rugerdawg

I just ordered the spike's dynacomp for my .308. I'll post a report as soon as I get a chance to compare it to the stock a2 that came on it.

I did find it a bit strange that CMMG makes their own .308 SS magazine but chose to ship mine with a P-mag.

I did find it a bit strange that CMMG, whom I believe makes their own .308 mag, shipped mine with a p-mag.

I recently picked up a cmmg .308 16" sst lightweight ar10. It came with one 20 rd.p-mag. I clearly need more mags. During my search for p-mags I noticed that c-products makes a stainless steel 20 rd mag for around $13.00. Has anyone here tried the c-products mag or any other than the p-mag and what were your results?

I recently purchased a 16"lightweight ar-10 type carbine in .308 and as a member here was quick to warn me, "Recoil is a little harsh." This is not for 3-gun but more for general use (plinking, hog hunting...)so I find myself looking for a comp/flash hider to tame the recoil a bit. I know from reading in this forum about your preferences for 3-gun but I'm willing to give up some performance for one not quite as loud as say the "titan". Anyway I've run across spike's .308 dynacomp and was wondering if anyone had tried it or had some other suggestions.

I guess I should state that the reason I'm going to a lighter platform is to use the gun for hog hunting or at least a gun I can tote a while through the woods. My other ar10 although truly a sub moa gun was really heavy and for all intent purposes a bench gun. I won't know until I shoot it but you make a good point about the 16" gas system being harsher to shoot. I will look into a different barrel and gas system if this one doesn't perform like I hope. I had already considered an 18" lightweight JP.

I've been shooting a armalite ar-10T cut from 24" to 18" for awhile and it is still, at least for this skinny ole man very heavy. Dropped into my new local gun store and they had a cmmg .308 16" sst light barrel. WOW...it seemed so nice and light. well I kicked around picking it up for a few days and went back to get it. Of course it was already gone. Long story short I sold my ar-10 to a buddy and ordered the cmmg which should be here this weekend. It supposedly comes with a 1 moa guarantee and is patterned after the DPMS,sr-25 mags. Just curious if anyone here has one and might have any feedback?

I'm fairly new to this game and I'm trying to get in without breaking the bank again. In keeping with the "buy once cry once" I have an ar15 I built a few years ago as my go to , do everything gun but of course the first thing you discover is that theory doesn't hold up so I'm trying to make mods as I go. Currently I have a Leupold Mark 4, 4.5 x 14 on my gun which is way to much for this game. I just looked at a Sight Mark 1 x 6 illuminated scope and I can't recall anybody on this site even mentioning one so ...anyone here ever use one...?

Thank you folks, with strap wrench in hand I'm off to the workbench.

I need some help removing a 11" Larue rail. I don't have the instructions and can't remember if there is a special wrench needed to remove it and if it has a proprietary barrel nut. It's mounted on a gun I had built 5 or 6 years ago and sort of just got tucked away in the safe. It has POF gen2 lower, Geissle SSA trigger, Young NM BCG and magpul UBR stock with a Vltor Mur upper, Krieger mid-length gas, 16" Recon profile barrel and a Vltor gas block and comp. I'd like to try for 3gun. I've spent the past three years recovering from a car wreck and surgury and I'm weak and it's front heavy to me.I just picked up a 11" Troy Extreme to replace it with and would like to do the work myself. By the way I'm at work and the internet nazis at my place of employment keep us from accessing most usable gun related websites. Thanks for your help.

The best hi-capacity 10/22 mags on this planet are made by tactical solutions. Aluminum, adjustable and bullet proof....but...expensive

I have to second the troy trx, slim and solid.

Nordic Components has a Wilson and a Lilja barrel, both 16" midlength,1:8 twist and both seem to get good reviews. I built one with the lilja barrel, corvette comp, low profile gas block and the troy 13" extreme rail that balanced very nicely and shot right at 1 moa with good ammo.

I just used one from Yankee Hill Machine that clamped on. The price was reasonable and it appears to be very solid.

I have an old pull golf cart with the bigger wheels that might just work for a project like this.

Thanks for the replies folks. I have not been back to the range due to unseasonally heavy rain which leaves my range underwater, but I have done some manual checking and have found that when locked back manually the catch is indeed holding on the bolt and not the carrier. All the parts are installed correctly and the catch seems to function smoothly. I'll get to the range this week to check on the possible short-stroking issue. On a side note I took several of my other ar's and tried the same test (lock the bolt to the rear manually and hit the buttstock on a hard surface to varying degrees and to my surprise all of them slammed closed). I would have to surmise that this is normal. It was really the ease with which this particular new one closed that alarms me. Time will tell.

I was at the range the other day with a friend whose lower I assembled. The issue I'm puzzled about is that his bolt would lock open after the last round in the mag was fired just as it should but would slam closed with just the slightest touch of the buttstock or jarring of the gun.(at our range guns have to be placed in a rack off the shooting line with open chambers during "cease fire". Just gently placing the gun in the rack caused the bolt to close. I have assembled many lowers and this is the first time I have really noticed this. Is it common or could the part be out of spec or installed incorrectly?

My primary goal was to reduce recoil but I just also happen to prefer the cheekweld and compactness of the sopmod stock and was hoping to retain the softer recoil of the rifle system.

Thanks for the replies, I will do some testing with some different buffers as suggested. The original question came about due to my previous experience with my ar-10 and having gas problems. I haven't even shot the ar-15 yet and was just hoping to avoid the same issues. I have built 10 ar's over the past few years of all sorts of configurations (legos for big boys)with great success. I know this isn't rocket science but it is sure nice to have people who have been there to help others avoid mistakes.

I can't figure out why no one will address this issue. Is this stuff top secret or is the answer so obvious that only a dummy like myself can't figure it out? How did the heavier buffer work out for you?

I have an ar-15t (24" cut 1o 18")and obviously a rifle gas system. It is presently set up with a std. a2 stock,rifle buffer and spring and I would like to change it to a lmt sopmod (carbine buffer). Do I need to use something other than a std. h buffer or heavier? I built an ar-10t which I did the same thing (24" to 18")and after I switched to the ar-10 carbine buffer tube , spring and buffer I experienced serious ftf's and fte's from short stroking. I redrilled the gas port to the next size up and it has functioned perfectly since. Hopefully someone here has done the same thing and can chime in here. I would have to assume all you 3-gunners running 18" barrels with carbine stocks would have a take on this, although mid-length gas systems seem to be more in vogue.

I am considering this rail for a AR-15T (24" shortened to 18") and was wondering if anyone is using one? This is primarily a bench gun but will second for a hog gun so I'm trying to lighten it up as much as possible, short of reprofiling the barrel.