Estimator

It would be beyond my wildest dream to have a winter of 33 degrees and rain. At latitude 64 it is rapidly approaching time to see just how "EXTREAM" Hogdons powder is. Also, time to "degrease" the AR15, .45 ACP etc., and soak them down with dry lube. I really don't mind the winter. I just really miss not being able to use the outdoor range as often.

Although I have yet to use the lanolin mixture I plan to use the same method as with other lubes. After running the shell through the size die I wipe the shell off fairly well with a dry rag. When triming new, or once fired (bulk from Lake City) brass I use a Sinclair/Wilson trimmer which leaves lots of brass shavings in the neck. I tap the shell on the bench to remove most of the shavings then run a .22 (for .223) bore cleaning mop dipped in alcohol through the neck to remove any additional shavings and also remove any lube so the seated bullet will have a good metal to metal contact. I don't crimp the .223 bullets and want a snug seat.

OneShot sucks for rifle brass, especially 308 brass. What I do is wander into the grocery store, buy a couple of bottles of 99% Isopropryl Alcohol in the pharmacy section, then 2 tubes of lanolin (in the breast feeding/baby food section. Head home, warm up the lanolin in a pan of warm water on the stove until its about the consistency of melted bacon grease. If you skip this step the lanolin won't mix in with the 99% alcohol. Then pour off some of the 99% alcohol until you can get all of the melted lanolin into the bottle. Shake it up to make sure that it mixes well without any clumping. Transfer into a .69c spray bottle from Home Depot (or left over from something else) and go to Town. You won't save much over buying Dillon lube this way, its about the same cost, but it costs nothing to ship and you can make more of it at will. Once again, I appreciate the imput. Yes, I am going to make a trip to the store for lanolin and make my own lube as you have suggested. In retrospect, I may have been a bit hasty in blaming the Prvi Partizan brass and not taking a closer look at the lube situation. However, judging from the "feel" of the shell that stuck I think Lake City brass would have pulled out ok. At this point I am going to use the Prvi brass and see how it does. I used to shear sheep as a kid. The softest a farmers hands would ever be was at sheep shearing time due to the lanolin in the wool. So---if you hold the shell tray over the trash can to spray the lanolin and overspray your hands you will get an added benifit

Thanks for the information. Yes, I am going to try your formula for sizing lube. The reason I used "Estimator" (for lack of knowing what to use as a name) is due to me being a project manager and estimator for a commerical and industrial paint company. Thus, I have access to gallons of ISO alcohol. Great tip, thanks.

Thanks for the reply. You didn't mention what you shoot the PRVI ammo in. Hoowever, I will probably go ahead and use the brass I have and evaluate things again after several loadings if all goes well. As far as the PRVI .224 bullets; I haven't shot any yet so no oponion.

Thanks for the info. I guess I will soak the cases down pretty good until I use up the rest of the One Shot and in the meantime order some of the Dillon's spray lube. I am alway quick to try a new product (new to me anyway) especially if it works better than what I have. Anything is better than going back to the old "felt pad and cold Karo Syrup type lube".

I have been reloading for many years and have never had a “stuck case” until yesterday. I recently obtained a new Bushmaster AR-15 and am loading .223 ammo for the first time. In addition to the brass I have already accumulated, (FC & Lake City), I ordered some Prvi Partizan .223 brass and bullets from Grafs, Inc. (It seemed like a good deal???). I started the sizing process and use Hornaday One Shot for lube. The One Shot works great and I have never had a problem. During the sizing session one of the shells offered a bit more resistance when entering the die, but nothing to be too concerned with. Upon beginning the ram down stroke, the shell holder pulled right thru the rim. So, off to the store to purchase a RCBS Stuck Shell Remover. I have put the remainder of the Prvi brass on the shelf until I decide whether to use it or not. If the brass is too soft for “mil spec” I don’t want to have a situation where the extractor pulls thru the rim and I end up on the range with a stuck case in the chamber. If others have had experience with Prvi Partizan brass/bullets, good or bad; your input is most welcome here.

I started loading around 1964 with the Lyman 310 tool and did so until about 1967 when I bought a Rock Chucker. Have had the press with me all these years and still use it a lot. Currently shoot 200 -300 9mm every Sat morning when possible. Yes, a lot of work with the rock Chucker. Work on shells in bit and pieces. Getting dressed in morning might deprime 50. Getting home from work might flare 50 while changing cloths, etc. Just loaded a batch of 375 H&H with different bullets, powder, etc., in preperation for moose season. Will always have use for Rock Chucker. However, would buy a Dillon 650 in a heartbeat if I had the money to do so.

Leozinho, Have been reading the replies to your post. Great response and good to know there are many out there with similar interest willing to share there experience. I especially like the response from “CocoBolo”. He is right on the money with suggestions, especially the case gauge advice. An example from my own experience: A few months ago I was trying a new cast bullet from a bullet caster here locally. The bullets were 125 grain RN with sort of a “stubby” shape compared to the various bullets I had been using. Plus, they were .256+ in diameter. I seated the bullets OAL 1.12 which was about as far forward as I could go and not have the lube grove exposed. After crimping the first bullet or two I placed them in a Wilson case gauge and they “clinked” freely right down to the headspace grove in the gauge. Next, I did the same thing with the barrel of a KAHR PM9. Once again, dropped right down to proper headspace on the front edge of the shell. For some reason I did not do the same with the barrel from a S&W 39-2, which I also shoot. Next day at the range I started off with the KAHR and all went well. Then the S&W 39. The slide on the 39 stopped between 1/16 and 1/8 inch from going all the way forward. I reached up and pushed with my thumb but it would not go forward. Later, I blackened the bullet in the cartridge and pressed it into the barrel. The bullet was hitting the rifling before the case could headspace. Whenever I use a new bullet type or for some reason change OAL on bullets I normally shoot, I check the first few with the barrel of every pistol I plan to shoot them in. If they ”clink” right down to the headspace grove then I at least know the pistol will cycle. Ps-Many companies produce quality cast bullets. Of late, I have been getting all my cast bullets from “Missouri Bullet Company”. I like the bullets, the price is really great and they ship immediately. I order “on line” and receive the package in three or four days.(To Alaska, which is rarely the case). Good luck and have many years of enjoyable reloading and shooting.

Wish I could be of help. Still trying to determine difference between standard and mag primers with different loads in 9x19. Last experence with small rifle primers in handgun loads was early 1980's with .454 Casull. I will be interested in reading replies from those who have had experience. Spent this morning at range with chrony. 9x19 is touchy cartridge when pressure reaches upper limits, especially with 147 lead having a long bearing surface. Though I was being somewhat conservitave with different loads. Some primers looked as if you had simply filled the primer pocket with murcury. Ouch! Hard on the gun for sure.

I just read all of your replies. I can only add that safety must always come first. Always.

I just received 500 pcs of 147 gr from Missouri Bullet Company. I really like their bullets and I have never seen a better price. Plus, with flat rate shipping they sent me 1000 125gr and 500 147gr to Fairbanks Alaska for about $10.00. Plus- (you have got to love this) I ordered the bullets on-line June 26 and they arrived June 29!! After dealing with seemingly the whole world on "back order" I am just stunned by the promptness of the order.

Have enjoyed reading response to your post. Have been reloading for almost 50 years and yesterday purchased Vahtavuori powder for the first time. One pound of 3N37 and one pound of N320. Cost, $46.00 per pound! Yes, that is correct-no typo. Don't know what it is elsewhere, but in Fairbanks it is $46.00. Hope to try the new powder this weekend with 125 and 147 lead in 9X19. Bullets from Missouri Bullet Company. Will run test through chrony using mag primers (Why mag primers? Because that is all I have.) Ps- The very first loading I did in 1963 was with a Lyman 310 tool and 2400 powder. The powder was about $3.15 a pound.

This is a follow-up to the Post I entered on June 19 “Magnum Primers in 9mm” The test consisted of three different amounts of HS-6, Starline +P brass, Federal Small Pistol Regular and CCI Small Pistol Magnum primers. Bullets were Missouri Bullet Company 9MM .356, BH18, 125Grain RN. Velocity measurements from a “Shooting Chrony Alpha” placed approx 5 ft from muzzle. Results is average of 5-shot strings. Pistols used were a S&W Model 639 and KAHR PM9. The PM9 was included to see how much difference the 3 inch barrel would make. Results: 5.7 grains HS-6 S&W Regular Primer 1017fps Magnum Primer 1023fps 5.7 grains HS-6 KAHR “ 905fps “ 896fps 6.2 grains HS-6 S&W Regular Primer 1108fps Magnum Primer 1119fps 6.2 grains HS-6 KAHR “ 978fps “ 979fps 6.4 grains HS-6 S&W Regular Primer 1177fps Magnum Primer 1131fps 6.4 grains HS-6 KAHR “ 1050fps “ 993fps There are several things to consider here. The test velocity readings were from a 5 shot average and would benefit from a much larger average. The Magnum Primers are fairly old. As I mentioned in the original Post I bought them “out of desperation” at an estate auction. Judging from the style of box in which the primers are packaged, and the price stickers, I suspect the primers are 12 to 17 years old. Furthermore, one type of powder was used. A similar test with a wide variety of powders would be beneficial. I doubt the age of the primers would be a factor if they were stored correctly, but think it is worth mentioning. There were two goals in conducting this test. One, see if there was much of a velocity difference, and second (and more importantly) try to determine if the magnum primers caused a noticeable increase in pressure. The pressure issue is difficult to judge by just looking at the fired primers resulting from only one type of relatively slow burning powder. Especially since the Federal primers are quite soft and the CCI primers are much harder. However, it did not seem that the pressure was excessive in any of the loads. I hope this provides at least a bit of information to those readers with similar concerns.

This is a follow-up to the Post I entered on June 19 “Magnum Primers in 9mm” The test consisted of three different amounts of HS-6, Starline +P brass, Federal Small Pistol Regular and CCI Small Pistol Magnum primers. Bullets were Missouri Bullet Company 9MM .356, BH18, 125Grain RN. Velocity measurements from a “Shooting Chrony Alpha” placed approx 5 ft from muzzle. Results is average of 5-shot strings. Pistols used were a S&W Model 639 and KAHR PM9. The PM9 was included to see how much difference the 3 inch barrel would make. Results: 5.7 grains HS-6 S&W Regular Primer 1017fps Magnum Primer 1023fps 5.7 grains HS-6 KAHR “ 905fps “ 896fps 6.2 grains HS-6 S&W Regular Primer 1108fps Magnum Primer 1119fps 6.2 grains HS-6 KAHR “ 978fps “ 979fps 6.4 grains HS-6 S&W Regular Primer 1177fps Magnum Primer 1131fps 6.4 grains HS-6 KAHR “ 1050fps “ 993fps There are several things to consider here. The test velocity readings were from a 5 shot average and would benefit from a much larger average. The Magnum Primers are fairly old. As I mentioned in the original Post I bought them “out of desperation” at an estate auction. Judging from the style of box in which the primers are packaged, and the price stickers, I suspect the primers are 12 to 17 years old. Furthermore, one type of powder was used. A similar test with a wide variety of powders would be beneficial. I doubt the age of the primers would be a factor if they were stored correctly, but think it is worth mentioning. There were two goals in conducting this test. One, see if there was much of a velocity difference, and second (and more importantly) try to determine if the magnum primers caused a noticeable increase in pressure. The pressure issue is difficult to judge by just looking at the fired primers resulting from only one type of relatively slow burning powder. Especially since the Federal primers are quite soft and the CCI primers are much harder. However, it did not seem that the pressure was excessive in any of the loads. I hope this provides at least a bit of information to those readers with similar concerns.

Replies to "magnum primers in 9mm" have been appreciated. This weekend I hope to do some testing at the range where I run duplicate loads side by side with powder, brass, bullets, etc being the same with the exception of using Federal 100 small pistol primers in one group and CCI 550 small pistol magnum primers in the other group. All shots with various amounts of Hogdon HS-6 will be fired through a chronograph and the average velocity and indications of pressure change noted. I will write up the results next week. Testing will be with a S&W 639. I also run the same lot of bullets through a KAHR PM-9 just to see how much difference in velocity there is between the two barrel lengths. Also, I just plain enjoy shooting the little KAHR.

Magnum primers in 9mm As in most of the country, primers, powder and brass are in short supply here in Alaska, especially primers. Out of desperation, I recently purchased a large amount of Small Pistol Magnum primers at an estate auction. Now I am faced with the challenge of figuring out how to safely use them in my various 9x19 handguns. As most serious reloaders know, the 9mm cartridge is sensitive to change and using magnum primers with the wrong combination powder, bullet, OAL etc, could be “not a good thing”. The bullet I have been using lately for weekend target shooting/load development is 125 gr rn BH18 .356 from the Missouri Bullet Company. Brass is Starline 9mm+P and powders vary from 231, HS-6, Titegroup, Universal Clays, Unique. It seems that using a fairly slow powder with good shell filling capacity such as HS-6 or possibly Blue Dot and working up slowly would be a good way to go. The primers I normally use are Federal 100 which seem to be of fairly soft metal in that they can flatten somewhat when in fact the pressure does not seem excessive. Although I have experimented with many combinations in 9mm from “barely able to cycle the slide” to “oh my, too much +P” my main goal is the seemingly never-ending search for a very accurate load with good velocity which does not overly stress the pistol. The three pistols I commonly shoot in 9mm are S&W Model 39-2, S&W Model 639 and KAHR PM-9. Input from others concerning the above discussion will be greatly appreciated.