TCB
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Posts posted by TCB
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Are magnets legal in USPSA SS? I’ve been using a Safariland ELS belt with 5 Safariland pouches and a Bladetech holster on a BOSS hanger. I’ve never needed more than the 5 on the belt + 1 in the gun at a match but a 6th one couldn’t hurt...that 6th mag would be pretty far back if you needed it.
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The Shooters Connection bag is the heat. The only issue I’ve had with it is one of the buckles on the strap broke. I was carrying well over 40 lbs of gear in it at the time...the other one has held fine and a caribeaner I had laying around was an easy fix for the broken side.
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Buying Chinese knock offs makes John Moses Browning cry...and that’s just mean.
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I put one on my Safariland belt rig...it is the way.
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I’ve only shot a couple 3-Gun matches in Factory division and have a 8 (+1) shell capacity on my 1301 to be compliant. I decided to jump onto the deep end and go to the Multigun Nationals next year and am planning on shooting in Ltd division. The rules says no more than 9 in the SG to start but I’m not clear if that means I have to have a 8 round maximum tube capacity like in 3GN or if I can screw on my 4 round extension for 12 in the tube and plus up after the buzzer?
Also, no flashlights allowed on pistols correct? Thanks in advance for the clarification!
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I did for a while. TF extensions and magwell. I trimmed the followers a bit and got 18 in the mags. It worked well. Then I bought a 2011...
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What’s the scoop on replacement charging handles for these things? I’d like to ditch the plastic one here at some point but it looks like Nordic doesn’t offer one that fits, or it may be that I just can’t make out their product codes?
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Got mine back from C-Rums yesterday. About a 3 week turnaround. Came out great...I have some pics but can’t post them due to size and me not knowing how to do anything about it... If anyone wants to see them or can post them hit me up.
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Will do when I get it back...
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I'm having a bunch of work done to mine by C-Rums and XS rear is a pretty cheap option from him so I decided to get one...previously I was just splitting my Hi-Viz dot in half with the rib and my slugs were hitting right at the top of the F/O rod no problem but the rear sight seems...classier.
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I had similar issues with my Cameron's 2011. I called him and he said he built it to run jacked ammo only (for the guy who had it built) and that my coated bullets would not work unless he "lead reamed" it...
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I've got a 5" that I bought used and am very happy with it, one of the other guys at my local match has a 6" and he loves it too. I personally didn't notice much of a difference between the 2 lengths but I only put a ltd # of rounds through the 6". There are a couple minor things on mine that are not cosmetically perfect but the trigger is amazing and the things runs...
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I'm useing 3.3gr of N320 under a plated 147gr xtreme at 1.15 OAL. It shoots very soft and I've never had any complaints about accuracy.
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Got one on order...can't wait.
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The thing that stood out to me on one I shot was the undercut on the frame...it really let me get up high on the gun. Felt amazing in the hand. I didn't notice the extra lengt. The one I shot had some of the fcg parts swapped out and the trigger felt very good. Made me want to get my Wilson off to a smith and have them start cutting & checkering on the frame.
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One of my team mates runs a Max in .40 and really likes it, the mag I put through it felt great, shot pretty flat. I've shot a bunch of matches with him useing it and can't say I recall it ever having issues.
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If anyone gets into this situation and needs to shave a bit of weight I was able to get my Wilson CQB w light rail down to a total weight of 42.405 oz. with a Wilson ETM magazine / factory baseplate by dremmeling out the back of my VZ Operator II G10 grips. It was previously at 42.755 before the work was done (.35 oz of grip removed). I could have kept going and would expect to be able to get a full 1/2 oz. of weight out of G10 grips with a little more work.
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i was able to re weigh it last night at work, with the OEM baseplates on the ETM mags I'm a 1/4 oz. under weight (42.755). I'm going to break out the dremmel and remove some material on the rear of the grips (VZ) to get it down a bit more just to be safe. If I can get another 1/4 oz. off I'll call it good. I figure I can always take some material off the outside edge of the magwell if need be as well and I might be able to go back to the Dawson pads? (It's at 43.280 oz. with them)
I thought about tri-topping it as well as doing a more aggressive undercut on the frame (like the DVC classic) but as I'm planning on shooting Ltd. next year anyway it seems like a lot of work & $ to throw at a gun that's not going to be my primary match pistol.
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Thanks for the input. I need to find a scale and weigh it again to really see how much I need to cut. An aluminum S&A magwell would make sense as that's what's already on there and mine frame has been blended with it very nicely, I don't know if it would be hard to match the blend with the other magwells?
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I've got a Wilson CQB with a light rail that I've been shooting for about 9 years or so and have never weighed it before...long story short it's a hair over weight for USPSA with my ETM mags when they have the Dawson baseplates (which I prefer) on them, it comes in just under with the plastic ETM baseplates.
The pistol currently has a steel S&A magwell on it and my gunsmith recommend that I change that out with an aluminum one. I only need to cut 6 grams or so to be safe (it showed 3 over on the scale that was used), he recommended the Dawson ICE and a buddy recommended a Techwell with a steel mainspring housing to keep it closer to max weight (I like the idea of that).
Anyone have info of the weight savings between thoes options and a S&A magwell (it's flat not arched) or other simple ideas to cut weight?
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Hmmm...I've got thousands of rounds on Surefire X300Us and have never had a problem with them. The one on my duty gun is worn down to aluminum in a bunch of places and has been through tons of abuse. My bedside & training guns are VP9s and both have U-Boats on them, solid lockup. I've also had nothing but good interactions with Surefires CS, they've even replaced gear that I broke with no hassle.
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Hmmm...so a buddy at work found out I hadn't ever had my 1911 fully apart and that I almost never clean it. He offered to take it all the way down just to see what was going on.
It was pretty filthy...we found a few things of interest. The pin that holds the mainspring housing on was sheared in the middle and the plunger that contacts the slide stop was totally peaned flat on the end. Luckily we had replacement parts on hand...and we're able to replace both pieces.
I'd been noticing that the trigger was starting to feel a little gritty and after a thourough cleaning and a little light polishing with Mother's it is now much crisper.
Prior to this it has never had more than a basic field strip and was just shy of 13K when we broke it down. There were areas of large amounts of built up carbon caked up that fell off easily and was the consistency of a thick slurry/paste. I apply lube liberaly and the muck that was built up inside came off easily with no more than a gentle scrub with some cleaner and a nylon brush.
I had experienced no cleaning related malfunctions prior to this cleaning (a couple ammo related here and there). The pistol pretty much runs like a top (Wilson CQB). It's loosened up a bit over the years (slide to frame) but remains pretty tight as far as barrel fit goes.
Overall I'm still not going to clean it until I start to feel the grit in the trigger return. The difference after cleaning was pretty dramatic and did improve performance. Once I find out how many rounds that takes I'll start breaking it down prior to that as part of a routine maintenance and inspect parts for breakage & unusual wear.
Again, not recommending this cleaning schedule to anyone, just a data point on a pistol used exclusively for gaming. Weapons that may be needed for "social work" or duty weapons should be kept in fighting condition.
There might be something to this cleaning thing...
Hand chalk/grip lotions
in Handgun Techniques
Posted
Progrip has been working great for me...I have smallish hands so anything helps!