dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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Dont forget to look at ES as well. If your shooting long range rifle its often more important than the SD and for LR rifle all i look at is ES.
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Take a look at natchez shooters, Champions choice or champion shooters supply. Most of the places that specialise in High Power shooting stuff will have a better price on sierra match bullets. Nozler bullets work almost as well and cost less. Natchez has nozlers in bulk for about half that of sierras.
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Just got my 38 super barrel and slide. It was adversited a fully supported and i have some question about that. Attached are pics of a case in the barrel and a case with a green mark on what hangs out. At a minimum i would like to shoot minor with this barrel. My smith advised against it but i would like some other oppinions.
Thanks.
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I have a hornady .40 feed die and a piece of copper pipe fits into the top 3/8 id i think. Its stout enough to handle bullets inside. As I shoot 90% lead i have not played with it all that much. It does work better with at least 5-6 bullets in the tube/die as the weight helps push them out. I have some lead bullets without a groove on the way and im going to try again with lead.
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I would be happy with easy adjust knobs on the powder bars. There might be a way to make a primer hopper that flips and fills tubes but there might be issues with the primers blowing up.
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I would reccomend H4350. Thats what D Tubb used to shoot in this .260 semi when he shot a .260 SR-25. I would give RL17 if it was me. I think the semi big guns have come along way but depending on who did your barrel and the size of the gas port there might be some issues. Varget would be a little on the fast side for 142's.
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I have a girud trimmer and its expensive. Its very fast and works well. Its likley that if you dont have a good chamfer you will shave bullets; how bad depends on how bad the bur is. Its possible to shave enough to cause problems chambering ammo. A possible solution is to use a Lyman M die in the station after your 1200 trimmer. It can be set to bell the neck ever so slightly as to negate the chamfer on the inside or smooth it out.
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I have a 650 and 550. I dont think that you can load anything longer than .30-06 on a 650, but it might be as short as .308. If you look at the cost of reloading .223: 100 rds about .12-.15, or 12.00-15.00 per 100 you save about 18.00-15.00 over new factory and your reloads will likley shoot better. If you look at reloading .300 win mag cost with premieum match bullets its closer to .40 per round or 40.00 per 100.00. Factory match 300 win mag ammo is pricy stuff at 45.00-50.00 per 20, so you can load 100 rds of match ammo for the cost of one box of factory -brass cost. Its the same way with loading 9mm, you do save quite a bit over factory 9mm ammo but you save tons of money reloading .357 or .44 mag over factory ammo.
Hope this helps.
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The easy answer is buy a sample of each to test with the same load. I would reccomend 24 RL15 and a 7 1/2 in trimmed cases. More HP shooters shoot sierras than all others combined. twist rate is a mute point on 68 vs. 69 bullets. A 1/9 will stabilise both bullets.
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Not sure if you are braging or have an issue. In general, with most new brass, you should size new cases the first time. You might have to trim them to get them all to a consistent length. In many ARs you CAN neck size only. I would not reccomend it as your primer pockets will open up before your necks split. With a clean chamber you should be able to insert a clean sized case or loaded round and tap on the base to "seat it", turn the rifle muzzle up and your case, or loaded ammo should fall out. If it does not you need to size it more or seat the bullets so they dont stick in the throat.
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I have found that rem 7.5 primers are the most consistent with a variety of powders and 69+gn bullets out of all my service rifles. 24-24.5 RL15 is about as standard of a load that there is for 69-80g bullets for shooting NRA HP. You can get closer to the 24.5 with winchester brass. Mil brass is a little on the heavy side so thats closer to 24g. If my guns will not shoot with a specific bullet and 24-24.5 RL15 then ill look for another bullet or barrel for what its worth from a high master SR shooter. If i had to pick one ar powder it would be RL15 for 55-82g bullets. I shoot wolf primers and surplus powder with 55 FMJs for most 3 gun stuff out to 200 yds to save money.
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Lighter bullets drop less. Heavy bullets buck the wind better. 99.9% of all AR-15 HP shooters at camp perry are shooting at least 69 BTHP bullets at 300+ yds. Very few shoot anything lighter at 200.
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Im away from the house so i dont have the specifics but in my win 70 HV with 53 HPs a ladder test from 23.6-24.4 or so told me that this was a powder insensitive load. All rounds at 100 were well within 1" with little neet upward steps in velocity. I would think that for 55 fmjs you can save some money with cheaper powders.
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147L in a 9mm with 3.2 solo is my go to load in a M&P 5" for a while now and the future. I will look into molly and Bayou bullets for future use as i have no more at the moment. Shoots well in my gun as far as i can tell. Never shot it for groups off a bench but it will hold a zone or 0 at 25 yds.
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3.2 Solo 1000 with naked lead 147 in a 5" makes 130 PF. Several shooters here in the area shooting this same load or close to it.
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I have had much better success with all the 77's than the 69's. If you want to spend the money Berger and Lapua make some great 77's. From shooting of highpower I can tell you that there is a real difference with wind drift at 300 yds between the 69's and 77's to the tune of about 2.5 to 3" or about one MOA from a 20" DCM gun.
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I already have the slide and fitted barrels. All I need is the frame and guts so im a little concerned how that might be a money pit. Understand about the .38 super barrel, that it might not be fully supported as it does not have the built in ramp.
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I just bought a slide with the two fitted barrels, bushings, springs and mags. I should think thats the hard part of things provided the slide fits on the frame...I know thats no small thing. Caspian lists a .45 or 38 super/.40 frame. Barrels are non ramped, fully supported so i suppose the ramps might be a little different between the frames.
jon
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winchester ranger 127 +P+ should make it.
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Caspian has gov model ss 1911 frames that i intend to buy for a 38 super/.40 upper. I believe there is a difference between .45 and .38super/.40 frames so i know i need to get the correct one. Other than a .38 super ejector is there anything special to do or watch for to build off one of these frames?
Thanks.
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I have had success with 125 and 147 lead 9mm bullets (.356) in my S&W 686 and 15. I could not tell a difference between the way they shot and the .358 L 158's at 25 yds. I just wanted to see what happened. I roll crimped them into the lead, very light, without an issue.
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I have a 38 super slide on the way and indend to build a gov model ss 1911 with it. What are the common problems associated with this deisgn. I believe i have to get a 38 super/40 caspian frame with 38 super ejector. Any help would be good help. Thanks.
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You could try .355-6 lead bullets in your .357. My S&Ws .38 and .357's shoot fine with 147 and 125 Lead 9mm bullets which are .356 i think.
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You can do it in 9mm with some 147 whatevernonlead bullets. Look for a low heat powder in a small dose to keep the gas down and the can cool. You will get better results with your can. I believe single base powders will run cooler. I would look at SOLO 1000. I tried some autocomp and its quite gassy and with 147s at the same velocity the solo loads sounded better.
Disturbing Chrono Results
in Chronograph Equipment & Techniques
Posted
I would say that you got one or more bad readings that factored into the average. If you can look at results and remove ones that are way too low as to indicate a bad reading prior to computing the averace, SD and ES. Depending on sun and clouds i have to weed several out for the average.