ck1
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Posts posted by ck1
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I am considering buying this pistol but have heard of problems with the magazine. I would like to know the nature of the problem and also any possible fix for this, e.g., better after market magazines.
Second question. Does anyone know the approximate pull weight on the trigger. I am looking for a light trigger because of arthritis in my fingers. TIA
With the 9mm's, if you don't use the newer 18rd mags with an integrated spacer towards the front of the mag you will have feeding and nose-dive problems (look for ones marked: EA9M2005, 101935 or stl/pol 05). You'll see when loading the mags that the long magazine body can make short 9mm rounds prone to nosedive (the spacer fills in some of the extra room at the front of the mag body... the 9's are now built on the large frame guns that take the longer .45, 10mm, 38 super, so the mags are larger front-to-back than your average 9mm mag), but as yet I've fired 700rds through mine without a problem (only loading 10rds in a mag).
I HAVE noticed that loading over 10rds into the mags significantly increases the chances of nose-diving and FTF's, I have had a few mags go through all 18 no problem, but only a few, 10rds per mag has been 100%... and if you're plannining on carrying this gun or loading it with jhp for home defense I wouldn't load more than 10 (I can't get more than 10 rounds of Gold Dots to hand cycle through it, again, works smooth as butter if only 10 in the mag).
There is supposed to be a newer/better redesigned mag for the 9mm with the spacer located on the back of the mag body that was announced at the last shot show to be imported... but haven't seen them yet, bet Henning will have the scoop on them, and most likely have them for sale when they finally arrive.
I just picked up my Elite Match 9mm recently and my out-of-the-box trigger breaks at approx. 4.5lbs or less and is VERY nice, and is getting lighter the more I shoot/dry-fire it... I'll be putting in a lighter 14lb hammer spring this week to lighten it up a bit, but I'm fine with it "as is" and will re-install the factory 16lb spring if I experience any light strikes.
You can go down to a 13lb hammer spring if you remove the firing pin block and pick up one of Henning's x-long firing pins for the lightest pull possible.
If you reload or don't mind the added cost of shooting .45/10mm/.38super, those guns may be less problematic... that said, I'm still totally happy I got the 9mm, 9 shoots like a pussycat in the heavier gun, and is death-ray accurate!
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I bought a Fobus for a sigpro/sp-01 and it kind of fit... Just to work on drawing as I'm new to single actions and disengaging the safety as I draw, won't really work "for real" though.
Thinking one for a sig 229 w/ rail might work, but if it's like this one the extended mag release won't let the Match 's trigger-guard fully lock in...
Still looking on the holster front...
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Thats a tall order looking for someone who would know the lightest hammer spring that will work for all factory ammo.
Why not just stick to one type of factory ammo and then keep lowering the hammer spring weight until you start getting light strikes.
Otherwise stick to the stock hammer spring.
I could live with the stock spring no problem, actually after shooting glocks for so long I feel pretty spoiled with the Match's trigger, but of course still looking for the best trigger I can get out of it, while still meeting my needs.
Think I'll try a 14lb, and if I get any light strikes, maybe give the 15lb a try, if still no good I'll go back to stock... was just wondering if anyone had already been down this road...
Thanks though...
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Dibs on the first round of 9mm mags!!
me next! ...and thanks Henning for sending Blade-Tech a Match w/ the rail, I've got one of them and got my email replay last week from Bobby Mcgee saying he didn't have a mold yet, nor a gun to make one.
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Hey guys, what's the lightest hammer spring I can go with in a Elite Match while still maintaining 100% reliability in setting off all factory primers?
I shoot IDPA mostly, so Henning's x-long firing pin is not an option since I'd have to remove the firing pin block (IDPA rules dictate NOT removing the firing pin block or any other safety's, guys who do this are cheating...).
I don't reload so I shoot whatever fmj I can find locally (wwb, monarch, blazer, etc.).
Thanks.
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Tech tip on getting the hammer roll pin out on a match:
1. Use the right size pin punch - just slightly smaller than the pin
2. Use a bench block to support the frame on and drive the pin out
3. Use a steel hammer and don't be wimpy - if you are wimpy the pin won't move - my little brass hammer didn't do crap, neither did my nice little plastic/rubber mallot. Went with a regular carpentry hammer for driving nails - a few firm hits did the trick.
4. Don't hit the pin all the way out, just enough to clear the hammer (see Henning's video on his taking out pins)
5. Use the pin punch as a slave pin for aligning the hammer then you go to put it back together
Well, know this is an old thread but think you just handed me some good info Mitch. I'll be dropping a lighter hammer spring into my Match in a day or two and I'm wondering if I'll be encountering much/anything different in the Match from the operation Henning was kind enough to post on his Limited (read a few things on here that say the hammer pin pin is only in a couple of the models...)?
Also, will I have to remove the fireing pin safety if I get one of Hennings x-long firing pins?
Thanks.
EDIT: found my answers... Thanks anyways!
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For caliber conversion in the Match's do I need whole new top end's (slide & barrel), or can I just get a barrel only and change the recoil spring? Thanks.
I don't know for sure, but I would assume that you would need a whole new top end. I don't see the breach face/extractor on the slide being eaily used from one caliber to the next.
I could be wrong through.
The Match pistols are fairly inexpensive. Just buy two guns in the calibers you want. That would be the least pain in the butt.
Yeah, guess you're right.
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For caliber conversion in the Match's do I need whole new top end's (slide & barrel), or can I just get a barrel only and change the recoil spring? Thanks.
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So got my new Match w/ rail in 9mm... I wanted the newest railed model 'cause I was hoping I'd get one of the "improved" 9mm mags w/ the spacer at the rear that Henning mentioned in his '09 shot show thread in the shop forum... Well... Negative, no new mag.
Came with one of the mags with the spacer in front, and while it was 100% through 300rds of wwb it's obvious that nose dives may become a problem at some point.
The gun is scary accurate and I'm shocked by the quality actually... Now I need some mags that aren't so sketchy... Anyone with any info on better 9mm mags please share!
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Call Henning!!!!!!
No need to bother the man at every turn when not neccasary, and not very good tact to do so.
Through looking around I've found my answer: Longslide version.
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My current Match sites drive me nuts, if your sight would correct, I'd line up for it. Basically, looking at two things:
1. My match shoots low with the factory sight jacked all the way up, I'm compensating, but don't like it . . .any solution to this would be great
- I've got the new Henning Fibre, so something that paired well with that would be great (POI, etc.,)
2. My outdoor range is out in the sticks , so I'm using my local ranges which are all too dark in my opinion . . . .so looking for tritium
What I'm looking for is a bit different from the other guys above, but thought I'd put it out there
I to bought the henning fiber front site for my witness match but had the same problems you do. Atleast i can see a gap between the sides of the fount site. Fiber is completely to small to be of any use in doors. Went back to the range and bagged the pistol and tried to just watch the sites . Took the old site and a wet diamond stone and filed down the sides of it till the same with as the henning site and reinstalled it added a drop of orange floro paint and that fixed my problem for the short term. Was able to lower the rear site 3 clicks and place 165 grain rounds above the site, finaly. It would be nice for the non-compititive shooters to have a good Mepro/ Trijicon/Truglow type sites that just plan works. No cobbled combo of sites. I still have to black the site after polishing the sides but not a big deal. Darn sure helped. If something does happen here for a darn good site i guess a gun smith will recut my rear for something worth while. Sites are a low point for this gun and the orange flouresent plant helps indoors on the rear dots and front face.
Aloha Henning, new here... Like these guys I shoot a Match and am getting annoyed on the outlook of finding a decent set of sights for my needs.
I shoot mostly IDPA and am coming from Glocks and new to the Tanfoglio's and am looking for something a little different than the target-types that the Elite's come with...
Anyways, I like fixed solid sights so the gun can be carried or used for home defense if wanted, and almost impossible to break, and the best sight picture I've found for me happens to be a wider rear notch (I mean WIDE .150 - .180) paired with a front at .115 - .125 (depending on the rear notch and length of the gun). The light bar-to-front ratio ends up at about 1:2:1 (about the same ratio as Warren/Sevigny sights which sell VERY well incidentally...), and equals a great picture for fast shots with big light bars, that for my eyes, seem to want to line themselves up all by themselves when compared to sights with narrower/smaller light bars, seems like the front would "swim" in the big notch, but actually the big light bars make them easy to center and really accurate.
The particular set-up that I like best is made by Ameriglo and is a plain black serrated rear w/ a orange luminova dot in front (the luminova is brighter than fiber in daylight, glows in low light or dark with a flashlight charge, and most importantly and convenient, will never come loose or break), here's a pic (although not correct sight focus):
So, basically just hoping you'll take the idea of maybe making a wider-notch-type sight or possibly using luminova under consideration... and at the very least please consider making a front sight that's plain black, maybe serrated, in thinner widths and taller heights than factory for those of us who find fiber to be a pain (would help greatly since guess I could take a file to a fixed factory rear... unless you made a better one of course).
I'd bet there are lots of guys out there with Match's or regular Witness models that would jump at the chance to snag a better set of sights that were comparable to what any Glock shooter can find easily and available nearly anywhere, I sure would! Poll didn't work for me, and this is an old post... but please, I hate the sights that come on the Match! Thanks!
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The pre-travel screw is on the trigger but you need to remove the trigger to get to it and adjust it.
aha! Thanks! Don't suppose you could point me towards good info on how to remove the trigger?
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Two screws on the trigger, one in front and one behind.
huh? do you mean internally inside the frame? I can see the over-travel adjustment screw thats on the trigger blade...
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Call Henning and he will hook you up.
SB
I'm sure I'll be getting some stuff from Mr. Henning in the future for sure, but that said, I've got some unused springs for my Glocks that I can exchange for springs for my Match so I'm really looking for an answer to "do I order standard-size or longslide-size spring?"... Thanks, though.
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So... waiting for my new Elite Match to arrive, and have noticed through some reading on the internet that the Elite's w/ SA triggers can be adjusted for pre-travel... however, can't find any pics or parts diagrams showing one?
Wondering if someone can tell me where I'll be finding this pre-travel screw, and in general, if anyone has some good advice on setting up and adjusting the trigger?
Thanks!
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Think I'm going to try a few cheap Fobus holsters for the time being at my LGS... Kinda have a hunch a model for a larger/railed Sig might work until someone else (hopefully Blade-Tech) starts making them...
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Trying to order a new/lighter recoil spring for my Match from Wolff... Does anyone know if I need the "Standard" length or the "Longslide" version? Thanks.
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Hey guys, I'm going to pick up a witness elite match in 9mm any day now... thing is, after seeing a couple pics of one's that are out there (on gunbroker, etc.), and then speaking to EAA, the newest one's that have been imported now have an accessory rail... I actually kind of like that 'cause the gun can lead a double life as a range toy/HD weapon w/ a light if I want.
That said, anyone handled/shot/own one of the newer one's with the rail? thoughts?
I know it's going to make finding a holster even harder, but since I'd like to have the latest incarnation, and happen to not mind the rail, any other reasons to avoid the railed model?
Thanks!
Borrowed this pic from gunbroker:
Buying a new Witness Match 9mm
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
It's a shame they didn't make it a priority to have a 100% functioning magazine for the 9/40 when they decided to move them to the large frame... selling an 18rd mag that will only feed 10 is BS!
They should just have just stuck with the small frame for the 9/40's rather than selling a product with known issues to us.