wirebrush

I have a 627 that came with slotted porting. Without changing the barrel, cutting it off, etc., do you think it would be possible for a gunsmith to somehow fill the porting so that it would be legal for USPSA? Has anyone done this before? Any ideas?

Chet, My email is: ross4@slb.com I look forward to seeing the pictures... Thx, M. Ross

I got tired of changing the skateboard tape on my Miculek wood grips and decided to try a different approach. I sanded off the old finish back to bare wood and then got a small pint can of varnish. I added a good amount of the stair grit that you can buy from Home Depot for painting stairs and added this to the can of varnish. I mixed it up well per the instructions and then used a small foam brush to paint it on the grips. I think I also applied a second coat. The advantage is that it somewhat retains the old wood finish appearance and it allows you to get the grit into curved areas where skateboard tape does not want to stay. The coating has lasted well through several years of continuous shooting and looks as good as the day I applied it. I think it gives more grip than the skateboard tape.

I have been using a Blade-Tec Kydex holster for competition but am growing tired of the scratching to the gun, etc. Does someone make an IDPA approved leather holster that is a copy of the Kydex style straight speed holster to fit a Model 610 (4")?

I am in the process of developing a new load for IDPA with my 625 revolver and was wondering if there is an optimum combination to reduce felt recoil as much as possible. That is, should you use a light wt bullet and higher velocity or heavier bullet and slower velocity? As the revolver has no porting this does not enter into the question. Am I better off to use a 185, 200 or 230 bullet with the appropriate velocity to meet the 125 PF requirement. Can anyone give a recommenation for a clean burning 45 ACP powder made here in the US. I am tired of hunting down VV powder and have experienced a fair amount of unburned residue with them.