MemphisMechanic
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Posts posted by MemphisMechanic
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I tried a F.O. front for 6 months. Noticeable increase in accuracy with it removed. Stuck it back on, and immediately had the same problem. I tend to wind up with a target-focus, and getting by with using the red dot in the fuzzy foreground to figure out where the post might be.
With steel sights, you need a front sight if you want hits. And past 7 yards, a crisp front sight beats any other type of focus. At least for myself.
IMO, if you are young enough to clearly focus on the front sight, plain black is the way to go.
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Thats the combo that I use on my G19. POA/POI
Thanks!
I had seen the Dawson/Heinie set-up, but hadn't run across the Warren FO front used with anything except the Warren/Sevigny rear.
Shot my 34 for 6 months with a heine slant-pro rear and a Sevigny FO front. Spot-on sight setup.
Glad to see my pics from GlockTalk are still wandering over here.
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I have no problem slamming the slide shut on my beat-to-hell Glock. Do it anytime the gun's locked-open at ULASC while pocketing the mag with the other hand.
I won't do it to a 1911, though. Especially since every 1911 I've ever shot has been borrowed.
Wanna watch someone cringe? Look over a high-end 1911 at the local gun shop. Drop the slide with the lever, unretarded. Seen that twice, hard to keep from laughing at the look on the salesguy's face.
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It's super easy on a 550, and I'm sure someone will post how to quickly stop cases from entering the shellplate on a 650.
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Here's what I do on a 650: (Say you're at 3.0 grains, and want to be at 3.2 grains...)
1. Empty the cases from the shellplate, turn off the casefeeder, and empty the casefeed tube.
2. Turn the knob up slightly to increase the charge.
3. Stick a piece of used brass in the shellplate at the priming station.
4. Run the shellplate up to charge it.
5. Drop the handle. Pick the case out of the shellplate as it indexes, move it back to the priming station, and fill it again.
6. Pull the case, and dump those two charges back into the hopper.
7. Repeat again. I want the press to dump at least 4 charges after an adjustment.
8. Repeat the previous steps, but dump the powder onto the scale, instead of back up into the hopper.
Weigh 4 charges, and divide the total by 4. I like to see 12.9 if I'm shooting for 3.2 grains, so it's a hair over the actual weight. That way your rounds that are a tenth lighter, are closer to your desired charge weight.
I'll then randomly weigh a charge after about 20 rounds, and after 100, and whenever I feel like it after that. Anything between 3.1 and 3.3 won't cause me concern. One charge on a digital scale isn't a terribly precise measure.
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What I'm trying to say is that caring about what's happening with the sights leads to mental tension, which involves the conscious mind and blocks the subconscious mind from coming to the fore and controlling the shooting, ever so much more swiftly and fluidly than could the conscious mind. So watch the sights, become interested in what's happening out there, but don't care what's happening out there.
Dammit. Once again you've eloquently described the concept that was in my head. However, unlike yourself I have serious problems getting them through to the keyboard, and then stuffing them through that ethernet cable so that you guys can follow along.
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While at a IDPA match in Hot Springs while sitting in a car my magazine fell out onto the front seat. Cost me 6 seconds. I missed first place (in Markman's division) by three seconds. Only time it has happened.
I remember that stage. A buddy of mine pulled off a .09 split on the close pop-up target. His splits are always absurd, but that was basically a bump-fire. Too bad he pulled a 3.
I've seen a lot of guys learn the hard way that you can't push down on a Glock 34 during a table-start. I love being a lefty sometimes.
Ever seen anyone blow the grip, and rip the gun from the holster with a released magazine? Saw that from a fellow lefty at an indoor match. The mag slid about 40 feet across the concrete floor to the backstop. No way he was chasing that one down to avoid the procedural.
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The key is to be interested in what's happening out there with the sights, but not to care what's happening with the sights, if that makes sense.
A shot call is an observation made while shooting, and not a technique you can perform?
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Our local shooters switch to Solo1000 or Unique if shooting indoors.
I wanted to link a buddy to some data I'd seen on 147 molys, and thought you mind find the chrono data and smoke comparisions in here kinda interesting:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...mp;hl=Solo+1000
(The jackpot is in post #56)
I plan on replicating this load when I burn through my remaining 147 FMJs, with some blackbullets. I've got about a 2 month supply left. By then, you guys who've already bought 'em can tell me if they suck or not.
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124 precision delta FMJ
1.125" OAL
3.8gr titegroup
That got me 133-134 PF on two seperate checks with the chrono. Glock 34. And titegroup is only dirty under lead and moly bullets. Under an FMJ or JHP, it's no dirtier than UMC or WWB.
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100% in a Glock34 with a lightened striker and a 4.5lb spring. 2,500 rounds so far.
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Just be warned that it might be a couple more months before you can manage it again.
Calling a couple of shots is usually followed by TRYING to call. Forcing the shot-call to happen, if you will. And it doesn't happen that way. You need to just relax, and see.
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You shoot matches with guys in your area who all reload, right? And you probably get along really well with at least one of them?
Hanging out in the garage with a couple of local shooters who know what they're doing for an evening, is a HUGE help before you go buying equipment.
I went straight from factory ammo, to loading on a 650. Didn't waste money, or entire evenings loading 100 rounds, with smaller gear. Went straight to what I knew I'd eventually wind up with anyway, and have never regretted it.
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Caveat for the CED 7000: If you are older or hgh-frequency hearing impaired, then you might not be able to hear the beep. Other than that, I really like mine.
H.
Yeah, I've had that issue.
Personally, I'm 29 and careful to wear hearing protection at work when needed, and for every shot I've ever fired. The high beep is louder/easier for me to hear.
We have an older local guy who went plugs-only with an Open gun for about a decade back in the 80s, and we all know to hold the timer RIGHT next to his muffs for the start.
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You should've bought a Glock.
A buddy just bought an XD for carry use, and asked me to come show him the ropes. I CANNOT SHOOT THE DAMN THING. I ran a target out to 25 yards, and every freaking round went high/right juuust a hair. I had a 5"ish group at 2 o'clock, just off the plate. Granted, this was a subcompact. But a Glock 19 doesn't have the same issues for me. 4 groups in the center of the target aren't a problem with my 34, all day long.
I hate XD triggers, and they hate me. I know what I'm doing wrong - I can see (and call) it in the sights as the shot breaks. But I only shoot one every year or so. I figure out how to break the shot with that crisp-but-heavy trigger... and then I have months to forget, and start all over.
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...And finally tonight called Brian and ordered 550B top notch kit(minus scale, still like RCBS.)
This time I do not plan to conquer the pistol world like I did the trap fields. I am here to have fun, get my butt kicked and get back to my shooting roots.
1) I give you less than 12 months before you're contemplating a 650 upgrade.
2) That's what we all said. 6 months from now, you'll have picked up far more speed than you ever thought you would... and... off you go.
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Titegroup is fine if you're shooting outside with moly bullets. Quite common around here.
Our local shooters switch to Solo1000 or Unique if shooting indoors. The slower powder is a bit easier on smoke. But Titegroup is great outdoors, unless you're shooting nearly into the sun (those situations where the light glows through the pasters from behind the targets) ... then the excessively smoky loads can be a disadvantage.
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I have a Pocket Pro II, CED 7000 and CED 8000. They will all do pretty much anything you need. I do like the ability to use the headset with the 8000. If you don't want to disturb your family or you're in a hotel, you can just use the little earphones (sorta like an IPod setup) and nobody will know what's going on. I really like the 7000 for practice...use the rotating clip and just flip it up to see your times. Nothing wrong with the Pocket Pro II...a solid timer that works well.
I've found the low setting for the 7000's beep about perfect at home, or in a hotel.
Occasionally I've wanted it a good bit quieter, and a small piece of tape over the speaker quiets it down so that you can't hear it with the door closed.
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For a major match, it gets chamber checked as well.
Why, just out of curiosity? If it fits in the case cage, how could it possibly not fit into your chamber?
Absolutely no reason other than a second chance to spot a high primer or other cosmetic flaw, by making myself handle each round individually one more time before a big match. And the act of dropping it into and out of a barrel keeps me from getting lazy, and keeps me thorough.
I agree - a case-gauge makes the act of a chamber check totally redundant. But it's a good feeling at "Load & Make ready" after you've paid a match fee, hotel fee, and driven 6 hours the day before.
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I've played with them all quite extensively. The CED 7000 is the best, smallest, and quite affordable. The battery lasts about 3 months of daily use. It's ridiculous.
Buy the 7000, one silicone skin, and the rotating belt clip. The wristband will look tempting for dryfire, but it's too bulky for that, really. The rotating belt clip is great. When RO'ing, I don't hold the timer. Hit the button, leave it on my belt, and stay behind the shooter. Swing it up after 'range is safe!' for a peek at the time. Even better for dryfire or practicing by yourself.
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I prefer Precision Delta bullets to MGs, just because they're cheaper. Sure, they have an exposed lead base... But so did those thousands and thousands of WWB rounds you've sent downrange.
In two different G34s:
1.125"OAL, a 124gr PD FMJ, and 3.8 grains of Titegroup is good for 133PF
1.145" OAL, a 147 PD FMJ, and 3.2 grains of Titegroup is good for 128 PF at 38*, 130 at 75*
147s shoot soooo nicely, there's no reason (aside from cost) to stick with the snappier 115.
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WARNING! 9mm THREAD DRIFT!
147 Precision Delta FMJ
Wolf Primer
totally random brass (mixed ain't a strong enough word)
3.2gr Titegroup
Out of curiosity, I loaded 120 rounds like that on my 650. Only variation was OAL. Loaded forty rounds each at 1.125" ... 1.130" ... and 1.150"
Chrono'd all at the same time, same chrono. There was a negligible difference in velocity. Something like 7-10 FPS comparing the shortest to the longest. If I hadn't averaged so many rounds, I don't think I could even say that there WAS a difference. The velocity spread hid it completely for 10-15 rounds, if you know what I mean.
1.130" feeds well in my Glock 34, is arguably the most accurate, and chrono'd 128PF on a 38 degree day with pretty high humidity. I stuck with that, so I know I'll be golden on hotter/drier days at big matches.
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I'd love to see a divison for compact sized (G19ish weapons in the XD, the M&P, etc) with stock triggers and recoil springs required. Or something along those lines...
A 'STG' division (stock carry gun) would be sweet.
I've been shooting my G19 (only mod is a 3.5 connector) in our weekly indoor matches. TRUST ME. The gun is slower than my 34 with a light spring, trigger job, and bunnyfart loads. There's no comparison.
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I mounted 12 x 12 inch mirrored tiles available at Lowe's or Home Depot above the case feeders on my 650's so that I can simply look up and see what is left in the case feeder hopper. I don't have to stand up from my comfy chair while reloading to see when I need to throw more cases in.
I am SO going to do this.
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I know 3 people who DID think to ask him. They all got the same answer, FWIW.
Sights
13 pound spring
A ton of practice.
That's it. Two of them dryfired the 34 he was shooting at the time. They were different matches, so they might have been different guns. But they both had horrible scchreeee-clank unpolished factory triggers.
G34: improvement mods?
in Glock
Posted
RECOIL SPRING
GRIP TAPE
All else is optional, those should be mandatory.