jimbullet
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Posts posted by jimbullet
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A recent trip to the range using PMC factory ammo it was flawless igniting the rounds. I tried my reloads using cci primers and I’ve never had a light strike for over 400 rounds through. Just a question- among all primers that I could possibly expect to become match ammo, is cci primers the hardest?
Trying to determine if there are primers out there that might be tougher that my current set up might just not work. -
Did some test and I found the factor main spring is 13lbs. Bought replacements to increase this to 15lb. Testing in progress with factory ammo seems working. Interesting that the nominal increase in spring weight has altered trigger pull weight near a quarter of a pound more.
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its interesting that I have not had issues previously with my reloads through my other 2011 DVC but I will recheck the batch just to be sure.
Is there any info out there on what is the factory mains spring weight of a Bul Radical 2011. I couldn't find any on their website.
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31 minutes ago, Guy Neill said:
I expect the factory will fire fine. As stated, firing on a second strike has been due to primers not completely seated. Completely seated defined as the primer anvil legs being against the bottom of the primer pocket.
What loading press are you using?
Dillon SDB
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1 minute ago, Guy Neill said:
Essentially, the only time a primer will fire on a second firing pin strike is that the primer was not completely seated on the first attempt.
Completely seated, primers are commonly 0.003" - 0.005" below flush with the case.
Have you tried any factory ammunition. If so, how did it perform?
I haven’t but I’m going to get some to try. What’s confusing is my reloads have always been reliable for my other 2011 sti which is why I was thinking of ruling out ammo issue but I’ll try some factory just to see.
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11 minutes ago, MikeyScuba said:
Are you wet tumbling?
No I don’t
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3 hours ago, jim vaughan said:
Hi,
Do a simple firing pin strength test. Take a virgin pencil with the base cut off.
Insert it into the barrel and see how high the pencil flies out of the vertical barrel when the trigger falls. 2-3 ft is the norm.
If less replace hardware accordingly. Also remove the mainspring cap retaining pin. Jim
Do you do the pencil test straight up vertically? If yes, the pencil launches only by 1 foot. A full length new pencil just barely cleared the barrel when launched. The rubber was the one facing the firing pin strike. So does that mean it's too weak?
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Sorry my bad. The ones that didn’t work I fed it back into the gun and it fired so I don’t have them anymore. But they did have a small simple on them at first.
primers are cci small pistol.
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These are my ammo. From the looks they seem fine.
im now wondering if I should be changing the main spring but I would have thought factory springs were supposed to be strong.
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These are some of the fired brass. I can’t tell if it’s just ok or not
Rishi, I’ve also checked the hammer at rest is firmly on the slide and there is not movement
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I've got a 2011 Bul radical 5.4 in 40 S&W and it has one of those hammers without a spur so it is flush on the slide at rest.
I'm getting the occasional light strike. Not too many but its once in at least each stage which is annoying.
It already has an extended firing pin and hammer spring is factory, not even 500 rounds through this one. I was told to consider cutting 2-3 coils from the firing pin spring should solve it and was told that the firing pin spring might be too stiff.
I'm looking for thoughts on this as it was the first time I've heard of this solution.
Would appreciate any inputs if this is good advice or bad advice? Firing pin springs dont appear to have any options unlike main springs where there options on different pounds. Im thinking not to change the main spring as this is unlikely worn out given that this came from factory and as mentioned, its only been less than 500 rounds through it.
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Thanks for the response. I tried to push the 18th round in using a maglula and it just won't budge. Only managed to get 17 in. I'll leave them for a a couple of days full and hopefully they do set in
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Anyone own 2011 Bul SAS 40 S&W pistols? Mine came with 126mm mags for IPSC standard. It was advertised as 18 round capacity but when I load it, it appears to only take 17. Just wanted to check if your mags are only 17 as well and if so, did you have to change the spring/ follower? What did you replace it with to get at least 18 in there?
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Hi, it's time for me to change recoil springs on the P320. I've heard in the past that we can use 1911 recoil spring replacements. I understand 1911 springs have a standard and variable recoil spring. Has anyone tried to use the variable spring 12# or 13#? Or am I better off using the standard and non-variable springs?
Thanks.
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22 minutes ago, CHA-LEE said:
I hate to say it buddy but the STI DVC Series of guns usually had HORRID barrel fits. I have seen a bunch of them where the slide lock pin hole in the barrel link was hogged out to a preposterous size which caused the upper lugs to eat each other. Take the barrel out of the slide and look at the leading edges of the lugs in the slide. If they are rounded or chipped then the gun is a lost cause. I have also seen others eat barrel links like candy because the barrel wasn't fit to the slide & frame properly.
I would suggest sending it back to STI to fix their crappy initial build. A properly fit barrel should NEVER break the barrel link. There were a bunch of the STI DVC Series guns which looked like they were built by monkeys. Yours is likely one of them.
you mean the slide stop diameter used is too big? Would then a smaller size diameter fix that? The edges of the upper lugs in the slide I can see is actually shinier than the middle/ center lugs, almost like silvery glass finish. It's not chipped but Im not sure how to tell if they are rounded. But I can't see any scuff marks on the barrel lugs at all.
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Well there is always the first time. You never know if you have to rollover to shoot.
jerry miculek shot revolvers upside down in a demonstration shoot years ago.
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I uncovered that the failure to go to battery is more or less more consistent when the gun is upside down.
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3 minutes ago, shred said:
It's not uncommon for smiths to open the hole on the link a little to fine tune the fit.
good to know but my DIY smithing on doing that may not be up to par so I'll try the #4 first and see (cross fingers it works and just survive decently in the upcoming match)
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thanks ZZT, I will give that a go
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2 hours ago, sauza45 said:
Check the slide stop for wear or bent.
Thanks, I've checked it by using both the old slide stop and a spare new one I had and in both instance, same results.
I've taken the caliper out as well and measured the barrel link (broken and new) and actually they are both the same width too.
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So as an update, I managed to get a 3.5 link, installed it and what I found was the following:
1. Initial hand cycling it was all fine until I point the downwards and the gun is not going into battery (it hasn't dont that before)
2. Tested to feed dummy rounds - racking it real quick, letting the slide go, it will feed
3. Racking and slowing down slightly the slide but not necessarily trying to stall it, it's now showing signs of failing to feed. Previously not doing that as well.
I do the test which is push the muzzle against the table and the slide stop lever hanging a bit out to see whether its riding on the link or not and noticed that in this position, the slide stop is not totally loose which now suggest that it is riding the new link. Strangely I did this test years ago and this pistol passed where the slide stop was fairly loose and only tightened when pistol is in full battery.
So I am beginning to think that the old link sized 3.5 might have been incorrect (?) and stretched maybe thus passing the test above a year ago? (is this even possible?) So with the above, should I try a link size #4 or #3?
I just find it weird when the original link #3.5 on it did not exhibit any failure to feed at all and no binding, which suggest to me that it was properly built but how come changing to the same size link, changes the dynamics? The link that I got though is slightly thinner than the original link but that shouldn't be an issue I thought given the same size of 3.5.
I realise maybe better to get someone to look into it but I'd be keen to understand why and if I can easily remedy to a longer link so that I can compete with it in two weeks time.
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thanks, will search for those 3.5's.
Also out of curiosity, is it possible for the link to fail due to possibly steady diet of hot loads assuming that it has passed the timing test in the first place?
Hot loads I mean say 180gr at 1000 fps average, or perhaps sometimes reaching 1020 fps.
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So I have a 40 S&W STI DVC which broke its barrel link and so I began to remove the broken link and thinking of replacing it.
I have inspected the gun and it does not appear that there has been any other damage in the upper, lower lugs of the barrel and the slide lugs and frame VIS areas which was really fortunate.
I noticed that the barrel link is numbered 3.5 which I thought was strange as I mostly find barrel links are numbered like 1-5. Would I be able to use #3 then?
occasional light strikes help
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
yep, I got that on