Boats
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Posts posted by Boats
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Not all guns are the same, some never shoot lead well, particulary if the barrel is rough. Larger and older cartridges do better, no suprises here 38 Special was designed for lead. 9 MM for FMJ's but generaly leading is caused in priority order by
Too hard
Too small
Too fast
Too soft
The bullet has to fit the gun and load, if not it's going to lead
Boats
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I migrated from Unique to W231 to Clays over 40 years of reloading 45 ACP Target Loads. W231 is fine however Clays is a lot cleaner. Not particulary important in 1911's but critical in Moonclipped revolvers you want to speed load.
To keep things simple have moved most of my handgun target loads to Clays
Boats
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Cheap as it is the Lee Hand tool works very well. Particularly if using mixed brass. Lube it with some grease works a whole lot better. I think by "feel" is a pretty good way considering primer pockets vary with dirt and crud inside. Hard bottom out so there is no energy absorbed before it pops is what you are looking for.
Boats
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I never like lok tited screws and thought it was better to go over your gun for loose as part of the claning. Then My 625's crane fell out duing a classifier. Now I use Blue loktite, just a litte bit. Rear sights forward screw, one that holds it on the frame was always backing out too so LT on it now.
Boats
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Depends,
I like 6 and 2 more regular speedloaders to charge the gun at Load and Make ready. (I use Jetloaders and HKS) That lets me shoot a IDPA stage with a full belt and the stage after already loaded so I don't have to push myself between stages. Some matches like Blackwater want you to have two stage's worth of loads so you don't have to go back to your shooting bag between.
So 6 plus 2 would be my mimimum
Boats
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I think it's more art than science and have given revolvers that are important to a real S&W gunsmith. On your own, I recommend getting a beater gun and playing with it, go wrong and not much loss, I did and learned enough to know how it works and appreciate the work that a real smith does.
Boats
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3.6 is my std 1911 load 5 inch and Commander both however I don't shoot those guns in competition and never cronoed to see if they are PF loads. 625's which I do shoot in Competiton needed 3.9 to be safe over the PF. 3.7 is just at PF in the revolers but not close enough to be sure if checked at a match.
Easy way to make sure the scale stays true is mark a spot for it to sit and always return it to exactly the same spot.
Boats
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I started loading 45 ACP with lead when I stopped getting free hardball from the Goverment. It's trouble free, look back you will find 45 caliber lead bullets used in handguns for what, 125 years ? Guess you could say they are well proven. You do have to clean the gun and they do smoke.
Boats
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Glad it worked out,
Every gun is different but I suspect in a 5 inch closed breech gun 3.6 clays and 230 LRN makes 165,000 PF too. Only the crono will tell for sure.
By the way what kind of scale was it? I have a set of check weights but they have never caught my old Lyman scale out. I have a small shelf for the scale over my bench bolted solid with a small indentation for the adjustable foots ball end. So it always sits in exactly the same place. Move them around they don't always read the same.
Boats
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I would reload weak hand except, Playing at Revolvers like I do, load .45 acp moonclips Jetloaders in .38's and retro HKS speedloaders for several other revolvers J's through N Frame .45 LC. I am pretty sure it would be hard to weak hand load all those different types. I suspect if always shooting the same outfit could learn to hit it right and weak hand would be better.
Question though, at the top level, is there a consensus for strong or weak hand load. I understand Jerry stong hand loads, what about the other top shooters.
Boats
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I strong hand reload, as the gun comes back into my Strong hand it's important to place it into the proper grip, I push the cylinder closed with my weak hand thumb pressing on the crane and use the thumb push to set my grip. I don't actually pause but it's the closing click that focuses my mind for the moment on proper grip.
Fast is good, fumble free is better, but miss the shot after your reload and you are screwed.
Boats
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Tell me about the holster and speedloader pouch too.
Boats
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What kind of gun what kind of bullet ?
I use 3.9 Hodgen Clays in my two 625 revolvers and lead bullets with no problems. I do use matched cases all same headstamp and it's probably a max load. It's also near a mimimum "safe" IDPA power factor load.
Couple of things could put it over the top. Smaller interior volume cases like you can get with mixed brass, too much crimp although I roll about a max crimp in my loads. And the bullet. I am pretty sure Jacketed bullet with that charge would be too hot they have a lot more bore friction. If loading for a moonclipped revolver it's not hard to run same headstamp. Auto pistols it's a lot of trouble to run the same stamp. If loading for a 1911 it should not take 3.9 to reach power factor using lead bullets, 1 more inch in the barrel and no cylinder to throat gap. No need for anything over comfortable PF if shooting matches with lead bullets. Clays like other fast pistol powders will 'spike" that is increase pressure in a steady consistent manner then all of a sudden jump up with small changes in components or methods if working near it's maximum intended pressure.
Another possibility is inconsistent throws on the powder measure, probably the most common reloading problem. I would make a long run throwing weighing and writing it down to see what's really in those cases. I find I have to pause just a bit with Clays or I get light charges. Some measures will throw over if the handle is rapped too hard on the upstroke with Clays.
Bulge at the Base sounds like a Glock I don't know a thing about those.
Boats
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I have had to switch all sorts of primers due to the shortages. Pistol primer to .223 is not one I would risk. Pull them all if in doubt. Better than ruining a rifle or worse.
Boats
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I use Pelicans for flying, In the car trunk or back of my SUV they are too big and heavy, for cheap and hard MTM's 30 dollar hard case is the way to go. I don't use soft for anything except inside a hard case.
Boats
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You can buy 38 S&W dies or load the cartridge with 9mm dies primary difference is the crip. Most 9 dies will only roll a taper crimp. If using lead bullets with a crimping grove the 38 S&W dies will be better, Something jackated that you want to taper crimp anyway 9mm die is better.
Let the bullet make the choice.
Boats
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Take any matches results, Look at the times, then figure how many reloads in the COF. It's easy to see the effect of reload times.
Most times a poor shot after the reload cost more in results that backing off the reload just a bit and making sure of your hit first shot after it's charged. I think it's real important to go through your grip, index, raise to the sights and fire routine after a reload just like on the first shot out of the holster. Not to say you should reload slow, but difference in 3 down to 2 seconds for most shooters can be lost real quick on target. If you are a strong hand charger it's a fresh grip after. On the other hand a blown re-load is a killer time wise for sure.
Boats
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FWIWorth
Recent match we had a stage shoot 6 reload then 6 more with pentalty if string was over 10 seconds. No concelment Couple dozen revolver shooters only 2 shot the 12 shots under 10 Sec. Jet loader SSR 9 & Change Mooncliped RSR 7 & change both guns with good hits.
Mid level club shooter actual shots fired using a timer ?. I find a 3 sec moonclip load pushes me but can be done. 4 is 100 % reliable. Jetloaders perhaps add 1 sec. Cover garment add more time. Better not to miss the re-load, screw one up and it takes a long time to clear the mess. You don't want to miss shots either particlarly the one right after the re-load, an easy one to miss.
Boats
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Good tip am going to look for one. I have a weak spot for old Smiths with Grip adapters, some like the Tyler's work good others need a bit of tightening up. Have a Victory with a Meashon plastic adapter that could use the extra grip and support.
Boats
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I was right eye dominant for years since migrated to left eye dominant. Rifles I shoot right handed and for targets use a blinder on my left shooting glass lens or a flap hung on the scope bell. Most of my rife shooting is target with scopes or adjustable aperture sights focus can be brought to sharp with my right weak eye no problem. It would be a major change to switch to left hand rifle shooting.
Pistols I see the front sight much better left dominant eye. Use a blinder on my right shooting glass lens. Closing your eye is not good,, no depth perception, less light for the other eye as it stops down to compensate, and tiring in a long match. If I had to use my pistol unprepared and fast would close the right thats about the only reason to shoot one eyed.
You don't need much to force your vision eye to eye, piece of matt scotch tape works fine. I mostly use small oval of car window film, the cling type so I can remove it and clean the glasses or shift them for rifle shooting. You can see though this film fine however it blocks enough light your eyes naturally seek the left unblocked eye for sighting. Couple of my frends use a target paster and also say it works well.
Only real change to my pistol shooting is make sure when I draw the gun and index before coming up to the sight line do it a bit left of center so it's comming straight up to the proper eye.
Boats
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Our Club lot more competition SSP than with Handguns I "prefer" If you are going pass on nice hardware and shoot plastic pistols there are only 2 real choices. Glocks and M&P's.
The M&P's ergonomics are good, very good. I don't like all the Glock's are perfect hype and prefer American companies for about anything. In fact have never even handled a Glock, no doubt they are just as good. Probably not a bit of difference in performance Glock vs. S&W M&P.
M&P is new and aftermarket parts are not as readily available. Although mine is now box stock so that makes little difference. I did have fail to fire problems, common to any striker fired pistol; the Glock forums have pages on the same issue. Mine was related to reloads and after market springs I installed trying to tune to my reloads. Handloads are something Glock discourages, the major reason for there reliability reputation. S&W handled the problem well and has redesigned the striker. No cost to me. Now it runs my loads just fine. Might want to think about factory ammo vs reloads when chosing. Personaly I am not owning anything I can't reload for.
If it's up to standard the hardware is not important, how you shoot is.
Boats
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Little History on this match
Our club runs two full IDPA matches per month with strict adherence to IDPA rules. We used to run one additional "IDPA Lite" bit simpler, basic skills focused and intended for beginners. It morphed into a Revolver only match (and now allows Auto's classed all in one group, fulfilling the beginner basic function). It's run under IDPA procedure rules, not under IDPA equipment rules, 6 inch revolvers are OK and Power factor is not a requirement. Auto's are all 6 shot loaded and reloaded from slide lock.
COF is selected for quick set up, basic skills, and 6 shot strings, all limited vickers. It's a good way to give casual shooter club members a match, introduce new shooters to IDPA rules match shooting, and give Revolvers a "home" It's been very successful. I don't know what the general feeling is about running matches that are "outlaw" but this one works for us.
Boats
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First Stage in this match was draw shoot 6 body shots one target re-load then 6 body shots on a 2nd target. 5 sec penalty if all shots were not complete in 10 seconds. It was our clubs once a month Revolver Match. For that one we have simpler array's and heavy on basic skills. Sort of Bill Drill double. You have to nail he re-load to make it.
Boats
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I think the way for a confident shooter to run the pizza box stage would be 1st tgt Head, 2nd tgt Head, come down to Body on the 2nd target for 2 then back to the first body for 2 more. 4 sight pictures and all body shots doubles. Way I understand the tactical sequence rule is targets equal distance have to be neutralized before engaging the next one. Head hit neutralized . Question is did you think you could draw and hit the first head.
Way I shot it was 1st target body one shot 2nd body two shots slow my pace and sharpen my focus up to the 2nd targets head for 1 over to the 1st targets head for one more then down at speed with the last required body shot to finish the 1st target, 5 sight pictures.
Did Forrest mention we then had to back up reload behind cover 3 to the body on a 3rd target move lateral to 2nd cover position then 3 to the body 4th target. It was a 12 shot one reload stage.
If I was sure of draw and hit the first head it would have been the thing to do. I get pressed buzzer goes of and often my first shot is loose.
what the cause of leading
in General Reloading
Posted
I am not sure there is a firm rule on sizing. In accurate single shot match rifles smokless powder generaly size a bit over bore size black powder about bore size. Most cast bullet match shooters experement with the bullets size and make the choice on results. I have a 38/55 with 3 bullet molds, one factory shot with Smokless powder short range, two cut for the gun intended for mid range. The mid range bullets one is for smokeless one for black and they are all a bit different diamater as cast. These bullets are shot from the mold with no sizing. The bullets will vary with different alloys too.
Revolvers I always shoot them at "standard" sizes and don't tinker with diamater. Almost always use local made factory cast bullets. My observation is with .45's or 38's if you use recomended target loads and bullets that have been proved to be correct size-shape not going too fast any smooth barrel will deliver good results. Most problems are from trying to go fast with a hard bullet or a rough bore.
Boats