to the original detractors at our match was, "why is this stripe an unacceptable method when all the others seem fine?" What I got in return was foul language; not a convincing argument.
-
I ran the all blacked out but the a-zone target at a Level-III match. Actually, the whole stage was 15 or so of those targets.
Our local MD ran your stripe at our Level-I match...except he had more than one stripe.
You just gave me an evil idea. One stripe down the center of the a zone. 1 stripe in the C zone on each side along the A perf.
On the all blacked out targets, my stage ORIGINALLY was going to be just all, all the metrics were going to be A zone only. But again, the groaning and moaning and arm twisting forced me to change it up. Then they were not happy with the stripe ...
I hate giving a DQ
in Match Screw-ups
Posted
Oh. My. God. Thank you! I don't care if you invented USPSA. You need to wait for the RO to give the commands. The commands help insure safety. The commands help insure that the RO sees what is happening. The commands give the RO control of the pace of what is happening (which, in the OP's case, would have allowed him to prevent the DQ). The commands are there to insure that the shooter is actually finished with the course of fire (IF you are finished ...). The commands are IMPORTANT. I always wait for them. If the RO is distracted I will just wait until he/she gives the commands.
I slow shooters down all the time during ULASC, novice and veteran shooters alike. I will make them reopen that slide and SHOW me clear, then hammer down holster when I tell them to. It is absolutely all about safety.