TexasShootR
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Posts posted by TexasShootR
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Thanks for everyone's input it's very much appreciated.
Joe
p.s. Before you buy a product online make sure you know what your getting. Ask around for other peoples opinion and especially find out about the retailers return policy.
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Could not find a dip switch for gain control on the pcb just the small smt (I think it's called). What I did find is a rather poor job of foam insulation around the volume control. I'm going to try to reposition the foam and give it another try.
Correction I did find the dip switches mentioned earlier. There are two in each cup with hi or low. They were set on low so I set it to high and IMO makes no difference with the muffuling of sound.
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Could not find a dip switch for gain control on the pcb just the small smt (I think it's called). What I did find is a rather poor job of foam insulation around the volume control. I'm going to try to reposition the foam and give it another try.
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Should electronic ear protectors have better gunshot noise reducing level than ear plugs? Or are they more about being able to pick up other noise around you while muffling the gun shot. The reason I ask is my new headset has very loud gunshot sounds on or off. The headset fits very well to my head and is comfortable. Santa paid a pretty good penny for these I'm told so I'm thinking they should not be louder than ear plugs. Has anyone heard of electronic headsets not working properly?
Thanks,
Joe
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My Glock 35 broke another trigger spring this last weekend. I was at the range for a lesson and after about 100 rounds I noticed the trigger didn't reset. Not knowing what the problem was I cycled it and it was fine for a few more shots and it happened again. I cycled it again and it ran fine for a couple hundred more rounds fired. In the course of a thousand rounds it did this four or five times. Good thing was it kept shooting the whole day. Even let my instructor shoot a couple mags through it and he didn't notice a problem, or if he did he didn't say anything.
When I tore it down for cleaning I noticed the broken spring. This was a ZEV competition spring like the other. The spring broke just like the other but this time it was on the opposite side. Any ideas as to why it's breaking. Other than the ZEV Tech Fulcrum Trigger Ultimate kit I added .010inch to the bottom of the barrel lug for tighter lock up. By the way including this last outing I've shot about 3 thousand rounds since the last broken spring.
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I bought the Shot Timer Pro and at first thought it worked well but last time I used it there were missed shots, shots I didn't shoot and an unbelievable amount of first shot strings with the same time (ie... 1.81 draw time is it posible to be so consistent? ). I don't believe it was picking up other peoples shots because they were too far away when I was shooting. I will say that before my iPhone was updated to the latest version it seemed to work better.
All in all, I would never use it in competition or practice if I'm serious about exact times. Unless some changes in the app are made.
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Sent you a PM Brian, shot 8 strings with an average of 9.6 sec. Interesting, my slowest time was 9.25 and my fastest was 8.50. Thats less than a second apart for all strings. Slow but consistent
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To be honest I cant recall the .87 sec draw, did I really draw that fast or did I have the gun drawn and just fired? Honestly don't remember. The thing is that was my first attemp at using the IPSC Shot Timer I bought for my iPhone. My next best time of the of the four strings recorded was 1.98 sec which is more on par.
The split time is what is troubling me. After reading your suggestions I'm thinking it's probally to weak a grip with my weak hand causing the gun not to return. I don't feel like I'm looking at the target as much as I'm keeping eyes open and looking for the front sight to return.
Going to try Burkett's drill ( thanks for the suggestion) and also a drill that BE has posted here http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=109493 next weekend, maybe take some video. Hopefully I'll have some good news!
By the way here's a shot of my .89 sec draw (well maybe not) on my iPhone. It's a ten dollars app called IPSC Shot Timer. Not bad for the price and it does a nice job. I would recommend it.
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Wondering what I could incorporate into my practice that would help lower my shot times or split time while still hitting the A zone. Today was the first time to use a shot timer during practice and it showed my split times to be over a second.
Here's the numbers I got after 9 shots, 18 to 20 yards out using a 40 cal Glock35.
First shot after buzzer with gun holstered
.87
Here's the split times for the next 8 shots
1.48
1.31
1.01
1.12
1.30
1.40
1.01
.93
What gets me is I can unhulster the gun and fire it hitting the A zone in .87 (according to the timer) but it takes a little more than a second to reacquire the next shot. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Think I should have put this in the tips for improvement,Sry!
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Congrats also to the shoot off winners:
(Clang,clang,bang)Landis of Open division -He Clang,clang and bang master class.
Aaron Vezorak of Limited division - He bang,master class also.
Mike de Guzman of production division-He clang upper classes.
I was lucky enough to make it to the Gen300 shoot and had a really good time even though I finished 32nd. Actually finished higher than I expected
My congrats go out as well especially Aaron Vezorak who took me out in the first shoot off round. He then went on to win it all! After getting knocked out I had a little time to record some of the shoot out, here's a link hope it works. If it don't let me know. -
I would get a Lee "U" carbide sizing die. That will cut down the number of bullets that won't fit your casing gauge due to the glock buldge ( thats if you pick up rangs brass). Also some extra parts I would have on hand would be, primer seating punch # 13967 and primer seating cup #13824.For some reason I had problems with one bending. Get a couple more cartridge collection bins and I would lube/grease the reloader before using. As far as tumblers go the Lyman Turbo Pro 1200 is fairly quite and hasn't giving me any trouble. Other than that its all trail and error. Have fun and good luck.
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Preregistered last night, number 23 my lucky number!
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Are you running the really shiny chromed factory spring (old style), the dull factory spring (new style), or an aftermarket one? Reason that I ask is that I have seen only one of the dull, current production ones break, while seeing countless numbers of the other two break....
Soon after I got the gun I installed the ZEV Tech Fulcrum Trigger Ultimate, the trigger spring came with the kit. Here is the spec on the trigger spring from the manufacturer.
Features
28% MORE POWER THEN STOCK, FOR A MUCH LIGHTER TRIGGER PULL AND RELIABLE RESET.
100% AMERICAM AERO-SPACE HIGH STRESS HEAT TREATED AND CRYO STAINLESS MATERIAL.
COMPUTER TESTED RATE ELONGATION.
CLOSED LOOP NO FAIL CONECTION HOOKS.
99.99% REPETITION LOAD FEEL. THE SAME TRIGGER PULL EVERY TIME
EXACT O.A.L -+--0.002
Fits all Glock models
I would like to add that I have been very pleased with this trigger kit from ZEV and I have already replaced the spring with another ZEV spring. I took it Sunday to a Steel Challenge shoot and fired 150 or so rounds through it with no problems. Looking at the size of the spring it doesn't surprise me that it broke after 4 thousand streches.
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Shot my Glock 35 at a match Saturday and I had some ok stages but some I couldn't believe the missed shots. When I got home I took it down for a cleaning and found a broken trigger spring. Asked around at the Steel shoot the next day if anyone had seen this happen and some say it would probally go full auto with that spring broken. The gun didn't do that, actually it felt pretty normal the whole day.
So I'm curious if a broken trigger spring would have an effect on accuracy or could it make it possibly go full auto?
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Problem solved with the dpopping of magazines. It turns out that the week prior to the steel shoot I lowered the holster on my CR Speed rig. I didn't realize that the magazine release was hitting the holster. The old magazine release did have some wear on it which made it easy to holster the gun. After I installed the new release it was very hard to holster the gun. Thats when I realized the release was hitting the holster.
Thanks for all the help,
Joe
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Thanks Grumpy, by the way I also noticed when the magazine fell it also felled to load the next round. So that tells me it was falling during the recoil.I'll replace the sping and let ya'll know.
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My gun started dropping the magazine while shooting today at a Steel Shoot. It never did this before today. The gun is less than a year old with about 4 thousands rounds fired through it. I tried diffent magazines, tried shooting with half full magazine and even removed the Speed feed Magwell and it still fell out. My feeling is that the magazine release is worn or maybe the magazine release spring is weak. Has anyone seen this before? By the way you could not pull the mag out by hand after inserting it, only by the release button so it was inserted all the way.
Thanks in advance
Joe
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Just recently got into reloading. I calculated for every 1000 bullets loaded it saves me a little over 200 dollars (that is using all used brass). Since I started reloading I been shooting 250 rounds a week (actually weekends). When I was buying the bullets usually no more than 100 a week. So in my opinion I think it's worth it.
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Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.
Thanks to my friend who owns a metal fab company we were able to add a small weld to the kkm barrel. After looking at the slack in the slide we figured it would take anywhere between .005 and .015 inches to tighten it up.
After the tig weld with stainless steel filler rod we set it in his verticle mill and shaved it down to .840 inches.We then checked for proper fit. Not even close at .840 and we knew it but tried it anyway. We then shaved off another .010 inches making it .830 and the slide was tight but would close. We finally got it right at .827 inches. Thats .010 more than the stock kkm barrel.
I haven't shot it yet but I can tell you there is no slack in the slide and the trigger pull has a noticeable improvement. Don't know what the actual trigger pull is but with the ZEV tech fulcrum trigger and the slide tighting it feels like 2 lb pull. Very pleased with the feel and can't wait to shoot it.
Here's a picture of our work
Let us know to if there was a noticable increase in accuracy. As i inquired earlier would this be worth doing with a stock glock barrel? Just wondering/considering it for a future project.
Got a chance to shoot the gun yesterday and a little today. As far as accuracy, and keeping in mind I'm not a marksman it didn't impress me to much. Here's a picture of a target shot at 15 yards (slow fire)
On another note, the gun has some problems now it didn't have before. After shooting 150 to 200 rounds it failed to properly feed about 20 rounds. They would hang up on the ramp or get partially in the chamber before hanging. I thought it might be the recoil spring so I changed it with a 15 pound spring. A couple I could get to seat by hittng the rear slide but some wouldn't go. Another thing that started happing today was the slide would close when inserting a magazine. Two ill affects I think of the modifacation to the lock up lug.
The slide might be to tight, I think I'll try and shave off a couple thousands and retry. Any advice would be appreciated as well.
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Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.
Thanks to my friend who owns a metal fab company we were able to add a small weld to the kkm barrel. After looking at the slack in the slide we figured it would take anywhere between .005 and .015 inches to tighten it up.
After the tig weld with stainless steel filler rod we set it in his verticle mill and shaved it down to .840 inches.We then checked for proper fit. Not even close at .840 and we knew it but tried it anyway. We then shaved off another .010 inches making it .830 and the slide was tight but would close. We finally got it right at .827 inches. Thats .010 more than the stock kkm barrel.
I haven't shot it yet but I can tell you there is no slack in the slide and the trigger pull has a noticeable improvement. Don't know what the actual trigger pull is but with the ZEV tech fulcrum trigger and the slide tighting it feels like 2 lb pull. Very pleased with the feel and can't wait to shoot it.
Here's a picture of our work
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the flat to the right of B is where you want to build it up. It is the part that rests on your area "A" when locked up. Your B is the pivot where the barrel "links" down.
I will occasionally laser weld that area on striker guns.
talking about triggers,
a glocks a glock. A nice 3.5# trigger with a good wall is all most shooters will ever need.
Your right Mike, was up late last night looking at it and thought that was the lock up area. If I look down through the trigger area (without trigger installed) I can see how it hooks up. Looks like a little less than half of that area to the right of b is in contact with the block. Would welding just that small area do or the entire top of that base?
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Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.
I appreciate everyones input, thanks. M109R your suggestion sounds like something I would try. Could you verify my thought on where to add the weld. Would it be in the area marked A or would b be better? Also would .005 to .015 inches be about the right amount of build up?
P.S. Guys that's not rust on my gun parts it's just bad photography
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I read in the book "The Glock in Competition" where you can improve the trigger pull by reducing the clearance on the slide where the botom frame rail touches the top rail. To do this they used a hammer. To me that looks a bit iffy. It makes since reducing some slack out of the slide to keep the top slide from raising when the trigger is pulled but the hammer job doesn't sound smart. Anyone else tried this and if so how did you do it and did it improve the trigger pull?
You peen the slide over the area of the metal frame rail inserts
very carefully and when you get a tight slide to rail fit use a lapping compound ( FP10 & JP BORE LAPPING COMPOUND )
until you get nice smooth fit back and forth with no up and down movement.
When I think of peenning a piece of metal I think a punch and hammer is used. In the book it described (with picture) using a hammer only. The hammer only seems pretty crude in precission. Was he/you using a punch and hammer to do this? I was thinking using a hydraulic press. You could regulate it I think much better. But I know that the slide itself is of a very hard metal and I would be concerned it may break the thin slide rail. Would still like to know was there much of an improvement in the trigger pull after the modification. My trigger pull as it stands is pretty good (installed a ZEV Ultimate trigger kit) but compared to a 1911 it still is a bit muchy. Any advice in adjusting that ZEV trigger would also be appreciated.
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I read in the book "The Glock in Competition" where you can improve the trigger pull by reducing the clearance on the slide where the botom frame rail touches the top rail. To do this they used a hammer. To me that looks a bit iffy. It makes since reducing some slack out of the slide to keep the top slide from raising when the trigger is pulled but the hammer job doesn't sound smart. Anyone else tried this and if so how did you do it and did it improve the trigger pull?
(Clang,clang,bang)
My congrats go out as well especially Aaron Vezorak who took me out in the first shoot off round. He then went on to win it all! After getting knocked out I had a little time to record some of the shoot out, here's a link hope it works. If it don't let me know.
Black Bullet Intl and TiteGroup
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
Been using MG 165gn .40 cal CMJ FN bullets (COL of 1.130) with TiteGroup powder in my Glock 35 with an aftermarket KKM barrel. I love MG bullets but cost is a factor so I'm going to try Black Bullet Intl. I have a handfull of 180gn BB with two different powders on hand. One being TiteGroup which I now use in my Glock with the MG bullets and some HS-6 powder.
Does anyone have load data I could use to get started loading a 180gn BBI using TiteGroup or HS-6 with a COL of 1.130. Hodgdon starting load data for 180gn HDY XTP uses 4.2gn of TiteGroup or 6.1gn of HS-6 with a COL of 1.125. It was suggested to start 10% below and work up when using lead moly coated bullets. Any suggestions on this load or a better powder would be appreciated.
Thanks,