pyrrhic3gun
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Posts posted by pyrrhic3gun
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+1 On the 627. If you get into revo competition, that means ICORE. You're gonna want an 8-shooter (Limited or Open category). They're set up for moon clips and you can get good quality clips. Plenty of hunting bullets available for .357, too.
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OK, so you have the DPMS LR308 double-spring (p/n 308-bt-08) and two (not one) #1 o-rings under the extractor?
If it doesn't work with that, then I would suggest an adjustable gas block to close down the gas a little, and an Endine buffer from Brownells.
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Make it use these. :^)
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Another possibility is that the magazine follower is slipping by and hanging on the slide stop.
Take the slide off, put the slide stop back in place on the receiver, then insert an empty mag.
See if the mag follower is positively engaging the slide stop or if the follower could slip by and hang up.
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There was another post a while back where the guy couldn't get the trigger to reset properly. The gun was just dirty. Have you taken it apart completely and cleaned it lately?
I had some crazy stuff happen when the trigger bow broke on mine a few years ago.
When you dry fire do you use empty mags? Make sure you try all your mags...maybe one is messed up, like you thought.
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You're trimming the cases to length after sizing, right?
Maybe a bad lot of brass?
I had some bad brass that would stop a gun a couple of decades ago. :^)
When you say "crater out" the brass, what does that entail?
I can't really see how a dirty gas system would stick the cases in the chamber, so I guess the tilt check isn't necessary.
(this guy has some other good M1A videos)
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From your description, I don't see how there's any problem with the ammo.
Tell us how you've determined the brass is sticking. Does the brass remain in the chamber?
Or are you just getting failure to eject?
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I built one last year. Used Wilson's 16" barrel with mid-length gas block. Works like a charm. The brass is easy to form. Makes major easily with cheaper bulk Remington 150 PSPCL bullets (correct OAL, too). I like the Nosler 140gr Custom Comp bullet, but Nosler needs to move the cannelure rearward on the bullet to get perfect OAL for this cartridge (it makes Major easily, too).
The thing about mags is the width of the "shoulders" in the mag that ride on the neck of a .223 cartridge which are about .247" in diameter.
On the 7.62x40 (or as I like to call it, the 30x40) those shoulders are riding on the bullet which is .308, so the shoulders are too narrow in a quality stock magazine. That causes the bullets to start nose diving in the lower part of the mag when you get close to maximum capacity.
I have found that the cheap 40-round AR mags don't have the shoulders formed as deeply, so they work for the 30x40.
Wilson's Lancer 30-rounders work fine. I have gotten 20 rounders to work by machining the shoulders to proper size.
My only problem? Most of the matches that I go to have changed over to time-plus scoring with one A or two hits anywhere on the target neutralizing the target, which makes a major 3-gun rifle unnecessary. But if i ever go wild hog hunting, I've got the gun.
I had some Sierra 125 Pro-Hunters for that...again, perfect OAL.
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+1 on the ICORE club.
If you look at their website (ICORE.ORG), you can shoot pretty much any combo you have in one of their categories (Limited, Classic, Open). Six-shooters with speedloaders in Classic, 6 or more (moon clips OK) with no glass or ports in Limited, and pretty much anything goes in Open.
That said, the overwhelming majority shoot S&W. The 8-shot 627 will serve you well in Limited or Open, but whatever you have will work until you get the bug for more.
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I had a trigger crack through where the creep take-up tab is on the trigger bow.
Sure acted strange. So you just have to disassemble the gun and see what's up.
Good luck.
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After looking at the specs on the thing, I've got to say you need more mill. Trust me, you're gonna want more cowbell, er mill. :^)
That one only has about 16" x 6" of travel. The first time you want to put sights on a long gun, you'll wish you had more. And once your friends know you have a mill, you'll have plenty of projects longer than that.
I've had a slightly bigger one in my garage for 20 years and have had plenty of times I wanted more.
The specs I see say it weighs 936 pounds...you can wrestle it around pretty easily.
If you think you might use a lot of cutting fluid, you might consider a big drip pan for it.
With that said, it is such a joy to have the resource, when you want it...have fun.
Edit: Speaking of the smaller one, of course.
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I'd guess a difference in the way your dies are forming the shoulder of the brass. Maybe forming a larger radius than the new factory cartridge. Or possibly a slightly different shoulder angle. Closely compare your formed brass to the factory stuff.
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OAL?
Don't know what the max is in a Glock, but I wouldn't suggest trying major at standard 9x19 lengths. Just looked at Hodgdon's loading info and the max is 5.0 of HS6 under a 147...that's a long way from 7.
Did you check to make sure the bullet wasn't jammed into the lands when it first chambered? That'll jump the pressure a bunch.
Also, you have to have a fully supported chamber, no deep ramping.
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Of course, my previous reply assumes you have an undamaged gas tube and key in your upper.
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Yep, sounds like it's just short strokin'. Check the gas rings on the bolt. Do you have resistance to the bolt moving in and out of the carrier? If no resistance, replace the rings.
Otherwise, open up the gas port in the barrel...or shoot hotter loads.
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I'll just say "yes, please". Reloading in a box to make two more shots is no fun and I prefer to have fun.
Secondarily, what's so tough about having an Open Revo category for 8-shooters?.
Let's see, for pistol we have Open, Limited, Limited 10, SingleStack, Production.
One more would hurt someone's feelings? :^)
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My first reaction to the pic with six bullets was "those bullets sure have a sharp transition from the .355 diameter to the conical nose section". Maybe it's my imagination, but it looks like the three on the right are seated out a little longer. So I think the bullet is running into the gage where the lands would normally start in a barrel.
Try pulling the bullets and loading some standard FMJ bullets in the cases that wouldn't gage.
If they work, I'd say ream the gage or buy a gage that'll accept your bullets.
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That's the thing, isn't it. Do you want to continue to check extractor tension every time you have the gun apart, replacing or retuning extractors that have gone out of tune...or, do you just want to put in an Aftec and have it run. Granted the springs on an Aftec can eventually fatigue, but they last a LOT longer than standard extractors (in my experience, anyway).
I use both, but if a standard gives me any hint of problem, it's Aftec time.
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Creole Belle by James Lee Burke. This guy seems like one of the best unknown writers of what I'll call detective mysteries ala Clancy...only the Dave Robicheaux series (New Orleans detective) puts the southern twist on it.
Three of his books are movies. They are all entertaining reads (to me), but serious enough that I wouldn't give them to children.
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I was wondering about that last night when I realized the last press release was from February, 2011.
I suppose, like the old joke, they "didn't have anything new to say."
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Lots of possibilities.
Sounds like the round is crunched into the chamber, not letting the bolt twist to unlock.
Gage the ammo. May be oversize.
If not, have the gun checked for headspace. May be undersize.
Is the chamfer at rear of chamber adequate (possibly causing dent during feeding)?
Where on the case is this "significant dent"?
Is the neck diameter correct?
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Is the revo match at Rio Salado (in Mesa, AZ) on December 2 going to be the ICORE postal match?
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Patrick,
I just pulled one of my 608's out and refreshed my memory on disassembly.
Pull the cylinder/crane assembly out, unscrew the center pin (remember it's left hand threaded) with some empty cases in place to prevent damage to the guide pins, and then pull the ejector/star out of the cylinder. Hold the crane and the cylinder should come off with a tap of a soft mallet.
There's a collar in the cylinder that locks into a groove on the crane...as long as the star is in the cylinder, the collar can't flex enough to allow the crane to be removed.
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I'm trying to twist the barrel out of one of these things (this one is a 1950's pump .22).
Machined a nice bronze bushing to put it into my barrel vise, put some tension on it with my 2 ton jack, but it doesn't want to budge. So, rather than mess it up, I thought I might check to see if these are right or left hand threads. Anybody had one apart?
1100 Malfunction
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
Check your interrupter latch. If it's bad it could allow the shell to go deeper in the magazine under recoil and then be stopped by the feed latch, which keeps it in the magazine.