larry weeks
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Posts posted by larry weeks
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Vector is a high resolution format used frequently in Adobe Illustrator. Vector images can be enlarged or reduced without losing detail. A file with a dot extension, .EPS will be vector. Most of us can't open those files, we don't have the software. Someone with Illustrator can work with your existing files to convert them to a vector. BUT (you knew there was one) if you have a 72 dpi JPEG that's 4" long, there might not be enough information there to make a good vector image. A 40" wide, JPEG, better. We have both vector and jpeg images of our logo, I'd bet most other companies do too. Worth asking.
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I've used them in a 930 and my Benny Hill M2, They run fine.
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MarkCO said it well and that really needs no additions. That said, I'm going to add. I shoot an EOTech in tac iron and need a whole lot more practice working around/through barricades than I do seeing the target. The 1 minute dot doesn't cover too much, even on long range targets. I no longer shoot from a bench when sighting in, I lie down on the ground and use my mags as a mono-pod, not many benches in 3-Gun. For setting the 50 yd zero, after I zero from a bench, I find something to use as a wall and double check from that. Being able to shoot from wobbly barricades and angled-gun, goofy positions will help more than 6x. Jerry Miculek told me he shoots 50-60,000 rounds a year. It takes that kind of committment to be a great shooter. If you spend the scope money on 3000 rounds of rifle ammo and practice at no closer than 250 yds, I'd bet you'll beat the majority of non-pros.
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I had this problem and it was caused by my oversized GG&G bolt release button bumping the outside of the frame and not letting the back of the bolt release lever get out of the way of the lifter as it rose. I had the overall size reduced and the back 'thinned' so it sat up farther off the gun. Might check that on yours. When it stops, turn it over and look to see if the lifter is dragging on something. I spent most of a match bumping my charging handle until someone told me to have Rob Romero look at it. It jammed for him, instead of bumping the handle, he actually bothered to look and spotted the problem right away. I unscrewed the o/s button and the gun ran fine. I've also heard about a different/stiffer lifter spring (?) being needed.
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It's a race part, they don't last long. They're meant to go fast and be replaced often. People not realizing that is probably why JP quit making them. Just like the NASCAR boys rebuilding their engines after every race. Those pistons look fine, but they throw them away, along with a lot of other expensive parts.
The idea of a thin sleeve might just be the ticket, if you want to save it.
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+1 on 3-gun Hero. Teaches stage breakdown and planning movement. Practical Rifle by Jerry Miculek covers shooting, movement and positions. Those two will give you a great start.
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Sounds like you have it worked out. Only other thing I could suggest would be to make sure your chamber is clean and smooth and not causing the cases to stick. I had a chamber that was slightly short and caused cases to stick which had the same result as short stroking. Found that with a headspace guage. A couple of turns with a reamer and everything was fine.
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Fastshooter 03. Here's the path, sorry it's so long, to my article on polishing the shell latch. If it won't release rounds with a full tube, this fixed it. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=15831/GunTechdetail/Fixing-A-Mossberg-930-Feed-From-The-Tube-Problem?sp_rid=MjM5MzI1MTM5MDYS1&sp_mid=4574276&spMailingID=4574276&spUserID=MjM5MzI1MTM5MDYS1&spJobID=133893907&spReportId=MTMzODkzOTA3S0
Talking with someone about welding lifters causing problems because of extra weight - he completely dispelled that when he said, "it works when lifting a 1 oz shell and a 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 oz shell, the little bit you ad welding it up is far less than 1/4 oz. You have something else wrong." Made sense to me.
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Poly Choke now makes a version with choke tube threads, but the one in Brownells catalog is vented, so it would put you in open. I always thought that would be the way to go. Other problem would be if your mag tube extends beyond the barrel. Diameter of the Poly Choke might cause it to rub on the tube. Of course you want to use what you have on hand, just consider the mag tube clearance problem and go for it. Be our tester. You might start a trend.
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Jomar, what a coincidence, just told someone about your drug-sniffing horse
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And I wasted a bunch of time cutting up re-rod, cutting plates and welding them together. Arrrgggghhhh! Thanks for the tip. I'll pay for a whole lot of those before I weld another one!
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The ones Jesse showed are the ones I use. Same box for 3 years now. I don't practice every night but they've been through the gun many times. Still work fine.
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I had to polish the shell stop, and lightly break the corners to keep it from hanging up on the shells and preventing them from popping out onto the carrier. Only a problem with a full tube for me.
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And to keep from grabbing the hot gas block! Did it myself, darn near dropped the gun.
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Decot. They are shooters. Made a set for me with the dominant eye lens set up to focus on the pistol front sight, off eye handles distance. Works great. Front sight is in focus, so is the target. Not cheap. Very thin, wire bows that work well under muffs.
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I'm using the ELS for everything but I install them so the fork's points are "up". Figured that would make it darn near impossible to yank the holster off the mount. Safariland does have a belt with the QLS hole spacing but I think it is 2-1/4" wide, no idea if it also accepts ELS without drilling. What I found with adapting things to the ELS system is: I need to be willing to fiddle around, not be afraid to drill holes, use oddball screws, search the specialty screw bins at the hardward store and not be afraid to spend a little money if I mess something up. I've used the setup for a year now and love it. I got rid of the ELS sliding keeper and use my CR Speed wrap-around keeper, I've had people help me get the posts into the holes many times. Sometimes they pop right in, sometimes I have to wrestle with them.
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My Benny M2 is flawless, unless I change something and mess it up. When I change it back, it magically runs fine. Really love the M2. Light, manueverable, runs great dirty. For upland game I'm a sxs double guy but I'm really tempted to take the M2 next time I go. I use it for trap and have shot a 24 with it. I've put 3 magazine springs in and that's it for maintenance, other than an occasional cleaning. I can't speak to the Salient, no experience.
As someone else said, there are several people building M2s who aren't a famous and might be just as good.
My STI was built by one of the guys here at work who is a superb pistolsmith that isn't famous. It runs perfectly too. He stays busier than he wants to be just by word of mouth.
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I have a Syrac that fits just fine under my Clark Carbon forend.
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mgunner, it's not so much a "dangerous" limitation, it's a money grab. EVERY company whose product is exported now has to have a license to export. In the past, a distributor could have an export license and export everything in their inventory. Now, the manufacturer has to also have a license. Many don't want to pay the fee and have the govt. getting into their business with all the paperwork, especially if the overseas sales won't justify the expense - from what I understand it can cost them thousands of dollars. Brownells now has four people just to cover "compliance" with all the various govt regs - shipping, safety, labeling etc. Plus two people making sure we stay legal on the FFL items.
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Bluepythons, that's exactly what they did, one on the trigger, one on the spray can of Break Free (gun is mounted in a fixture). It was below zero that day so i didn't hang around long - don't know if that was the only time they did that, or if they kept it up all day. It was early in our learning curve and I think they were trying different things. I don't know how long they did that before figuring it out. I only went out a few times. Every stoppage requires a full investigation by a military representative to make sure it isn't a mag problem - if it is, you have to destroy the entire lot. We never had to destroy a lot of mags, whew! Once they found out the extra lube was causing stoppages, they got away from it and used less and less as time went on. The gentleman who was in charge at the time is no longer here so I can't ask him why he thought that was a good idea. Gas systems don't generally like oil. Those guns take a beating and, unless a broken lug gets caught in something, will keep running when they should quit.
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An AR that runs 20 to 40 rounds over a couple of minutes, outside in the dirt, may work fine with a different regimen, I'm going to relate what we found when testing M4s and M16s for our (Brownells) magazine contract. Minimum oil was better - at least for full auto fire, from a covered building. When we first started the tests, I saw them hose Break Free into the port while the gun was running. What they found was, excess oil gets into the magazine and onto the rounds. They carry it into the chamber, it turns to carbon, and causes both chambering and extraction problems. We got the guns really hot - 6 to 7 magazines as fast as possible (the gas tube glows in the 3rd mag). We put one drop on each carrier rail and one on the bolt ring - not the gas rings - the shiney ring closer to the lugs. That was it! After each 6-7 magazine stint in the fixture, the gun was removed and stood in the rack to cool. Once cooled, one drop was put on the visible carrier rail and one drop went into the bolt/carrier "junction". Last I knew they were using Militec. I do the same thing but generally use Mobil 1 and have not had an AR problem since, but then I didn't have any before with heavier lube, but never dripping.
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looks like 084-000-324 and -325, just 6" longer. Price is in initial post.
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Welding any aluminum that isn't perfectly clean is a challenge. Welding thin aluminum cans is awfully tough - this shows miniumum heat that didn't burn the "paint" very far away from the weld. so I'd say yes, that's a good weld. I've heard of guys who can do this, they're the good ones who've done it for years. Watched a video of an old time race car builder welding aluminum with an oxy/acetylene torch and dipping the rod in flux - that looked awfully difficult.
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I used my CR speed pouches but had to do some drilling and adapting because I wanted two screws to secure the pouch to the fork (normal CR Speed is just one screw) With some 8-32 screws and nuts, a drill and a dremel you can put an ELS plate on most gear. If the item has/had a Tec Loc it will accept the ELS fork easily.
CHARGING HANDLE LATCH ?
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
I've been using our (Brownells) folding extended Paratrooper Charging Handle. You can fold the extension down to keep from digging in, fold it out and it is longer than any other I've seen. Makes a great kick stand. 7075 T6 and really stout. Our design engineer put the test gun in a vise, put on a big glove and banged it back as hard as he could, 1000 times and it didn't fail. It is a tight fit in the notch when assembling, only drawback I've found. Of course I'm a really low level shooter so it's not like Taren or Daniel or Jerry endorsing something. Oh yeah, I paid for mine, it wasn't a freebee