Whoops!
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Posts posted by Whoops!
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The tri topping all the way back definitely weakened the point at which it cracked. It's also quite possible the smith is doing the cuts too quickly and without a proper cooling agent which will heat temper the slide inappropriately.
I've heard a lot of reports of recent cracked STI slides and seen examples myself. I'm staying away from STI slides from now on.
I don't buy firing it too quickly causing the slide to be heat tempered. I'm going to stay with the theories I mentioned here. The slides on my open guns never heat up past the point where I can touch them, even after I run 300 rounds through them in less than a half hour.
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The slower the better for a Trubor, I agree that N105 is better than 3n38.
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Even if they are within spec, I would recommend squeezing them front to back with a vice. It wil increase mag capacity and they are almost always (read, I've never seen them not) longer than needed for your ammo oal.
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http://www.bodytrainer.tv/en/exercise/dumbbell_wrist_extension
I don't know if this works or not.
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With the .45 you can safely make major with N310 and have less muzzle flip. With the .40, you have the round count advantage.
Which is better? The round count advantage.
How much of a difference will it make with an experienced shooter???
Over the course of a 15 stage match, probably 3-5 seconds total with the stage varieties I've seen.
In other words, it won't keep you from winning B class, but it could potentially hold you back from an overall win.
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This^^^
I think we have a pretty unanimous winner here.
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Is the option to walk-on register for nationals ever officially listed anywhere? I know it is sort of an unspoken tradition, but it would be nice to know it will definitely be available before I make the drive to the nats.
Unfortunately, my job does not allow for preplanning with regards to attendance.
Thanks,
Zack
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There was a time when I thought full size was better. Then there was a time when I thought a shorty was better. Scientifically, a shorty has the potential to make a better open gun.
Now, I would say, all that matters is comp, barrel (specifically porting), and spring setup along with the powder you run.
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Please, don't apologise to me. I was just kidding around.
ktm300 - will that primary internal safety keep the modified Glock from going off when a couple of pounds of pressure are applied to the trigger? Will the manual safety on the 1911? Will the grip safety on the 1911? There is definitely some contradiction in the rules in this case.
Yet again I say, I'm not saying if it's right or wrong. But, I see where the OP is coming from.
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Oh god, I can't go through them all and I certainly don't know them all. http://www.stupidlaws.com/
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I'm surprised by how many people follow the mentality of "those are the rules so they must be followed." Some rules are obviously worse than others, take certain anti-gun rules for example . . . or the laws still on the books today that were made a hundred years ago and are now made fun of by everyone, even by police officers. Let me ask you this, if there was a rule that none of you could own or drink alcoholic beverages . . . ok, you see where this is going.
I'm not saying what the OP did is right or wrong. I simply ask this. Was his 2011 on a barrel pointed down range with the manual safety off less dangerous than a Glock with a competition trigger on the same barrel, or in a holster? One of these guns will automatically DQ the shooter. The other one is safe. Both require approximately two pounds of pressure on the trigger before the bullet is ignited and sent out of the barrel at a dangerous speed.
Also, every major match RO I've talked to tells me if something is breaking the 180 if I ask about it before hand. If you're an RO, and you don't, you are a **** and you're pushing people away from the sport. You should be ashamed of yourself.
Nice analogy, if you ignore that people who participate in this sport agree to follow the rules.
If you don't like the game, don't play. If you really don't like it, and feel the need to play, suck it up and try to change the rules in a way accepted by the game that you chose to play.
Mark
***Editted to put reply down here, not in quote box.***
I guess my best response to this is . . . I agree with you.? I never said don't follow the rules. I just said I'm surprised by so many advocating following all rules to the letter no matter what they are. I also mentioned that there are cases today, where everyone, even those advocating following all the rules, don't follow the rules. Some rules are stupid and need to be changed. Until they're changed, do what you decide you should do.
If anything, I may or may not be implicating additional rules against Glocks }
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Cool, thanks. I'm pondering the nationals so I don't think it would be too much trouble.
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It was already done on the 9th, but they haven't updated my class. I read they do the reload sometime from the 11th to the 15th, but think it may not be done this month due to nats.
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If I shoot a major as X class, will I actually be classed as my previous and still valid class when the scores are released and prizes are awarded?
I'm sure there's an answer to this somewhere, I just can't find it.
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I'm surprised by how many people follow the mentality of "those are the rules so they must be followed." Some rules are obviously worse than others, take certain anti-gun rules for example . . . or the laws still on the books today that were made a hundred years ago and are now made fun of by everyone, even by police officers. Let me ask you this, if there was a rule that none of you could own or drink alcoholic beverages . . . ok, you see where this is going.
I'm not saying what the OP did is right or wrong. I simply ask this. Was his 2011 on a barrel pointed down range with the manual safety off less dangerous than a Glock with a competition trigger on the same barrel, or in a holster? One of these guns will automatically DQ the shooter. The other one is safe. Both require approximately two pounds of pressure on the trigger before the bullet is ignited and sent out of the barrel at a dangerous speed.
Also, every major match RO I've talked to tells me if something is breaking the 180 if I ask about it before hand. If you're an RO, and you don't, you are a **** and you're pushing people away from the sport. You should be ashamed of yourself.
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Thanks for the tip!
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It was a joke :facepalm:
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This one's easy. I'll show you not just one person, but an entire team doing sub .08 second splits.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/4UZdGbHKh4Q?feature=player_detailpage
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I saw in a vid that KC Eusebio's running one on his Glock now. I find that quite interesting. I was thinking about the potential of using one of these when they first came out, but narrowed it out due to the small dot and high weight. Although, It sure would be nice to have something without the parallax of my C-more that isn't a micro dot. Has anyone tried one?
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Well said.
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The brass grips are pretty awesome. 6 oz. is a surprising amount of weight.
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Put me with the shooters here who have seen more than one "perfect double." In fact, sometimes I see more than one in one day if I'm zeroing. Even using a card to measure and look for any extra grease ring outline it is tough if not impossible to see a second shot in the paper. For reference, pretty much every time I used to slow-fire zero my open gun at 15 yards (I haven't shot much lately), standing, it was one ragged hole. I'm not the only one that applies to by any stretch of the imagination. People should be able to call what they think is a double without fear of being called for "unsportsmanlike conduct." Just referencing how many people in this thread alone have seen a "perfect double," how many people do you think have been screwed out of higher placing in a match for alpha/mikes?
Maybe we should have two RO's following each shooter, one watching the shooter, the other watching the targets. Most of the matches charge enough where you'd think they'd be able to pay the RO's to do it. }
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No prob
I forgot I had a vid up of me with my old Gold Team. It's all stock here. I think I was using 3n38 loads? I can't remember for the life of me. I hadn't perfected my grip at this point, it wasn't too terrible - but I've definitely improved since the vid. I wasn't really shooting for speed, as it was just a sales vid to show it was reliable. I'm thinking some of my splits might be hitting .25 or .28 seconds in the later part of the vid? I don't know.
Unfortunately, I didn't realise there was a barrel lug problem here until the guy I sold it to had a problem and I did some research on it. I can tell you this, even though the value of each of the 3 platforms is debatable, the Gold Team looked damn good for the price. I think I paid 17 or 1800 from the dealer with none of the $500 in accessories you see added (sideways mount, C-more, 170 mm mag).
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Barrel "timing" is just the fitment of the barrel within the slide. Ideally, when fired, the barrel will apply appropriate loads to each one of its lugs on both the top and bottom of the barrel and then to the slide stop and frame.
The lugs are the little ridged pieces of metal that extend above and below the barrel. There are 3 on top and one on bottom. Proper timing is one of the most difficult manufacturing aspects of these handguns (read all CZ's, Tanfoglios, and 1911/2011's). Thus, many manufacturers don't take the time or money to do it properly; this is especially true since most people don't put thousands of rounds through their guns like competitive shooters do. In the Gold Team's case, the wear from improper timing will be accelerated due to the additional weight of the cone comp on the end of the barrel. Most of these gun types are improperly timed against the slide stop so that the slide stop will break approximately every 5000 rounds.
Unfortunately, the Gold Team is most often improperly timed against the upper lugs so that the ridged pieces on top of the barrel will deform to a point where the gun is unusable without a new barrel after approximately 3 to 8,000 rounds. Any ok 1911 gunsmith can fix this so that the barrel lasts an appropriate amount of time. That being said, the problem has been so bad in some of the Gold Team's that you literally don't want to shoot it at all until you have the timing checked out. Otherwise, irrepairable damage may occur to the upper lugs, the slide, or both.
Last time I checked, a gunsmith is usually high one hundreds to fix the barrel timing? I'm thinking around like 185?
A lot of people don't like the stock Gold Team trigger. It doesn't really bother me. I practice pulling heavy double action triggers a lot and can lay down .2 second splits with the stock 3.5 pound Gold Team trigger without any bother. You can adjust it and polish it yourself to have minimal travel and weight. It's really not bad. I would say better than any stock service pistol I've ever tried, about the same weight as some Sigs in single action, but less travel and slop.
The guys I used to know who had Czechmates didn't have any more problems with reliability than any of the guys I knew who used Trubore's and Grandmasters and custom built 2011's. They almost all require a few things be done to them for utmost reliability. That being said, once they are done, they are usually done for a long time.
Newly built open gun failed to feed, here's what I did to fix it..
in Open Pistols
Posted · Edited by Whoops!
Hi all, I finally got around to having Doug Jones put together a previously Accu-Railed Limcat upper I purchased by itself about a year ago. It was advertised to only have 1500 rounds through it and I believe it. No breech face wear. The person had obviously shot lead ammo through it and leaded the comp . . . I'm ok with this since I was planning on having the whole thing bead blasted anyway since it was an ugly blue color and it's hard to find a Limcat top end by itself, especially this generation in all of it's glory.
I didn't think it would work at first, the recoil spring was approximately 10 lbs and I always use 19 lb mainsprings which in many cases cause fully built open guns to be too heavily sprung. As a result, I had told Doug not to worry about the gun if it didn't work. Doug does good work in a quick time period and I highly recommend him, he had nothing to do with the issue this gun had. That being said, after lightening the springs it still didn't work. It would normally fail to feed, sometimes so excessively that I couldn't force the slide shut on the ammunition halfway into the chamber. There were long scracthes along the side of the brass after shooting. At first I thought ejector, this gun was using an extra long ejector that hadn't been cut for magazine clearance and so it was rubbing along the brass as it fed. Cutting the ejector for clearance may have made some difference, but didn't fix the main issue. Then I thought a burr in the barrel . . . there wasn't one. Then I thought extractor. The upper had an Aftec extractor already installed and it was almost like it had too much tension. Alas, that was not the issue and the firing pin stop was properly fitted.
I noticed the barrel ramp wasn't completely uniform. The barrel hadn't been throated, but it was possible someone incorrectly cut the base of the ramp as one side was higher than the other and unevenly cut. I straightened it out and repolished the ramp, along with the breech face, and pretty much every other internal of the gun while I was at it (I like the slide to feel super smooth). It still didn't work.
While hand-cycling the gun without the extractor installed, I noticed the bullet at the top of the magazine was not the one causing the failure to feed. It was actually the bullet beneath the top one. I knew it wasn't a magazine issue, as I had tuned the mags myself and they had worked well on another gun. In this case, someone put a very small angle cut on the bottom of the breech face. As the slide was feeding the top round, the straight cut on the bottom of the breech face would dig into the next round in the magazine and force it into the lower section of the feed ramp, jamming the slide. This explains the long scratches along the brass (which prior to seeing this I was beginning to think had nothing to do with the issue) I radiused the cut so it wouldn't dig into the next round in the magazine and polished the underside of the slide and breech face again. . . fixed. Total time to diagnose and fix, including range time, 6 hours.