Jonathan Taliani
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Posts posted by Jonathan Taliani
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Have you tried the thin CZC Aluminum or VZ G10 grips? If not, they're worth a look. They should get you there on weight and provide a great hold IMO. My preference is the VZ Diamondbacks or Tactical Diamonds.
Another option to shave a bit of weight is changing your safeties to the standard SP01 or thin Shadow variants.
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*** BullsEye (BE) vs TiteGroup (TG) vs Unique ***
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All three are fast burning powders, all have illustrious track records and all are pretty versatile.
If my intention is to load 45acp & 9mm Luger for competition, which of these are consistently more accurate?
I haven't found one to be inherently more accurate than the other. Different guns, bullets, OAL, etc all perform differently. That being said, of the list, I'm a fan of Titegroup.
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So it would just be better to go with an Svi grip.
SVI recommends against using the aluminum grips unless it is a seldom fired gun (see their FAQ). I haven't seen any negative reports about their steel grips.
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Really? Really? With all the reports of cracking they didn't add any material? Really? Their solution was to make it looser? Really?
In case you can't tell, it kind of boggles my mind, lets hope it works for them.
I was quite surprised by the response as well. The claim was that the *ONLY* issue with the old grips was that people were just "hammering them on" and it caused them to crack. The problem is that many reputable gunsmiths have fit these grips and some of them still cracked. I hope that the gentleman I spoke with was just misinformed about the new grips and that other updates have occurred. In either case, STI is a phenomenal company and stands behind their products (but it would be nice to avoid problems in the first place). I am eager to see the feedback on the new grips once they are in greater circulation.
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Check out page 8-9: RL 550 Manual. The picture on the bottom right of page 8 illustrates the part. The first paragraph on page 9 addresses exactly this issue.
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I'm not sure about the 550, but on the XL650 there is a set screw in the left side of the mainshaft to prevent this from happening.
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There are a number of threads detailing cracking issues with the old STI aluminum grips. According to a sales rep at STI, the new grips have not been redesigned (somewhat disheartening) but the tolerances were loosened up to make it closer to a drop-in part. The new grips are also now anodized from the factory.
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Congratulations!!!
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It's my intent to video the whole process as best I can from start to finish and create a little youtube series of "how to build an open gun" which will help others get an idea of what it takes.
Coming from someone who knows virtually nothing about building a 2011 from scratch, that would be amazing to see. Best of luck in your build and can't wait to see the videos.
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Typically plated bullets use lead load data. All that really means is starting with a lower initial charge. Ultimately, it is most prudent to work your way up whether using lead or jacketed data. Actual results are always going to vary depending on your component and gun combo.
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I wear it when it rain, it keep rain out of glasses and eyes.
Same thing here. It makes a huge difference at keeping your lenses somewhat clear when it's raining.
I normally wear a hat at matches to keep the sun off of my head, but typically take it off before the stage. I NEVER wear hats in day to day life and find them to be a distraction when shooting. To avoid the brass behind the glasses issue, I try to keep the frames pretty close to my forehead.
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If you are unable to work it out with Lone Wolf, I have had great luck with my Jager strikers. They are more expensive but they are durable, make a crisp break, and have an extended tip for added insurance. Good luck!
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Looks like they are stainless should I do it by hand or is the dremel ok?
Before you start polishing, you may want to confirm that they are stainless and not hard chromed. I've seen some butchered hard chrome parts that were thought to be stainless.
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Any idea how many trigger pulls you had on it?
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No. Not sure whether there is a "Pre B" SP-01. I have only heard of "Pre B" 75 & 85 -- I could be wrong, though.
I haven't either, but covering all bases. I'm not sure if they made them or not. Anybody?
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Good going on the swap!
Was it the factory TRS, the CZC new style TRS, or a CGW lightened TRS that broke?
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Firstly let me thank Brian E. for wading in with his link to XL650 support info, it's very much appreciated. Also everyone else who's responded with help or support I thank you. Ok today I'm not reloading, what I did instead was read the manual thoroughly, watch the Dillon XL650 video and then I went back to my press and correctly readjusted everything, the shellplate, the slide cam pin, etc. to factory recommendations. Then I took the non Dillon lockrings off of my Redding Decap/Resize and Seating dies as well as the lockring from my Lee FCD and replaced all with the 1" Dillon lock rings and readjusted all of the dies correctly and locked them all down. I made sure everything was good and clean everywhere on the press as well. Next, I learned yesterday how the primer pickup tube worked perfectly AFTER I ran a couple of clean patches through it, so I also dismantled the primer magazine and ran a couple patches through it. I then put a drop or two of Wilson's Ultima Lube on the main pin underneath the priming advance wheel and cycled that by hand using the lever 20 times or so and now it's running noticably smoother. I'm going to add a bit of wheel bearing grease to the parts that are supposed to have that lubricant and that's it for today. Why? Because I only have the press bolted down using the two rear bolt holes as a temporary measure until my Dillon XL650 specific strong mount comes in today or tomorrow and I think that for this unit to work to it's best potential it really neads a good anchoring so, I'm not going to go any further with loading till then. Also, I dismantled 6 bullets that weren't seated correctly after my first teardown of the machine. I'll just start the primered cases at station two and finish them up before I load the primer magazine. I also dismantled 5 more that were dummy loads I used when setting up my dies and the powder funnel/expander. I'm getting very familiar with the press as I go along and I think before long I'm going to be whizzing through the brass and bullets without much trouble at all. The 54 rounds I ran initially yesterday were completed in probably a 15 minute uninterrupted string of reloading while I was taking my time really. So, before tomorrow I'll surely know more about running one of these correctly and hopefully not have repeats of the issues I've dealt with so far. I can totally see that it's been operator error all along causing the minor problems I've had so far. This is the fun part though, I do like a good challenge. Didn't really see one coming but I sure as heck do now and it is a good one!
Reading and fully understanding the manual/video is an often overlooked but very helpful first step. Many things don't require actually reviewing product manuals, but IMO it relieves a TON of headache with new presses.
That is an excellent decision to wait until you have your press firmly mounted. If you review threads detailing issues, it is frequently due to an unstable press or bench. This can cause everything from casefeeder problems, smashing brass at Station 1, priming issues, etc. Dillon presses in general, and the XL650 in particular, really need a rock solid platform to function at their best.
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Might have to get one of these
The sooner you do it, the less you will regret waiting.
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If you are saying it is standard "B" model SP01 with the firing pin block taken out, then it is not Production legal. As yoshidaex mentioned, if it is a "Pre-B" or Shadow model and never had a firing pin block, then you are good to go.
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Thanks for the link, the plastic handle is the only thing I don't care for on the 1050
Same thing here. I tried it for a while after getting my 1050 (had the aluminum on the 650) and just couldn't bring myself to like it. It's amazing how much different the press/handle feels after making the change.
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Why do I need to use a shock buff?
Simply put...you don't.
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I've spent decades using a Lyman turret press for loading pistol cartridges. I'm only new to owning a Dillon 650 and the only regret I have is why the hell didn't I buy it a long time ago.
My sentiments exactly. I had this same experience with every Dillon I have purchased. (SDB, XL650, and finally Super 1050) I really don't think you can go wrong with the XL650. It is an extremely capable and great all-around press. Bear with some potential growing pains as you become familiar with the change and it will pay dividends. Enjoy!
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That is an excellent setup and great looking products! I've been spoiled by my XL650 and then Super 1050, but would have probably kept my SDB if these products had been around back then. It looks like this company is providing options that allow the use of a very reasonable press while still having some of the bells and whistles of the higher priced models.
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Is Dillon selling just the aluminum handle to replace the plastic handle?
Pat
Yep. Brian sells this option too: Roller Handle. It's a worthwhile investment in my book. I'm not sure why Dillon doesn't just include the aluminum handle on the 1050 to begin with.
Custom molded ear plugs
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
Man, I wish our audiologists offered those kind of prices. When I called around a couple years ago, they wanted $140-200 for a basic set. Luckily I found a somewhat local guy that makes them for around $80 (he makes the mold and sends them to a lab).