RustySocket

I noticed some slop as well in the shellplate. I can't go as fast as I do with pistol cases. I'm using RCBS dies and am not having to hand feed the cases however.

Unique

I don't have a credible source of data so I won't state this as fact but a quick search of the KB's on most gun forums that I could find the trend was a suspected double charged handload or a squib handload backed by another round. I couldn't find any reference to this happening with a factory piece. I'm sure it has happened but statistically it's in a different sigma than what occurs with reloads. The difference is only you have to worry about your reloads. The manufacturer has to worry about everyone's. I think the line they have draw coupled with some common sense from the customer retention department is a reasonable position. Look at all the disclaimers that come with your reloading equipment and components. There was a post on another forum the other day where a guy indicated he didn't have data for a bullett/powder. He'd contacted alliant and was upset because they wouldn't tell him his load was safe, indicated he was going to do it anyway and if he kb'd the gun he'd figure out who he was going to sue..... those are the types of people that scare me and they scare the manufacturers as well. I guess my point of all this is unless you are prepared to deal with the consequences of using reloads, up to and including having your warranty voided you should heed the advice in the owners manual.

Yes I agree there is no warranty against stupidity. But if your rear sight won't stay in place it should be replace for seller am I right. I save the guns price very fast when I reaload so I just bought the gun without warranty but the seller lost price for all the reloading componets and seven new guns which I didn't bought him for the last ten years. Thats many, many times what that gun was worth. Yes your are right. shooting reloads has nothing to do with a defective gun. And I agree that I wouldn't do business with someone like that either. I was thinking more along the lines of damage done by obvious reloading mistakes, that was all. I hadn't considred other types of defects. One would think that there would be some degree of burden of proof that the ammo caused the failure. I would also think that your warranty has nothing to do with the dealer. It is a contract between you and the manufacturer. However I would not give a dealer like you had any business either. He must not be the sharpest tool in the economic shed. I have had lots of good weapons and some that I felt were junk. The dealer I use the most treats me very well, gives me the best prices he can on trades, and cuts me a break on components. He is a little more pricey than the big box outfitter on some items and cheaper on others. I don't nickel and dime him and he doesn't try to make his months profit off of me. I don't expect him to absorb a bulged barrell and I don't think he'd try to pass the buck on a non ammo related issue to me. If he did he would be making a very dumb economic move as I don't plan on stopping shooting or purchasing new guns in the near future. badchad, I searched up your post on your KB. Thats a scary situation and one that always makes me a little nervous when loading on a progressive. Glad you weren't hurt. I hope to never have that happen.

what was the cause of the failure?

Ive' got lee, rcbs and dillon dies. The only thing I have found with the lee dies is that the lock ring is at the end of the threads on the 550 toolhead. I know some guys switch out the lee rings and get the dillon locknuts. I did that on one set and on the other set of lee's I just put the lock ring under the toolhead from the bottom. If I were buying brand new dies I'd probably just get the dillons at this point as they are nice dies and easy to clean without losing your adjustments. But I wouldn't replace something I already owned just for the sake of spending money.

I'm on the fence of this one. I see both sides. As a manufacturer you simply cannot warranty against stupidity. And there are a lot of morons out there who will try just about anything to get something for free. On the other hand there is no significant difference between a moderate reload and factory ammo..... except that the reloads are probably more accurate and work better. If you blow up your gun I think the manufacturer would be in the right to void the warranty. For other failures my guess is they would be hard pressed to determne that your reload was the cause of the problem. I mean the gun doens't know the difference. High end race guns aside. The most expensive part of shooting is the ammo. If I get 30K through my glock a new barrel or even a whole gun is a trivial portion of the cost. I wouldn't hesitate to shoot my reloads, warranty or not as I enjoy reloading as much as I do shooting.

I ran 100 through my G20 last weekend. No signs of overpressure, but is on the hot side. Not worth pulling the bullets however. My brother in law likes to shoot hot so we will run through them on squirrels this spring. Normally I'd have done a little range testing prior to ripping out 500rds but the excitement of a new 550 got the best of me.... lesson learned. I have a chrony coming so will post data when available. I picked up two more manuals. Lyman 49 and Lee's Modern Reloading. As indicated on this thread my load is over the max recomended in those two manuals.

I would try... but she "forced" me to trade a gun just to get this one. I don't want to get a bad trend going here. In my 42 years I have sold two guns.... A walther .22 that everyone but me coluld get to feed consistently, and the calico M900 that had issues as well. Now if the vacuum happens to blow up again... The casefeeder on the other hand is only a brick of .223 these days.

Thanks to everyone who responded. I picked up a 550.

Thanks.. I was having so much fun I ran out of cases before I realized it. Decided to switch calibers and ended up in this situation.. I hear you on the primers through the vacuum. I used to reload in the house and had that happen once. I did a little studying of the setup and was actually able to unbolt the setup and remove them without dropping any of them. Now I know better. Thanks again for the help

In the process of switching over from large primers to small primers. I made the assumption that If I simply pulled the primer insert magazine from the feeder tube that the primers left would come out with the feed tube. Obviously that is not what happened. I now have about 30 primers stacked up inside and assume I am going to have to dissasemble it to remove them. What is the proper way to remove unused primers from the 550 so I don't have this problem in the future when converting between sizes. Thanks

Thanks for the data. The load is intended for 25-50 yard varmit hunting. I backed off the charge and loaded 5 of each at 6.8, 7.1 and 7.4. I'm going to the range this morning to check them and will evaluate the cases prior to shooting the 7.5.... if not safe I have a LOT of bullet pulling ahead of me.. lol thanks again. Do you happen to know of any published data specifically for Rainer and Berrys. I have always used the speer manual substituting data in the mid range based on bullet similarity to speer. It would be nice to see some data for the bulk stuff that I have.

Something isn't making sense to me. Alliant shows 8.0g unique for a 180gr at 1.25 oal 10% reduction would be 7.2 http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/Rec...42&bdid=126 Speer #13 shows 7.2 - 8.0 as well.... Yardbird, what manual are you using? I'm trying to reasonably account for the discrepancies I'm reading here versus what I have read published.

Working up a load using Unique for my G20. Here's what I have come up with extrapolating data from Speer #13 Manual 7.5g Unique 175g JHP 1.250oal . Searching the forums now leads me to think this is maybe hotter than it needs to be. But seems in the low end of the suggested range for the data I have on hand. Why the discrepancies in what I'm seeing here. I also have some WW 180gr JHP and Ranier 155FP Can anyone give me some starting points or at least confirm my charge (7.5) Thanks

Thanks for everyones help. I ended up pulling a Calico out of the safe and made a trade on a 550 with the roller handle, 9mm and 10mm conversion kits, dillon sig dies, couple spare toolheads, and enough components to keep me busy for a while. I realize I missed a few things to make changes easier so will be ordering those up tonight. Got it set up and cranked out 100 just to get the feel of it. So far so good. I should have done this years ago. Anyway thanks again for everyones help.

Thanks for the honest input. One thing I have realized is that I am not going to get hurt buying a dillon. I have been watching auctions close on ebay for the last month and I can buy a new one shipped cheaper from Brian in most of the cases. I'm really not a cheapskate and can "afford" to do whatever is best. I just don't like spending money for the sake of spending. As my intention of deciding on the 550 was that I would like to load .223 for my AR eventually, could you elaborate on the problems you had. I too have always just bought bulk ammo for it. But the recent shortages and cost increases have made me reconsider. I loaded 200 yesterday on my single stage .... that will last me about an hour... I have spoken with a couple of locals. Some like their SDB and have suggested dedicated presses for pistol calibers, others suggest stepping up to a 550 right away. At this point I'm confused... I known one thing for sure, I'm tired of pinching my fingers loading 9mm and .380 on my rockchukker. Thanks for everyone's help. Sorry for the newbie questions.

So for now all I can really afford is the press, without digging in too deep of a hole. I would really like the "as it should be" but I feel that for now I can get by mounting the press to my workbench and can upgrade to the strong mount and handle at a later date...(next billing cycle so I can bury it so the wife doesn't see it). for the short term If I mount the press to my bench how do you guys catch the completed cartridge as it is ejected. What's the easiest cheapest way to accomplish this. I have never seen a 550 mounted so I'm sorry if this seems like a stupid question but is there a mount that I can bolt on to the side of my bench that will hold the bin? I have all other aspects covered such as dies, conversion kits,... just need to know the easiest way to mount and catch the cartridge.

Getting ready to cross reference some cal conversions. How many locator buttons needed for a 550. Can someone confirm that it is three? edit... answered my own question. Thankss

Why are the Dillon 357 Sig dies so expensive. I have a set of RCBS will I be able to use those on a 550? What else will I need to use them. That was a shock

I have been reading and reading and reading... isn't the internet wonderful. My wife "suggested" that it would not be such a great idea to buy something so close to christmas. And come to think of it I haven't been able to find the dillon catolog for a while.

Thanks. I've been watching them on ebay for the last few days.. They seem to close pretty consistently in the 220-250 range. I'm gonna pull the trigger on one as I have seen 17 of them close. If I don't like it I'll list it and resell.... worse case I lose 20$ for the experience. I shoot about 200 rds every couple weeks. My brother in law the same and Dad just got a new XDm... I can probably recoup my investment before the end of the year.... lol I also shoot a G20 that has gotten old loading 10mm on the single stage. I like loading but don't have the time with a 4yr old around. I'm teaching her how to trickle powder and to deprime .223 just to keep her busy. Thanks again and sorry for the obviously redundant post now that I found the search button....

What's a fair price for a used SD. Interested in getting a dedicated 9mm setup. I can see that I'd probably be better off with a 550 in the long run but I have a Rock Chucker already. If I end up buying a new press it wil be a 550 for sure as the difference isn't that big of deal and I already have all my dies thanks