msredneck

I shoot the moly coated precision bullets in 9mm in a Glock 17 If you use the powders they recommend, you won't have much of a smoking problem

I got the Lee finally set right just a little while ago...Had to actually turn the die In two complete turns to get it...I was quite surprised....any way Many Thanks especially you Chris!....

Hey folks...no hard feelings...I got the message! I'm a Mod on a gun forum as well so I know how it goes One more... Recommendations for a Taper Crimp Die Forester? Redding? Recommend one and I'll do it Oh Yeah you already said RCBS or Hornady...guess it doesn't matter Thanks

Chris, with all due respect. This is a beginners forum. Being a bit harsh, no? Jim +1 Lets please practice what we preach AND brag about all the time. This is a great place to get answers. Lets keep it that way.

Thanks for help. I really appreciate it I can already answer a few questions 1. Using stock Glock 17 barrel 2. I have a Lone wolf barrel I could try but have not yet 3. A 115 FMJ WWB round will drop in the barrel and fall out freely...The WWB falls in and out of the max cart gauge freely as well 4. My reloads fall IN freely on max cart gauge but DO NOT fall in freely on glock barrel..They need a little push 5. My reloads do not fall out freelly out of either the cartridge ga or the stock barrel Another Q...How does one measure crimp? Digitial caliper around edge of case mouth with 147 Pre Moly coated measured .378 if I remember correct...bullet itself is .356 in dia. Not sure how I mark up a Black Moly bullet to see where its rubbing...white chaulk?...They do show a few marks when I chamber one in the G17 and unchamber it...Its a Precison 147 Black Moly truncated cone...It might be a tad long on Oal at 1.125 I can go back to 1.115 but I will still have the failure to drop free issue Many Many Thanks again folks

So I'm hearing ditch the Lee FCD and the bullet seating crimp die Or use the bullet seating/crimp die to only seat bullets Then go get an RCBS or Hornady Crimp die and do it as 2 seperate steps...seat em all then crimp 'em all I think that's the message i'm getting....do I have it right? Maybe a Dillion Square Deal for 9mm is in order...LOL! I have "mulled" that possibility over as well FWIW, I shot 20 or 30 of them at some plates at 25 yards with pretty good success laye yeserday...Not a real test of acccuracy I know but they seem to function Ok.... But I want them "right"! Thanks for the replies...I'm still a U class production shooter hoping to make D class soon and I have plenty to think about

Thanks for the suggestions The bullets fall right into the max cartridge gauge..They just don't fall right out. I have to push just a little to get them into the G17 barrel all the way...then tap the barrel to get it to fall out First round is a little rough on chambering put the gun seems to eat them just fine. When I've cleared a round after chambering I have a few marks on the moly but not bad at 1.125 OAL nothing at 1.115 I tried to set the bell just enough to get the bullet started good without shaving lead. Using the Lee bullet seating crimp die...Precision says to not use the Lee Factory crimp die....I've tried the FCD and it doesn't help. I really thought the EGW was gonna do the trick but so far not.

I am having some difficulty reloading 9mm ammo for some reason. I'm not gonna call myself experienced yet but I've had little trouble loading 38 special, 40 s&w and 45 acp. I'm using Lee dies and press. I'm shooting a Glock 17 USPSA and have a lot of range brass that I use....yeah a bunch of it is Glocked Many of my reloaded rounds don't quite pass the drop in chamber test of my Glock 17 barrel. I also have a Max Cartridge gauge. OAL that I have tried is 1.115 and 1.125 I'm using Precison 147 Gr Moly bullets I have even purchased the Lee Undersize die from EGW to try and take out any Glocked factor. The bullets chamber fine and seem fairly accrate using Universal powder. I'm just wondering where I've gone astray...could I be flarring the case too much?. I'm using little to no crimp and have tried crimping them more to no avail. With it being range brass that I'm firing I have made no attempt to sort cases by length before loading...No doubt this could be a factor. If some of you more experienced reloaders out there could give me some pointers I'd really appreciate it. The U die from EGW seems to put a line around the bottom 1/3 of the case but did not solve this issue for me yet. The die is screwed into it just touches the shellholder...maybe I need to screw down another 1/2 turn? The rounds chamber if I give them a nudge and then I usually have to tap them to get them out of the barrel or the max cartridge when they should just fall out. The max cartridge gauge and barrel are clean Many thanks in advance for some tips

I just checked my log book and I was running 3.2gr. of Universal Clays behind the 147 Precision bullet, seated at 1.080" OAL. From my G34 it shot about 900 fps. Typically my G17 shoots about 20-25 fps slower than my G34 so your not to, to far away from my numbers. Try bumping the charge to 3.4 or even 3.5 and see how it shoots. Batches of powder vary so it's possible you need more of the particular lot you have. I never noticed U.C. to be very weather sensitive unlike some other powders out there.

I had ordered 3000 last week so that's good news Business is good I see

Have been loading a few 147 Gr FP Precision Bullet over 3.2 Clays Universal (not CLAYS) at 1.115.....I have it on pretty good authority that its suppose to be PF 130 but wasn't close for me this past weekend Shot out of my Glock 17 this weekend I only made avg velocity of 819 fps for a PF of 120 and I needed 850 fps For some reason there doesn't seem to be very much data available for 147 lead with this powder. It was cool and rainy and I'm wondering what impact that might have had on the load. Normally this time of year it would be about 20 degrees hotter I thinking about bumping the charge up to 3.4 gr to see if that helps Can someone on here point me to some load data...Hodgdon doesn't have much for 147 bullets.. I want to make sure I'm safe...looks like 3.5 Clays Uuniversal might be max Thanks for the help

Many Thanks...I always start on the low end of the powder charge.... a second question...so what's the real difference between the two primer types....just the thickness (not hardness) of the primer cup? I sure wish Remington would put small Magnum pistol on the box... Both the 5 1/2's and the 1 1/2's say small pistol....easy to mix up Thanks again...

OK I'm a newbie here....Have just completed my 2nd USPSA match. I'm shooting a G17 Production class. I am about to embark on 9mm reloading pretty heavy. I have done a search on this forum...I really have... and can't seem to get a definitive answer to the following: small pistol primers are still very hard to find....small magnum are very easy to find. I have Rem 5 1/2's (small mag)...can I use these with with a relatively slow burning powder like Hod. Universal Clays? I've seen references to substituting small rifle primers for small pistol and reducing the starting charge wt by 10%. Can I substitute the Rem 5 1/2's (small mag pistol) for the 1 1/2's (small pistol) safely? Many Thanks for your help