Rob Tompkins
-
Posts
781 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Rob Tompkins
-
-
Yes, I have a 9mm Pro and 40cal Pro. One frame is a stock trigger and the other has the APEX FSS and trigger. I mix and match for the best combo depending the game I want to go play.
-
Good info on the RCBS bullet feeder. For about the same money or just a bit more the Mr. Bullet Feeder can be had it appears to be a far better machine. I might have to get one.
Good point on the case prep if you do that separately.
I hear you on the 223 cases. I know some of the early 223 shell plates had a larger bevel that did not push the retainer spring down far enough. I heard Hornady will swap them out but I had a buddy selling off his LNL (upgraded to a 1050) and I picked his up for $10. Haven't tried it but definitely a smaller bevel. I'm hopeful 223 will feed better.
-
Until I had asked the question if anyone was using one I had not noticed they did not have a case feeder, just a bullet feeder. Being a long time LNL use with a case feeder and having tried the LNL bullet feeder I have the basic view the case feeder is necessary and the bullet feeder is optional. BTW the LNL bullet feeder works ok but is so noisy as to be painful and unusable – I sold mine not long after I got it.
But thinking back over my experience with the case feeder it’s not always been a bed of roses. To set it up with small diameter cases (9mm sized) there is a set of parts, for large diameter cases (45 cal sized) another set of parts, and for medium cases its mix and match with no parts sized exactly right and each needing different adjustments. Getting mixed brass in the system can be a problem as well – a 40 cal case mixed in while reloading 9mm is a PITA. What a pain. Don’t know if Dillon’s case feeder is any different but maybe, maybe not. The LNL bullet feeder had very specific caliber parts and fewer of them. It was quite easy to set up and change over and since we use new bullets not much chance you'll get an incorrect one mixed in.
Manually loading both cases and bullets into a progressive is not very fast nor enjoyable (to me anyway). However loading brass with bullets being automated seems no slower than automated case feed and manual bullet feeding. With a manual case feed I would expect far fewer problems due to mixed / incorrect brass.
Thoughts?
-
First, congrats on the marriage!
Second, I've shot Glocks, M&P's, and STI's in Limited. Currently shoot a custom STI and I really like it. However, if you are not reloading I would not recommend an STI. There are enough reported problems with STI's feeding factroy length ammo that you may (or may not) find you have feeding problems. For using onluy factroy ammo I'd suggest anything else. For less than 1/2 the cost of a DVC you can get a Glock or M&P, trick it out just about any way you like, get a bunch of mags with extended base pads, AND a bunch of ammo. Same is likley true for a CZ Tactical Sports but I have no direct knowledge.
-
I have some 9mm and .223 Rem specific polymer ammo boxes. There is no extra room for the catridges to move around and it looks very neat inside the box. They have spoiled me!
So now I am looking for a .40 S&W specific ammo box. All of what I have found so far is labeled 40/45/10mm, so they have a bunch of wiggle room, but laterally and verticaly.
Anyone seen or heard of 50 or 100 round plastic ammo boxes specifically for .40 S&W (or even 10mm)?
Thanks in advance,
J
I use a bunch of those ammo boxes for both 40S&W and 45ACP and the fit is lose for both (bit more for 40S&W of course) but its not bad and does not seem to harm the ammo any. If the rattle bothers you you can get some cheap sheet foam from a fabric store and cut to fit.
-
Anyone actually using one of these? Thoughts & opinions?
-
Expensive but guaranteed for life http://www.tilley.com/us_en/
Several different brim sizes and venting available.
I use a Tilley, its a dilley. ;-)
-
I've had an ambi safety joint get lose and back apart during a match (Taurus 1911). Had the thumb pad of a Wilson safety crack but replaced it before it broke (custom 1911). Also had a barrel link break after being Melonited. I've had a rear sight blade shear off (Kimber 1911) after being Melonited. I've had a sear springs lose tension and allow hammer follow. Had a Melonited EGW lightweight hammer spur shear off in a mach but caused no malfunctions.
Lessons learned:
- Don't Melonite small parts
- Be ready to adjust or replace sear springs
- Keep an eye on MIM parts
-
2. Self-squadding will begin July 12 on USPSA's self-squadding service.
Any updates on this?
I see that match in the system but no shooters are listed.
-
I have a Kart barrel in my 40 cal 1911 (also my 2011) and a Kart in my 9mm 1911. All have proven accurate. Can't say "the most accurate" but more than acceptable for action pistol games.
-
Seems that the intent would be to allow for some variability, but not make the cover points change for different shooters. It would seem that you would need to keep the same amount of shoot target available for every shooter or it wouldn't be "fair".
Agree. Since it address the movement at the shooing positon it shoule not change reload postions from one shooter to the next. Its only a target ID challange.
-
This could be correct, depending on the scoring call. Benefit of the doubt scoring (4.5) extends to calling doubles and scoring zones. So that should be used in lieu of manipulating the target. If the target is manipulated and the shooter gets the benefit of the doubt on scoring zone and possible presence of a double (i.e. target is called "down zero"), I don't see how there can be a disagreement worthy of being resolved by issuing a reshoot.
If however, the target is touched and the lower score is given and the shooter disagrees and has the target pulled for an appeal to the CSO/MD/Arbitration chain, I don't see how the target can be considered valid. In this case, it would seem that they also have the choice to reverse the scoring call, because the target manipulation introduced the requisite reasonable question on scoring.
So the shooter blows past a target or two and gets 2 x (10 down + FTN + PE) and the SO touches a target he then calls 0 down - shooter might be hot to get a reshoot.
-
Agreed! I'm an ETR-7 fan.
-
FSS is legal in ESP but NOT SSP.
You are limited to 2 mags on teh belt and one in the gun. You take as many as you want for no more than two on the belt. Nor can they be extended, there is a box rule.
Stages are limited to 18 rounds max so unless you get a round count for the match I'd recommend 20 rounds X (number of stages +2 for possibel reshoots). Our you can just take 150 rounds and bring left overs home.
I'd suggest you reveiw the equipment rules.
-
Looks like a face from “Psycho Clown Killers”.
-
Since the last time this thread was active, I've done some load development with ETR-7 from Expansion Industries. I found it to be EXTREAMLY clean burning. Its a bit slower than Tightgroup (5.1 gr for 180 gr plated X-Treme bullets) but Tightgourp data is a good starting point, just work up from there. I get single digit SD's and very good accuracy. Its very fluffy so it fills the available case volume ~90%. It meters well in my Hornady measure. Current price is on par with most ($18/lb). I would pick it over most others due to how clean it burns.
-
I suspect he wants to make sure of PF. He needs to either trust the shooters or set up a chrono.
-
You state you're using range brass, there can be some off brands of brass that are a bit thinner and will cause problems but having said that I doubt the that's the problem. I use Lee dies and have only had a similar problems when over expanding.
You did not state but I assume you are now using a powder through expander to expand and charge the case at the same time.
I don't know how you've adjusted you dies so if this is redundant, appologies:
1. Seating die: With no brass in the shell plate, raise the shell plate all the way up then adjust the sizing die to be finger tight aginast the shell plate then back on 1/4 turn. Or, follow the directions that caem with the die if you're not using Lee dies.
2. Expander die: With a sized peice of brass in the expander station, back the expander way out, raise the brass up then adjust the die down untill you have finger tight contact. Lower the brass then turn the expander down 1/4 to 1/2 turn and size the case. Test fit a bullet. The bullet base should just fit inside the flair so the when seated it won't shave the bullet. If not, aadjust it down until the base fits. You should not be able to press the bullet in any more wiht finger pressure. If the bullet "drops" in at this point you have an out of spec expander (.410 as others suggested) or your sizer is not getting the brass small enough. The flair may not be visable but you should be able to feel it and measure it.
3. Seating: Process may vary from brand to brand but the idea is similar, set the die body then adjus tthe seating stem.
4. Lee FCD: Adjust as you would the sizer but back out the seating stem or even remove it. However, if you are running all you 40 brass through a bulge buster you can us a standard crip die as you don't need to remove bulges with the FCD.
With a properly adjusted dies you should be able to get good ammo from just about every brass and bullet combo.
Hope this helps.
-
I try to go as fast as possible with no Mikes, no "D" hits and as few "C" hits as possible.
I will look at total points on the stage and calculate the time needed to get a 5.0 hit factor if all "A" hits then look for ways to better that "goal" - for example is there a trade between long shots (possible lost points or Mikes) vs moving up (more time). On really small stages that oftern means faster shooting.
-
If you want really soft, use the X-Treme 165gn 9mm bullets. Really quite soft with most any powder. I like a med speed powder to keep peak pressure down.
-
Come on down to Rocket City Practical Shooters. We shoot at Cavern Cove Rimfire. We're about an hour from Chattanooga.
Also shoot 3-gun and speed steel (as well as IDPA)
-
Many haver reported good operation with factory 40 ammo in a 2011. Many have reported the need to load longer.
My 2011 with a Kart barrel would not run factory 40 very well but just a bit longer (~1.16) is just fine. I have several other 40's (Kimber 1911 w/ Kart barrel and M&P Pro). I want to load ammo that would work in any of my 40's and the M&P won't even load longer that 1.165-1.17 in the mag so 1.160-1.165 it is.
FYI - this is using 180gr conical flat point bullets.
-
In tune with this question, with OAL for freeloaders,with the added length are you also increasing powder charge to maintain the power factor/fps?
Pick a COL that works then tune the load (based on chrono results) to get the PF you want.
-
Many haver reported good operation with factory 40 ammo in a 2011. Many have reported the need to load longer.
My 2011 with a Kart barrel would not run factory 40 very well but just a bit longer (~1.16) is just fine. I have several other 40's (Kimber 1911 w/ Kart barrel and M&P Pro). I want to load ammo that would work in any of my 40's and the M&P won't even load longer that 1.165-1.17 in the mag so 1.160-1.165 it is.
9mm major guidance on primers and Ram Shot Silhouette
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
When I shot Open years ago I used Silhouette in my STI 9mm Major gun. I don't recall the exact charge weights but it was a pretty full case but making Major PF was not an issue and I used Fed primers with no real issues. NOTE: Charge weights to get to Major PF will be beyond any formally published data.
The data and links above should help you out.