TexasShootR
-
Posts
78 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by TexasShootR
-
-
Thanks Dr. Phil, this question probably doesn't belong here but asking anyway. If I go with a lighter bullet should I use a slower burning powder or a hotter burning powder and should I use a lighter or stiffer recoil spring for better control? Newby questions but to old to care, Thanks
-
Appreciate that Braxton1, can't argue with you at all on the "Old open shooter". I had considered the smaller bullet but was thinking the snappier the more the flip. If I wasn't so competitive in nature I wouldn't care to much about slow times but I think if I tried, it would be hard to make it out of B class with what I'm doing now.
-
Got this gun a few years ago after giving up my 2011 open gun, about the time Carry Optics got hot. After shooting my first match with it I realized that this Sig was a different beast with respect to muzzle flip. Since then I have more or less stop shooting matches but I have continued to practice shooting the Sig, trying to tame the muzzle flip. I have to say I haven't been very successful.
For example, shooting at 4 targets, 2 rounds each, 15 yard out with timer and pistol holstered. After a couple of different days on the range, taken my best time from multiple groups fired, I have these split times, 1.42 .43 .36 .32 .36 .34 .34 .31 (3.88). With this it's all Alpha's and Charlie's no 2's. As I shoot it seems an eternity for the sight (red dot) to come back to target so I feel that second shot needs to be fired, thus the Charlie.
I have made a couple modifications to the pistol, installed a tungsten guide rod and a Keres Trigger (which made a big improvement). Long story short I'm starting to think that this is the best this pistol is going to get with what I'm firing through it, which is 147gn Bayou Bullets with 126PF. With all that said, am I hoping for to much as far as wanting doubles at 15 yards with the Sig or is there something someone could suggest that would help me with the muzzle flip/dip?
Thanks,
-
7 hours ago, 625 said:
Nothing worst than a squib round. Glad you got it out.
Had forgot we called that a squib round, guess I've been gone from competition to long.
-
Update, got the bullet out. Nervous as heck doing this in my garage in a subdivision but I took all precautions. Long story short, I pressed on the ejector pin while pulling back on the slide and it came loose. I then had to hammer the stuck bullet out of the barrel. Looks like it didn't get a hit of powder during the loading, looks like the primer drove the bullet into the barrel. Out of curiosity I measured the remaining bullets in the mag and they were all 1.14 COL. Thanks to all that replied!
-
Thanks for the advice, I was trying the hold slide and hit with palm but its so small very hard to do. I will give it another go next weekend and will let you know how it goes.
-
1 hour ago, 625 said:
Is this reloaded ammo or factory?
Yes reload
-
Out shooting this evening with my P365 and twice it failed to fire. The first time it happened I was able to pull back on the slide a little. After releasing the slide it went forward and the gun fired. About 10 shots later it failed to fire again. Now the slide will only move about an eighth of an inch backward and forward. When I pull the trigger I hear what could be the firing pin release, not sure. Whatever the sound is, it sounds a bit light. I've seen and dealt with a few fail to fire situations which I had to put a lot of force on the pistol to get it to open but this little pistol isn't moving when I try to get it open. Plus I know the bullet is still in the case. Looking for some expert advice on what to do. Thanks!
-
I have 2000 147gr FP Bayou Bullets. Would anyone care to share their load data (if you have any) for 9mm 147gr FP Bayou Bullets, that will give good results shooting minor, for CO division, shooting a Sig 320 X5 Legion? Or any recommendations for a good shooting 9mm minor round for the Sig. Thanks
-
Brian, wanted to let you know I've just sold an item here at BE and also made a small donation. Thanks
-
Chrono this last week,
Blue Bullets 147 gn
N320 3.1 - 3.2 gn
COL 1.140
range brass
cci spp
10 rounds, AV 882 FPS, ES 31, SD 9, Power Factor 129.9
Very good on recoil, not much dip on return.
Sig P320 x5 legion.
-
On 6/20/2020 at 3:00 PM, 36873687 said:
3.2 to 3.3 n320 will get ya there
Thanks, 36873687,
147gn Blue Bullets
3.3gn VV N320
COL 1.135
String one, 10 rounds AV 898, ES 20, SD 6
String two, 10 rounds AV 900, ES 55. SD 15
Power Factor 132
Overall, recoil was very manageable. Very little muzzle dip. Accuracy good.
-
Going to start shooting Carry Optic Division but first I need some help with load data. I will be shooting 147gn Blue Bullets out of the Sig P320 X5 Legion.
Have a few powders on hand, VV3N38, VV N320, IMR 4756 and IMR SR 7625. Blue Bullets suggest loading for the lead bullets. Not finding any data for loading lead bullets on any of the listed powders that I have. Also for any of my powders listed the recommended charge for the XTP bullets won't make minor power factor (less than 850FPS). I did find one post here at BE where they use 3.3gn of VV N320 @ 1.125 but he had a short throat on a production gun. Would anyone shooting BB and a Legion care to share their load data?
Thanks
-
On 5/3/2017 at 9:09 PM, jcc7x7 said:
? How far are you shooting groups? About 18 yards
Are you shooting free hand or off a rest? . Shooting off rest
Is it going to make a difference , lets say shooting that won't make a difference under match conditionsI.e. you can't shoot a round into the back before a stage run etc.
if it's a real problem. i.e. can't hit a 6" plate on your first shot at 15 -20 yds with a center hold then get a new barrel installed by a "good" smith like Bedell so the gun hits POA vs POI on the first shot when it's racked into the chamber.
End of comment
Guys I appreciate your views and for taking the time to help with possible reasons why my gun shoots this way. TBH I have never heard of having a lock up problem. I was thinking the barrel was getting wear and after the first shot the barrel would heat up, thus making the barrel tighter through heat and the trajectory would change. Today I talked with a very reputable gunsmith here near me and he asked about my ammo. He suggested I try a known good ammo like MG. I hadn't thought of that but MG is what I started shooting through this gun but changed for a lower costing round. I've been shooting this bullet for a couple years, always having pretty good accuracy. But I have not checked for accuracy in sometime now, until last Saturday when I shot and had the worst match of my life ( long story but came in dead last at the Texas Open ? ). Anyway I'm still leaning towards a barrel problem but I'm no expert and appreciate all advice.
Thanks,
joe
Believe I got the cold versus hot backwards, cold would be tighter hot looser, I think.
-
Thanks for the input, let's assume that I have a lock up problem causing the first shot to go high right. What should I look for?
-
-
Can't find Cameron Custom Guns online. Anyone know if they are still in business?
-
What could be the cause of this shot grouping? My thought is the sight is off a bit plus the barrel has got lots of wear. On a four shot group the first shot goes far right and high. On the follow up shots lower left. If i let the gun cool down a couple of minutes between targets this is what happens. Aim point is always center red taking dead aim maybe 2-3 seconds per shot at 18 yards.
Thanks,
By the way this is a 4 year old Cameron gun with maybe 35, 40 thousand shots fired.
-
What kind of pistol you shooting?
90 degree mount or normal mount?
I shoot a 38 super built by Cameron Guns. It has a side mount c-more. It was built to shoot super comp but it eats supers as well thanks to Eddie J.
-
I did a search here looking for some help with tuning my open gun and found this thread. I was looking to find information on what steps to take to keep the red dot in the glass during recoil. After reading through slow motion comp testing I think my gun is on par with most other guns shown here in videos, meaning the dot movement looks very similar.
I shot a match last weekend where I felt I was waiting forever for my dot to come back into the glass so I could take the shot ( call the shot ). Watching and listening other open shooters go through the stages it sounded like their splits were much faster and their times agreed. So I decided to test a couple different loads through it, keeping everything the same but the powder charge. I shot a 168 power factor, 172 PF and my original load 174 PF between 15 and 20 yards. My results showed that my original load of 174PF performed the best with less muzzle dip.
It was interesting to me because during the match I never noticed any muzzle dip only muzzle rise and what seemed forever for it to return to center. But what my test showed was what seemed forever was on average .38 second splits @ 15-20 yards. I guess that's not that slow for a B class shooter. But the other two loads had noticeable muzzle dip which didn't change my splits all that much, actually my splits went down a little with the 172 PF but the acuarcy went down as well.
So all in all I've come to the conclusion that because there doesn't seem to be a holy grail to get a flat shooting open gun, without a lot of expense that most shooters just learn when to pull the trigger at the right moment in order to get a hit in the a zone with fast splits. But I stand to be corrected and any suggestion on how getting a flatter shooting gun, would be appreciated.
-
Update, today I did a little more polishing of the chamber and I also removed one of the springs on the Aftec extractor. Took it out to the range and put about 50 rounds through it without any FTF. Won't be sure if its 100% fixed untill next match but it did well today.
Thanks to all that replied with suggestions.
-
"are those marks just on the top of the barrel, or are they all around the barrel"
It seems to be more on the sides and top but before taken the picture I took some very fine wet dry sand paper and sanded it with a dowel rod and a drill. It polishes the bottom of the chamber more than the top and sides.
-
I do chamber check every round through a dillion gauge. Also the round will fall in the chamber with no problems if you drop it straight in.
-
Sorry about the lack of info.
This gun is new, maybe one thousand rounds through it. It shot fine the first 500 rounds but then at a local hybrid match (Generation 300) it started with this problem. A lot of shoting that day 300 rounds in eight stages.
.38 SuperComp
124gn MG CMJ
oal 1.225
VV 3n38 9.7gn. (1400fps)
Side note: When I set up this load the bullet measured 1.225 col but at some point (500 rounds?) the lenth changed and it measured 1.255 col. I corrected this back to 1.225 and reshot it and the gun still wouldn't cycle.
It will now hang open by just chambering a round by hand.
Here's some pictures
One person thought the extractor might be to tight
this scatch comes from the top of the ramp when it gets stuck
I can slowly slide the bullet in the barrel and it gets stuck at this point
Here are the scratches in the barrel, This is after a guick polishing.
Would like to add this gun was set up as a SuperComp, because I'm new to Open division and to .38 SuperComp I didn't know .38 Super brass was different than .38 SuperComp brass. So I ordered all Super brass. I was told it would be ok to shoot with the Super brass. And like I said it was fine for a while.
Sig P320 XFive muzzle flip
in Sig
Posted