david.bergen

Could you post a picture off the modification? Do you drill the hole in between the two ports (in the middle off the baffle) or do you drill it in the second (mid) port? Thanks, David

Tim, That's make sense. I am used to bolt action triggers . So if I understand correct the extra engagement is needed for a semi automatic rifle to operate savely. I only notice it when I am shooting groups (load developement.) When installing I followed the guidelines so the trigger will probably be ok. I'll check he dimension and make sure (thanks for the metric version) David

The lower is a German milled billet receiver. I tried moly lube on the trigger but that didn't help.

Yes I have followed the instruction and looked at the dvd. Here they tell to turn the screw untill the hammer falls (do it a few times so you know the exact setting) and then turn the screw a half turn back so you have a save sear engagement. If I do it that way I feel creep on the trigger. I can use a less than half turn and the trigger becomes much better , but I don't know if it's still save/durable. I am used to finely tuned rifle triggers so maybe I am wanting to much. David I live in Belgium so having JP install the trigger is no option

Hi everybody, After an awfull long wait I finally have my JP trigger. (competition trigger, yellow springs, speed hammer and oversize trigger pins) I installed it per the instructions provided, I have a fairly light trigger but it isn't as crisp as I like. I turned the engagement screw until it released the hammer and then turned a half turn back. When I test the trigger is has creep before it relases the hammer. When you look at the hammer you actually see it move when you pull the trigger a bit. I can eliminate the hammer movement and the creep if I adjust the screw less then the half turn back. The less I turn the screw the crisper the trigger becomes. How low can one go and still have a durable , save trigger? Thanks, David

Kurt, Thank you for the info on the mandrel and lock tite. Are there other accuracy secrets out there? What about bolt lapping and trueing the bolt face or is this all a waiste off time and labour on the AR 15 David

I have been thinking about glas bedding the barrel extension to the receiver but am a bit worried with the heat it gets. Good to hear loctite is good alternatif. Kurt have you made a mandrel to chuck the receiver up in the lathe? Can you share some info on it? Thanks

You can visit the autor's website and read the article , he has written. www.riflemanconsulting.com then click om the Precision shooting cover. Enjoy, David

The article in Precision shooting is by Steve Adelmann.(march 2009) He states in the text :" I have yet to encounter an AR that hasn't tightened up noticeably after truing the receiver" He states that seating the barrel extension squarely and aligning the bore with upper receiver gives better accuracy. Because I have to start from zero , I thought that maybe it is a good thing to do. I know it is absolute necessary in a benchrest rifle that everything issquare and aligned for the best accuracy , but as I stated the AR is very new for me. I'll think I'll be very happy if I can build a 0.5 moa rifle, that wrks everytime you pull the trigger. The rifles are going to be used for practical matches and long distance target shooting ( 400m with front and rear rest f-class style for semi auto rifles) We need licenses for every rifle we own so e want to shoot them in as much types off competition as possible. David

I read an article in Precision shooting about building an accurate AR15. In the article they talk about lapping the upper where the barrel extension meets. The autor did it with a special tool from Brownells. He claimed that this makes a hugh improvement in accuracy sometimes it turns a 2 moa rifle in 0.7 moa rifle. Anybody got experience with this technique? Using a good trigger a free float tube and a quality barrel makes for very accurate ar15's he also states.... I am new to building AR 15 but have build some serious long range and benchrest rifles so i know the trics (action blue printing, bolt lapping,custom reamers,bedding, etc...) to make them shoot. I start from Lothar Walther stainless blancs and have a 223 Wylde reamer. So I can lathe turn the contour I want, custom placement of the gas port , gas port size,..... I just need some dimensions and tips. Are there any dark secrets for getting the most out off an AR15, installing a barrel,tuning the gas system .if so please help me out. I live in Europe (Belgium) and it is almost impossible to get parts, uppers, due to the export restrictions. There are some firms that are making lowers and upper( in europe) but the rest we have to build ourselves. Thanks, David

Anybody willing to send me a comp? David

We ordered some alu cariers to give them a try. When we receive them I'll post some pictures . Are there any speciality's involved in setting up the gun correctely. I read about rifle length gas systems,but we use mostly carbine over here. Adjustable gasblocs... we machine our barrels from blancs so we can choose the gas port size and gas system length so maybe they are not needed. So if you have dimensions that work (port size, barrel length, barrel length after the port,buffer,....) feel free to post them All suggestions are welcome.

Hi everybody, A friend and I started building our ar 15. Because it's very difficult to get American parts in Europe some firms started to mill there own receiver and uppers. One firm is also offering an aluminum bolt carier. Do you think this a good option or should we stay with a steel one. They are more expensive but we were told it should give a smoother shooting rifle. Anybody any idea's on reliability and durability? Thanks, David

That could be a solution. I don't need the installation papers ...just the comp. That way nobody would know it's a comp. On the other hand I don't want people to get in trouble. I started to read the ITAR on the web and I don't know if it is applicable to a little comp. I don't think it high tech technologie or rocket sience material etc. I guess one can interpret it in different ways, and I am no lawyer for sure... Still interested in a comp though Regards, David

Hi everybody, I just received a mail from Chris at Cpwsa that he can't ship a comp to me. I live in Belgium so it's not possible for him due to export laws. Does anybody has a solution,, Maybe know a Nordic dealer in Canada that can export...,dealer in Europe? Thanks, David