jimbullet
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Posts posted by jimbullet
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So I have something similar and wondered what did you end up doing? As I am wondering what to do with mine.
Im thinking to either sand it (not sure what that would do except hide it from my sight maybe so I dont think about it), or leave it alone but the crack could continue on? If it does break off, doesn't that cause the extractor to bend downwards then might affect extraction of empty cases?
Also noticed that I may have some sharp edges forming (where arrow is) Im thinking to sand paper that but not sure if that would do any good. I dont even know why it has formed those sharp edges in the first place.
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On 4/13/2023 at 9:38 AM, kurtm said:
My bet is you are lifting your eyes/head to see where the shot is going. This unconscious lift will cause the shot to go high. Really concentrate on follow through and reacquire the sights after every shot and see what happens. This is the most common cause of shooting high on steel, after all it's fun to watch the steel fall. By lifting your head your eyes say.... Hey recenter that sight and the muzzle comes up and we don't even know we are.
I checked this out today and it seems that Im not actually looking above my sights. I did a slower engagement on steel and what I found was I was consistently hitting about 4 inches up when engaging steel.
I had to compensate aim for the lower part of the stand to actually hit the steel plate out at about 15-20 meters.
In having said that, the next stage with paper only at around 12 meters, it was fairly centering with all A's 3-4 inches grouping - mind you this I was gunning for speed so the groups are slightly bigger. So maybe heeling then (confused?), so how do you cure that? But if Im heeling why is it on paper fairly at the center?
This has me totally confused.
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22 hours ago, kurtm said:
My bet is you are lifting your eyes/head to see where the shot is going. This unconscious lift will cause the shot to go high. Really concentrate on follow through and reacquire the sights after every shot and see what happens. This is the most common cause of shooting high on steel, after all it's fun to watch the steel fall. By lifting your head your eyes say.... Hey recenter that sight and the muzzle comes up and we don't even know we are.
Thanks for the input. I'll check this out on the weekend as well. I do find myself shifting eye focus so I will keep this in check
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On 4/6/2023 at 3:37 PM, asierra350 said:
What holster are you running with the 5.4 and 5.7?
you could use open holster systems such as Double Alphas, Guga Ribas similar to those used by open shooters
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1 hour ago, Pmatte1 said:
No idea never looked into why. But it’s a great shooting gun. Same springs and ammo side by side with the 5.4 I think it’s a little flatter shooting. I like it
Did you have the original plastic grips or did you have steel grips added? I was told that it felt front heavy with the plastic grips but not too certain whether that was an issue. I have my DVC with the plastic grip and didn't feel any front heaviness so wasn't sure if that was the case with the radical?
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In your opinion, does the Radical dip down due to the front being heavier compared to say your Staccato?
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Anyone having experience with the Bul radical? I've seen a few YouTube marketing videos and the pistol looks promising but I want to hear from those who have been using it for some time and get some thoughts on it. Is the front too heavy? Did you need to reduce recoil spring as a result compared to the usual 2011 bull barrel platforms? Did you get hammer bites? Is the plastic grip... well too plastic and slippery?
Any thoughts would be appreciated before I try to get one to replace my trusted STI DVC.
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4 hours ago, Joe4d said:
Can stay in the charts... Just looked at Hodgdon, 180 gr bullets over w231 make 177pf , and thats at short OAL.
I should have been more clearer. The charts does provide loads that will fall within the likes of 177 pf but the issue with those is they are all short OAL which are factory SAAMI specs that has never really fed well with 2011s, at least not on three of my ones that is. Once I lengthen the OAL, the velocities go down, reducing the power factor. Unfortunately there are no so called factory charts that will give you a long enough OAL.
Maybe I should lower it by 0.1 grain and if I get no less than 983 fps even if I have some go as high as 1000- 1010 fps, perhaps I can call it a day knowing that I won't go below 177 pf I suppose.
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Yes loading longer at 1.185 but this is the thing with major 40 S&W, can't really tell if pressure is way over the charts or still within reason I guess.
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7 hours ago, rifleman777 said:
Interesting thread relative to using SPM primers. I’d dial the powder back a bit closer to 165-170 ish.
I should have said that major PF in IPSC (not USPSA) requires 170 pf so I would be nervous at 170 pf and would like to have some buffer.
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flex in shell plate, combined mainly with mixed brass possibly.
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My load was doing 987 fps, 1011 fps, 1008 fps and 978 fps which gave me a power factor of 179.
I started to use CCI magnum primers as it was the only one available in our local store and I now average 1021 fps and has gone to 183 pf.
My question is - am I pushing the caliber beyond? I note that most major loads of 40 are not in any book but thought to check if this is still safe as I cannot really measure pressure.
Tempting to dial done the powder charge but I found it to be very accurate and I kinda like the snappy impulse bringing the gun back to battery - which it has a 13 lb recoil spring and its an STI 2011 edge.
I checked the primers if they are flattening and while the dent made by the firing pin is not as deep.
My load is 180 gr 40 S&W, using win231
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I found that reloading while running makes me focus part of my attention on the reload and slows down my running.
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48 minutes ago, IVC said:
Confirm mechanical zero. 20 yards is a good distance so make sure your preferred POA matches POI. Once you have this, it's not the gun, it's you.
Once you know it's you, it's the trigger control. You ARE moving the gun prior to firing the shot and you know this because you confirmed the zero. The gun will shoot where it's pointed. You can watch super slow motion videos, or you can do a quick physics calculations to realize that there isn't enough time for the mass of the gun to get moved much by the time the bullet exits the barrel, and the little movement there is is in line with the barrel. So, if you're off it's because you moved the gun as you pulled the trigger.
Do a simple test. Shoot free hand in "bullseye mode" where you slowly add pressure to the trigger while keeping sites on the target and let the gun shoot whenever it decides to. Try it with weaker or stronger grip, one or two handed. You should see that the gun is hitting exactly where you're keeping it while operating the trigger. If you convince yourself that the gun WILL shoot where pointed, you'll now have a homework to figure out WHAT is causing the movement when you operate the trigger.
I managed to have a quick visit to the range the next day but didn't have enough time and thought to confirm zero by doing some slow fire bull shooting unsupported two hand shooting and the results have confused me even more. Its telling me that the groups are high as I have my front sight right at the bottom of the white patch. But then my groups are a bit wide. This is at 15 meters
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3 hours ago, Rich406 said:
I’ve been shooting an Atlas Artemis this winter. The Artemis has a sight block barrel. I’ve been shooting mostly blue bullets through it. The problem is, I’ve been getting hella lead and coating build up between the barrel crown and the sight block. I’m afraid to really dig at it because I don’t want to damage the barrel crown.
anyone have any tips, or experience with this?
Typically good to just scrub it through with hopes 9 but I understand sometimes lead can be stubborn. What I did previously was to get about 3-5 rounds of fmj ammo and shot it through the barrel. The FMj projectile tends to squeeze the lead out with it. At least most of it. The flip side of this theory which some say is some lead that remain gets pancaked inside the barrel which might make it tougher to remove (?) I haven't experienced that so far or if there is, its too tiny to notice.
But I always thought the FMJ rounds have been very helpful for stubborn lead.
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I've had a few more sessions to check this out over this weekend and have found for some reason recoil has something to do with it. I did one handed shooting (strong and weak hand).
My understanding is that the bullet would have exited the barrel (and is on its way to the target) even before the slide starts to move back and recoil is actually felt. However, what I have found during a strong hand only shooting session is that when the gun recoils and I had a "softer" grip, which means that the gun flips higher (breaking on the wrist), the shots tend to have a higher point of impact.
When I have a stronger grip which meant that the gun flips less and a stronger wrist control, that allows less muzzle flip, the shots actually land spot on to the target.
Does that mean perhaps I am pushing the gun up prior to actually firing causing the shots to go higher?
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8 hours ago, MHicks said:
Shooting irons sights one of the mantras regarding sights is "see what you need to see". You don't need the same refined sight picture at an open 7 yard target as you need for a 30 yard mini popper. Is the same thing true at any level with optics. On a 30 yard mini popper would you focus more on the dot?
I've always thought you need to look at the target and get the dot to come into the field of view. So I doubt if you need to focus on the dot, rather hold it steadier for long shots
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Its 2 but in saying that depending on distance, sometimes I find my shots at 3
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11 hours ago, rowdyb said:
Heeling the gun when not at a rest
I thought about that but I zeroed another 2011 Edge pistol on that same day and also did some off rest shots with it. While the distance I tested this particular gun was only around 10 -12 yards, the hits were spot on from a quick draw to two rounds on target. I'll however keep this in mind (i.e. heeling) in case I'm not being aware when I shift to the 2011 DVC pistol
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13 hours ago, shred said:
You zeroing off a rest? What glasses? Focus shifting front-sight to target-focus?
I've seen all of those cause impact shifts. Best way I found to diagnose is sit there at the range and test all of them one after another while shooting groups off a rest, then stand up and do the same thing to compare.
Shooting a dot also grab it and try to rock it back and forth as mystery-high is often something loose or broken.
Yes I was zeroing off a rest and used my usual shooting glasses (with no prescription grade) I'll check on that next I'm on range re- front sight focus to target focus.
Thanks
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In another stage, it has also done the same thing and was able to capture it on video below. Looking at it, I dont think I am breaking my wrist but open to some thoughts?
Its around the 0.11 seconds of the video
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I've noticed for the past couple of months now that there has been a change in my way of shooting that may be causing shots landing high by about 2-3 inches.
I zeroed my pistol out at 20 yards and at rest, it was consistently hitting right just at the tip of the front sight.
I then when to live fire Ipsc drills and was surprised that when doing two handed grip shooting steel plates out at 20 yards, I placed my sights at the 6 o'clock of the steel plates and yet the shots land 2-3 inches high and I could see the backstop consistently having 3-4 shots land there. I am positive to have seen the sights aligned well. I then began to aim below the steel plate around 2 inches which meant there was a gap between front sight and the steel (when aiming) to be able to hit the steel.
This is where it gets weird. On that same stage I had a steel plate out at 25 and I instinctively aimed at 6 o'clock of the steel and this time it hit it. Now I am thinking, its not the zeroing of the gun but something else.
Usually a flinch would make the shots go low. In this case, its consistently high. Again the weird part is that it consistently grouped 1 inch above the steel plate.
Thoughts on what is happening?
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8 hours ago, GOF said:
No. The dominant eye will always lead. That's the same as with any sighting system. What the different focal point length does is allow the eyes to get a good focus on the closer iron sights at the expense of a slightly blurry more distant target. If your normal prescription for daily distance eye glasses is correct for you, then just shifting the focal distance will work with iron sights. With red dots you'll need to wear your distance glasses.
You mentioned 'dominant eye'. Do you know which of your eyes is dominant in relation to your dominant hand?
Thanks and Yes, I am fortunate to have my right eye being dominant and I'm right handed too.
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20 minutes ago, GOF said:
I'm in the same situation. My solution was to wear my normal distance prescription glasses when shooting red dot sights. With iron sights I had a set of glasses made up with the same prescription, but with the focus point set to 25-inches. The normal focus distance for eye glass prescriptions is 20-feet. But any optical shop can set glasses to any focal distance you want. With the 25-inch focus eye-glasses (the same prescription/solution is often referred to as 'computer glasse ) the sights are sharp, the targets just a slight blur... but I can see lead splashes on a 35-yard Steel Challenge plate, and actually read an auto license plate number at 13-yards.
I'm not the greatest shooter out there, but that two eye-glass system -- one for irons, and one for red dots- got me to A Class in Steel Challenge in RFRO, RFRI, RFPO, and RFPI. I also made M Class in IDPA SSP and BUG with iron sights (and my iron sight glasses) and EX in CDP, SSR, ESP, and CCP.
The extra set of glasses with the same prescription as my regular glasses, but with a 25-inch focus distance, cost me about $90. I consider it money well spent.
both dominant and non dominant eyes have the same focus point for iron sight shooting?
why shooting high?
in Handgun Techniques
Posted
Actually got a question on heeling - If one is heeling the gun, does it consistently form a grouping or will it be inconsistent in the vertical shots? I also found that consistently aiming 4 inches at the stand of the plate allowed me to hit the steel plates 4 out of 4 so I was just wondering if heeling would make the shots group or not.