bubbadoc
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Posts posted by bubbadoc
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The disconnector is through the frame and moves freely, returning quickly after being depressed. Without the thumb safety installed the trigger works fine, (although my left hand is tired of taking the brunt of the hammer fall to keep it from striking the frame)
As for the originally installed sear spring, after I mucked it up I broke a cardinal rule and threw it away so am unable to replicate its positioning..... I am starting to think that the issue is the spring is a little long and the left leg is getting caught under the thumb safety (or the slot at the bottom is allowing the spring to ride up too high). Unless someone sees something obvious in these photos I will be ordering another tri-glide spring (I have tried two 'normal' sear springs and they have also not allowed the trigger to work ...)
Here is a photo of the thumb safety installed, in the down and then up position. Hard to take a good close up.
Once again THANKS for all of the help
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First try at posting a picture. Here two up close with the hammer cocked and without grip or thumb safety. If this works let me know what other shots to post (although my camera just switched to German on the screen... everything seems to be against me lately
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Jadeslide-
Good question, but yes I am.
K
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Thanks for all of the help. Still can't get it working, but will stay after it. Everything appears to be OK on the sear spring positioning, so it is driving me crazy that by just replacing the sear spring that the thumb safety will not allow the mechanism to work.
Deep breath, repeat, try again (and I tried other sear springs... and I have done this before for 1911's....breath...)
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Bill-
Yes you understand all of the facts (as listed in both posts)..... Actually looking at it, the right leaf is touching the polymer frame... will that matter???.
Kevin
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It appears to be touching the stirrup ok... the trigger is able to work without the grip safety in place and I cannot push a probe between the stirrup and left sear spring when the hammer is cocked...
Well, it works without the grip safety .. until I install the thumb safety without the grip safety in place..... But I did not modify anything... I have only changed the sear spring...
AAAArrrrgggghhhhhh
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I have heard good things about them, so you are probably ok. Doesn't matter how they stack up to the 'eleite' pistols... if you run a few hundred rounds through one, like it and there are no hiccups.... CARRY IT...
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Never a bad thing to lurk and learn.... Never a bad thing to become active. Welcome and good choices in SIGS...
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I bought a used SVI 2011 and after some use decided to switch to an arched MSH (big hands...). The grip safety on the pistol had been disabled with a pin on the bottom and the right leg of the sear spring was doubled/ folded down. Since I had never been around such a situation I mucked up the sear spring trying to put it back together. I have a new SVI triglide spring (has not been folded) and when I try to reassemble the pistol the trigger will not move. The issue is resolved if I do not put the left side of the thumb safety in (ie works without thumb safety or even with the grip safety and the right half of the thumb safety installed to hold it in place)
So, since I did not modify the thumb or grip safety, what do I need to do to get this thing running. I hate to take any metal off a previously working thumb safety and am now pulling what little hair out I have left. I am willing to take the pin off the grip safety but that does not seem to be an issue...
HELP.... HELP....
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Do what you want, as it is worth learning about the 1911... however, I would suggest a couple of other options...
-start with a base gun that is already functioning and upgrade parts. This could be an older used gun or a new RIA or ??? that is ok but you will be able to track improvements. This forces you to learn how to take it apart and gives you the ability to visually and tactilely compare the as installed fit with what you fit
- start with a bare frame and first build it up as a base for a 22 Conversion unit so you do not have to worry immediately about slide to frame fit or barrel to slide fit. I followed this route and liked it as I was able to shoot the pistol a lot earlier that way and get good range feedback as to the worth of my work...
As to books, Kuhnhasuen is good, plus there is a lot of good basic info on the vast wasteland of the internet...
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Good length as the others said. Don't err on the long side as mine gets picky quickly... (found out the hard way by taking rounds I had loaded long for my STI as the only ammo one day to the range...quick trip)
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Great curves/ look on that long slide... me want.
I think I will leave the little one on the vine until it grows some more
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I don't have the link either, but Massad has written about some issues with mods, etc especially with trigger pulls in American Handgunner. That is why the MA Ed Brown pistol has a 4.5# pull
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Wilson ETMs in my Trojan run great also. On any 9mm mag you buy just do a visual inspection to make sure the top of the mag and the ejector to assure clearance. Seem to recall some issues written up about that in the past
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Jim Shepherd did a write up about it in his Shooting Wire email this last week. He claims to be mechanically disinclined but went slow and had NO issues. He was absolutely up beat about the unit...
(BTW Shooting Wire is one of a set of emails that list different headlines and press releases in the shooting industry every week.... definately worth the FREE cost
sign up today...) -
Appreciate the advice. I think I will try the 17....
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Just curious... I have set up a dedicated Caspian frame for my Marvel 22 unit and was wondering how low can I go on the mainspring??? I was just thinking of playing around in order to get a slightly lighter trigger pull but am worried about ignition. So before I buy a few springs, where should I aim ????
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GREETINGS from the West side of the Metroplex. Pull up a chair, read, learn and share. Lots of great folks and info on this site.!!!!
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I just picked up a nice used 41 on Gunbroker. Got the short heavy barrel AND a lighter sporter barrel equipped with an Ultradot (all for $900). It will be tomorrow before I get a chance to run rounds through it (and that is driving me crazy
). There have been several apparently great deals of late on Gunbroker for 41's so I would suggest at least window shopping on there... -
That's the right attitude. You now have a good system that will run. Nothing else to do until the case feeder bug hits you.
Congrats on joining us on the RED side of the reloading room
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Absolutely check the sights!!!! I have had more than one pistol come back from a Smith with 'automatically adjusting' sites... aka loose screws or no Locktite on the screws
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I grip with the middle finger of the strong hand, but then really think about the weak hand. Humans can't really multitask, so slipping the thought process to the weak hand before thinking about the squeeze works best for me when I am ... messing up....
Always work the grip. I like the Gripmaster as it works all of the fingers with separate springs. I have two of the extra strong. One at work and one at home/ for travel so that I can do some hand strengthening every day.
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If you have access to a good Para smith then.... buy the GUN!!!! Seems like the issues brought up about the 18-9 you have addressed in that as a revo shooter you are used to a longer trigger pull and you know a smith for a 'just in case' issue.
If the pistol is old and a little beat up to me that means that it runs so has been shot a lot... which means there shouldn't be a major issue with it... just possibly some TLC needed on springs, etc in it.
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Welcome from the West side of the Metroplex. Grab a cup of coffee, pull up your chair, read learn and share a little. A mighty friendly and GREAT group here!!!
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sign up today...)
). There have been several apparently great deals of late on Gunbroker for 41's so I would suggest at least window shopping on there...
SVI trigger conundrum
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Flatland - the thumb safety gap was my fault... I did a quick install of the thumb safety and did not push it all together.
whatmeworry - thanks, I may try to file a little on the sear spring, but am hesitant to mess it up...but what have I to loose???
Rory, here is a pic w/o the MSH in place. The sear spring may be too high, but it is sitting in the slot