Whoops!
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Posts posted by Whoops!
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Let me give a little more insight . . . The Gold Teams are almost never timed well from the factory so you need to have a gunsmith time the barrel first off unless you want it to sheer the upper lugs in short order. In order to get a 38 super gold team to run 38 supercomp, you need to change the extractor to a 9mm extractor. All modern guns are reliable when properly tuned. I haven't found one I haven't been able to make reliable from a Remington 597 to a shoddily assembled open gun made from a Turkish platform.
The stock "v12" gold team does not have quite enough compensation from the muzzle break, but it has plenty of porting. The diagonel porting returns the dot extremely well to center, but the muzzle rise is slightly too much for the fastest split times possible from the platform. Grauffel has an extra horizontal hole drilled through his v12 comp to fix this.
The platform shoots better than a regular STI or Czechmate (unless porting is added) and is worth the investment. The only STI's that are realistically competitive with it at the highest level have additional barrel porting put in and the Tanfoglio still has a minute advantage.
The Gold Team's are a better deal initially, but will wear through parts more often and so the advantage price wise is negligible over the long term. That being said, they don't wear through the parts fast enough to not be reliable when needed. You just have to know what to look for in terms of wear.
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Many of you are saying the same things, just interpreting them like they are different. I don't really think there's any particular need for anyone to be disagreeing with anyone here.
Bottom lines:
You can't use a target focus all the time and be the best.
You need to figure out your eye situation in order to increase the speed at which you are able to focus on the front sight.
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Take it from a guy who wears glasses... it's your glasses (partially at least).
Let me guess, you are perfectly able to focus on the front sight when you are determined to look at it, but no matter what it just washes out when you are running through a stage. Anytime you just focus on the front sight, it seems like it takes a full 2 seconds to adjust. My vision is 20/40 uncorrected. When I shoot iron sights, I do it without my regular prescription glasses on and it makes a world of difference. As someone else stated, the glasses are basically designed for you to have a harder time to see the front sight unless the design of the glasses is adjusted for that specific purpose.
If your vision isn't too bad, try shooting with just safety glasses on. If it is too bad, have glasses made for your goal. As stated also, a piece of scotch tape over the non-dominant eye will probably make a positive difference regardless of if you're wearing prescription glasses or not.
As had been said a million times before, the best shooters focus on the front sight. You'll never be able to focus as fast as them with your regular prescription glasses on. The physical limitation can't be overcome. Someone prove me wrong with a big name who uses glasses for distance vision, if able.
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I didn't like the Doctor or the Fastfire.
I haven't looked in an XD in a long time but . . . your ejector isn't properly tuned for your mount. Worst case scenario, have a new one custom made to the appropriate shape and fitment. I wish I could remember the shape of the ejectors in my XDs . . . But they are probably a shape and girth you can file appropriately yourself.
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Probably one of the awesomest things I have ever seen . . .
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Ditto what most others said. However, all this really requires is ejector tuning at the range. Watch the ejection port of the gun to see how the brass ejects each time you fire it. I would say start with the contact point almost at the very top of the ejector and slowly work your way down with a square diamond file. You can not get the contact point consistent enough with a Dremel in my experience. Myne ended up being about 1/2 way down to consistently shoot the gap between the scope mount and the ejection port of the slide.
If the brass is inconsistently being ejected and the contact point is consistent along the ejector (ie the beveled point is not on the far right or left side of the ejector, it is centered all the way across), this means you have an extractor problem - usually a dirty Aftec. You can tell this when some brass are shooting the gap perfectly centered and some still occassionally get shot up into the scope mount. That being said, you have to be good on your ejector before you can properly diagnose this particular issue. You'll know you're good when 4 out of 5 or so consistently shoot through the gap perfectly centered and you just have that damn occasional one that goes right up into the stupid scope mount.
I would never recommend mag tuning for this particular problem because I would always recommend the Dawson mag tuning kit as a guide to use before doing anything else. If your mags are to spec with that, i.e. the feed lip width at about .355", it aint the mags. Even if the mags are stock, I would bet the mags would never realistically cause the problem you are describing.
None of the springs in the gun would, save for the Aftec springs if it is found to be an extractor problem after fixing the ejector.
A recoil spring will never realistically fix this problem. It's only a bandaid that *might* (*very rarely) make the symptoms of the issue hide for a little while.
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Yes and No. If you can enter or exit a shooting position sooner by engaging targets in a specific direction then it makes sense to use the target engagement order that promotes being able to start shooting sooner. Now if you have targets in a shooting position that are not exposed any sooner or later, basically getting there shooting then leaving, its usually best to start with the easiest target to shoot in the array and sweep towards the direction of the remaining targets. If all of the targets in the shooting position are essentially the same shot difficulty then it makes no difference if you shoot them one direction or the other. In these scenario's I usually tell people to shoot the array in their preferred sweeping direction.
As far as physically exiting the shooting position that has more to do with your foot placement in the shooting position verses which direction you are sweeping across the targets while engaging them. If you can eliminate shuffle steps as you exit the shooting position and use a wide stance that keeps you from shuffling your feet while in the shooting position that will usually produce the most efficient shooting platform as well as exiting platform. When I break down stages I look for key foot placement locations which will allow me to shoot in the position from a single stance and also allow me to launch out of the shooting position with a solid push of my trailing leg.
His are the cliff notes, pick a target engagement order which allows you to start shooting as soon as possible as you enter the shooting position. Pick a foot placement location which allows you to shoot the whole target array without shuffling your feet and also allows you to launch out of the shooting position aggressively with a single big push of the trailing leg.
This guy knows what he's talking about. It's refreshing to see someone else who thinks about things so critically.
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That was awesome and very informative as far as how important movement is. Thanks for the vid.
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Don't show it to your RO or any RO. There's barely any material you can take off the magwell of an M&P anyway. Also, that's a stupid rule. Here's why. The CZ-75 Shadow Target's magwell is beveled all around from the factory. It has an exceptionally wide opening for any production gun and it will always be more competitive than your M&P thanks to the other attributes of the gun. Even though I can put parts from that gun onto my regular CZ-75b and do it legally in production, the only way I can legally get that wider magwell opening is by swapping out the frame, essentially making it an entirely new gun.
It's not fair that some guns can have wider openings than others, they need a not to exceed measurement for the magwell opening, not a stupid "you can't" rule even though everyone's gun has a different sized magwell. If you go to a big match, make them prove your magwell is any larger than any one elses. If you show them it from the start, they will throw you in open which is extremely unfair for you. In my opinion, it's not unfair for you to compete in production where pretty much all the CZ shooters will still have an advantage over you thanks to the general attributes of their firearms. This is coming from a guy who has shot all kinds of guns in production, including CZs and M&Ps.
Just because you took a little sandpaper to the grip of your gun doesn't mean you should be forced to now spend another $500 bucks to be semi-competitive in your division.
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I don't know what you consider rough, but make sure you do an adequate amount of sanding with the lower grit sandpapers. Thankfully, Wal-Mart now carries up to 3000 grit sandpaper in their automotive section. I usually go to about 1500 grit. Then, I use a general polish such as Flitz. Then, I use either oil or a plastic conditioner and it usually comes out looking pretty good. It won't be factory smooth, but it can be close.
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.185" A little under 3/16.
On a side note, anyone know of a good gunsmith or outfit to this? I found one edm in my local area, but they are trying to charge me between $250 and $350 for 3 holes.
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The gain twist rifling is one of the main culprits as it causes less pressure to be created in the beginning of the pressure curve, there is less force needed to propel the bullet down the barrel and there is more room for the powder to burn throughout its burn in compared to other barrels. As a result, there is less pressure pushing the bullet forward throughout the entirety of it's travel down the barrel, leading to a lower velocity when compared with other handgun barrels of the same length. You will see similar velocities using longer barrels of the same length when one is gain twist rifled and the other is conventional. The key is to use a long enough barrel to fully utilize the respective burns.
In my book, this is great for open guns as the pressure curve will sustain a higher pressure later on in the curve when the gas is interacting with the compensator and the burn will be sustained for a longer time as when compared to a non-gain twist rifled barrel.
I have an AET and conventional barrels. My experience is the same as yours as far as velocity goes.
I have had good luck with plated bullets in my AET barrel, but the characteristics of my open gun pushing the bullet down the barrel are substantially different than those of a limited gun.
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So, I'm about to have more holes edmd in one of my barrels. I am considering an additional modification while it is in the shop.
As with the larger final chamber of the Dawson comp and Akai comp, I am interested in a modification to better suit reduction of muzzle rise in my Thundercomp by releasing the vacuum associated with the expansion of the gas. In looking at it and considering structural drawbacks. I've decided that perhaps the best way to release the vacuum of the muzzle blast in the final chamber is to extend the last side ports through the wall of the second to last chamber and into the final chamber.
I understand this will decrease the surface area which blast will act upon, but does anyone with a knowledge of fluid dynamics think this will help achieve my desired result and overall decrease the muzzle rise instead of increase it?
I don't know enough about this subject to make an educated choice on the matter.
My proposed idea is illustrated in the second attached picture.
I am also considering removing material from the final port hole up as in the third picture. I believe this may accomplish my goal better, but at the added expense of much less surface area for the muzzle blast to act upon. However, this will also be slightly less prone to cracking if done correctly, if I'm not mistaken.
Thanks,
Zack
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Hi all, running through all the topics and doing it myself, I have some unanswered questions about this topic.
Has anyone ever personally ruined a barrel due to shooting factory 9mm luger in a 38 super barrel? If you ruined it with handloads, were they major power factor?
Is it possible that some aftermarket .38 super barrels headspace 9mm off of both the extractor and the BASE of the case? I believe some aftermarket 38 super chambers can be as tight as .390", the largest part of the case of the 9mm is approximately .391".
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Even with factory loads, you will notice a substantial difference with the compensator.
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Red, I've never had good luck with blue. If I need to remove it and the torx wrench doesn't work, time to either cut a deep flat head spot in the screw or drill out the screw. I've always been able to remove the C-more screws with a regular wrench after red loctiting them since the head and wrench are so big, much less prone to stripping than the mount-to-frame screws.
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Myne hasn't failed to function in over 3000 rounds and a gunsmith hasn't touched it since I bought it. That being said, I had to fix a lot of original issues myself and diagnose the issues through proper scientific method.
The issues I found and fixed are going to be found in every open gun with factory stock parts and light recoil or main springs.
Magazine issues
Ejector issues
Extractor issues
Ignition issues
Once these are handled, your gun will be reliable unless something is heavily worn (ex. breach face)
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With a quality barrel and fitment (read proper timing), it will run better than a Czechmate and last longer for less money.
Here's the problem, no quality aftermarket threaded barrels are currently produced for it. You'll have to find a quality barrel maker than can and is willing to do a special run.
Or, you need a quality extended barrel and a good gunsmith to thread it or in some other manner attach a quality compensator to it.
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The next option is to buy a Dawson Precision mag catch and not worry about reshaping anything.
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Thanks. I actually did not know they would buff out to much of a shine.
Titanium can actually look like a mirror after you put enough time and effort into it with super high grit sanding devices and lots of liquid polishing time.
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I think you'll probably do about the same considering the accessories that come with it. Assuming the gun is in good shape, I would say it's an A OK deal. You may do better, but you could definitely do worse.
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Another thing to think about is you can't lighten the slide enough on a full-size to replicate a lightened shorty slide.
I'll contest that point. I've built 5" guns that weigh and balance the same as a 4.25" shorty.
The key difference being that the longer gun always shoots softer.
Help me to understand this. In these cases would you say you lightened the slide equally as much on both the shorty and full size? I mean, it just makes sense that a gun with 3/4 of an inch less real estate would weigh less assuming everything else is completely equal.
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Ok, it turns out the reason you should buy a shorty is so you won't jump on the bandwagon and have what everyone else has
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Another thing to think about is you can't lighten the slide enough on a full-size to replicate a lightened shorty slide.
The easiest way to tell what you want, in my opinion, is to think about how you feel while shooting. I'm always thinking "why do I have to wait for this stupid dot?" If you think that, I think you'll be happy with the shorty. If while shooting an open gun you think "Holy Crap!" You'll probably like the full size better.
Come on, where are my shorties at?
Front sight focus - I don't get it?
in Handgun Techniques
Posted
A couple things. Try just one piece of scoth tape over the non-dominant eye, right in the middle of where the sight plane is when you are shooting.
Contacts will have the same effect as glasses with the focal plane. I figured you were using corrective devices for distance vision? Even though you can focus on and read things at 20/20 both near and far with your corrective devices, they still change your ability to focus on your front sight at speed.