Bjay
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Posts posted by Bjay
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2 minutes ago, Adamj said:
It's what I use in my JP. They will clog up your comp faster than FMJ and plated bullets if that matters to you.
Yup it does matter
i guess plated is better options?
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Anyone tried blue bullets for 9mm pcc?
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Fesh 16" rdb
Zeroed scope using factory prime ammo.then shot PD hp both 115 and 124
Its pretty abvious barrel likes the lighter 115 better?
Do you guys see anything interesting with the groups? Which load should i re test and maybe tweak a little.
They were all loaded using progressive LNL
All at 50 yards using scope
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2 hours ago, Nolan said:
If the barrel is threaded 1/2-28 and the muzzle brake is overtightened while timing it, this can happen. There's only .05" wall thickness at the root of the threads.
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/275592-9mm-barrelsand-timing-muzzle-brakes/
Nolan
How much will affect accuracy?
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2 hours ago, Dwbsig said:
I thought that treatment was only a couple thousand deep?
Yes but it also a process that hardened a steel..chrome moly is even harder than stainless.
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Heres a follow up looks after 100rds today...
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41 minutes ago, Dwbsig said:
Yeah I was kinda thinking maybe the brake got over tighten and stretched the metal just enough to make a circular low spot which is causing the leading.
With chrome moly salt bath nirited barrel? I highly doubt that unless barrel was orange heated
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31 minutes ago, Nolan said:
How is the muzzlebrake attached? Threaded, then pinned and welded or ??? If it's threaded 1/2-28, they may have pinched the barrel when they tightened the brake before pinning and welding.
Nolan
I pinned it myself..
It was timed and contour by my smith
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Hmmm i tried jb compound even soak it with hoppes 9
Scrubbed it with boy copper wrapped on bronze brush..the ring got larger in width?
Is it possible that ring is a exposed barrel steel.from nitrited coat bore?
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2 minutes ago, copterdrvr said:
Actually, that's a pretty darned good guess!!!!
If it's not a barrel ring, what the heck else could it be.
I myt switch to blue bullets or any full coated lead from now on
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16 minutes ago, copterdrvr said:
That makes it even stranger to me to think that the bullet makes it 14 inches down the barrel and THEN leaves a very narrow ring of lead in it...................
IMO its the brake that causing it..the pressure behind the bullets before leaving muzzle..once hitting muzzle brake wall its the ring of pressure/fire including carbon and left over residue ie. Melted lead?
Its the only explanation i could come up with lol
Like how suppressors got dirty?
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12 minutes ago, copterdrvr said:
This.
That is a heck of a weird place to have a lead deposit and in that specific pattern, ESPECIALLY if there isn't any lead anywhere else in the barrel.
Its not handgun..its PCC 14.5" with brake
1 hour ago, SteelCityShooter said:I would expect leading to occur nearer the chamber where the pressure and temperature are much higher. However, if the bullet you are using is really having the exposed base eroded, there are several options:
1. A fully enclosed jacket bullet like Montana Gold's "CMJ" (Complete Metal Jacketed) which has a brass disc covering the base of the bullet as well as the regular jacket.
2. Plated bullets as these have no exposed lead at all.
3. Polymer coated bullets which are also fully covered.
I wanna go back for more load dev.
Should i completely remove lead before anything?
What solvent can i use?
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49 minutes ago, SteelCityShooter said:
I would expect leading to occur nearer the chamber where the pressure and temperature are much higher. However, if the bullet you are using is really having the exposed base eroded, there are several options:
1. A fully enclosed jacket bullet like Montana Gold's "CMJ" (Complete Metal Jacketed) which has a brass disc covering the base of the bullet as well as the regular jacket.
2. Plated bullets as these have no exposed lead at all.
3. Polymer coated bullets which are also fully covered.
I wanna go back for more load dev.
Should i completely remove lead before anything?
What solvent can i use?
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Ive only been shooting jacketed with my cmmg 9mm pcc..with rear lead exposed i was told that these are leads. Close to the muzzle end
How do i get rid of it??
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1 hour ago, zzt said:
This is an example of the type of comp I was referring to above. It is easy to tune your PCC for no dot bounce without a comp. However, it is much harder to do do with really light loads. A comp like this on a 10" barrel will help some with dot bounce, even with 115 PF loads.
These looks like https://brekkecustom.com/index.php/product/pcc-compxtension-6/
I got their 6" on order arriving today
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1 hour ago, zzt said:
If you want a comp to work without suffering the dramatic increase in velocity a slow powder would give in a long barrel, you want something short with a comp and a shroud to bring it to 16". Think the Tron comp, or one of the newer copies.
So everyone already purchased the 3 horizontal port and sales on them slows down..why dont we come out with another brake 3 vertical..and people will buy it again..really JP?
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25 minutes ago, mrd said:
Anyone tried to get the comp working with typical gassy open powders like 3n37 or 3n38? And light bullets? Or is something like that only advantageous for shorter barrels, like 5-8 inches?
I got 14.5 pinned brake and plenty n350 and would like to hear it too
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12 minutes ago, Kokeman said:
I've used Titgroup, Universal, CSB-1 and Autocomp in my pccs. CSB-1 is what I settled on. It is supposed to be equivalent to Universal on the burn rate chart.
I do have 4lb of n330 im thinking getting more powder to try.maybe power pistol or w231?
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So if open COMPENSATED gun works better with slower burning rate powder (n350) vs limited which normally faster power n320 etc.
Does this mean a compensated 9mm pcc say 8-14" barrel should work better with slower powder or the other way around? I normally see load for pcc with med to faster powder
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2 hours ago, jvr said:
For dot bounce reduction. Try balancing your rifle to the mag well or a little further towards the butt stock. It my experience it drives the recoil direction rearward lessening raise and help eliminate nose dive. To me a balanced gun transitions easier. Amazon sells lead wire. 7$.
For us do prs shooting on bolt gun balanced rig to spot your hit/miss is very important..and we start by getting the rifle stable center mass for barricades shooting..
On AR/gas how do we determine if our rifle is in good balance? Or we just go by tuning to our preference
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4 hours ago, ltdmstr said:
I was shooting 124g jacketed w/3.6-3.7g of N320 in a 16" RRA and it ran great once I got the right buffer spring, spacer, etc. dialed in. Basically the same load I run in my 5" 2011. Not sure what the pf was through the rifle, but it was accurate and 100% reliable.
I got 4lb of 330 have you tried them before?
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Im pretty sure barrel length will play pretty big rule...? When picking powder for load combo?
Mine its going to be 16" or maybe ill cut it into 14.5 with pinned brake..
Now, pf wont matter for my purpose since we dont do any competition here.but it will be range practicing speed shooting..
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5 hours ago, zzt said:
I would start with 124s, then try 147s. Load a ladder at 130, 135, 140, 145PF and see what works the best with your buffer/spring combo. Then do the same with the 147s. I started with 147 plated RN, because I had them on hand. I'm about to do the same with the 124s I have coming in. My PCC does not like JHPs, so I had to order some RNs.
Is it accuracy or FTF issues?
I do have a lot of FP 124 135 147 from rmr
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This build is CMMG radial blow back 16"
If that makes any difference
i guess plated is better options?
PCC load blue bullets
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
So i ordered small batch of 147fp and 125rn and im about to break in my brekke SI 10.5" barrel..
My powder options (i got)
TG n320 n330 and SP
maybe someone has identical set up with pet load or just good combo info..im not ready to compete so basically for practice abd plinking?