20nickels
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Posts posted by 20nickels
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Lockout die. I use it, love it, want another. Works like any other die in the LNL. Detects zero charges and double charges and nothing in between, but that's the job of you and your other gear.
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Dave,
"I keep hearing talk about machining a .45 Colt cylinder to shoot .45 ACP in moonclips, but has anybody actually done this and experienced any success? I tried this some years ago with a 25-7 and it was a disaster. A sloppy .45 Colt chamber is a very unsanitary environment for a .45 ACP cartridge!"
Hi, Dave. I believe that it would be strongly dependant on how that chargeholes mic out. If they are undersized from the factory that may even be beneficial to the conversion. If I had the coin I would try it my self, but that is currently not an option
. I'm also interested in what it likes to eat, lead vs. jacketed/plated. Time will tell. -
I too bobbled between the 610, and 625 when I made my purchase. My, opinion is unless you already shoot .40's and want to keep that constant the 625 is the way to go. There are a lot of little things that come together on a 625 (like the large chargeholes when doing a reload) and add up to a great firearm.
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I've considered entering with a pump shotty, an SKS, and my 625. I don't think there are any rules excluding them although 3 gun is dominated with autos. I'm curious as well, keep us posted.
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Brian,
I'd take a look at the new one and machine it for 45 Auto. They have potentially moddified a few things that Mike mentioned. I'm curious how the chargeholes mic out.
Wouldn't surprise me if they offered one in .45 Auto next year since they discontinued the 625.
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Hmmm, a bit more complicated than I expected. It still might be nice to have dual caliber capability in my Model 10. Keeping the pressures don of course.
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Okay, I'm a .38 Super noob. So is it basically an auto cartridge with a true .357 bullet so it will retain it's accuracy in a K frame? BTW where are you getting the moonclips, and will they work with 9X19 by chance?
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Never to much of a good thing
Happy B-day! -
Redding profile crimp ordered. Tks for the replys.
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Tried it tonight. First chucking up the spent case to a drill and Flitzed it. That wobbled too much for my comfort so I used a .410 gauge bore mop and drill. Results were some smoothing in spots in a couple of chambers but by and large I don't think I did much good. I can still see the machining lines on close examination of the chambers. I suppose I will have the guy that's fitting the cylinder to the frame just do it after he test fires it. Egged out cyl. walls would not be cool.
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Anybody roll crimp for their Smith 25 or 625? If so what dies do you use? The cheapest lead locally are .45 Colt boolits for the CAS shooters and taper crimping on them doesn't work so hot. So I've been eyeballing a .45 Schofield roll crimp die and anyway I like how my .38's drop into dirty chambers without any fuss. Why not ACP?
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I use the 1/3 moonclips from Ranch Products with SWCs. Drop right in two at a time and 1 dozen easily carried in Cabela's pellet/.22lr pouch
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What model? pics?
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Just a thought, why not clip for 50GI or .50 AE?
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Hi, Earplug. I sent mine to the factory along with Grant Cunningham's 625 article that clearly specified the flaking issues, requested a non-chromed hammer and they replaced it. Even though it was all paid It makes me very nervous to ship guns. Trigger pull was rough as a cob until I made time to stone it. Now it works great.
BTW I ordered a ti cyl. thanks for the link.
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I have used Tom E's method of replacing the strain screw with a longer one with good results on my S&W 617 (Rimfire Central Tom? small world). Less failure to fires. Will try it on my center fires soon. Has to work on the same principals whatever it does.
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I thought forged stops would mate better with the forged 625JM trigger. It does feel a bit gritty on the initial trigger pull when the surfaces contact, but as mentioned it is probably isn't worth it. It might not make a difference anyway. I'll just get some extra MIM stops and springs from Brownell's.
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Forged and hardchromed trigger. Other stuff is MIM. One bad thing about the JM is the chrome does not take to the MIM hammer. It literally flakes off the wear parts. Mine and several others have sent it back for a regular MIM part.
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So I'm taking the the Ti road with my 625-8 cylinder. I have been told to chuck up a spent casing to a drill press and use it as a mandrel with some Flitz for a few minutes to fix sticky extraction....... but that was for steel cyl. Will this metod still work for Titanium or is more advanced tooling involved? What methods have you used and are there any other things I should consider with the 325 Ti cyl? Tks ahead, Nickels.
Oh, should I use MIM or old forged cyl. stops?
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I added one as I now have the dreaded 625 timing/peenig issues. It is a temporary fix, but does add a slight hitch to the trigger pull.
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8" pencil barrel would be sweeeet.
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Out, but make sure your rebound spring is strong enough to activate your primary (and now only) top-of-rebound slide safety.
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Not an expert on this (few people are), but I believe it has to do with if your gun likes .454 boolits or .451 (the new .45 standard). It has to do with the chamber dimensions as well as the barrel. Hope this helps.
Related link;
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=281653
1st post
. I'm also interested in what it likes to eat, lead vs. jacketed/plated. Time will tell.
Happy B-day!
Cylinder release return spring
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Hi, Earplug. Much of the DVD might be review for you although I still highly recommend it as it is very in depth with close ups to boot.
I've cut 2 coils off all my Smith's and filed the back of the latches with good results.