RPatton
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Posts posted by RPatton
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Is the barrel the same age as the slide and what do the lugs on the barrel look like? If the lugs are starting to round off there is a problem and it will eventually take some expensive parts to fix it.....ask me how I know.
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In the winter when I'm bored and after I am tired of reloading I might clean some guns. Not much dust in the winter so powder residue is all that is left to clean so I don't. I haven't cleaned the Benelli or the STI in the winter for a long time. Before the first major 3gun in the spring everything will get cleaned/inspected. After the spring clean/inspect I rarely take the STI or the shotgun apart unless I am going to a major match. The AR gets more cleaning than anything just because it's an AR. Blast it with break cleaner after maybe 2 or 3 local 3gun matches, apply lube, brush chamber, and and I'm done.
In the summer it is a different story. I'll wipe down all the steel at the end of the day or it may be starting to rust from the sweat by the next morning. The STI is blue, or it once was, but now that finish is missing in a lot of places so I wipe it down with a rag and Gibbs Oil. That is probably overkill since I discovered Gibbs Oil, but it's an old habit. Gibbs Oil is THE ticket for preventing rust.
All guns get cleaned/inspected before each major 3gun match during the shooting season.
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I would like to see some empirically derived data on this subject.
Will someone with a spare AR load up some ammo, push the bullets back in the brass, load the AR, tie it to a tree and let her go with a long string from behind cover. Unfortunately I don't have a spare AR.
But I can tell you what will happen to a Lee Enfield 303 loaded with a full load of Red Dot.
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Mr.Dremel is, or can be, your friend your friend.
Put a radius on the square edges that are creating the pinch point.
Just remember the first rule of gunsmithing: Always destroy the cheapest part first.
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The last thing MS would want to do is publish a list of "this update is to fix the following problem". That would give certain individuals a place to start exploiting your computer.
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You say this gun is "new to you". Does that mean that 1911s are new to you or just this one?
I have to ask, but did it run without failure before you took it apart for cleaning?
I'm just looking for a clue because I can't tell much from the pics.
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+1 on removing the buffer and lubrication.
Since it got progressively worse the buffer could be rubbing the slide and that would get worse with each shot.
Completely disassemble, clean, inspect all wear surfaces, lubricate and reassemble.
Then like we used to say in the nuclear business, "Try it now."
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Exactly what do you mean by "not cycling"?
Not cycling covers a lot of ground. Exactly what does it do or not do? and do you still have any of the ammo that WAS working?
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I
I have not shot a match since(October), due to foot surgery, the move from Glock to 1911 hasn't been easy, I wasn't use to a thumb safety, or a grip safety, I have learned to grip the weapon so the grip safety is GTG, but the thumb safety is whole other issue, during transitions safety on, but during reloads I was and still am not used to putting the safety on, I also realize my trigger finger was the real issue, I discovered I may need to swap grips(MagPul) and put a extended drilled and tapped mag release so I don't have to reposition my hand to release the mag, now that I can stand without crutches dry fire has begun, working on reloads.
If your finger isn't in the trigger guard there should be no reason to put the safety on during a reload. If you have to rely on the safety to prevent an AD during reloading then you either have your finger in the trigger guard and on the trigger or the sear is releasing the hammer when you insert the mag. Both these conditions are problems, the former is yours and the latter is mechanical. Unfortunately you own both if the hammer falls.
I've never put the safety on during a reload and I ride the safety from start to finish. The only exceptions would be if I have a long run between targets or if I start to fall(mostly shooting 3gun on natural terrain) I have engaged the safety. Other than that the safety is off from the time the muzzle is pointed downrange until I'm done with the pistol on that stage.
But do whatever makes YOU comfortable.
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I had a moment of weakness and bought a STI Edge. See what all the fuss is about. If I like it I might have to change my name.
When Glocks came out I finger banged one and thought, "Who in their right mind would want one of these." Found out about Glock Matches in '95 and bought a used one for that purpose. Won 4 more and bought the kids a couple. I wouldn't sell the first one for what I paid for it and it has been shot a LOT.
Gaston Glock ain't no John Browning but he did have a good idea.
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If all else fails I would try a faster powder.
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Why does a "Glocklover" need to know that? LOL
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"He who hesitates is lost"
Sound like my wife. You should have heard her when I was on the phone and the guy told me he got rid of the rest...
"Look before you leap."
So much advice.
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I torched a round off during a reload at my first USPSA match, instant DQ, unloaded and showed cleared, took my gear off and I stayed ran the iPad, I was beyond embarrassed, but I owned it.
But after that, you knew exactly what you needed to work on.
Bad experience is always the best teacher. Have you ever had another AD while reloading?
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By the way, why do some people call it "the 45 Long Colt" which does not exist. It has always been the "45 Colt" just as it is stamped on the brass.
I have three chambered in 45 Colt.
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Interesting lesson.
Sometimes there is not a good way to avoid reloading while moving toward your weak hand side, or moving backwards and toward your weak hand side.
One way to stay good on the 180 is to cock your wrist back toward your strong hand side while doing the reload. You can move the gun through about 120 degrees depending on how you hold your wrist.
If you are moving parallel to the 180 then the r.o. probably has a clear view of your hand and all is good.
If you are moving both backwards and to your weak side, the r.o. should be standing on your strong hand side and a little bit up range. As you begin the reload, your body soon blocks the r.o.'s view of your gun and wrist and forearm. Odds are that any spectators will also be positioned where they lose sight of everything except your back and the back of your arm during the reload. If the r.o. believes you held your wrist straight then it looks very spooky in real time, as if you had broken the 180 by 30 degrees or something, spectators in a similar viewing position will also see something in real time that they think was very spooky.
I think my lesson is that next time I either show the r.o. what I plan to do in advance or take a little bit more time and change my orientation so that he has a clear view of my hand during the reload.
Actually, all of the movements you've mentioned are a normal part of our skill set (and, of course, are practiced regularly). Qualified ROs should know this, and we shouldn't have to tell them what direction we're going to go or orient ourselves in some particular way in order for them to see what we're doing. If the RO can't see what you did, they can't/shouldn't call a fault, and if they do it's clearly an arbitration situation. At any rate, if we're doing it right there shouldn't be a call on us, because we're doing it safely and aren't "right at the 180" while moving backwards, or toward the weak side, or whatever. Just sayin'...
The vast majority of stages that have movement parallel to the 180 are set up for right handed shooters. Lefties learn to deal with it quickly. When I set up stages I always set them up for me and I am left handed.
If others didn't like it, they always had the option of coming out and setting up stages the way they wanted. Help was always appreciated.
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I'm sure they take your info and amount and notify the irs! :-)
.........just as they are supposed to do.
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The Wild Bunch
After Pike(William Holden) and the boys blasted the Mexican general who had just cut the throat of their friend Angel and they are all facing the whole Mexican army. Nobody is moving, then Ben Johnson says:
"We got these sonsabitches buffaloed." so then Pike shoots the German general and the final fight was on.
You can't help but like a movie that burned through 30,000 rounds of 30.06 in a water cooled Browning just making the last fight scene.
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Like most things mandated by the gov'ment it appears to be working out well..........
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My brother has made a lot of 45 Colt shotshells using 45 Colt brass. He used them for shoot field rats while bush hogging. If you are interested in that I can get the info for you.
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What you don't want is a lead/zinc alloy. I understand that it won't make good bullets.
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All most everyone uses the 21-22" barrels, except for a lot of folks that use the 24-26" barrels, and the folks that use the 28" barrel. I'd say almost everyone is within 7" of each other.
LOL funny!!
Just get a gun and shoot it.
As long as it doesn't blast the slugs into the county to your left or right you are good to go.
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No pictures, but I connected my shotgun press to my house electrical ground and it does keep the powder from climbing up the inside wall of the shell. My bench is in the basement with an automatic de-humidifier. It doesn't run much in the winter and static is still an issue here.
Maybe I should consider a grounding grid network for everything on the bench.
Concrete floor, steel frame table with a wood top.
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It sounds like you made enough practice/local match ammo to last a month or so.
Slide stops
in 1911-style Pistols
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If all your slide stops are for 1911s they will all function the same as for stopping the slide from running off the end of your gun. Pin diameter should be .200" since the hole is .200". In my opinion the pin should fit the hole and not wallow around in it.
Trial and error will determine which ones will will lock the slide back after the last round.