20nickels
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Posts posted by 20nickels
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I feel for ya. As I sit here typing I'm in pain with a back injury. Dr. is doing a great job putting me back in place though. Good luck.
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Hornadays work like that also.
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Using the #1 for 45ACP will make you either start drinking... or start drinking more..... I have to manually ensure that the casings hit the sizing die with the #1....
I have used the Dillon size die that is specified for auto indexing presses with a #45 shell plate. Even then to get them perfectly sized all the way down you will need to size again or use a Lee FCD. The Dillon does fix the brass smashing problen though
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20nickels, do you happen to have any estimate as to how long it takes Hornady to modify the shellplates and send them back? I sent in my shellplates and they were delivered to Hornady on March 17, 2009. I had the RA number on the mailing label and on a letter inside.
I didn't ask before I sent the shellplates, because I inquired by email, and the response time on emails was 13 days. I just sent the shellplates off, rather than wait another 13 days, and I don't know what to expect in the way of a wait.
I sent my #1 shellplate for modification, along with the others. Do they exchange that for a #45 automatically, or will I have to take some other action to get a #45?
Jim M.
Sorry for the lATE REPLY. I agree with everything SLM said.
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Jeff, steer clear of the lockout die. I have 2 of them and they don't work as advertised. The best solutiomn I have seen is adapting a Dillon checker to the LNL. H'day shoud just make one, there is enough presses out there.
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You will like the #45 plate. Everything just runs smoother.
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I was looking for a 550 when I ran across a LNL at a screamin' low price. Since then I've used a friends 550 and although a good press it is slower. What does a 650 do that a LNL doesn't? Tickle your undercarriage while you use it?
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My plates are there right now. I'll be getting the subplate when I pick up the plates. Full length dies will be a nice addition to the last two stages of this press.
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+1 on the Redding Profile Crimp. A taper crimp followed up with a sharp roll crimp. Could use a couple more. The RCBS roll crimp is popular.
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And I maintain that many well-intentioned but over-zealous folks take their revolvers apart and dick around inside them far more frequently than necessary.
I'm serious when I say there's no reason to disassemble your wheelgun for a deep cleaning more than about once a year. If that.
My very first competition revolver, which was already well-used when I purchased it 22 years ago, is still in active service--it's my son's main competition revolver. I can't remember the last time I had the sideplate off.
So what points inside do get oiled and what stays dry?
Dry is the operative word. I keep everything as clean as possible, when I do get in there, Then I give it a quick shot of Hornaday balack label One Shot before I put the sideplate back on.
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There's a German company that makes them. Let me do some searching.
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When I made them I was working on the principle of small crimp small groups. I will run them back through the press and add a slight roll crimp via a Redding Profile Crimp die.
The obvious answer was more crimp, but I wanted to see if there was another way to skin this cat. -
Loaded some H&G #68 200gr LSWC copies under 3.8gr of Bullseye and I am getting bullet pull up to an 1/8" before I get through a full cylinder. Groups are okay. Should I suck it up and live with it or clamp down the crimp? Roll crimp?
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You can find most of Jerry's basics in online videos
although the DVD's are worth it too. Autos are weird to me, I was born 60 years too late. -
Thanks MIke, I will do that when I get back home.
Would I be able to order those parts from Brownells or do I need to go through S&W for them?
You should be able to get them from either place. I would be interested in learning how to remove the peening. Do you simply just hammer them flat again? I'm sure there is a thread on this somewhere.
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New brass...I need to shoot it once in my gun before I trust it. Load it up and take it to a practice session.
+1 to that. A while back I decided to Cadillac my loads for a big out of state match. No used brass for this great match. It deserved only my best. I bought 1000 brand new brass and loaded it up to my best QC standards.
Come match day my blaster earned its nickname "Jam-A-Matic". I also learned the value of a case gauge (all rounds had been checked using the barrel out of the gun).
Bill
Dumb question, wouldn't the barrel be better than the case gauge for that particular guns reloads? Tks, Nickels.
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If you want to hunt deer with your 625, just load up some heavy "pin loads" and choose your shots carefully.
A .460 Rowland conversion? Nah, it won't do anything to make the gun stronger, it's just a chamber ream. Whatever your gun can handle with Rowland brass it can handle in ACP brass.
You should be able to safely drive a 255-gr. hard cast SWC or a jacketed 250-gr. XTP at about 1000 fps out of a modern .45 revolver. Start with 6.0 grains of Unique and work up carefully, checking for pressure signs, to around 7.0 or so.
I'd forget about comping or porting the gun--even with those more potent loads, it's still not generating enough gas to really drive a comp, and porting is pretty much horseshit, as others above have noted.
I also believe there is nothing to gain with .460 over regular .45 ACP brass. If memory serves me, the bullet is seated to the same OAL as ACP. The longer brass is just to keep the .460 out of your pappys old 1911 .45, sort of like the .357 is longer than the .38. You could seat the bullet out further for more case capacity, but that is uncharted waters and potentially exceeding the 625's pressure limits IMO. Starline has claimed to do some different heat treating and such to the brass to make it stronger, but I'm not buying it. Especially in a fully supported 625 chamber.
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Couple of weeks ago I found a link to fitting a new model extractor on a S&W. Now I can't find it.
Anyone know of the link? or other instructions on fitting and timing a extractor?
Is this it?
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...mp;hl=extractor
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I suppose it also depends on what you are looking to do. Some specialize, and do that thing very well.
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I voted 625 for ultimate competitive edge and wider bullet selection, but if your already set up for .40 then I wuold get the 610 and not look back. 10mm would be fun for long range shooting.
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I think I would miss the beavernub.
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Just talked to H'Day. They will be offering a DIY subplate conversion kit in March 09 for $30. This of course will not include the shell plates.
Any idea who you spoke with at Hornady that told you this. Another member on a forum is asking and I would just like to verify that this is not hearsay (Not that I dont trust you).
No idea. The 1st person who answered in tech support. It wasn't Bob. I believe the subplate comes off with the two allen screws on the sides of the piston. Looks simple anyways.
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Just talked to H'Day. They will be offering a DIY subplate conversion kit in March 09 for $30. This of course will not include the shell plates.
The obvious answer was more crimp, but I wanted to see if there was another way to skin this cat.
Carmonized revolvers
in Revolver Forum
Posted
That kid in the photo has been touched, re-touched, and innappropiately re-touched.... repeatedly.