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MickB

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Posts posted by MickB

  1. Grease the threads of the upper, then tighten up snug and loosen 3 times. By doing this you are seating the threads of the barrel nut to the upper.

    At this point, when you snug up again, you should have the tooth of your barrel nut at ~12 o'clock (or half way to clearing the gas tube hole) and ~30-40lbs.

    Tightening from this point will get you to 70-85lbs.

    While on this subject, I have a related question. How tight should the barrel extension fit in the upper receiver?

    Is a tight fit better for accuracy?

    How tight is good enough (should the barrel not drop out of the receiver when pointing down with no barrel nut in place)?
    Should I use Loctite or shim stock for a loose barrel?

    Does this even matter when the barrel nut is torqued to 70-80 lbs?

    Mick

  2. Perfect. I happen to have one of Nordic's standard upper receivers sitting around. Hmmm....

    Mick

    No they only sold Gen ones as Nordic. Gen 2 was sold to other manufacturers. Gen 3 will be sold under the Nordic banner once again. Your group buy was gen one-A2.

    Don't shoot water, it is dangerous and can cause ricochets especially with .22 LR. Don't kill your neighbors cat!

    Yes Mick the gen 3 can be switched into a standard upper

  3. LOL! Kurt, cooler in AZ means temps in the 70's. Setting up adjustable gas in AZ means setting it up when the weather is cooler, or going to an air conditioned indoor range.

    I learnt that lesson when I had my JP15 set up when the temp was in the 90's. Very next morning with temps in the high 60's-low 70's, the rifle became a single shot till I turned up the gas...

    What is this thing you call snow?

    Mick

  4. That is because of the ambient temperature change now that it is getting cooler in AZ.

    You have two choices: Adjust it for lower temp conditions and leave it there, or have a regular AZ weather setting, then another setting for colder weather. Easy to do with a click adjustable gas block like the SLR SA7, more of a PITA with a regular metering screw type block, especially if you loctite the screw.

    Don't sell the rifle, adjust the gas...

    Mick

    I just had my first adjustable gas meltdown at my 3 gun match last weekend. I'm not sure if the rifle was too dirty or the ammo slightly weak but my JP turned into a single shot rifle and killed my match. I am now on board with the "F" the adjustable gas and I'm going to put it up for sale and get a stag arms 3G.

  5. I have stopped using a torque wrench. Army manual says 30-85 lb/ft torque, USMC manual says after bbl nut snug/loosen 3x, turn till the gas tube hole aligns.

    What I have found is that after the snug/loosen 3x of the bbl nut, the tooth (or hole) of the nut is about one third to half way there, and tightening from that position will get you into the 60-80 lb/ft range.

    Mick

    Building an upper is not too hard

    You need a vice

    A torque wrench is essentially a requirement too

    Clamshells work well and if it isn't broken and you don't have some weird billet upper then I see no reason to abandon it for a different, more expensive method

    Aligning the gas tube right can be a little tricky but not too bad

    I think the most annoying part is putting the gas tube roll pin in without the right tools. It is doable with a hammer and pliers like the roll pins in a lower are but way more difficult to do.

  6. Definitely call SLR.

    First, clear the rifle, then clear it again. Then take the upper off the lower and place the top rail on a flat surface. The hand guard should run even with the top rail of the upper receiver. if it doesn't, you will see it very easily.

    If not aligned, remove the hand guard, reinstall, and using your flat surface, push down so upper and hand guard aligned - THEN tighten the bolts on the hand guard.

    Mick

  7. Aero precision makes a non forward assist upper, and I have also found their lowers and uppers to have a fairly tight fit (within the half dozen or so that I have played with).

    Nordic uppers and lowers also seem to have a good, tight fit.

    Mick

  8. Mark,

    please let us know the results...

    Mick

    Which barrel will be more durable? Melonite or Cerakote? Any long term issue(s)?

    Cerakote is just an exterior coating and has no impact on the bore. Melonite is a surface treatment that should result in a longer lifespan. I have one that is a few months old with almost 9K rounds on it and I will be doing the final accuracy test on it today before I send it back to SST.

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