prickett

I have a Browning Challenger 2 that I dropped on the cement floor. The Browning has a 4" long rear sight piece that attaches to the top of the barrel. The drop broke the screw used to attach the sight to the barrel. I attempted to remove the broken screw using a screw remover, but managed to destroy the threads in the screw hole in the process. Now, I'm looking for options to fix it. I can think of three. What are the advantages/disadvantages of each? Is the a better alternative? 1) Tap the hole and use a larger screw 2) Fill the hole with JB Weld or something and redrill and tap 3) Fill the hole with just enough epoxy to hold in a screw

Bet the post man LOVES you

Sure did help. I suspected an apples to apples comparison would rate a 550 and the 2000 about even. The 650, with its additional features (and price tag) don't make it a valid comparison. Thanks!

The powder drops on the up stroke in stage two, so the primer has already been seated. Stroke one - up : Resize Index Stroke one - down : seat primer Stoke two - up : Bell, drop powder Index Stroke two - down : nothing I'm somewhat ambivalent about the Pro 2000 auto-index announcment. It was the happiest day of my life when the auto-index part broke (due to me getting frustrated and jamming the handle down when it got stuck) on my auto 4x4 press. I removed all the auto-index pieces and manually indexed, and reliability soared.

SA, have you ever loaded using a Dillon? I too load on a RCBS 2000. I keep hearing how wonderful a Dillon is and can't imagine it's any better than the RCBS. Just curious to see if someone has used both and what their impression is.

Slavex, the Pro 2000 CAN be used as a 6 station press. I'm currently using it with both a powder check die and a factory crimp die. The secret is to buy a Lee powder through the belling die and the Lee Pro Disc powder dropper. Station 1 is the sizer/deprimer Station 2 is the beller + powder drop Station 3 is a check die (where the powder drop normally would go) Station 4 is the seater Station 5 is a factory crimp die BTW, the Lee Pro Disc is VERY accurate and repeatable at dropping powder. Don't let its cheap looks fool you.

Master Blaster WAS going to be my source, but they've gone out of business. Precision's bullets are currently double what I can get lead bullets for, which is why I'm trying to "go it alone". Anyone have an inexpensive source for moly bullets?

Good info. Thanks!

Thanks for the info! Just the kind I was looking for. How many BBs do you use? Have you tried not cleaning the bullets first? If so, what was the problem? Where did you come across an additional Thumler bowl? TIA

Do you have the name of a dealer that will sell me 500 moly coated 125gr LRN 9mm's for $22? I've not been able to find any.

I'm considering moly coating my lead (less smoke, less barrel leading) and am wondering whether its worth the effort. Does anyone have learnings from doing so they could share? What is your technique? I understand you tumble the lead with moly and some sort of other media (ceramic or shot?). Is the "other media" required? Does the make of moly matter (i.e. is Midway's moly better, worse, or indifferent from others)? How big of a mess does it make? Other findings? TIA

I'm relatively new to the sport so excuse the newbie question, but would moly coated lead reduce the smoke problem?

I HIGHLY recommend the RCBS Pro 2000. Their support as every bit as good as Dillon's and I prefer their primer strips to primer tubes. I tweaked mine by NOT using the provided powder drop, raplacing it with Lee's powder thru the sizing die + Auto Disc powder drop. By doing so, I can add a powder check die AND a factory crimp die - for a total of 6 functions!