feersum dreadnaught

ESP MM here. (4.5" 9mm XDm) 1 - 23.28 (7) 2 - 19.82 (4) 3 - 8.44 (0) 4 - 23.16 (12) 74.70 good for fifth out of 24 overall at my club

Thanks all - I ordered the BladeTech SRB. BRT

Need some help here folks. I just got a 625 PC. I've changed the grips to the Hogue rubber from the 500 S&W, got some moon clips and moon clip holders, and started to look for a kydex holster. I went to Comp-Tac, ordered theirs, and got a call - it doesn't fit the 625 PC. &%$*#@!. Went to CPWSA and ordered a Ready Tactical, and Chris sent me a nice note that the holster only fits "standard" N frames. WTF? what is it about the 625 PC that causes it to not fit the same holster that other N frames go into? thanks

I like mine - decent trigger (not as good as a great 1911, but quite workable). fun to shoot. pretty accurate for the price point (~$1200) - maybe better than comparable 1911s at that price. And that price is less than custom 1911s or X-5s... comes with a factory 25 meter target...

this one happens to make me happy - my Sig P220 Stainless Elite is 41.5 oz, so now is legit for CDP.

I shoot a Sig P220 Stainless Elite in IDPA CDP, using a High Noon IWB holster. It's been to GrayGuns for action/trigger work. I carry it ~50% of the time, and the rest of the time, I carry a Kahr PM9. I like the game, and don't worry about beating the G34 guys - I'm ok consistently placing in the upper 1/3 overall at the matches. I shoot IDPA more as a competition with myself, than against others. That said, I just found myself looking at leather line kydex OWB holsters, thinking "that looks faster..." ;-)

I put the Hogue checkered G-10s on my P220, replacing the rosewood that came with it. G-10s are slightly smaller diameter, and way more grippy. I'd recommend them, but the price made me hesitate. If you can afford them, go for it.

as in the title - wondering if I should buy some 10 rounders and up my game a bit... I'm shooting a P220 stainless elite at my local club level, and some stages, the extra rounds would help me skip a mag change, saving a bit more time. would probably be fine either way for club shoots, as we don't bring out the box - but I'd like to keep to the spirit of competition. thanks

As the topic says, I'm in the market for a 4" 625. I've always wanted one (well, since ~1988 or so), first in the 5" barrel, now, to comply with IDPA rules, I'll get a 4" I've seen used 625s on GunBroker and so forth, for ~$600-800 ish. I've seen NIB 625JMs for $775-900. Is there any magic to the 625JM beyond the grips and sights (which I'd probably change right off) and the JM marking on the frame? any pros and cons about the basic platform to beware of? (besides the normal pre- and post-lock discussion). thanks

Thanks for the feedback - very helpful to see how others have approached this. Up through 2004, I might have been able to approach you "locally" - my dad lived on Bark Chip Way in Douglasville... I'll try my local smiths at Jo-Jo's in Southington, CT - they are very good with 1911s and AR-15s, and milling a rifle sight dovetail should be a ground ball for them...

cool. I'm about sold then on the SX3 field - saw one at the local Cabelas for $999. I like being different at my club's three gun matches, so showing up with a steel and walnut high-cap shottie will be just the thing. Will go with my other non-standards, including the Sig p220 Stainless Elite an M-1A SuperMatch... My local smith should be able to mill in the 3/8" dovetail, correct? If not, can I send it down to 00Bullit? anything special about the Nordic compared to the Pat Flanigan version? http://www.patrickflanigan.com/store-pf1.cfm#me other than it looks like Pat makes ~$45 more per tube than Nordic... thanks for the advice

I have read your threads on your SX3 - maybe I should have been more specific. Why did you go with the SX3 as the basic platform, instead of the FN SLP? They seem to be basically the same mechanism, but there are some differences. Was it all about the weight for you? or are there more subtle differences in the actions that made the SX3 better? I'm trying to understand the reasoning before dropping my ~$1K... thanks

These are about the same cost. Major difference is weight and sights, minor is aethetics of plastic vs wood stock. You all have any strong opinions? thx. FN SLP Mk1 - 8 lbs 3 oz, 22" barrel, 8+1 capacity, fiber optic rifle sights, standard invector chokes - good to go right out of the box. LOP will be off for me (I'm 6'8", and my clays guns are 15 1/2" LOP), but I'm not shooting clays with it. I'm not sold on the cantilever sight base, as I don't think I'll be putting optics on to go open class - might as well buy a Saiga if I'm going that wild. http://www.fnhusa.com/le/products/firearms...amp;mid=FNM0019 Winchester SX3 classic field - 6 lbs 12 oz, 26" barrel, bead sight. invector plus chokes, adjustable LOP and cast (can probably only add 1/2" LOP) add a nordic extension tube and get 9+1 capacity, some form of rib mounted sights are available, if really needed for a stage with slugs... http://www.winchesterguns.com/products/cat...&mid=511083 http://www.cactustactical.com/osc/nordic-c...ons-p-1527.html

So, I'd like to check the Enos mind on a high capacity semiauto shotgun for three-gun type gaming (I found my Mossburg 500 pump lacking - I don't use it enough to cycle it smoothly and reliably) I'm in CT, so pistol grip and magazine > 5 rounds is out. Therefore, I'll go with a standard stock, so as to get ~9 round capacity. The normal answers are one of the following: FN-SLP Mark I or Winchester Super-X2 Practical or Benelli M4 I'd like thoughts on these versus the Browning Gold. Browning, FN and Winchester are all basically the same gas system, which is faster cycling than the Benelli, and softer recoiling as well - so far, so good. I like the Browning Gold feature of "autoload" of the first shell (inserting shell in carrier when bolt is locked back results in auto chambering, eliminating a reloading step and allowing you to just stuff in the rest). Nordic makes extended mag tubes, up to +5. It is available with a synthetic stock, and if I look, either a 24" or 26" barrel. The only downside I can see is the lack of off-the-shelf ghost ring sights, but I have not used them yet. Normal beads are OK with me. I ought to be able to find one used for ~$500-600, then get the nordic extended mag tube for another $75. So - any reason not to look for the Browning? Any one else using one for games? thanks