moose64

I bought a Para Pro Custom 40 this year, I have 4 STI 2011 mags that run 100% in gun. Instead of welding up mag catch, I test fired a mag to see what would happen, bullets nose dived in to feed ramp. So there is always more than one way to skin a cat...If you hold a STI mag in your hand with feed lips facing away from you, the left side has a slight curl inward, I took a pair of needle nose pliers with gorilla tape on em, and bent most of the curl out of it so that when you placed a round in magazine there was a slight gap between the bullet and feed lip. The OAL on my reloads is 1.140 - 1.145. Have shot 4 matches with em and no problems....

I found out this weekend the Disconnector in the Pro Custom 40 is also different. Tried putting in a Cylinder and Slide one, and it would not work. The OAL of the C&S was 1.302, the Disconnector in the Para measures 1.310 OAL.

I have used them most of this year with my Open and Limited gun. And I like them so far, no thumb screws to tighten or Lose when they fall off. But be aware the spring they talk about that holds the magazine in place, Its plastic, not metal. Not sure how long they will last before breaking, mine have made it a about a year so far. They come with two types of plastic springs, one smooth and one with a rib for more tension.

Well I bobbed the ole spur off and did some more grinding to lighten it more, polished it up and looked pretty good, 8# trigger on it, took it out today and ran 75 rnds with Winchester primers and popped every round off. Federal primers are not always available for me, I prefer having a gun that will work no matter what primer I happen to have at the time. Thanks again for the Info

Thanks for the info, I'll get to work on the ole hammer spur, I am just looking for about 7# DA pull that will light off any primer I run through the gun. I just shoot the Revo Div. For pure fun and challenge maybe 2-3 time a year. If I could reload it better and remember how to count to 6, might shoot it more often....

Was curious if bobbing the hammer spur and lightening the hammer on a S&W 625-8 is worth the effort? Does it make a enough of a difference in reducing light strikes to make it worth doing?

The way you have the stage desinged, the barrels should not be an issue, but what can be done is to paint the barrels white where there might be a possibility of a round striking the surface, I have done this at level I,II,and III matches. and the barrels make a distinct sound when hit. then you can clearly see if barrel was hit with the white paint, then you just put a paster on it.

Its nice to see newer shooters stepping up and wanting to design and set up stages....the effort will be appreciated by your local club memebers. Looks like you have some good ideas, when designing stages, always remember rule 1.1.5 freestyle. And as in a previous post, design the stages as if they were going to be used in a level II match or higher. Just throwing this out there for you to consider, I would do away with the boxes, have barrels like you had in first pict, put a wall up between the barrels, and then use fault lines at left and right outer barrels, and maybe elevate one of the single barrels so they will have to shoot under it at the poppers...have start position be, "standing facing down range, with hands on "X's" of center wall...? just a thought to consider. I am not a fan of boxes..then you will have made it freestyle..

If there was anyone looking for the new Glock Gen 4 9mm ejector, Glockparts.com has em in stock now. I ordered one for my Gen 3 G17 open gun, hope it will keep the brass out of my shirt.