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trodrig

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Posts posted by trodrig

  1. 650 all the way. I think the biggest advantage of the 650 over the 550 is the auto index and 5 tool head stations instead of 4. This will allow you to run either a powder check or a bullet feeder and still seat the bullet and crimp in separate operations. Get the 650 w/out case feeder now if you have to and then you've got lots of room to upgrade in the future with case feeder and bullet feeder! :)

  2. Industry rumor is that the primer supply will be back to normal by Mid March. Have not heard about Zero or MG. I am not having any problem with powder. Is anybody unable to get powder other than VV which has always been a problem at times?

    Viht powders are the only ones that show pretty reasonable stock over at Powder Valley. Lots of Hodgdon, Alliant, Accurate, and IMR and Ramshot varieties are out of stock. It would be nice for the primer supply to stabilize but what I'd really like to see is some rimfire ammo! :(

  3. For production I'd recommend staying with the same load you're already using. You might be able to get away with dropping it lower since you don't have to worry about making minor in SC but I don't know if it would yield enough benefits to be worth the trouble of changing your loading setup.

  4. It's a good idea to run new brass through a sizer die just like you would fired brass. Reasons are 1) it trues up any dents in the case mouth that may have occurred during shipping and 2) it makes sure there is a flash hole in the primer pocket. I've never encountered the latter especially in new Starline brass but I've been told that not having a flash hole is not outside the realm of possibilities.

  5. Thanks for all the info folks! Just wanted to make sure that overcamming just a little bit is not going to damage the shell plate or something else on the press. I've got it set now to just set the shoulder back enough to fit between the steps on the JP gauge. From trial and error I've found that this is right where the brass will easily chamber and extract from my rifle. Even if the brass is flush with the top step, it is hard to extract. It's gotta be between the steps in order to be easy in and out. Looks like I'm set to go! :) Thanks again!

  6. Hey folks! I've got a quick question on setting up the sizer die on a Super 1050 for 223. I just received the press set up from Dillon. However, with the adjustments to the sizer as it came from the factory, most sized cases would just barely pass the JP case gauge. Then, when I tried to chamber them in my rifle, they were very tough to chamber and even more tough to extract. Turning the sizer die down another 1/8 - 1/4 turn helped them to fit the gauge better and chamber and extract very smoothly in the rifle. My question is, is it ok to have the sizer die turned down 1/4 turn past contacting the shell plate? Does doing so risk warping the shell plate or causing some other malady?

    Thanks for the help!

  7. For me personally, it's more of an issue of the time of year as opposed to the location. With there not being any school holidays around that time of year, we just couldn't make it. I totally understand that Florida in the end of August (original match date) wouldn't be too pleasant from a weather perspective so I see why the date changed. However, that time of year is hard for folks with kids in school that want to shoot the match to attend.

  8. Wow! We're neighbors! I'm also from Dripping! Welcome to the site!

    Hodgdon's website has a real nice online reloading data center. I'd recommend checking that out for data. For learning the reloading process, you'd be better served by getting a good manual. The Lyman 48th edition book is pretty good. You'll want to get a chronograph as well to enable you to work up loads safely. The velocities listed in the manuals are not going to be exact for your gun. Use the listed starting load in the book and work up from there until you achieve the desired power factor, watching for pressure signs along the way. What weight bullets are you using for 9 and 45?

    Have you attended any of the USPSA/Steel Challenge/3-gun matches in the area yet? There's typically 2-3 matches within an hour to hour and a half of us every weekend of the month.

    Take care and let me know if I can help you! :cheers:

  9. I ran my prototype extra long +2 this past weekend at the Fallen Brethren match and it worked great! I would've been at a HUGE disadvantage with the standard 8 round tube on the VersaMax tactical model. The extra room provided by the slightly longer new model is great! With the original +2 cap, seating the 10th shell was a bit too tight for me.

    Thanks again!

  10. A good extractor should hold the tune for many thousand rounds. I personally like the Aftec and have one in both of my open guns. Lots of folks don't think the Aftec is required if the standard extractor is tuned correctly. I tuned my single stack 45 standard extractor and never had a problem over many rounds.

  11. The run out I'm talking about is concentricity. I'm seeing about 5 thousandths or more of run out. I was hoping to hold closer to 2 or 3 thousandths. I know variations in neck thickness can cause bullet run out problems. I believe the brass I'm using is not that great so that could be part of the problem. Some rounds will be around 3 thousandths with others 5+. So, a good amount of variation. I'm thinking I'll get a batch of Norma brass which is supposed to be better quality and see if my results are any better there. I'll also check on how well the seating stem matches the ogive of the bullets I'm using.

  12. Double checked the magazine last night and there's tons of room with the bullets seated to 20 thousandths off the rifling. Loaded up 4 different powder charges last night and we'll see how they shoot this weekend. I'm getting a surprising amount of run out (0.005"+). Not sure why. I'm using the Redding comp seater die, everything appears to be adjusted correctly. Anyone have any suggestions on what to look at for bullet run out?

  13. If you are crimping, then yes, you need the case mouth to the cannelure. Otherwise, you are free to vary the length as you see fit.

    Remember, though, that the data was developed with the OAL listed. If you go shorter, it will increase pressure.

    Also, while 0.020" off the rifling is the minimum, you should also be certain the rounds will go all the way in the magazine before settling on that length. Sometimes the magazine box isn't long enough to allow long seating.

    Guy

    The fact that the OAL in the book leaves the cannelure well outside the mouth is what concerned me a bit. The first thing I thought of is that if I need to seat to the cannelure I'm going to have to start very low on the powder charge because pressure is going to be increased. But, when the OAL gauge and bullet comparator gave me about the same length to be 20 thousandths off the rifling, I figured I was good to go with that. Again, if not crimping, cannelure should be irrelevant.

    Good point about making sure the loaded rounds fit the magazine at that length. Hopefully the manufacturer wouldn't have put 3.345" in the manual if that wouldn't fit one of the most popular bolt actions around (Rem 700) but, it is something to verify! :)

    Thanks!

  14. Hi all! I'm working up a new hunting load for my bolt action rifle in .280 Remington. I'm using the 139gr Hornady SST bullet. My question is on the overall length and bullet seating depth. This bullet has a cannelure, however, I do not plan on crimping the bullet. The overall length specified for this bullet in the Hornady manual (3.345") puts the cannelure well outside the mouth of the case. Using the Hornady Bullet Comparator and Overall Length Gauge I obtain roughly the same overall length specified in the manual to achieve 0.020" of free bore. I have always been under the impression that bullets with cannelures should be loaded with the mouth of the brass at about the middle of the cannelure. However, that is going to put my OAL at less than 3.330" which is way shorter than the both the book listing for this bullet and what I measure for 20 thousandths of free bore. Where do you all think I should start with my seating depth? Disregard the cannelure?

    Thanks in advance for assistance! :)

  15. Here's a link to a Vihtavuori loading manual:

    Manual

    There is some data in there under the '38 super lapua' table for 3n38. I've found it to be a great powder in 38 super and super comp. It's almost as nice shooting as N105 but it's not quite a full in the case and it's available in 4# jugs! If you're using 115gr bullets, I think starting at 9gr of powder and working up from there is a good place to start. As far as 'what do I look for to know I got it right', well, you need to look at the screen of your chronograph and work up to your target power factor. :) Seriously, you can't load major power factor ammo without the aid of a chrono.

    Regarding using 3n38 for 9mm and 40, I really don't think this is the powder you want for those cartridges. It is way too slow burning. I'm assuming here that for 9mm you're talking about a production gun and not a 9mm major open gun.

  16. The Lyman manual is a great resource! You can also check the Hodgdon web site. They've got tons of data in their online database tool. Handy look up features as well.

    If he's loading 1-1/8 oz of shot, that 22gr of WST is hot indeed. Depending on the wad, hull, primer combination, he may be well above book recommendations according to the Hodgdon site. Keep in mind that shotshell recipes should be followed exactly with no substitution of components. There can be very different pressure results just by changing any one of the components.

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