[Hammer want to chase my slide]

You are overdue for an AD, either fix or get your trigger fixed. Learn how to work on your gun.

[1911 custom work]

Try Limcat in Sparks NV. Lot of Area 2 shooters own his work. I know of him from Norco Running Gun.

[Ready for a progressive Press]

RL550 is an excellent reloader, ammo production is not as fast as a 650 or 1050 that have case feeders and auto index. Consistency reduces variation in OAL and powder throws. I had a prob with Varget (pencil powder) bridging, a friend suggested double bumping the down stroke which solved the blockage at the case mouth. I do this now with flake or ball powders too.

I don't mind self indexing the shell plate, mistakes happen during reloading and I can catch the oops before the next stage. Preloading extra primer tubes will help production rates. Fairly easy to pound out 450 to 500rds/hr.

Get or make a case gauge for each caliber you're reloading for go/no inspection. I make mine from aluminum rod stock and a chamber reamer. Might want a kinetic bullet puller too. I'm using a digital powder scale now, still have a balance beam scale for backup.

Friday nites were reloading/gun tweaking sessions in my garage, lotta coffee, soda and chips thanks to the "War Dept."

[Things You Only Do Once -]

If you RO Junior shooters, mind the compensator blast. It will lift your hat.

[Fundamentals at Speed]

Unless it's a national or world shoot, everything else is practice. Use that relaxed practice image during the match, worry about score after the match. Pre stressing is great for metal, not for mental.

[Slide To Comp Gap]

There should be a small gap at the top of the slide / comp interface, otherwise it causes a bindl as the barrel pivots out of lockup. It will show as a rub mark on the top radius of the slide and compensator faces.

[Mini Milling Machine]

I have a ShopTask, I do all my 'smithing' on this machine. I also spend a lot of time making task specific work holding fixtures. I'm saddled with a 4x6' area. I've learned a lot, and getting better. Most of my 1911 barrel or slide work is cut close, finish by hand. There is no substitute for a real lathe or mill, but good work can be done on a 3 in 1 import with proper set up, tools and patience. You have to work a little harder and smarter, that's all.

[What hammer/sear for first time do-it your selfer?]

I agree with Bill S combination. Dropped in the Extreme sear, Koenig hammer, included the SV disconnector and titanium 3 finger spring. First pull was 28 oz on a Hunter Force Gauge. A little bucking took off 2 oz. STI frame BTW. Called it good.

You mileage may vary, manufacturing variation can wreak havoc on the best parts. I've had trigger jobs take 15 minutes and others 2 evenings. Just the way it is some days.

[Open Gun]

If you go to a Major Match, and one of the God Squad members win an Open Gun. Offer him/her cash for the pistol, they might get froggy. Just a thought.

[Steel Challenge Scoring Program]

Email Nelson Dymon at www.22rimfire.org, he should have one.

[Sear Spring Replacement]

DJ,

I had to assume a worst case, you didn't mention tweaking the 3 finger spring so I assumed (yes, I know how to spell it ) you didn't know how. No other posters gave you direction to 'tune' the sear spring.

Ask your shooting buddies, most become self reliant than become tied to a particular 'smith. It is a pretty simple procedure to learn, better demonstrated than described. Learning more about your toy, gives you the edge to repair on the fly. Blowing a big match stage, is better than becoming a spectator. Match fees are looking like ski lift ticket prices.

My apologies DJ, did not mean to offend nor sound sarcastic.

[Timing Problem?]

Say KOC,

Ask BarSto how much they want to fit a barrel if you can send them the pistol. Just as a point of reference, or last resort. Every gunsmith barrel I've seen, comes short chambered. I finish the chamber by hand, lotta lube, never turn the reamer counter clockwise and go slow. After fitting the barrel, I also make an aluminum case gauge with the same reamer. Good luck Coach, hope your 'smith stands behind his work.

[Do You Sort By Headstamp?]

Case gauge is a must if using mystery brass, found some roll sized brass (38 Super) that would hold the slide just out of battery (0.922" case length). Barrel chamber was cut to 0.895".

[Sear Spring Replacement]

Well, it sounds like dajarrel just dropped a replacement 3 finger spring in and expected the same trigger tension. If this is the case, dajarrel - go visit your local gunsmith, watch and learn. Or, read this and may other 1911 related forums to gain 'tuning' knowledge if you wish to 'self medicate' your shooting toy. Otherwise, all these posts do him no good. I know many of you have taken a new SA or 1911 owner aside and tweaked the 3 finger spring for a quickie trigger job (some come out pretty good!) to help a newbie along. Perhaps dajarrel is lurking this post, but I haven't seen his return.

re: 1 lb trigger jobs, they can be done - very carefully. Every trigger component becomes critical to a safe trigger job. sincityshooter has the same component list that lives in my open gun. Fact is, we drop the same components in a friend's open gun and got a safe 26 oz. trigger pull with out trying. Doesn't mean this combo will work for you, but good parts make a trigger job easier (barring out of spec pin hole placement).

Your mileage may vary, don't endanger those around you.

[Removing Material From A Mag Release]

If the mag tube is dragging, only remove enough for the mag tube to clear when the mag release is depressed. Altering the uplock step that retains the mag tube will cause feeding probs. This is caused by excessive angular transition between mag lip release and barrel feed ramp. Usually the top round will ram into the feed ramp and cause a stutter or fully stall the slide. Mag releases made from soft material (delrin or soft MIM) will wear out in time (esp if you practice reloads with a weighted mag)

HTH

[Stoning A Sear "at An Angle"]

Be careful cutting hammer hooks deeper, causes the sear to rotate a little more to fully engage the hammer hooks. Might cause a thumb safety issue, like tap the trigger, thumb down safety and hammer falls. Real interesting during a holster draw. Over worked sears get shorter and cause this prob too. Remember, I might be your RO next time, I like my feet.

[Timing Problem?]

I'm a little curious, usual poof load powder smudging soots the case mouth evenly. Yours is biased heavily to one side. Suggest before you chamber a round, mark the brass at 12 o'clock. AFter firing, compare the soot mark to your chamber. If the soot mark moves around, no big. If consistently in one spot, check the chamber for damage or an off center chamber. Honestly, sooty brass went away for me when loading above 3.2 gr of WW231 under a 200 gr HG68. 4.1 gr of Bullseye should seal the brass to the barrel chamber.

Hodgdon's Clays is a good clean burning powder, consistent and meters well (Dillon powder drop).

[Bull Barrel]

gunner40sw

lkytx is correct. As long as the slide length has not been altered, reinstalling a bushing barrel is not a prob. The relief or step removed from the recoil spring tunnel prevents the cap from slipping thru the slide when using a GI spring guide. Go forth, and shoot more.

[Huge News For Super 1050 Owners]

Thanks for the good news!

[Drop In Trigger Job?]

Have you tried adjusting the 3 finger spring?

[Steel Challenge Dot Type]

I like Steve A's advice, stay with the same optics. Try to keep your weight down, Riden. Swing weight is more critical for Rimfire Steel the an IPSC hoser course. At a local indoor range, the owner set up a combined Rimfire Steel/IPSC match. Helped my IPSC shooting, a lot. BTW, if you're near the So Cal area, Nelson Dymond (http://www.22rimfire.org/) is planning to resurrect the Rimfire Steel Challenge match. Fair match fee, lotta fun, and a great prize table.

HTH