Rob Tompkins
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Posts posted by Rob Tompkins
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Having shot SSTK for a few years I can say the advantages of 40 or 45 in a 1911 are minor cost savings when reloading and not habing to "barny" your first round- that and its kind of just plain cool.
However, assuming you save $0.05 / round reloading 40 vs 45 it'll take a lot of shooting rounds to save back $$$ for a new gun and mags, but did I mention 40 cal 1911's are cool?
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A while back I got a new Hornady Lock n Load. Everything you need in one kit. After practicing I made what I thought would be my first few to shoot with my 9mm Glock 34.
Went to the indoor range and the first 3 were a little hot. However, I think one round that I had separated as questionable made it into the ones I carried. One was not crimped tight enough I think and the bullet dropped down a little.
When I pulled the trigger it sounded like a cannon when it went off. My hands were black, aching , tingling and just hurt like heck and the gun dropped to the floor. After a few minutes I shot again with factory ammo and the gun is fine.
Can anyone give the formula the right powder and amount, brass and bullet and whatever. This scared the heck out of me but a lesson learned or I go back to buying ammo ready to go. A light load nothing hot please.
Russ, to be short and clear.
1. From your reloading mauals look up the range of loads listed that use the bulltes and powder you have. Start with the lowest listed load, no more. NOTE: Of the powders you listed I suggest you start with Power Pistol. It is a slower powder and will require larger charge weights but small variations will have less effect and over charges will be more noticable. The alliant web site lists a starting weight of 6.4 grais with 124gr jacketed bullets. With plated bullets like you have I'd start at 6.0 gr.)
2. Be sure to weigh the charges as you set the powder measure.
3. There is a lot going on with a progressive press, you mihgt want to consider loading one at a time for while so you can focus on each step of the process, especailly throwing charges, seaing bullets, crimping.
4. Borrow a chrono (if you don't have one) to test resultant velocity.
In the 9mm reloading froum here there are many reported loads. You can easlly search for what you want but remember each gun may be a bit different and they may be loaded for a differnt purpose.
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Been there, done that, will again (I'm sure).
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I occasionally mooch a plan but that is not the norm. Would never mooching a plan affect my match scores, yes, normally when I end up mooching it because to plan I had sucked and the one I stole is way better and the score reflects that.
By your definition, I never mooch. There is occasionally a holy crap moment when I didn't see something, but if I've already started visualizing my run I don't change anything. The low-cap divisions I shoot often require a different break down anyway.
I make my own plans and only mooch someone else's if it seems better than mine, particularly if it involves something I didn't see. I do pay attention to what better shooters do, and sometimes I'll ask a question or two about why they did it that way afterwards, so that I can learn.
I don't really stress too much about it tho. Most of the time it seems to be the execution that costs time.
All of the the aboeve! I try to plan accoring to my strenghts and most of the time stick with it. If I see something that works WAY better I may or may not adapt depening on the risk / reward balance.
At Area 6 we had a stage where a GM shot it first and everyone after that shot it the same way. When I shot it, I shot it diffenent becase it worked better for me. other times I'll see someone shoot and think "why didn't I think of that?". The more I shoot and the less I depend on other's idea's. If I'm shooting with good friends we sometimes develope / debate plans. Sometimes we shoot it the same, sometimes not since we shoot to our strenghts.
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I have 1911's in 9mm, 40S&W, and 45ACP. I've shoot all of them in SSTK. Had I not stumbled across a smoken hot deal on pre-Series II Kimber that had a Kart barrel and trigger job I'd have just stayed with the 45ACP for SSTK. The 40 is fun but not really necessary for SSTK.
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What is the procedure to withdraw from a Regional and receive a refund of entry fees? The website says it must be done within 5 weeks of the match but I cannot find how to do that.
I sent e-mails to the listed MD's. Also found Charles Sole on FB and sent him a messaage.
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I have a 9Pro and 40Pro. One has the Apex FSS and the other is stock with the Burwell home trigger job. I' have swapped uppers and lowers to get different configurations for different games (Apex lower and 9mm upper for 3-gun & IDPA ESP, Apex lower and 40 upper for USPSA Lim, stock lower and 9mm upper for USPSA production & IDPA SSP). I now shoot a custom 1911 9mm for IDPA ESP and custom 2011 for USPSA Lim so the Pro's are mostly used as back up guns now except for 3-gun. For me the Pro's shoot just as well as the custom guns.
I also have 1911's in 40S&W and 45ACP, as well as revolvers, 22lr, and compact 380 & 9mm pistols. If could only have two hand guns it would be the two M&P Pro's, if only one gun it would be one of the Pro's but not sure which one.
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Tried it, liked it, droped it. I also shoot IDPA and 3-gun. I could not keep up with switching between the C-more and irons. Both suffered.
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Divisions with limited capacity (Lim 10, Prod, SSTK, Rev) put a premium on stage planning AND reloading as well as demaning good accuracy to minimize make up shots if you want to place well.
They will make you a better shooter but it takes time.
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If you like the 1911 platform, get the RO and few 9mm mags. You can reuse the rest of your gear.
If you want to change platforms then S&W, Springfiled, and Glock all have good options tha can be modified to be evern better options - go with what fits your hand the best and makes you feel good about your choice. Saving a few bucks getting someting you don't really like is a path to unhappiness.
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I've used both ETM and Tripp Cobra mag. I like the Tripp's better. The plastic follower on the ETM's will deform from engagment with the slide stop and start failing. Also, the ETM's when fully loaded are harder to load into the gun with the slide forward since they have less play (not a typical issue if shooting IDPA but a pain for USPSA.
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Managed to jump onto a Sat afternoon squad.
I presume the afternoon squads will start at 1:00 pm?
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I guess if you haven't done it you don't understand how you do it, as I've not done it and I don't understand it.
Some day I may but until then I don't. I know several who have but not inquired as to the how it happend. I know out of fear of doing it, I focus and aim at either a target or spot on the berm centered between the screens and device. If its a new / different gun I'll check the zero first.
Bottom line is I see it, I know it, but I don't get it. Can someone explain so that I might contiune to not doing it?
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The shape / size of the slide stop could cause a problem on one gun and not the other. A lot of shooters don't like any kind of extended slide stop on any kind of gun for that reason.
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Captain Obvious checking but you’ve confirmed you weak hand thumb is not riding the slide stop? Also, you don’t have a thumb dragging on the slide preventing it from going back far enough to give the time to engage and activate the slide lock?
The only common dominator I see in your original post is you and your grip. I’d look hard at that. Have others watch it closely as you shoot.
Your load & recoil spring combo should balance well enough but you could try a lighter recoil spring and see if that helps any – it would allow the slide to stay in recoil just a tad longer.
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Its all about how much time you want to spend at the bench. With just a bit of care any of the presses will last a life time and you will eventually save back the investment. The monthly shootnig vol tells you how soon, but no matter what you will save it back. Think of it as how much time a matche's worth of ammo costs you. Spending 2, 3, or 4 hours making ammo for one match may not be to bad if you only shoot one match a month. with my LNL burning through 150 rounds at a match equates to 20-30 min of work time if you count brass prep (sorting & cleaning) and reloading. I tend to shoot twice to four times a month so on average I spend an hour or so reloading for months worth of shooting.
Works for me, I would not want to spend more time at the bench. BTW I've reloaded more than enought to save back the cost of the press and had ammo tuned the way I want it.
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4.9.6. Threat indicators made of impenetrable material are considered hard cover.
So if the full diameter of the bullet is inside the black gun painted on the target, it's a miss? I never thought about this rule before.
The rule says "made of impenetrable material" indicators are hard cover, i.e., if you used a 2x4 cutout to look like a rifle or had an old drill rifle / rifle stock, etc. it would be hard cover.
As Sarge pointed out rule 4.9.5 talks to "painted" indicators.
You think a wood 2x4 is "impenetrable material" for our bullets?
If you want a round hole to score, it might just be.
BTW, if a light gammer load out of an SSP gun (105 PF) with soft lead bullets encounters a hard board, it might just not exit!
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I have done a little bit of reading here and there in the subforum, and would like to lower the pull on my current pistols a bit more.
My 9L with nothing more than the Apex Competition Action Enhancement kit (and a very small amount of polishing) has a trigger pull that is right at 3# on my pull gauge.
I am wondering if there is anything else that would lower it to the 2# range without doing all of the work outlined by Burwell, or am I looking at about as good as it is going to get? I have a polymer action enhancement trigger inbound, mainly because I prefer the Glock feel vs the stock hinged trigger set up.
In addition to this I just picked up a new 40 Pro 5" (and my G22 set up will go to a new home when I can find someone to adopt it) that I will be setting up as a (larger) twin sibling to the 9L. It's going to be a welcome change, since the trigger pull out of the box is a really stiff 7#.
If there are any other ideas on where to go with this outside of the Burwell mods I mention above, I would appreciate hearing them. These pistols are both going to be used in comp, and I just may turn the 9L into a 9mm major piece once I get the 40 dialed in (or I will end up buying a Core + optic next).
Thanks in advance for any feedback you all can provide.
If you do the Burwell work (less the sear mods since you relaced the sear) the 3# pull will be smoother and FEEL lighter. To go much lower you risk safety (i.e., propability of ND's could go up) and reliabilty (light primer strikes forcing use of only Fed primers). In action pistol games I've not felt that the lighest possibe trigger pull was really a good goal. I've seen many failures (light strikes and NDs) due to over working trigger in plastic guns.
I have a 9 Pro with ALL stock parts and the Burwell work (less the sear) and a 40 Pro with the FSS kit using stock springs.
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4.9.6. Threat indicators made of impenetrable material are considered hard cover.
So if the full diameter of the bullet is inside the black gun painted on the target, it's a miss? I never thought about this rule before.
The rule says "made of impenetrable material" indicators are hard cover, i.e., if you used a 2x4 cutout to look like a rifle or had an old drill rifle / rifle stock, etc. it would be hard cover.
As Sarge pointed out rule 4.9.5 talks to "painted" indicators.
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i have a question for those that ordered one. Did you have to put down a deposit and is the deposit refundable? were you told when you ordered when your gun would come in? how long are you willing to wait for a DVC ?
For Brazos I paid a $400 deposit. Expected delivery time was put as 8 weeks (invoice shows delivery date of 4/11/2015).
Their website states that orders for out-of-stock STI guns are subject to a $100 cancellation charge plus any other fees they incurred. (Which is reasonable - I'm not finding any fault with them)
Kinda getting antsy but I guess I'll wait. Just anxious. I've been shooting production for ~4 years now, finally have enough money saved for a Limited gun, and want to get one and get started. Sportsmans Outdoor Superstore just listed police trade-in SV's for $2k
.Curious, I looked: http://www.sportsmansoutdoorsuperstore.com/products2.cfm/ID/152317/infinityused/strayer-voigt-infinity-swat-40sw-police-trades
I had just ordered and paid for a custom 2011 build from a local smith before the DVC's wer announced. I've received it and really like it it, but had I seen the DVC first I'd might have gone that route.
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On the face of it, the belts could possibly act as a "clutch" so that a jam in the CasePro would not break anything. I could see the need for frequent tension adjustments as the belts wear / streach and the weather changes 9het and humidity).
If you have parts and want to expeirement, go for it.
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I ran a pre-Series II Kimber Stainless Classic for a couple years in SSTK. Picked it up used and it had a Kart barrel fited but as far as I could tell the rest was "orginal" or at least the hammer and external controls were since they were all the same black on stainless two tone look. The only problems I ever had were the results of errors with hand loads and the blade on the rear sight broke off.
I know the Series II Kimbers are disliked due to extra safety parts (just like Series 80 colts) and I've not seem many run locally (but there haven't been many SSTK shooters either). IMHO NEW Kimbers are pricy for what you get but used gun could be a good value, or not.
The Para Pro Comp in 40S&W can be had at Bud's for $871 + shipping and transfer fees. http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/21_53/products_id/84408/Para+Ordnance+96711+Pro+Comp+40+8%2B1+40S%26W+5%22
I dare you to find any Trojan anywhere in stock for less than ~$1100, expect most to be closer to $1200.
The Para has an Ionbond finish over stainless steel (will be very durable), the Trojan finish not so much unless hard chormed but even more expensive.
I can't debate the relative merrits of individual internal components or overall fit because I haven't handeled a large samle of each.
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Rule 5.2.4. has a specific exemption for using front pocket to hold a mag to load and unload as well as store mags so long as they are not used between "stand by" and "ULSC".
Some day I may but until then I don't. 
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2015 TN Sectional Sept 25, 26, 27
in Match Announcements - Pistol Only - USPSA, IPSC & Misc.
Posted
Sorry to hear that.
Standing by for updates.