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lvipscshooter

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Posts posted by lvipscshooter

    Can't get my Open gun to run

    in Open Pistols

    Posted

    The slide seems to be dragging on something, even when just frame and slide together. There is a "clicking sound" almost like the slide doesn't fit the frame properly. We tried lapping compund on it, and it loosened some, but still seems tight.

    Check to make sure the C-More screws do not protrude through the dust cover. Many times if they are replaced or even put back in a different hole they will stick through the dust cover and drag on the slides spring tunnel. Also check to make sure the ejector is all the way down. Many times it doesn't get pinned and will lift and drag on the slide.

    Actually, scope mount screws were discovered protruding early on, as were burrs on the rest of the holes drilled in the frame for the scope mounts. Correcting this cured some of the drag issue, but not all of it. The ejector is pinned, and the slide "drag" is there even with it removed from the gun. It almost seems like the slide was not fitted properly to the frame

    Can't get my Open gun to run

    in Open Pistols

    Posted · Edited by lvipscshooter

    I am a new Open shooter and I am in desperate need of help with my 38 Super Open gun. I bought it back in August of last year, and it has been to our local gunsmith here several times, and he just can't get it to run reliably. One of the issues there is he is unable to tune mags, so that could be a large part of the problem. Here are the details.

    The frame is from an STI Trubore, don't know the manufacturer of the slide, just know it's not stock. It has a Schuemann Hybicomp barrel, Aftec extractor and EGW extended ejector, and a C-More. The gun was hard chromed when I got it and supposedly never fired. I do not know who built it as the gun was purchased from a friend of a friend that I was told I could trust.

    Here are the issues.

    The slide seems to be dragging on something, even when just frame and slide together. There is a "clicking sound" almost like the slide doesn't fit the frame properly. We tried lapping compund on it, and it loosened some, but still seems tight.

    Here is the major issue. It is an "intermitent jamming issue" The gun will run fine for 75 or so rounds, then all of a sudden it will start turning spent cases in the chamber and not ejecting them. It had been turning the mouth of the case outward, so it was decided it needed the extended ejector. That was installed and tuned and it ran 500 rounds reliably in the test firings that followed install. The 1st match I shot I got a jam on the 1st stage. Now it is sometimes turning the spent cases completely around in the chamber and the base of the case is sticking out when it jams

    I really need help getting this thing running as I am getting to the point where I am getting tired of throwing money and time at it and not curing the problem, and causing the frustration level to escalate to where I'm ready to mothball the entire works. I have had a gun for 6 months that has never run correctly.

    Can anyone reccomend a gunsmith that specializes in Open guns that I can send the entire works to, gun, mags, and ammo, to get this thing tuned properly and running. I have several major matches scheduled this season, and need this corrected rather soon or my season is going to be over before it begins.

    Thank You

    This maybe a dumb question but, is the disconnector still in the frame when you running the slide back and forth on it? if so this could be the clicking you hear. you may need to replace the extractor, I had to, my gun was leaving a round in the chamber once in a great

    while this fixed it quick. I would also look at replacing the ejector to a long commander style. At least check the angel of it.

    In my experience the only dumb question is the one not asked :roflol: No, the disconnector is not in the gun when cycling the slide, it is just the frame and slide with all of the trigger components removed.

    Can't get my Open gun to run

    in Open Pistols

    Posted · Edited by lvipscshooter

    I am a new Open shooter and I am in desperate need of help with my 38 Super Open gun. I bought it back in August of last year, and it has been to our local gunsmith here several times, and he just can't get it to run reliably. One of the issues there is he is unable to tune mags, so that could be a large part of the problem. Here are the details.

    The frame is from an STI Trubore, don't know the manufacturer of the slide, just know it's not stock. It has a Schuemann Hybicomp barrel, Aftec extractor and EGW extended ejector, and a C-More. The gun was hard chromed when I got it and supposedly never fired. I do not know who built it as the gun was purchased from a friend of a friend that I was told I could trust.

    Here are the issues.

    The slide seems to be dragging on something, even when just frame and slide together. There is a "clicking sound" almost like the slide doesn't fit the frame properly. We tried lapping compund on it, and it loosened some, but still seems tight.

    Here is the major issue. It is an "intermitent jamming issue" The gun will run fine for 75 or so rounds, then all of a sudden it will start turning spent cases in the chamber and not ejecting them. It had been turning the mouth of the case outward, so it was decided it needed the extended ejector. That was installed and tuned and it ran 500 rounds reliably in the test firings that followed install. The 1st match I shot I got a jam on the 1st stage. Now it is sometimes turning the spent cases completely around in the chamber and the base of the case is sticking out when it jams

    I really need help getting this thing running as I am getting to the point where I am getting tired of throwing money and time at it and not curing the problem, and causing the frustration level to escalate to where I'm ready to mothball the entire works. I have had a gun for 6 months that has never run correctly.

    Can anyone reccomend a gunsmith that specializes in Open guns that I can send the entire works to, gun, mags, and ammo, to get this thing tuned properly and running. I have several major matches scheduled this season, and need this corrected rather soon or my season is going to be over before it begins.

    Thank You

    Wolf Primers...they changed!

    in General Reloading

    Posted

    I will be e-mailing Wolf ASAP. I purchased 5000 of their spp as there was nothing else out there. In 1000 rnds, I have had @ 102% failure rate. I thought it was either me or my gun, but the gun runs flawless on rounds with winchester or cci primers

    I e-mail Wolf's customer service the day after I posted this. I had an UPS tag in my hands three days later. After a week of procrastination I sent in the empty box & claim tag. 1 1/2 weeks later my check arrived, for the full amount + shipping.

    I wish the primers worked, but at least Wolf stepped up to the plate and took care of it. I have since replaced all of mine with CCI and all is well!!

    Interested in getting started in open class

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    I am just getting settled in with my Open gun after shooting @ 1 1/2 in Production. I LOVE IT!!!

    I bought the gun (STI Frame, Caspian Slide, 38 Super Hybricomp Barrel Dawson Comp, C-More) from a friend of a friend, and it was "supposedly" brand new never fired. The gun was for sale at a great price (about $1100 less than the Limited gun I was going to build). Buying used, especially now, seems to be the way to go, IF YOU TRUST THE SOURCE!!! There are a lot of quality guns out there at great prices. I am trying to scrounge enough for a back-up now and the deals just keep getting better!!!

    I did have some issues at 1st though. Extraction & ejection related.

    After @ 6 months of "tweaking & tuning" I finally have a gun that runs. I got very frustrated at first because I was used to shooting a Glock that would run no matter what. I love NHRA so my friends tell me if I want to run Top Fuel I have to be willing to spend spend spend and tune tune tune. :roflol:

    Open guns can definately be finicky, but let me tell you from 1st hand experience as a new Open shooter. IT IS WORTH THE FUSS!!! :sight:

    I have never had more fun pulling the trigger on anything :bow:

    Lesson learned!

    in Open Pistols

    Posted · Edited by lvipscshooter

    Well I learned a valuable lesson recently and discovered I could have gone through much less frustration had I considered the result sooner.

    I purchased a freshly built open gun through a friend of a friend. I found it at a local gunshow, and it turns out the guy selling it was very well rspected by a close friend of mine as well as our local "Gun Dr."

    Anyhow, I purchased the gun, gave it to my gunsmith for the "once over" and a reliability job.

    Got the gun back and it ran a few matches fine, then all of a sudden i was getting type 3 jams.

    Back to the smith, was told probably an extractor, so I bought an aftec, and after literaly hours of fitting, I was off with my newly tuned gun.

    Again, same thing, ran a couple of matches, and the jam-o-matic returned.

    Back to the smith "again". He said he "maybe missed" a little on the extractor, tuned it again, and I had great tension on it.

    Shot one match flawless, and then the jamming returned. At this point I am ready to use it for a fishing weight. I took it back to the smith, who thankfully was very busy with other projects so it sat.

    In the meantime, my new Lock-N-Load AP shows up and I set up my new press. In doing so, my shooting compadre told me my 38 SC was too long and my seating die was shot(we are shooting identical top ends. Anyhow, I got tired of waiting, so I went back to the smiths shop, got the gun. Even he suggested I take a closere look at my ammo. After replacing the seating die in the new press, I made ammo at the suggested length and went to test fire. It has now been over 2000 rounds without a hiccup where before I couldn't even get through a 20 round stage without a jam :cheers:.

    I never thought reducing 38SC from 1.260 to 1.250 would make a difference in ejection/extraction, but I'm guessing it chambers better and is allowing he action of the gun to work properly and not short stroke, letting the extractor & ejector do their jobs.

    Mr.Gun Dr. (you and the rest of my friends know who you are) :bow:.

    :D Keith, thanks for helping with the new press!!

    Hornady LNL AP sizing issue

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    I really appreciate everyone's help on this issue. I am going to attribute it to a worn out insert in my seating die that is "slopping" around inside the die body. I removed all of the 38 Super stuff and ran 9mm luger tonight. Ran an OAL of 1.135 with the same set-up as the super, - the Hornady powder drop. (I used my Lee Pro Auto Disk and powder thru expander die). 200 Rounds perfect as can be! I had to make a 1/2 turn adjustment on the R.H. pawl as it wasn't indexing enough, but that is it. I have a set of Dillon dies on the way to replace the lee seating and crimp dies. Hopefully all will be well, the planets, moon and sun will align and I will be able to produce perfect 38 Super ammo :cheers:

    Thanks again everyone who helped me!!!

    Hornady LNL AP sizing issue

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    Not sure if this may be your issue, but if you dont set the OAL with all the cases in the plate, it will be different. Just remembered that the hard way tonight. Set it to 1.135 with only 1 shell in, loaded 100 rounds and they all came out 1.15+ :blink: d'oh!

    What lee dies are you using, the 4 die set? Sometimes the FCD will act up and cause me some oal issues. Dont know why or how (squeezing the bullet longer probably, or set to tight and pushing bullet lower) but it comes out a different size than it did from the seating die.

    Seems like all the above have been the issue, and I am using the Lee 4 die set. This is the odd thing though. I will set it to 1.256 OAL, I'll run some rounds, and get anywhere from 1.245 to 1.263. I starting to think my Lee seating die has had it or the the crimp die, or both! This is getting very frustrating!!! If I run the completed rounds back through the seating and crimp dies, I get the size I am after or maybe a little shorter.

    Hornady LNL AP sizing issue

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by lvipscshooter

    I am having issue with my new Lock N Load AP. I cannot get it to consistently size my 38 super rounds to save my life. I am using Lee dies that were mounted and worked perfectly in my Lee turret press. I want the round to be 1.256. I am getting rounds anywhere from 1.245 to 1.278 without adjusting anything. My seating die is not loose and I am using the Lee die lock rings.

    WTF?????

    I am losing my mind on this one. I just can't figure out why it isn't working. I'm ready to return the press!

    Please help!!! and please don't answer I should have bought a 650 :roflol:

    New Open Gun, The Journey......

    in Open Pistols

    Posted

    You were saying "FTE" but that can be either failure to extract or failure to eject. I'm guessing from the last question you're saying it's not ejecting properly right? An extractor that hold the case more securely can help with ejection problems.

    The two failures you had today sound like the extractor came off the case too soon (not enough tension).

    The 11lb spring that you cut may still be too heavy....especially with a heavier slide. Very few Open guns out there are running anything heavier than 10lb springs (packing markings, not test readings) from what I've seen. They all take a set after they're used a little bit, so weighing them on a tester takes time to have a reference point (meaning a spring that you know works, then check it). Most Open guns will run with a 9lb spring (package markings) in them. It may not be ideal (dot tracking) for every gun, but they'll normally work at that weight. Put a standard, uncut 9lb ISMI in the gun and check you don't get coil bind (the spring stacking solid prior to the slide going all the way to the rear. Don't clip any coils if it's not binding. If it won't extract or eject properly, try an 8lb spring in the same fashion. You shouldn't have to go below that. Lighter springs help with extracting and ejecting, but the pose feeding problems when they get too light (like 7lbs or less).

    Install the AFTEC per the instructions (it's easy), check that it doesn't hit the barrel when the slide is in battery. Start with both springs in it. Some guns run better with only one, but all of mine have been perfect with both.

    I'd leave the ammo the same so at least you can eliminate that variable....sounds like the 3N38 load is pretty close to where it needs to be (176PF isn't too high at all) and I wouldn't drop it any lower than 172-173. You will find that new cases give you a higher velocity than even once-fired, so factor that into your load choice. R,

    I was having similar issues with my STI 38 Super open gun. My issues were regular failure to eject, and I have an Aftec extractor in the gun. My local "gun Dr." was finally able to get the extractor tuned with enough tension on the cases. He also noted that my installed recoil spring @ 11lbs, was way to heavy and was causing the gun to "short stroke" and not get the case to the ejector. I changed to a 9lb spring and took it to the range yesterday. Between then and this afternoon, the gun has had 300 flawless rounds through it so far. I am using MG 124gr JHP on top of 8.6 grains of IMR 4756, with an OAL of 1.260, and velocity @ 1420fps = 176 power factor

    Lee Turret not seating primers suddenly

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    I have a Lee Classic Turret press. The last weeek, it is all of a sudden not wanting to seat primers deep enough, ans someties it is seating them at an angle. This is happening on 9mm & 38 Supercomp, with CCI, Winchester, Wolf and Magtech small pistol & rifle primers. I have changed nothing in my setup or bench. I am also having every 4th or 5th round pop out of the shell plate when trying to seat the primer, so I'm guessing this might be related? Is it possible to wear out a shell plate? I have only loaded @ 11,000 rounds on this press.

    Thanks for the help

    Lee Factory Crimp Die 38 super comp issue

    in General Reloading

    Posted

    I am new to the world of open guns. I have been reloading 9mm 40 & 45 acp on my Lee turret for a little over a year now. I bought the Lee 3 die 38 super set and the Lee FCD for 38 super. What is happening is this. I set the die per the instructions as I have all of my others (this one is 1/2 turn down from touching), and when I go to crimp the round, it seems to "snap into place" and then "snap" loose leaving quite a bit of case material behind and visibly scratching the outside of the case. None of my other dies do this. I have tried to back it out to 1/8 turn and I still get the same result, but to a lesser degree.

    Is this normal and any ideas if it isn't?

    Thank You

    Wolf Primers - anybody using them?

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    First 5000 SPM primers just about finished with 2 light stikes. The cup is a bit shorter, atleast with Wolf SP and SPM so you need to be sure they are seated well. I am using a 550 press, a 1050 can be adjusted better to for primer seat. Getting 2 poorly seated primers (they fired the second time through the gun) out of 5000 does not seem too bad to me.

    I just ran my first loads using Wolf SPP through my G-34 with a RPFPS and lightened steel FP...5 out of 1st 50 failed to light. I switched to other loads with Winchester and Federal and finished the day without issue. I should mention that this gun has never failed to light a load using Winchester, Federal or CCI...handload or factory load. The primers in question were most definitely seated well and "appeared" to have been hit well enough to light. Although others reported having to use a little more force seating the Wolfs, I thought they actually primed easily with a feel akin to Federals...smooth slide in and solid bottoming out. My FP spring does have a high round count though and I suspect it may have weakened. I have a new one installed to check next trip and plan to run a significant number of Wolf-primed rounds and try to nail it down.

    I had exactly the same issue as you did except mine was only with Blazer Brass cases. All other cases fire fine

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